kpiazzisi
Well-known member
I just ordered a new cylinder head gasket for my BRM. I confirmed I have the "two hole" gasket. I ordered the correct part number, but the holes for the water jackets on the new gasket our smaller. See PICS
Cylinder head gasket doesn't match
- Thread starter kpiazzisi
- Start date
kpiazzisi
Well-known member
Here is the packaging for the new gasket
Franko6
Vendor , w/Business number
By my book that is a BEW head gasket. The BRM is the same number with the last two letters BM.
Is this Hank? If it is, we'll get this corrected today. Protect that wrong gasket, as it is fragile.
Is this Hank? If it is, we'll get this corrected today. Protect that wrong gasket, as it is fragile.
Franko6
Vendor , w/Business number
Hm, a Bora Head, so not me, I guess. It's the wrong head gasket, all the same. It's a sound-alike name for someone I was doing business in the same state.
Corsair
Veteran Member
if I may....
Thanks to Franko6 (who I have not met or done business with.... yet...) for chiming in.
Kudos to OP for choosing to question the situation rather than slap it all back together....
Thanks to Franko6 (who I have not met or done business with.... yet...) for chiming in.
Kudos to OP for choosing to question the situation rather than slap it all back together....
kpiazzisi
Well-known member
Frank,
Thanks for the info. I know I have gotten frustrated with you on the phone, because I did not want to face the reality of how precise these things must be. I guess the days of buying a part at Autozone and slapping it on in a weekend don't apply anymore (at least not with these cars). I know enough now to realize that there is very little room for forgiveness with the BRM. I am hoping I can pull this off, but time will tell.
Thanks for the info. I know I have gotten frustrated with you on the phone, because I did not want to face the reality of how precise these things must be. I guess the days of buying a part at Autozone and slapping it on in a weekend don't apply anymore (at least not with these cars). I know enough now to realize that there is very little room for forgiveness with the BRM. I am hoping I can pull this off, but time will tell.
kpiazzisi
Well-known member
OK, now that I have figured out that I have the wrong gasket, I need to move onto another issue.
I think the Ben**** Manual I have is wrong when it talks about adjusting the fuel injectors. It says to put the roller part of the rocker at the highest point and then adjust the srew. This doesn't make sense, because it puts the injector under presure. Seems like it should be just the oposite.
Here is the PIC out of the manual.
I think the Ben**** Manual I have is wrong when it talks about adjusting the fuel injectors. It says to put the roller part of the rocker at the highest point and then adjust the srew. This doesn't make sense, because it puts the injector under presure. Seems like it should be just the oposite.
Here is the PIC out of the manual.
Lee_Taylor
Veteran Member
Ford Galaxy/SEAT Alhambra and a VW Sharan all basically the same vehicle.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Galaxy
The galaxy uses the PD engine 1.9l
Franko6
Vendor , w/Business number
Kevin,
I quoted you fair price for fair product. But that is what got you into this mess. Lee_Taylor says it best in his signature line from above...
“There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey.”
Or to say it another way, you get what you pay for. Now, I'll finish helping you with your problem...
Here's how you set the lash for PD injectors:
Loosen all injector rocker nuts. Loosen ball screw a couple of turns. Install the rocker shafts. Tighten the bolts for the #2,3 and 4 caps to 30 ft lbs. The #1 and #5 caps should be tightened only to 22 ft lbs. Otherwise, the unequal loading of the single end rocker bolt will cant the end bearing caps and cause uneven bearing wear. (this is assuming you have my NON-stretch bolts...)
Install the camshaft sprocket. Use the counter hold tool or equivalent to turn the camshaft clockwise. Watch for movement of the rocker shafts. Firing order is 1-3-4-2. As the rocker descends, watch the center of the intake valve lobe for that cylinder as it meets the injector roller. When the center of the intake lobe intersects the center of the roller rocker for that cylinder, the rocker is a BDC. The intake valve position should look like this:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=72788&title=pd-injector-adjustment&cat=500
Turn the ball screw in until resistance of the injector 'bottoming out' is felt, then reverse directions and unscrew the ball screw 180 degrees. Lock the 18mm nut to 24 ft lbs. Repeat with remaining rockers.
Return the camshaft to a position that both #1 lobes are in the UP position. Insert the cam lock pin.
Next time, you should try paying for the good product instead of finding the cheapest price. That would have kept you out of the problems you bought for yourself. Good luck with that aftermarket head...
I quoted you fair price for fair product. But that is what got you into this mess. Lee_Taylor says it best in his signature line from above...
“There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey.”
Or to say it another way, you get what you pay for. Now, I'll finish helping you with your problem...
Here's how you set the lash for PD injectors:
Loosen all injector rocker nuts. Loosen ball screw a couple of turns. Install the rocker shafts. Tighten the bolts for the #2,3 and 4 caps to 30 ft lbs. The #1 and #5 caps should be tightened only to 22 ft lbs. Otherwise, the unequal loading of the single end rocker bolt will cant the end bearing caps and cause uneven bearing wear. (this is assuming you have my NON-stretch bolts...)
