MN Chat Thread

greengeeker · Oct 15, 2014

[486] said:
I could tell you pretty easily which wires to butcher together with an old ford starter solenoid to battery power, but that'd be a hack thing.
It may be the direction my GPs are going to go in, though. Soon as I can find the proper way to disable the codes in the computer's coding...

The easy bypass is to wire in a momentary switch inline to the coolant temp sensor. Press switch and ECM thinks you're in the artic and commands max glow time. Personally I just prefer to fix the issue instead of spending time on a work around.

[486] · Oct 15, 2014

greengeeker said:
The easy bypass is to wire in a momentary switch inline to the coolant temp sensor. Press switch and ECM thinks you're in the artic and commands max glow time. Personally I just prefer to fix the issue instead of spending time on a work around.

Oh, my fix involves using winols to remove the GP codes from the ECM, removing the GP "relay" (really a box of FETs) and just putting power to the GPs the brute force way.

ETA: Just as soon as I can figure out how to get winols to export the thing into something useful, or find a way to edit the binary without winols, as it is only a few simple little single value changes.

greengeeker · Oct 15, 2014

[486] said:
Oh, my fix involves using winols to remove the GP codes from the ECM, removing the GP "relay" (really a box of FETs) and just putting power to the GPs the brute force way.

ETA: Just as soon as I can figure out how to get winols to export the thing into something useful, or find a way to edit the binary without winols, as it is only a few simple little single value changes.

you lost me at winols.

will be interested to see your setup when you get it together.

JFettig · Oct 16, 2014

Way more work than its worth 486

You can do the same thing with EDC Suite, its just a little different. Just reinstall the proper glow plug control!

merkerguitars · Oct 16, 2014

Well DWNUNDR's car turned into a project.

I pulled it into my bay at the end off the day yesterday. First thing I did was check the tbelt, this is what I found....

Noticed the tensioner tang not in the slot. So I started to tear it down and found the stop for the spring completely busted off. Cam to crank timing was off.

So I started to tear it down some more and looked into a few things.

Had a mitshuboshi brand belt, which would be fine for a subaru, but it was an all rubber belt that would not of lasted 100k miles.

Had the original tensioner and roller but a new no name brand water pump.

So I threw a complete timing belt kit at it to make sure everything was ok. So I started to spin it over to make sure timing was ok. I then heard a "click" sound every once in awhile. Investigating further I found the noise coming from the valve cover. This is what I found.

It will need a cylinder head. the old lifter chunks are wedged pretty good into the bore.

[486] · Oct 16, 2014

JFettig said:
Way more work than its worth 486
You can do the same thing with EDC Suite, its just a little different. Just reinstall the proper glow plug control!

I plan on much dumber stuff in the future.

I'm interested in how you can do it in the EDC15p suite, it only allows me to edit a few portions of the data that it sees as maps (and undefined maps).

Another question would be on how these ECUs react to boost being above "requested"
Got a subaru TD04 all set up and adapted to bolt up behind my VNT15, just waiting on actually putting it in until I can be sure I won't be driving the truck every day until I figure out the ECU's dislike for compound turbos.

greengeeker · Oct 17, 2014

You're having all sorts of fun down there merk.

merkerguitars · Oct 18, 2014

Oh you should see the oil cooler job I'm doing on a Mercedes ml350 cdi. Now that is a fun job.

Steve-o · Oct 18, 2014

Never a dull moment there, is there merk? See ya next week (GP harness).

[486] · Oct 19, 2014

Any of you guys got a junked head (with a cam and at least 2 lifters sorta halfway intact) sitting around? Give you $20 for it. Gotta be better than scrap.

Had an idea in my head for a while. Little jake brake. Be simple enough to put together, just need a pattern head that can get covered in nicks and such.

isonic · Oct 20, 2014

Are Coolant reservoir bottles a service part? I was reading that the cap is a service part that should be replaced periodically, but I didn't find anything about the bottle itself.

I ask because it seems like the pressure in the coolant system doesn't release in my car. When I drive the car the level of coolant in the bottle actually goes down and stays down. After letting the car sit I can open the cap on the bottle and hear a rush of air coming out, the level of coolant then rises back to normal in the bottle. Not sure if this is normal?

[486] · Oct 20, 2014

Usually it'll depressurize on its own from the steam recondensing into water. Suck a vacuum, even.

If it keeps pressure even when the entire system is back down dead cold I'd say you've got other issues like a headgasket.

Kriesel · Oct 20, 2014

isonic said:
Are Coolant reservoir bottles a service part? I was reading that the cap is a service part that should be replaced periodically, but I didn't find anything about the bottle itself.

I ask because it seems like the pressure in the coolant system doesn't release in my car. When I drive the car the level of coolant in the bottle actually goes down and stays down. After letting the car sit I can open the cap on the bottle and hear a rush of air coming out, the level of coolant then rises back to normal in the bottle. Not sure if this is normal?

