GARRETT VNT HOP UP PICS

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SkyPup

Guest
Here is the end of my hopped up VW 1.9L TDI mit Wetterauer Enhancement, Techtonics 2.5" exhaust, und boosted Garrett VNT15 turbo most often seen by masses of petrol guzzlers:



Here is the boost guage at 16 PSI while cruising at 105 mph on my closed circuit test track (smokin'
)
:



Here is the boost guage at WOT in 3rd gear running 26PSI boost, stunning power
:



Here is a shot of the 99 A4 VW TDI US engine with my turbo boost tubing installed in the post intercooler line just prior to the EGR valve on the upper left (it is the tiny white plastic tubing line wrapped around the black intake tubing):



Here is the VW-AUDI model Garrett VNT15 turbocharger up close with the adjuster in between the turbine housing on the left and the compressor assembly housing on the right. The serial number and VW-AUDI VNT15 Logo are on the flat section just to the right of the words VNT15 I typed in:



This is the ajustor for the VNT15 that provides all the boost. It closes the nozzle down in relation to torque demand only, pull down for more torque, let up to cruise.:




These are the specs for the Garrett VNT15 turbos:

http://www.alliedsignal.com/turbos/products/aftermarket/bc_smallfrm.html


Here is a compressor map for the GT series Garretts:

http://www.alliedsignal.com/turbos/products/turbo/compact.html


Next mod will be some intercooler development work and a Bilstein HD shock absorber suspenison upgrade. Here is the 99 Jetta enjoying itself in the sun:


DON'T BOOST ME UP SCOOTY! THERE IS INTELLIGENT TURBOCHARGED VOLKSWAGEN TDI LIFE DOWN HERE AFTER ALL!!!


Thanks to Fred for all the help in cyperspace and to D'Nardo for getting me started on TDI Performance enhancements in the first place. Also, thanks go to Mickey, Peter, Keith, and Gary for their dedication to all that is TDI.


[This message has been edited by SkyPup (edited October 11, 1999).]
 
S

SkyPup

Guest
This BEAST sure is a *****in' Ride!


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99 JETTA TDI HERR WETTERAUER TORQUEMEISTER
98 KAFER WETT SPEKTAKULARE TURBOKOMPRESSOR
97 KTM 620 ADVENTURE RALLY PARIS-DAKAR SUPER THUMPER
ICH LEBE MEIN TECHORAD VW TDI'S MIT DIREKTEINSPRITZER TURBOKOMPRESSOR
 

The Ripster

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 4, 1999
Location
UP of Michigan
TDI
None at this time
Do you ever get up this way with your wrenches ?? Pretty sharp, if you are ever
up this way. Did you remove the cover on
the engine or did it come with one.
Love the wheels and the plate, should
have my personalized DSLTURBO soon.
 
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SkyPup

Guest
I removed the top engine cover and have left it off, however all the other lower covers are left on. I also had and ABD Q-Flow K&N air filter on the MAF but recently put the OEM unit back on with K&N filter in it for cooler air flow to the turbo and less stress on the intercooler. Seems to be about the same overall, but I think the OEM setup for fresh air is important.
 

Youry

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 16, 1999
Location
Louvain-La-Neuve, Belgium
riding with 25 psi boosty that's something ! But that's something to explose your engine quickly, I would not keep this setup for long, but that;s yoyur car, and youe engine, I've exploded an engine once I don't want it to happen again and that was with just changing the chip on my ex GOLF 3 110 HP TDI to 140 HP (I agree the chip was probably of bad quality as the car smoked like hell) but hat does mean you can explode this engines easily if you are not carefull. i doubt seriously the engine can handle this boost for long....If not I would do anything just to feel the sensation of 25psi during an accelaration on my GOLF IV, wow that must be something....

------------------
Youry
TDI-110HP boosted to 140HP VW GOLF 4 Belgian owner
 
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SkyPup

Guest
Thanks for the note Youry, I agree with what you've said and indeed this may not be a long term everyday setup for sure, the jury is still out on the absolute compatability of the entire high boost package. Twenty-six psi of boost is very high and creates lots of pressures throughout the entire engine so I may be forced to back off on this set-up as you have indicated. I like to think that a solid 18 psi all the time would be a good acceptable boost range for total all around operation and performance, that may be what I settle for once I become accustomed to this setup. For the time being, it is awesome, we'll see what develops.
 