Install the camshaft sprocket. Use the counter hold tool or equivalent to turn the camshaft clockwise. Watch for movement of the rocker shafts. Firing order is 1-3-4-2. As the rocker descends, watch the center of the intake valve lobe for that cylinder as it meets the injector roller. When the center of the intake lobe intersects the center of the roller rocker for that cylinder, the rocker is a BDC. The intake valve position should look like this:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=72788&title=pd-injector-adjustment&cat=500
Turn the ball screw in until resistance of the injector 'bottoming out' is felt, then reverse directions and unscrew the ball screw 180 degrees. Lock the 18mm nut to 24 ft lbs. Repeat with remaining rockers.
Return the camshaft to a position that both #1 lobes are in the UP position. Insert the cam lock pin.
Next time, you should try paying for the good product instead of finding the cheapest price. That would have kept you out of the problems you bought for yourself. Good luck with that aftermarket head...
Cool. Too bad that arrangement doesn't extend to this side of the pond. If I could get the new Focus with a TDI, I'd jump on it!
Cheers,
Lee
PS, good name.
DanG144
Top Post Dawg
Kpiazzisi,
Despite it being called "lash adjustment" by many, you are in fact gently bottoming out the injector pump travel, using a sensitive touch and low forces, then backing off.
You are not setting the free gap as you would in an old style mechanical lifter engine.
When following Frank's excellent instructions for setting the injector travel remember that you must either have the pistons at mid deck height - all four halfway up or down - and the timing belt off, or have the timing belt properly installed, so the cam and pistons travel together and stay in proper time.
Otherwise you wreck your new components by ramming them into a piston.
Despite it being called "lash adjustment" by many, you are in fact gently bottoming out the injector pump travel, using a sensitive touch and low forces, then backing off.
You are not setting the free gap as you would in an old style mechanical lifter engine.
When following Frank's excellent instructions for setting the injector travel remember that you must either have the pistons at mid deck height - all four halfway up or down - and the timing belt off, or have the timing belt properly installed, so the cam and pistons travel together and stay in proper time.
Otherwise you wreck your new components by ramming them into a piston.
Last edited:
kpiazzisi
Well-known member
Frank,
I wish you offered a remanufactured head. I probably would have paid a little more then what I got the AMC head for. I know you offer heads for the older AHU. I would have been interested in a complete head. The shipping back and forth was also a concern of mine. Maybe I can get a cam from you at a latter date. No hard feelings.
I was going to do this with the head off the car. Is that OK? Also can I turn the head with the 18MM cam sproket bolt instead of the special tool I don't have?
I wish you offered a remanufactured head. I probably would have paid a little more then what I got the AMC head for. I know you offer heads for the older AHU. I would have been interested in a complete head. The shipping back and forth was also a concern of mine. Maybe I can get a cam from you at a latter date. No hard feelings.
I was going to do this with the head off the car. Is that OK? Also can I turn the head with the 18MM cam sproket bolt instead of the special tool I don't have?
Last edited:
CedarPark68
Veteran Member
So to be clear and for everyone's education including myself:
I believe I am reading the following:
The NEW gasket pictured is in fact NOT CORRECT.
The OLD gasket pictured is for a BRM.
I'm not clear on:
The OP also ordered a head from someone? Head wrong?
I believe I am reading the following:
The NEW gasket pictured is in fact NOT CORRECT.
The OLD gasket pictured is for a BRM.
I'm not clear on:
The OP also ordered a head from someone? Head wrong?
kpiazzisi
Well-known member
I ordered an AMC head
Yes, I ordered an AMC head. It is the same company I bought all the gaskets, timing belt kit, bolts, etc from. He is working with me on the gasket and is going to be sending me a new one overnight.
Here are some pics of my old cam. I had 150K on the car. I always used mobile one diesel turbo synthetic. It looked to be in good shape. It's a shame the cheap chineese timimg belt broke in 22K miles.
Yes, I ordered an AMC head. It is the same company I bought all the gaskets, timing belt kit, bolts, etc from. He is working with me on the gasket and is going to be sending me a new one overnight.
Here are some pics of my old cam. I had 150K on the car. I always used mobile one diesel turbo synthetic. It looked to be in good shape. It's a shame the cheap chineese timimg belt broke in 22K miles.
Franko6
Vendor , w/Business number
Good call, Dan. I cut and pasted from GTRAMSAY's thread where I wrote out the whole camshaft changeout procedure, including rotating the pistons backward 90 degrees. I forgot to 'cut/paste' that info.
However, if done on the bench, as Kevin is doing, moving the pistons out of the way is not necessary. I think if I used the cam sprocket bolt to rotate the camshaft, the use of a stop nut would help. Or, put something in the hole to keep the bolt from bottoming.