Saw someone else with similar issues:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=375541

isonic · Oct 20, 2014

Same symptom as the guy in the link. I replaced the cap over the weekend and have the same issue as I did with the old cap. It is very slow but I think I am loosing coolant.

ajaxstar · Oct 20, 2014

New TDI guy just over the border questions about Mk3 Jetta

Hello everyone! I'm new to the forum and just wanted to introduce myself and ask a few questions. I purchased a 1997 5-speed TDI Jetta for $1600 with appoximatly 170k on it, with the understanding that it had some issues including:
Struts, two tires, some exhaust repair, and common rust issues with this era car. Since purchase I have encountered other issues that include a leaking injection pump from the head area, leaking brake system from area yet to be determined but clutch went out due to air in system ( was able to resolve after bleeding clutch slave) , more rust issues in floor found, and I'm sure there are more issues yet to be discovered. (I did a poor job of realistically looking over the car)

My question to you much more experienced and wiser TDI owners, is it worth putting the money into this car or should I count my losses and look for another TDI? I am not a naturally talented mechanic, but I can follow guides and instructions to complete basic repairs. My other car is a 2001 1.8t Audi a4, but I'm looking for the milage of a TDI with the commuting I do between grad school and work.
thanks for any input and advice you may have.

greengeeker · Oct 20, 2014

ajaxstar said:
Hello everyone! I'm new to the forum and just wanted to introduce myself and ask a few questions. I purchased a 1997 5-speed TDI Jetta for $1600 with appoximatly 170k on it, with the understanding that it had some issues including:
Struts, two tires, some exhaust repair, and common rust issues with this era car. Since purchase I have encountered other issues that include a leaking injection pump from the head area, leaking brake system from area yet to be determined but clutch went out due to air in system ( was able to resolve after bleeding clutch slave) , more rust issues in floor found, and I'm sure there are more issues yet to be discovered. (I did a poor job of realistically looking over the car)

My question to you much more experienced and wiser TDI owners, is it worth putting the money into this car or should I count my losses and look for another TDI? I am not a naturally talented mechanic, but I can follow guides and instructions to complete basic repairs. My other car is a 2001 1.8t Audi a4, but I'm looking for the milage of a TDI with the commuting I do between grad school and work.
thanks for any input and advice you may have.

I guess it depends how long you need to limp the car along and if you're ok with dealing with its issues while you do it. If you need a 100% reliable means of transportation then I wouldn't recommend it. If on the other hand you only need to keep the car going while you're in school and then upgrade when you're out of school it might be the right fit AND you'll probably be able to recoup the money you have in the car.

[486] · Oct 20, 2014

clutch hydraulics use brake fluid from the same res (on mine at least)
"leaking brakes" might be a leaking clutch slave or master, as it had air in it.

Brake pedal softer than is normal on these cars?

ajaxstar · Oct 20, 2014

Thanks for the feedback and advice. I am trying to make it another 1.5 years with the car, so I guess we'll see what happens ( I do have my reliable Audi as a back up just in case). The brakes do seem a bit soft, I'll have to dig a little further into trying to figure out what the exact issue is.

ajaxstar · Oct 21, 2014

Can anyone provide recommendations for local TDI mechanics around the Twin Cities area.? Does anyone have any idea of what a timing belt change along with injection pump reseal job would cost?

prsa01 · Oct 21, 2014

anybody on here buy the 2009 wagon w/317k?

Just wondering if somebody in the club bought this car. I'd be interested in how it goes and what all ends up needing to be done. I was planning on looking at it today.

Just curiosity.

Thanks

JFettig · Oct 21, 2014

I exchanged a couple e-mails but they never responded when I asked about the specific codes. The ad is still up, is it sold?

JFettig · Oct 21, 2014

ajaxstar said:
Can anyone provide recommendations for local TDI mechanics around the Twin Cities area.? Does anyone have any idea of what a timing belt change along with injection pump reseal job would cost?

Merkerguitars at Midwest Motorworks or greengeeker when he is ready for new customers again

prsa01 · Oct 21, 2014

Yes, it sold to the first one who saw it yesterday

Steve Addy · Oct 21, 2014

Hey MN people, looking for the person who bought the instrument cluster from the B4V at Hutch auto parts in Hutchinson MN.

If you're the person who bought it PM me, I'd like to know how many miles were on that cluster when you got it.

Thx

Steve A

MattMc17 · Oct 21, 2014

Hey you guys! (Goonies voice) See left for make and model. Royal blue metallic. Upgrades: Larger '02 or '03 glove box, 3rd injection pump- all Bosch (painted black), added character dent in trunk lid and rear bumper, between my smoked out tail lights. Haha.

Just curious if anyone has successfully fixed their heated seat(s). My drivers side stopped working, don't know if it's the switch because NONE of the WORKING fuse slots light up my connection tester. Took the lower seat cover off and tried to use liquid electrical tape to fix the one loose wire I saw by the main junction of wires by the "butt crack" area. Still nothing. Do I NEED to solder it? Any other common wire-break points? Please help this damsel in distress. Psych- I'm a dude...

MattMc17 · Oct 21, 2014

canast, burpod said he has vag-com... donedeal...

Oh jeez, that was from 2005. Yes, I'm a noob. Humbling...

[486] · Oct 21, 2014

MattMc17 said:
Took the lower seat cover off and tried to use liquid electrical tape to fix the one loose wire I saw by the main junction of wires by the "butt crack" area. Still nothing. Do I NEED to solder it?.

Electrical tape is an insulator, and solder is a conductor. Your mention of both next to eachother makes me think you've got their roles mixed up or something.

At least use crimp connectors when dealing with wires. Soldering really is the best way to do it, but a good well cleaned and crimped butt splice can do the job just the same for years.

MattMc17 · Oct 21, 2014

Good to know. Pretty sure I had the wires right, because it was the black and white ones going to the same junction. I'll check into getting/borrowing a soldering iron, or just crimp it with a wire connector, yes. Thought I twisted the wires together pretty good before slapping on the liquid tape, but yeah...

Next ideas if that's not it?

[486] · Oct 21, 2014

Check for juice at the load.

Take a headlight bulb or something that draws a bit of current and hook it up to the two wires going to the heater element. Turn the heater on full, does the bulb light?

kbrenny · Oct 22, 2014

There was a thread either on here or vortex that covered the common failure of the thermistor on the heated seat circuit. It is located in the heating element, and not available separately. I had to source some from an online source using the specs from the thread. I had to order like 20 or so. I have plenty left over so if you need some just make a small donation to TDIclub and I will mail some to you.

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