Starts great, no power

New to this forum, veteran on other VW forums. Mother-in-law recently passed and her '02 Beetle TDI was sitting in the garage for a while. Family would charge the battery and bring it out into the driveway to idle or take it on short jaunts around town once in a while. Decided that I would "clean things up" and drive it to work (25 min one way highway) once in a while to keep things moving. Charged battery, changed BLACK air filter, changed oil, fresh fuel with a can of "sea foam" and a basic once over. Starts great but the check engine light comes on shortly after starting. Auto Parts Place put the computer on it and it shows "cylinder 3 injector circuit faulty". (Can't remember if they said #3 or #4, but 4 doesn't make much sense.) I can fix this, after all, I'm an electronics tech! Pulled the engine cover off and.... no wires to be found. (except one on the #3 injector.) Searched this forum and learned about changing nozzles. Easy. Didn't change them yet, but I did pull them apart and clean and check and everything went back in no problems. Everything looks great, no obvious wear.
Everything is back together and the check engine light is still on and there is still no power when you step on the pedal. Now I don't expect this thing to drop me back in the seat like my "slightly" modified '74 Beetle, but there should be something. When it finally gets up to speed, you can feel the power coming and going when driving on a flat at a steady pace.
I'm a bit new to these diesel jobbers but with a little help I should be able to figure this thing out. Also has a problem shifting, (automatic) but I think that is unrelated and will save that for a later discussion.
Smokes only slightly on startup, clean after a minute. No foul odors, idles smooth.

Help?
Being slightly experienced with these forum things, I try and give as much info as possible but I'm sure there will be some questions.

when was the last time the fuel filter was changed?

I wonder if that scan can be trusted, just wondering if it wasn't a glow plug code?
The most common causes of lower power on these are bad MAF, clogged intake, VNT actuator not working which could be frozen inside, bad actuator or a vacuum leak. As mentioned the fuel filter is possible too.

Fuel filter hasn't been changed, didn't think of that for some reason. I did check the glow plugs when I had it apart, all read 0 ohms. Didn't think much about them because it starts so easy even when cold.

Now I do work for a government contractor and we use more acronyms than I have ever seen when I was in the military, but I need a little help with the ones you posted Metal Man. I did check the intake, where I could, that's what prompted the air filter change and subsequently the rest of the basic once over. I guess I need to pull more hoses and check for tight connections.
Metal Man, just noticed that you are practically right around the corner. I'm in southern NY just north of Mansfield PA.

Keep the suggestions coming!

Don't use Seafoam (use Diesel Kleen or such- something that's targeted for diesels and helps with gelling issues).

Change the fuel filter! And when you do this do a Diesel Purge (look it up- there's a nice video out on the Internet).

Check snowscreen.

Report back when this is done.

Ok, so I have used Diesel Kleen before in other vehicles and I did put some in last winter just to keep things stable over the winter. Will change the filter, understandable. Found a couple of videos on purge, not sure what else this will do for me except clean the pump. I already cleaned and inspected the injectors and fuel lines from the pump to the injectors. I will look for a local supplier for some DP.

What is the "snowscreen"?

It is a screen at the very front of the air intake snorkel just behind the left HL(head light).
Some like to eliminate it all together and go with a foam backed air filter, the one with the A suffix which is not standard on the ALH but will fit. The sending unit inside the fuel tank could also cause issues if the check valve gets clogged or gelled fuel.

LightningBug said:

Ok, so I have used Diesel Kleen before in other vehicles and I did put some in last winter just to keep things stable over the winter. Will change the filter, understandable. Found a couple of videos on purge, not sure what else this will do for me except clean the pump. I already cleaned and inspected the injectors and fuel lines from the pump to the injectors. I will look for a local supplier for some DP.

What is the "snowscreen"?

Click to expand...

How did you "clean" the injectors?

Would just north of Mansfield PA be in the Corning/ Elmira Area? Bad MAF as Metalman says or clogged intake/egr is a common problem. I have a VCDS if your interested.

That auto shifting promblem could lead to quite a discussion. Search 01M on the forums here.

maxmoo, followed instructions on here to replace the nozzles. Pulled injectors, fuel lines from pump assembly. Removed nozzles and cleaned, verified no major wear or damage, re-assembled and torqued. Replaced seals and torqued hold-downs. Re-installed fuel lines and bled, started car.

Tdijarhead sent you a PM. Yep, Elmira area. May need that VCDS if I get two minutes.

LightningBug said:

maxmoo, followed instructions on here to replace the nozzles. Pulled injectors, fuel lines from pump assembly. Removed nozzles and cleaned, verified no major wear or damage, re-assembled and torqued. Replaced seals and torqued hold-downs. Re-installed fuel lines and bled, started car.

Tdijarhead sent you a PM. Yep, Elmira area. May need that VCDS if I get two minutes.

Click to expand...

how did you clean the nozzles?

I soaked the nozzles in fresh diesel and then scrubbed with a toothbrush. I then sprayed with carb cleaner to ensure orifices were open then a short soak back in the diesel.

I replaced the fuel filter yesterday. Did you know that you have to fill the filter with fuel before hooking everything back up? Yea, I didn't either. That was fun. Got everything back together and ran it to work today. Things seem to be getting better, one step at a time.