Youry

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 16, 1999
Location
Louvain-La-Neuve, Belgium
Just wanted to add a comment, my actual car has a turbo boost gauge like yours (I added it myself) and when I accelerate it goes up to 1.2/1.3 bars (roughly 18psi), but that is not possible in reality, what happens is that it is the inertia of the indicator (it stays there half a second a comes back down right away on 0.9 bars (13 psi) which is the normal figure, so you surely also have that same effect !

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Youry
TDI-110HP boosted to 140HP VW GOLF 4 Belgian owner
 
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SkyPup

Guest
hehe, not quite! The AutoMeter turbo boost guage that I have is filled with clear liquid OIL, it is the professional race model for very sensitive pressure measurements accurate within 1.0% (in this case 0.28 psi). This guage does not move, flicker, or have any wayward movement whatsoever. In addition, the boost hookup in post intercooler right before the intake manifold so this is ACTUAL DELIVERED BOOST, nothning less.
There is no over surge, only real boost. What the guage is reading is what the compressor is producing and what is going into the combustion chambers, make no mistake about it.

BTW, please read my other post about VNT mechanical design and operation, there is alot more going on than meets the eye!


[This message has been edited by SkyPup (edited October 14, 1999).]
 
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SkyPup

Guest
look closely at the top of the guage photo, it has a line across it a couple of millimeters from the top of the guage, that is the interface of the thick liquid oil with the air bubble on top. In fact, I have to keep a lose screw on top to let air in and out of guage during temperature changes to keep liquid oil from expanding compressed air inside a closed off guage, possibly breaking the glass from too much pressure.
So, no way is this some guage misread, the smoking tires are evidence of that too!
 

Craig

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 8, 1999
Location
Kitchener, Ont., Canada
Great pix! Ah! No PCV bypass, eh?. One suggestion for future is a technique I use often. After the picture is scanned, import into a graphics package and draw a color arrow (red) pointing to the part you are emphasizing.

I am having trouble figuring out this adjustment from the picture. If you are suppose to adjust the nut what is the knurled part? Or is the knurled part for adjusting? It looks like it has colored paint to mark the spot and stop it from loosening. Is this correct?

Love your boost gage. Looks like a hot rod from the '60s when everyone had a tach on the dash. Have to look into one of these things. Was thinking it would be fun to see the reaction to havingyour Jetta in one of the local weekly hot rod shows we have here every summer. Put up a sign up saying "21st-Century Diesel Hot Rod".)
 
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SkyPup

Guest
The 10mm nut on the bottom of the knurled adjustor is the locking nut. Moving the knurled adjustor down (turning clockwise to the left) give sensitive awesome boost max increase as well as increased response. Turning the adjustor knurl up (turning clockwise to the right) lowers response and peak boost.
Losing track of how many turns you have screwed it away from OEM setting will guanrantee and blown turbo, motor, or brain (yours)!


Don't screw with it if you can't stand the responsibility of what happens next.


[This message has been edited by SkyPup (edited October 21, 1999).]
 

Craig

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 8, 1999
Location
Kitchener, Ont., Canada
Thanks. Perfectly clear now!

I can just see it now. TDI owner to Service Manager when getting warrantee repairs: "It must have worked it's way loose or something."
 
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SkyPup

Guest
Any other TDI fools try to bend a connecting rod or stretch yer head bolts yet?
be sure to keep track of the exact turns away from OEM that you make, otherwise you'll be lost in hyper-space!


[This message has been edited by SkyPup (edited October 21, 1999).]
 
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SkyPup

Guest
Must be alot of TDI wimps and weenies out there since so far only two people have told me they've boosted their VNT's, although I recommended each only one turn. The feedback has been positive, especially the increased noise evident from the supercharged turbo boost ramping up the turbine and compressor under the hood much louder, not to mention the increased response and heavy torque increase. Slap on a TT full flow exhaust system and experience the thrill of a world class TDI running around in a third world diesel nation -> the United States of America
 
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mickey

Guest
I'm going to see if I can convince the guys at the Park City garage (who are currently attempting to breath life into my City Jeep again) to let me use their lift so I can try this. Per our conversation, I think I'll stick with 1 turn of extra boost. I'm concerned about over-reving the turbo in the rarified atmosphere at 7000 feet above sea level! (Sometimes nearly 11,000 feet, but that's not an every day thing.)
My goal here is to get a little extra oxygen in the cylinders to cut down the smoking. Performance is already good enough for my tastes. (And bank account.)

-mickey
 

Craig

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 8, 1999
Location
Kitchener, Ont., Canada
Thumper has only half the boost of SkyPup!! With 329 lb-ft of torque at 8,000 rpm I bet SkyPup has a let more below 3,000 rpm. Guess which one is the real-world street machine?
 
