Advice needed for ALH build

I'm looking to start assembling the parts ASAP for an ALH build. The car currently has 220k with 502 injectors, some mild tune, and a bunch of other small mods that I forgot about. The engine has a tick despite new lifters, I plan to visit a guru to track down problem but will most likely buy a new head.

End goal is a quick but reliable engine. I will half-heartedly try to destroy it, most of the time. I plan to build the engine for a 2260VK, but I might stop just short of buying the kit if I'm happy with a maxed-out VNT15 and a new motorcycle. Either way I'll have a 'new' engine to stomp on for another decade.
Build, roughly in order of purchase.

1. New Head, Ported.
2. Injectors, anything better than PP764s?
3. PD130 Mani w/ simple Meth and N20 hookups for fun. Will prob run water most of time.
4. 4-Bar MAP, $5 more.
5. Colt Stage 3, any other recommendations?
6. ARP Head Studs
7. 11mm IP
8. FMIC, South Bend Clutch, and Tune.
9. Should I bother with valve/spring upgrades 'while I'm in there?'
10. Rods, Rosten or Franko6?
11. Pistons, what is a logical and reasonably priced upgrade?
12. Any ideas on how I can get the bottom end to feel like a teenager again? Would boring to 2.0L or whatever do the trick? Sounds expensive.
13. Is a girdle (Eurospec) needed?

I'd like a rebuilt engine with "0 miles" so I can beat on it guilt-free for another 200k. I never got the chance to read deep into engine boring, but I see a ton of people talking about ASV pistons and running 2.0L. Is that easy to do?
My synchros are old, will this transmission handle the above or should I plan to upgrade to... something?

injectors for gtb2260vk at least bosio race520 ore hflo-x .275
pump 11mm auto with 12mm head.
clucht sachs SRE
ebay H-beam rods with arp rod bolts.
3 hole head gasket.
arp head studs.
pd-150 pistons.

a good cam like nps ore dbilas

Anyone else?

I'll have to look into Hflo, never hear of them.
12mm head sounds good, I have to read up since the last I saw was about bad Chinese heads.
Thanks on the 3-hold gasket, forgot about that.

Does anyone know of anything interesting I can buy in China? A turbo-less diesel engine around here is $300. I'm not sure if it is the same. but it looks it. ALH without turbo. Might not be a bad idea to ship one back.

I'm in the same boat but im building an engine for a gtb2566vk and nitrous.Thanks for starting this thread!

I'm in, as i'm planning a similar build.

In, planning to go over 200 whp

I'm running
ARL pistons (standard size, shipping mixup that left me pissed at rockauto, bores cleaned up fine after 140k miles and a hydrolocking somewhere in there),
chinese ebay rods (they did need to be honed to be actually round in the big end)
nicktane ARP studs on the head, some home grown porting and turbo shenanigans currently limited by the exhaust side of the 1749v
12.9 SHCS for the mains
10mm pump, 12mm head on the shelf

and probably making 130hp or so, lol
Some time soon I may find time to fit in the larger turbo. Just gotta make some pins and a cap for the wastegate pipe...

no tune or injectors?

mk1-83 said:

injectors for gtb2260vk at least bosio race520 ore hflo-x .275
pump 11mm auto with 12mm head.
clucht sachs SRE
ebay H-beam rods with arp rod bolts.
3 hole head gasket.
arp head studs.
pd-150 pistons.

a good cam like nps ore dbilas

Click to expand...

This is just backwards...

Class 12.9 bolts will hold fine for 200 whp and it'll be a challenge to make sure those rods are machined properly and be solid for these operating parameters.

Thicker head gasket isn't the right way to lower the CR. Only piston bowl modification or pistons with a larger bowels.

Did you guys miss the part about N20?

I would thing the new Roysten Rods built by Pauter Machine would be wanted to run N20. Cost would be $12-1500 per set. Would also think the Girdle would be a good idea for a bottom end that was going to take pounding from N20 shots.

Kingcodez said:

End goal is a quick but reliable engine.
Build, roughly in order of purchase.

1. PD130 Mani w/ simple Meth and N20 hookups for fun. Will prob run water most of time.
2. Any ideas on how I can get the bottom end to feel like a teenager again? Would boring to 2.0L or whatever do the trick? Sounds expensive.
3. Is a girdle (Eurospec) needed?

My synchros are old, will this transmission handle the above or should I plan to upgrade to... something?

Click to expand...

SkyRyder55 said:

no tune or injectors?

Click to expand...

oh right,
chinese cable and bumbling my way through tuning it
and some pp764s I got for $150, converted to single stage, and the pintle lift increased by .004" or so