Burning lots of oil. This ain't good.

No informed person would still use conventional oil or rely on the FAQ to justify using conventional oil, or recommend conventional oil to others using the FAQ as a reference source.

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I did NOT just use the FAQ for reference source for my info. I did do plenty of searching and that's how I found out that TDI engineers changed their minds later on about using dino oil in a ALH.I took all the info into account and made my judgment on using 15W-40.

Would I use it all the time? Absoutely NOT!!! Is your engine going to blow up, melt down, or fall out of your car using it once with ARX? Probably not.

Beside, I wonder how many ALH failures there have been using rotella 15W-40 in warm weather with 3,000-5,000mi OCI? Probably none. They usually get killed by idiots who screw up the TB or with idiots that insist on using fryer greese in their TDI.

turbocharged798 said:

BTW, 15W-40 is an acceptible oil for the AHU. It was for the ALH until VW engineers changed thier mind. It will do no harm running it for 4,000-6,000miles.

It's posted right here in the TDI FAQ:

In warm weather, a good-quality non-synthetic oil meant for diesel engines with CG-4 or CH-4 ratings may be used. They're not suitable in cold weather due to reduced cold-pumping properties, and it's prudent to shorten the oil change interval because non-synthetic oils may not resist breakdown at high temperatures as well as the synthetic oils (remember that turbocharger). These oils are much easier to find. These include:
Mobil Delvac 1300, 15w40
Shell Rotella T, 15w40
Chevron Delo 400, 15w40

Of course, NEVER NEVER try this in a PD!!!! This refers to the VE cars which are not as picky for the oil they use. Also cold weather is a factor, so try to do this while it is still warm out.

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It sure looks like you considered the FAQ as your primary source, then you use the FAQ as justification for using conventional oil in the ALH or AHU engines. TDIs are TDIs, the older ones need a good oil just as much as the new ones. A '96 Passat, a '98 Jetta, a 2001 Golf -- they all need a quality synthetic oil NO MATTER WHAT WAS PRINTED IN THE OWNERS MANUALS AT THAT TIME.

Short oil change intervals do not make it okay to use conventional oil. A conventional diesel-rated oil is almost as bad as a gasoline-engine-only synthetic. The gas-only synthetic will still protect the turbo and will not result in coking of the piston rings, though it will result in more bearing and piston wear, and will not keep the soot adequately suspended so might cause sludging (otherwise almost unknown in diesel engines).

I thought I had done something right when I started using the rotella t, first off - it was free, second I haven't had to add any oil between intervals whereas when I ran synthetic I had to add a quart every 4k mi or so. Guess I'll be switching back. Thanks for the heads up.

Jetta SS said:

I thought I had done something right when I started using the rotella t, first off - it was free, second I haven't had to add any oil between intervals whereas when I ran synthetic I had to add a quart every 4k mi or so. Guess I'll be switching back. Thanks for the heads up.

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If you use the Rotella T synthetic 5w40, it's not that expensive, and the oil change interval is 10k miles. Are conventional oil users changing at 5m miles or what? Rotella T 5w40 every 10k miles is probably no more expensive than the conventiona 15w40 when you consider the longer OCI.

sounds like to me your engine is worn out, time for a new car

TornadoRed said:

If you use the Rotella T synthetic 5w40, it's not that expensive, and the oil change interval is 10k miles. Are conventional oil users changing at 5m miles or what? Rotella T 5w40 every 10k miles is probably no more expensive than the conventiona 15w40 when you consider the longer OCI.

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That I agree with. It makes no sence to use the rotella 15W-40 and change it every 3,000 miles because it is "cheaper".

I am just using it because ARX works better with dino oil than syn.

afarfalla said:

sounds like to me your engine is worn out, time for a new car

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Well, I wouldn't think if the engine was worn out it would show at least 500psi of compression on all cylinders.

No way as hell are we getting a new TDI. I really don't like those PD's nor do I like how the MKV's look. I would probably drop a new motor in it before we would get a new car.

Jetta SS said:

Hmm, I thought the same about conventional oils, and have been running rotella 15-40 since I was given about 30 gal's of it 2 years ago.

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Thirty gallons of free oil is a great deal, and I don't blame you for wanting to find a use for it.

I was able to pick up 25 gallons of Mobil Delvac 1 5w40 a few years ago for around $11/gallon, or about 60-70% less than the normal retail price. I though, "Okay, now I'm good for the next 20 oil changes, at least."

But it was the older version, CH-4, so I gradually sold it off to club members who may have used it in their TDIs or else in other vehicles. The bottom line was, I decided I'd rather spend a little more for the CI-4+ stuff than use the almost-free CH-4 formulation. I don't know that the CH-4 wouldn't have worked out just fine, but I'd rather be sure that I'm using the best. And synthetic oil got a lot better between CH-4 and CI-4+. (not sure yet about CJ-4)

Sticking rings or cracked rings. My bet is they are cracked.

valve guides burning oil is a big misconception for induced engines. No sucking sound happens when you have a turbo pushing on the intakes. However, rings that are pumping oil can sure do what you are talking about.

I've had two that were burning excess oil. When all options were exhausted, I pulled the pistons. Honed and replace with STD., things got back to normal.

Coking can cause the problem, but unless you are using alternative fuels, I doubt that is the cause.

Franko6 said:

Sticking rings or cracked rings. My bet is they are cracked.

valve guides burning oil is a big misconception for induced engines. No sucking sound happens when you have a turbo pushing on the intakes. However, rings that are pumping oil can sure do what you are talking about.

I've had two that were burning excess oil. When all options were exhausted, I pulled the pistons. Honed and replace with STD., things got back to normal.

Coking can cause the problem, but unless you are using alternative fuels, I doubt that is the cause.

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This car has been on 100% diesel since day 1. No WVO or anything like that.

That would suck if it is indeed a broken ring. Right now it is running pretty dang good and isn't using any oil. I would think if it was a broken ring, it would be a little more constant with the oil smoking.

I am debating about pulling the head on the next TB job just to see what is going on.

I know this is 10 years and 1 and a half months later,
but I'm just really interested in the next pages in the life of this engine lol

turbocharged798, your post history only goes back until 2014,
so I am unable to track what happened since then.
My '03 shares similar conditions now as your 99.5 back then.
Your thoughts now on the A-Rx? The dino oil with it?
Any major engine work done since? Is she still rolling?
TIA for indulging in memory lane if you would!

Wow this is an old thread! I did find the problem, it was egged out cylinder bores. Tore the engine down, punched the bores out +.5mm and installed ASV pistons. Problem solved, burns almost no oil now. Car now has over 400K miles and still runs great. Just did the second timing belt after the rebuild.


Its a happy ending but no so happy fix unfortunately.

turbocharged798 said:

Wow this is an old thread! I did find the problem, it was egged out cylinder bores. Tore the engine down, punched the bores out +.5mm and installed ASV pistons. Problem solved, burns almost no oil now. Car now has over 400K miles and still runs great. Just did the second timing belt after the rebuild.
Its a happy ending but no so happy fix unfortunately.

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What did that cost you?