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mickey

Guest
I did this mod over the weekend: One full turn of "extra" boost. I don't have a boost gauge, so I can't quantify the difference. I notice that the sudden rush of boost that used to appear at 2000 rpm now appears at about 1800 or so. And it isn't nearly as "sudden", since the low rpm power is enhanced. Turbo lag is much less. High rpm power also enhanced, but not dramatically. Overall the engine seems to be considerably more "driveable" than before, with less of a tendency to kill when I start out. (Go ahead and laugh, you Floridians! You've never driven a stock TDI at this altitude. There is very little torque just off idle.) I like it a lot! Great mod, and the price is right. At least until I fry my turbo, but I'm not too concerned about that. I didn't do anything drastic, like SkyPup did. In fact, I'm almost convinced that the turbo wasn't set up correctly from the factory. Smoking is considerably reduced now! I wonder if my car has been sick all along and only just now is working properly.

-mickey
 
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SkyPup

Guest
Based on the dire results of having your turbocharged exhaust pipe damaged and throwing flames out under the car similar to what happened on the Cessna planes, it pays to install a first class exhaust system if you do plan to upgrade to a high performace TDI exhaust.

The improvement in low end boost with one turn like Mickey has done does add to driving pleasure of the TDI since the torque is enhanced and comes on lower. The torque application in my sea level rides is so enhanced it feels like a sledge hammer when the rpms hit. In fact, this could potentially be dangerous on ice or slippery wet roads in the hands of an inexperienced driver. In third gear on a hard pack dirt grade when I floor it off idle it hunkers down and stomps on the get-go until about 2,200 rpm when the front tires both light up clawing for traction, guess what, the rubber loses! Be super careful on turns, especially slick ones, as too much throttle can send you out of control in a heartbeat. One turn also increases top end horsepower noticeably on the upper end over 3,500rpm past 4,000, whether or not that is in combination with the TT 2.5" cat back system I am not sure, but it certainly is noticable.
My BOSCH manual states that HP drops 10% for each rise of 1,000 meters (3,300 feet or so) in a naturally aspirated engine, not quite sure what the effects are for a turbocharged engine although I would imagine it is less pronounced, especially once the turbo get charged up and spooling.
 
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mickey

Guest
In theory the maximum power output of a supercharged engine, like a TDI, should be immune to the effects of altitude as long as the boost pressure is adjustable and the computer automatically compensates for the lower barometric pressure. I notice no difference in maximum engine power output between 4500 and 8500 feet. It seemed to drop off slightly as I neared 10,000 feet, so I guess the VNT's vanes are pulled down as tight as they'll get at that altitude. At low rpms, though, the altitude difference is very noticable. I think you'd be shocked at how gutless your TDI would be at low rpms up here in the mountains, just as I'd be shocked (and probably frightened) at how nasty mine would be near sea level. The effect is even more pronounced in a TDI compared to other diesels, since the compression ratio is considerably lower than it is in a traditional non-turbo diesel. The poor things get pretty sick up here.

I live in a subdivision called Stansbury Park. Somebody in the neighborhood owns a white TDI Passat. I'm sure they're not in the Forum, or they would have said "howdy, mickey!" by now. But in watching that car putter around the neighborhood for a couple of years I've noticed that when they hit the accelerator and take off from idle the car emits a really HUGE cloud of black smoke! Much worse than my '99 NB mit Wett has ever been. Maybe they're not into maintainance like I am, but I chalk that up to having a Garret GT rather than the new high-tech VNT-15. My turbo spools up a lot quicker than theirs. Maximum boost pressure is the same, but low rpm operation isn't nearly as efficient.

-mickey

[This message has been edited by mickey (edited October 26, 1999).]
 

Peter Cheuk

Gasser :P
Joined
Aug 31, 1998
Location
Daly City, Calif., USA
TDI
'06 Jetta GLI
For you guys worried about head gasket failures and such, especially those of us running higher than stock boost, RACEWARE head studs are a good preventative measure. RACEWARE is very highly respected in modified German car circles, especially amongst VW and Porsche tuners.

I just got an email from Randy (head honcho?) at RACEWARE and he told me that their kit for newer diesels (RT-106; VW diesels from '91 or '92 on) will work on our cars and should be fairly easy for someone who's mechanically competent to do themselves.

I'm planning on doing this to my car before doing a turbo upgrade.

[This message has been edited by Peter Cheuk (edited October 26, 1999).]
 
