Max Brakes

I'm need to replace the brakes on my 2005 Jetta Wagon GLS TDI (BEW) and am looking at these:
http://maxbrakes.com/c-928988-brake-kits-oe-replacement-kits.html

Has anyone used Max Brakes before? Pros? Cons?

Based on those prices for everything. Its cheaper stuff. For a budget ive been told good stuff is fremax. The main vendor that I used for that kinda stuff and that our jetta was redone with you would be looking at around $170 shipped. Fremax rotors front and rear and bosch pads.

No. but judging by the price might be Chinese (not OEM quality)and will not last. It sends up a red flag when they don't tell you the brand of the disks and rotors.
These are what you want. They are actually OEM quantity were the Max Brakes probably are not.

http://www.idparts.com/front-brake-set-a4-p-999.html

If you want less dust, get the ceramic Pads.
The performance sets are a wast of money unless you actually race your car and are extremely hard on you brakes. Drilled and slotted rotors don't really improve braking performance on a daily driver car either.

I don't get why people harp on Chinese rotors and such. I've had exceptional service from some VERY cheap brake parts (the wear items, never calipers, hardware, or anything else). I'm just talking rotors and pads. Sure, they don't last 50K like maybe OEM stuff should (lol who are we kidding, the OEM rear brakes are made of butter) but for $50 to do the front or $40 for the rear, I have no problem changing it out more frequently.

I currently run PowerStop stuff on dad's car in the front, and some random crap in the back. Both have held up really really well. I put random stuff in the back of these cars because of the tendency for rear calipers to seize up, so I don't care if the pads or rotors get burned up in the rear.

I run Wilwood on one car, PowerStop on another, Stillen/Hawk on another, Brembo/Pagid on another, and the others just get whatever is cheap. And really, I haven't had anything to complain about yet. Anyone that claims the chinese stuff is crap and it warps, I call BS. It warps because your caliper is binding, not because the rotors are somehow bad. Service your brakes regularly (clean and lube, make sure the hardware is all present and in good shape), bleed your brakes regularly (no effect on pads/rotors, just keeps your lines from rusting from the inside out), and use cheap pads/rotors

I really wish more people took the time to understand how a floating caliper works and why brakes warp.

Every car I bought has come to me with completely black brake fluid; I think no one ever actually flushes the fluid and bleeds the brakes regularly.

Oh and if anyone starts with the safety nonsense, tell me how a cheap rotor or pad can fail catastrophically?

I've seen every failure there is to see, and there is no way in which a pad or a rotor can fail and leave you without brakes. Yes, I've seen pad friction material shear right off the backing plate (it was a dealership part according to the owner). Pedal went about 1/2 inch lower than normal and made a lot of noise while stopping. That's it. Car still stopped fine, just sounded bad. Oh, and left a bunch of rust dust on the rear bumper and on that wheel over the next week of driving.

I just bought a set for the wife's wagon, I got the better pads, figured why not. Cost me $130 Canadian shipped to my door for front and rear rotors with pads. The rotors look very good quality, very well machined. So far, only installed the rears and they work very well.

Fronts have to wait as I bought 288mm rotors and haven't had time to install the 1.8T knuckles yet.

Agree with above, it has nothing to do with the chinese but what the maker tells the chinese to make. Things have come a long way in the last 10 years. I agree, some of the first makers had crap rotors made but now, unless you drag or road race, pretty hard to find a bad rotor for a daily driver. The front rotors in this kit look very thick compared to other brands I've seen.

Also agreed on OE pads. GM trucks and SUV's will hit 100K on the pads that they come for the factory with, after they are gone, you'll be lucky to get 50K out of any pad, including dealer pads. My 98 Jimmy hit 101k for the fronts, towing etc, then after that, 30k was the longest I could get, lol.

Correct, slots and cross drills do little for braking but they look cool, which is what I am going for and they do help a little in wet conditions.

I have Nakamoto's on my Wagon, lifetime warranty against cracking or warping.