Race pipe with anti shutter

Nice work. Are you press fitting the flange?

Cha2ga said:

Nice work. Are you press fitting the flange?

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Everything will be welded but all the fit tolerances will be no more then .005". I am going to try and use the electron beam welder to weld these first as it is a far more superior weld then TIG welding. Then again the machine cost as much as your average house $250,000. If the beam welder doesn't work out then they will be TIG welded

One suggestion, plenty of butterfly valves are cut from the bar at an angle, to get an oval shape which seals with the bore much more solidly than a circle within a circular hole which will always have a clearance.

[486] said:

One suggestion, plenty of butterfly valves are cut from the bar at an angle, to get an oval shape which seals with the bore much more solidly than a circle within a circular hole which will always have a clearance.

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I completely agree and they will be oval when i stamp them.

Spent some more time tonight after work getting parts and fixtures made.


Takes 6 feet of 3" wide 3/4 thick aluminum to make 20 of the bearing and seal holders.



All 20 blanks cut and sanded ready to be machined.



Got all the programming done and setup on the machine. I still need to build a fixture to hold the part to allow me to machine the outside then cut the center. Once there in production these will be laser cut or water jet cut.



Tomorrows work

Impressive

I know you may not have access to one but these parts are begging to be done
on a 4-axis lathe.

Cha2ga said:

Impressive

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Thanks

flee said:

I know you may not have access to one but these parts are begging to be done
on a 4-axis lathe.

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I know i wish i had one but i only have access to 3-axis cnc

Anyways heres where im at right now. The fixture to machine the outside is done and works well. Once the outside is done I then bring it over to the lathe and hog the center out with a drill then finish it to final dimension with a boring bar. Once its finished fit is super smooth but tight at the same time.

Im hoping to have all the outsides and centers done today, then all that will be left is drill the shaft hole and counter bore for the bearings and seals.

This is awesome! Great job, man!

nikolay_ss said:

This is awesome! Great job, man!

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Thanks

I ended up not getting to spend a ton of time at work today but i ended up getting five out of the 20 done. I really need to setup the parts in the 3 axis that has a high speed spindle and coolant instead of the 2 axis im using thats more of a fancy Bridgeport.

Is z just manual?

flee said:

Is z just manual?

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Yes Z is manual and x,y is CNC. I am writing the G-code now for our 3 Axis. Its a tad old so its just easier to write the code instead of trying to load a DXF onto it as it only has a floppy drive and its offline software is built for MsDos.

I've used something similar.
It's slow but it works!

Here is one with everything welded on besides the bung for the actuator.



The welds are done in our electron beam welder so no filler is needed.

I am considering to build these another way that would require less machining and less welding but will be a 2 piece design with only one weld.

Ill upload photos of that tonight.

So this is the newer design ive been contemplating over the current design. There would be a lot less machining and less welding so total cost would be cheaper.

I hope you are planning to make a spot for map sensor. I think this is an easy task comparing to anti shutter.

Just checking in.

Cha2ga said:

Just checking in.

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At the moment im waiting for the new material i ordered to make them from that should be in tomorrow. I decided to go with the newer design as its much easier and cheaper to machine. I was having problems trying to machine the bearing holder without having a CNC lathe with live tooling. I couldn't get the hole and counter bores for the shaft and bearings to be concentric to each other.

I have a way to drill the through holes and do the counter bore with the new design that will keep them concentric to each other. It will also let me keep the actuator mounts square to the shaft.

I will start machining them Friday night, ill take photos.

Wish I would have had one of these when my Tdi ran away!! Its in a jeep though. Would have saved me bent shift forks in the trans when I tried to stall it... All said its a rebuild now...

However, with the PD 150 pipe I have made, I used the factory flange (junk metal) along with a section of pipe that allows me to mount the MAP sensor and a boost port. If you could add the provision to drill and weld one on later that would be great. Or even machine a flat spot on the outer diameter in anticipation for one. It will need enough length to clear the valve sweep area for the sensor.

Also because mine is in a jeep I had considered a unit like this to be a great anti theft device. If one controlled it in such a way with an over ride switch aka "kill switch" to keep it closed when in secure mode, it would keep the motor from firing no matter how much you crank it. I figure someone could benefit from that idea.

For the map sensor in all reality i can sell you one that threads into a 1/8 npt. Map sensors are very simple sensor. Its 5v in ground and signal, the signal is a linear curve. All i need to find out is if the sensors our cars use is 0v=0bar or 5v=3bar if we are talking about a 3 bar sensor.

So i ordered some new tools to make building these easier and faster. I am going with the second design as the first one would cost too much money and time to build. Here is the new tools i ordered.

Spin indexer


2" diameter 3" long expanding collet

That's exactly the tools I would have bought

The mk4 MAP sensor also does IAT. so it needs to be in the flow of air versus just getting a pressure reading.

All Stock said:

The mk4 MAP sensor also does IAT. so it needs to be in the flow of air versus just getting a pressure reading.

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I noticed that you can still work around it two ways. ILl post more once im home.

Ive never been a fan of having two sensors built into one unit for the fact if one fails you have to replace the the unit. Ill need to talk to the guys over at malone tune and see if you could run a GM IAT and a separate map sensor or leave the stock map sensor in in just for the IAT but tie in a separate map sensor. Not saying its the cheapest way but might be better then using the factory one.

mine was running the stock MAP for IAT and a GM unit for MAP, little hackery of the harness, little change to the tune, and it was functional, $20 for a 4 bar? yesplz

your target demographic wants plug and play, though
they're the type to spend a hundred bucks on a bosch MAP/IAT sensor for just that reason

Was wondering on your progress.

How is this build going?
Any on a car yet?

No we got hit with layoffs at my job and i was one of them. I have a new job now that i start on the 5th once money is back where it needs to be ill be getting these parts back on track. Once i have then finalized production will be easy as i found a company who is willing to machine all the parts for me at a reasonable price. All i will have to do is weld then and assemble.

Good to hear that you're back to work!