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mickey

Guest
I'll keep that in mind for future reference. ("Future" meaning: "After my head gasket blows.")

It's really scary. My car was running a lot stronger today than it did on Saturday when I did the mod. Now I know what you sea-level types mean when you say "INSTANT throttle response!" I can hear the turbo spool up instantly from idle. Smoke is completely gone unless I "lean on it" and I swear the fuel economy is better! The gauge didn't budge today, and I drove over 110 miles since I filled up. (Is that possible? Well, less smoke means more complete combustion, and that means better fuel economy!) Is there nothing this car can't do?

-mickey

p.s. Oh, by the way: SkyPup for President!

p.p.s. I think I'll skip the boost gauge. I'm having way too much fun and I don't want mean old "reality" to spoil it! I'm just going to naively assume it's making 18 psi of sustained boost and leave it at that.
 
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SkyPup

Guest
Those RaceWare products are definitely first class state of the art engineered high tech and they do have the same reputation too. They deserve a close look for people seriously modifying their TDI's.
Mickey, the ECU has to take time to adapt to the VNT adjustements as now your Manifold Air Pressure, Intake Air Pressure, and MAF sensor are running in higher ranges. It does keep getting better as time goes on and the thing adjusts to your driving habits. Just be sure to run it floored quite a bit, particularly from about 1,500rpm to 4,000 rpm in 3rd gear as that is the maximum boost area for the thing to map in correctly. It does just GO like a rocket once it hunkers down, I am really surprised that it worked out so easy, of course there is more to do getting some more fuel in there too and possibly adjusting the MAP, IAT, and MAF values to accomodate the power, but hey! it's for free and it works pretty damn well as long as you don't over do it.
Get the Autometer Oil-Filled Liquid Mechanical Boost Gauge #5404, it is simply the best and is great fun looking at, especially when going up and down hills (mountains in your case
) and letting the engine just torque out to maintain speed.
TDI'S RULE - GAS SUCKS!
 

Craig

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 8, 1999
Location
Kitchener, Ont., Canada
SkyPup, if one makes mods and uses WOT to 'adjust' the chip, what happens if you now drive like Tazzman for the next month then suddenly need to call upon the additional power? Did the month of light-foot driving now adust the programming to a gentler beast obliterating the first WOT settings?
 
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SkyPup

Guest
Craig, probably YES. It is going to change for a number of various factors, including but not limited to 1. Climate (temp changes throughout the year) 2. Altitude and Barometric Changes (driving through different altitudes in High and Low pressure atomspheric conditions) 3. Driving cycle habits (WOT cross country jaunts all the time or creeping to and from the shopping mall round trip less than 5 miles) 4. Fuel quality (crappy fuel produces crappy exhaust gas and crappy turbo response)
5. Mental capacity and Country of operation (Tazz is an talented intellectual and a citizen of the great country of Canada, others are not so forutnate).

6. Age and engine mechanical conditions change (rings leak, valves leak, sensors change accuracy, turbine wheels erode, soot builds up, etc. etc. etc. and the ECU adjusts to the changes in the engine over time within the mapping limits programmed in OEM.)

[This message has been edited by SkyPup (edited October 27, 1999).]

[This message has been edited by SkyPup (edited October 27, 1999).]
 
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SkyPup

Guest
I have their catalog at home so off hand I don't know. However, when purchasing a boost gauge for a turbodiesel, all you need is 0-35 PSI model, do not get one with negative vacuum readings, they are for gasoline cars. It is a mechanical gauge too, the liquid oil filled ones are too be preferred, very accurate and absolutely no noise or vibrations.
 
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mickey

Guest
"Counter-clockwise" as viewed from BELOW. Look at the picture. You will be loosening the 10 mm lock nut. Loosen it several turns. Then you will be turning the knurled adjuster IN THE SAME DIRECTION AS YOU TURNED THE LOCK NUT. In other words, screw the ajuster "into", or "towards" the vacuum actuator at the bottom.

You'll notice from the photos that the actuator rod kind of "flares out" around the knurled adjuster. Get a sharp wax pencil and scribe an index mark on the adjuster right next to the "flared" part of the rod. Turn the screw exactly ONE full turn. (Or more if you want to, but I think you'd be crazy. Sorry, SkyPup!) Re-tighten the lock nut.

Don't expect miracles right off the bat. You'll notice a difference, but it takes a day or two of hard driving for the full effect.

Standard disclaimer: If your car blows up, it's NOT MY FAULT! Got it? I had nothing to do with your decision.


-mickey
 
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