It seems to not like to go from a stop. No power there. If you can wait for it to catch up, it will run like a raped ape. You do have to anticipate the hills a little sooner than I like. @ 65 mph I step on the throttle, you can feel the pull and then it seems like a governor kicks in and the power goes away. Let off the throttle and give it again and it will do the same thing. You can do this up to 80 mph. If you give full throttle and make it down-shift, the rpms will increase but there is no power to accelerate. Baffling.

On a lighter note, driving today I noticed a low pitched whistle. Not like a bad seal in the window or a high pitched noise like a vacuum leak. This was an odd medium pitched whistle that would go away below 30 mph. It would change with speed, not rpm. Looking around I finally noticed that the father-in-law had put those darn "deer whistles" on the hood of the car right in front of the A pillars! Removed them and fixed that problem!

Does seem to shift better now.

Check your turbo actuator for sticking. Also check all the turbo boost hose connections for tightness and sealing.

You need to get a VCDS on it and get a real code. If the #3 injector has a faulty circuit then the ECU won't activate the turbo. Basically you will have permanent limp mode. I don't know of anything you can do to fix the wiring.

Well, I finally got a few minutes to go out and play with this again. I brought my ohm meter home and checked the #3 injector sensor, 90 ohms. Started pulling off big hoses to inspect the turbo and found what I believe is the waste gate actuator arm broken. This was damaged before because there was epoxy on the two parts where someone had tried to fix it. Anyone have any idea what exactly this thing is called and where I can get a new one? I REALLY need to get a book on this thing!

Before dumping a bunch of money into the motor of the car, you may want to look into the auto trans. They are very expensive to replace. So expensive and troublesome that many folks have ripped out the auto and put a 5 speed manual in its place.

Fill a new filter with diesel purge and install it. This will help clean the pump and injectors.

Thanks guys, but that didn't answer my last question. The auto trans works fine and I have recently cleaned the injectors. My issue is finding a replacement waste gate actuator. I believe that is what it's called and I need to find a reliable source.

idparts.com or metalmanparts.com

LightningBug said:

Thanks guys, but that didn't answer my last question. The auto trans works fine and I have recently cleaned the injectors. My issue is finding a replacement waste gate actuator. I believe that is what it's called and I need to find a reliable source.

Click to expand...

http://www.idparts.com/vane-actuator-vnt-15vnt-17-a4-alh-p-530.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYkNMOzsk14

It's the turbo actuator (not a wastegate).

Here's a new one. It's for a Garrett (which would be what should be on there if it's stock).

http://www.idparts.com/vane-actuator-vnt-15vnt-17-a4-alh-p-530.html

I'd consider new vacuum lines to boot.

Well, I finally got a few minutes to go out and play with this again. I brought my ohm meter home and checked the #3 injector sensor, 90 ohms. Started pulling off big hoses to inspect the turbo and found what I believe is the waste gate actuator arm broken. This was damaged before because there was epoxy on the two parts where someone had tried to fix it. Anyone have any idea what exactly this thing is called and where I can get a new one? I REALLY need to get a book on this thing!

Click to expand...

What you describe here sounds more like you're looking at the anti shudder valve on the intake. The turbo actuator is all metal and it seems unlikely someone would epoxy one. At any rate just to make sure we're all talking about the same thing the actuator for the turbo is right on the turbo and the ASV is up on the intake.

Thanks Metal Man, we are getting closer. I looked over the engine last night and could not find what looks like a traditional turbo so I dug a little deeper. (Have I mentioned that these Beetles were not made for us gorillas to work on?!) Apparently what I need is on the top of the engine on the passenger side, as apposed to the driver side where the air intake is. In this youtube video,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wp8Pxur6fgw
you can see the actuator at the top of the engine near the front where a hose would be connected. It is black plastic with a plastic arm that moves the butterfly. It is just above the metal flex line that goes up and connects into the valve that this operates. The hose that has been removed in the video runs forward and dumps in front of the front wheel.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wp8Pxur6fgw

Found it! Well, probably not exactly the one I need, but getting closer!
http://www.metalmanparts.com/product.sc?productId=840&categoryId=-1
Thanks Metal Man, will probably be calling you soon.

Are you referring to the turbocharger actuator? It is a bell-shaped device next to the turbocharger with a vacuum port (attached to a servo-valved vacuum line) on the housing and a rubber diaphragm on the bottom with a metal arm that passes through the diaphragm. It is connected by a mechanical linkage to the wastegate control arm on the turbocharger.

The actuator is a replaceable part, at least it is in the MK 6 cars.

The ASV valve not working won't affect the way it runs. The one in the link (the one you ordered) is not correct for and ALH. This would be the actuator, but I don't have any right now.
http://www.metalmanparts.com/product.sc?productId=576&categoryId=75

Crud! This is turning out to be more of a project than I really have time for. Metal Man, can you cancel my order or do you need me to call or something?

My other option was to see if I could separate the arm from the bellow and print a new one here at work. We have a 3D scanner and some really cool printers and I hear they are looking for projects. I guess I'll let you know how it works.

maxmoo, I'll keep the link, just in case. Thanks.

If this doesn't fix it, I may just tell the family to sell as is. Again, runs great, just no power.

The whole EGR valve can be had for around $150. It looks like this place has the part your looking for. http://www.fixmyvw.com/egr-valve-actuator-for-alh-tdi/

If you're looking at an EGR valve, then FixMyVW.com also has them for a great price. I bought one and have been running it for over 30k miles w/o any issues.