Engine not turning completely :(

The timing mark on the flywheel would not come up if #2&3 were at TDC.

yea well if the timing mark doesnt come up how are you going to find where your at? there are one of 2 ways, also the smartest and simplest is to find TDC, Before installing head, and turn back 1/2 way, 90dg would be more correct or about a 1/4 turn back. other wise you could get a little stuck, the main solution here is simply, no its not That simple, but, remove cam, obvious to us veterans, theres another way, find a valve-softly bumping, turn crank back, just, a little, and rotate cam, like one lobe in advance, now go back to crank, do this-easily, dont get into any valves, just bump to find where they are at, turn crank back, just a little, and rotate cam(forward), till you now will find the TDC mark in bell housing, then you still have to turn in 90dg Back, 1 to set up for timing, 2 to give valves clearance while you finish install, up to you are ready for timing steps. im not getting on you as much windex, a bit of a long explaination, im just pointing out 1 the simplest way to get it right, and 2 some alternative ways to find what your doing here, (finding that TDC mark to start, and turn it,crank, back correctly).

When i tightened my crank bolt i put screw drivers in the rotors up against the caliper bracket, transmission in 5th and tightened it. It worked for me saved me the time of making a holding tool.

No driveshafts in yet, so it will have to be a holding tool

cal327 said:

When i tightened my crank bolt i put screw drivers in the rotors up against the caliper bracket, transmission in 5th and tightened it. It worked for me saved me the time of making a holding tool.

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Wow. No offense, but that's a good way to crack the gears in the transmission. I measured it and the actual torque at the end of the 90 degrees is around 190-200 ft-lbs. While the car puts out more than that if not stock, it's dynamic torque and not static torque. There is a big difference between the two.

Changed the crankshaft sprocket. There was some wear on the old one, but not so much. Not bad considering 360.000KM!
I was surprised how easy the change went. I've been dreading the job since 2 weeks, and all it took now was 10 minutes. Got the old one of with a counterhold tool and a big *ss extension on the wrench.
Installing went easy with the right tools. Surprised how little force 9KG+90° was.
Next up: re-installing the head!

As for installing the head, am I right here?:
* Put the block at TDC (timing markings flywheel lined up).
* Turn crank 90°
* install head, cam at TDC
* Return crank to TDC
* Install all the rest and timing belt

As long as you have a bar long enough and the right counter-hold tool, the job is easy. It gets difficult when "short" tools are used.

As for the head install process, yes - TDC, then 90 deg to pull all pistons below the deck - you don't actually need 90 degrees, just enough to pull the pistons a few cm below deck height to avoid contacting valves.

Install Head with cam locked at TDC, then bring the pistons back to TDC verified by the flywheel mark in the bellhousing, and then install the timing belt and associated parts.

The important thing is to remember which direction you turned it before installing the head and turn it the opposite way in preparation for installing the belt.

I think that is why the instructions you referred to earlier said CCW then CW.

Doesn't really matter but it's easier to write instructions with specifics rather than options with explanations.

im personally of the opinion you want/need the full 90dg turn forward for timing.
1 like ive said with the accessory belts off, for now, i mark pulley with white out. if you mark it on the bottom, you now can see where your at. rotate crank backwards the 90dg, thats (about) 1/2 a stroke. the pistons are now all even, the pulley mark is going to be even with the bottom of the block where the oil pan meets, it ll be front if you mark bottom of pulley. this mark is no where near the actual TDC mark, but will give you this reference. after installing head and getting ready to time your at the right starting point (for crank), you (if/when timing) will bring crank forward to exact TDC crank mark, donot go past, or you should go fully back with crank 90dg and come back forward to mark(flywheel timing mark). i do believe this practice is actual industry standard. esp for higher revving motors, of the piston type this puts the lower end (from crank to top of 'cyl' or piston if you will) in correct alignment. for us with street cars it may not be quite as important, but it will prevent problems. before starting crank timing, youll already have cam locked-out, TDC cam that is. another thing i do, in these TDI engines the glow plugs are easily accessible, when timing i remove/leave out, for now, when rotating crank theres now -not- kick-back from compression, you can now, after finishing initial timing rotate whole engine 2x over, with ease. another thing about having GPs out, before you 1st start you can now freewheel motor, DoNot have injectors/pipes hooked up, and get initial oil pressure, before firing up, in this the pump squirters will make some mess, maybe use something like cloth to catch this. can also give the pump a little time to run some fuel thru. if in this case you happen to have injectors hooked up a lot of fuel will be expelled from open GP holes, potentially dangerous, and technically engine is potentially hot,alive. perhaps after theses steps your ready to fire-her-up. should be a-ok,gl.