Turns out, Kevin, I do have a couple of BEW cylinder heads. One is ready to assemble. I remanufacture the AHU's, ALH's BRM, BEW, BHW, 1.6, AAZ, AEL, a few 1.8t's.. I would have fixed yours but you didn't want that either.
Obviously, I don't hold a grudge or I would let you go figure it out for yourself.
If that cam lobe is typical, you have been getting good life out of that cam.
However, if done on the bench, as Kevin is doing, moving the pistons out of the way is not necessary. I think if I used the cam sprocket bolt to rotate the camshaft, the use of a stop nut would help. Or, put something in the hole to keep the bolt from bottoming.
Turns out, Kevin, I do have a couple of BEW cylinder heads. One is ready to assemble. I remanufacture the AHU's, ALH's BRM, BEW, BHW, 1.6, AAZ, AEL, a few 1.8t's.. I would have fixed yours but you didn't want that either.
Obviously, I don't hold a grudge or I would let you go figure it out for yourself.
If that cam lobe is typical, you have been getting good life out of that cam.
kpiazzisi
Well-known member
OK I got the Head Gasket Memory solved.
After a couple hours of intense reseach and a lot of calls I got this figured out. The conclusion is that the original part number has been superseded twice. The original gasket that was on the car ends in BT (038-103-383BT). The BT has been superseaded by the manufacturer and is now the 038-103-383DF that we are all familiar with for the 2 hole BRM gasket. The dealer told me that the manufacturer has probably modified the original design to restrict water flow for whatever reason.
Background - I had the Mystery Supplier send me a Victor Reinz. He willfully sent this next day air free of charge. When I received it today it also did not match the original gasket and had the restricted water passages.
__________________________________________________________
I then called dealer all over the US and found one who was willing to take photos of the Dealer Gasket, which matched the Elring gasket exactly. He investigated and came to the conclusion I posted above. Here are the PICS from the dealership. The order is cylinder #1, #2 #3, and finally cylinder #4
After a couple hours of intense reseach and a lot of calls I got this figured out. The conclusion is that the original part number has been superseded twice. The original gasket that was on the car ends in BT (038-103-383BT). The BT has been superseaded by the manufacturer and is now the 038-103-383DF that we are all familiar with for the 2 hole BRM gasket. The dealer told me that the manufacturer has probably modified the original design to restrict water flow for whatever reason.
Background - I had the Mystery Supplier send me a Victor Reinz. He willfully sent this next day air free of charge. When I received it today it also did not match the original gasket and had the restricted water passages.
__________________________________________________________
I then called dealer all over the US and found one who was willing to take photos of the Dealer Gasket, which matched the Elring gasket exactly. He investigated and came to the conclusion I posted above. Here are the PICS from the dealership. The order is cylinder #1, #2 #3, and finally cylinder #4
CedarPark68
Veteran Member
I'd go with the dealer gasket.
I shy away from the Victor products on the BMW side.
I think your first 'new' gasket is a Febi... I shy away from Febi now also as they now 'brand' their name on parts make outside of the EU. (China)
I shy away from the Victor products on the BMW side.
I think your first 'new' gasket is a Febi... I shy away from Febi now also as they now 'brand' their name on parts make outside of the EU. (China)
jasonTDI
TDI GURU Vendor , w/Business number
The cam looked good.
Despite someones mis-givings about the AMC head you'll have no issues with it. I have a client with over 50K on one and zero issues. They make a fine product. Same with the ALH heads. Seen them with over 150K and all was well. Same valve guide wear as the OEM heads. No warpage.
Despite someones mis-givings about the AMC head you'll have no issues with it. I have a client with over 50K on one and zero issues. They make a fine product. Same with the ALH heads. Seen them with over 150K and all was well. Same valve guide wear as the OEM heads. No warpage.
Yes. Ford Galaxy, at least.
As far as I know, Victor Reinz was the OEM gasket TDIs got installed in factory. Why don't you like it?
Also, it seems interesting and quite strange VW decided to restrict water flow to the head. Any ideas about that?
DanG144
Top Post Dawg
The holes may be intended to DIRECT water flow more than to restrict it.
It would be very difficult to make a hydraulic model of the flow inside the block and head on a VW. I do not know if flow is actually reduced by the changes or not.
It would be very difficult to make a hydraulic model of the flow inside the block and head on a VW. I do not know if flow is actually reduced by the changes or not.
I highly doubt you can affect water flow direction by reducing and repositioning holes. Still, reduced holed simply can't increase the flow, they might only reduce it. This move for VW was very interesting and unexpected for me.
DanG144
Top Post Dawg
I don't mean that it would reverse flow, but it would re-direct flow, moving it past hot spots, things like that.
DPM
Top Post Dawg
I recall in the past Toyota changing the size of the water holes in C-series diesel head gaskets a couple of times; these IDI engines were prone to head cracking- sometimes even under warranty.