It went perfect
Returned the crank to TDC, same with cam and IP.

Any one know how much LBS FT for installing the IP sprocket?

i do believe cam & inj pump sprocket are each 45ft,lbs. this is up from the low book value, im shaft pulley is the same (45). you need a sprocket wrench for that (IP).
*-i mean spanner wrench.^

Thanks!

iluvmydiesels said:

im personally of the opinion you want/need the full 90dg turn forward for timing.
1 like ive said with the accessory belts off, for now, i mark pulley with white out. if you mark it on the bottom, you now can see where your at. rotate crank backwards the 90dg, thats (about) 1/2 a stroke. the pistons are now all even, the pulley mark is going to be even with the bottom of the block where the oil pan meets, it ll be front if you mark bottom of pulley. this mark is no where near the actual TDC mark, but will give you this reference. after installing head and getting ready to time your at the right starting point (for crank), you (if/when timing) will bring crank forward to exact TDC crank mark, donot go past, or you should go fully back with crank 90dg and come back forward to mark(flywheel timing mark). i do believe this practice is actual industry standard. esp for higher revving motors, of the piston type this puts the lower end (from crank to top of 'cyl' or piston if you will) in correct alignment. for us with street cars it may not be quite as important, but it will prevent problems. before starting crank timing, youll already have cam locked-out, TDC cam that is. another thing i do, in these TDI engines the glow plugs are easily accessible, when timing i remove/leave out, for now, when rotating crank theres now -not- kick-back from compression, you can now, after finishing initial timing rotate whole engine 2x over, with ease. another thing about having GPs out, before you 1st start you can now freewheel motor, DoNot have injectors/pipes hooked up, and get initial oil pressure, before firing up, in this the pump squirters will make some mess, maybe use something like cloth to catch this. can also give the pump a little time to run some fuel thru. if in this case you happen to have injectors hooked up a lot of fuel will be expelled from open GP holes, potentially dangerous, and technically engine is potentially hot,alive. perhaps after theses steps your ready to fire-her-up. should be a-ok,gl.

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so many words though

kooyajerms said:

so many words though

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Where?

whitedog said:

Where?

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You know what? What a great idea, I've never thought of doing so.

kooyajerms said:

so many words though

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So little punctuation

KLXD said:

So little punctuation

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" When;in Rome, "

i didnt really mean to make such a long and complex post there. still. it may be hard to follow for a 'beginner' or if your not used to the routine. once you get used to the routine it gets easier. following the steps is the important part, and getting it right. and you should have no problems from this 'end' if you get it right. i probably could find more explanation on subject and keep on going on with a post on it, (and use less punctuation, make it even more difficult to understand.,jk)
technically the explanation can be complex, as we can all understand, its a basis for what we are doing, trying to accomplish.-getting it right. and theres a lot going on in there. in practice several things can make it (rather) simple. below.

lisab4 said:

Returned the crank to TDC, same with cam and IP.

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so this is incorrect, it was why i posted that difficult and complex post, which may have been hard to understand properly.

in installing head, before this you 1 want to find TDC(crank), as has been suggested, check your crank TDC mark, i used white out, and can add a red felt mark. THEN (important) you want to turn crank back so pistons are even, this is 1/2 a piston stroke, or 1/4crank turn, -back. so 90dg turn back. then do all your work, and leave crank back, leave it alone, so all pistons are even, until your ready for timing steps. otherwise you can easily jam a valve into a piston, or 2, or perhaps 3. and it can be hard to notice.

so to make it simpler. 1 when doing a timing belt, 1 with belt still on, turn motor to TDC, make sure your on #1, knock off cam pulley, disconnect belt. you will now turn crank back the 1/4turn, have that pulley or crank gear marked, so you know aprox where you are @90dg back. you now go on to other work, until your ready to start the timing procedure again.

again with head off, bring crank to TDC, again check flywheel mark, a good suggestion, now turn back so pistons are even. leave crank alone Until you complete all other work, and at/near the last you are ready to set timing.
among other steps i wont cover, you will start timing procedure, 1 check crank is still in proper spot, 90dg back, or 1/4 turn Back. you, among other things, will lock out cam, now turn crank forward to exactly TDC#1, you are now ready for the next steps, and can set the timing.
as i said a neat thing i do is to remove glowplugs, &/or can have injectors out. you wont get compression kick back.

kooyajerms said:

" When;in Rome, "

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I was referring to the same post you were:

So many words, so little punctuation.