oil filter removal...stuck

Anyone know the direction to turn 32mm socket to remove? The direction of the arrow on top or the opposite?

Righty tighty, lefty loosey

Thanks for your help here earlier. Once you responded, that's the direction I focused all my efforts and I got it loose and got my oil changed for the first time on this car (no more complimentary dealer services).

hope you were reasonable in securing the cap. torque spec is 25 n-m or 18 ft-lbs.

less than the drain plug, which is 30 n-m or 22 ft-lbs.

for the filter, the o ring which goes just above the threads on the outside of the cap does the sealing. the cap just has to be snug enough to not come off.

for a first time change, keep an eye on the cap, to make sure it does not leak (at least check when you fuel up)
some folks have put the o ring in the wrong place, or used a cheap o ring, and had an oil leak.

congrats on getting it done.

Wow. If you have to ask which direction to turn the oil filter cap to loosen, car maintenance may not be something you should tackle. Did you do any of the other required maintenance items when you did the scheduled maintenance?

Scheduled maintenance is more than just struggling through an oil change.

it is great to have a resource like this site to ask a question, rather than just get a bigger hammer, or open your wallet.

DIY is a learning proposition.

we all started someplace.

It was a reasonable question. Occasionally items are reverse threaded. Better to ask than risk breaking the plastic cap. Congrats on getting familiarized with maintenance on your tdi.

Ol'Rattler said:

Wow. If you have to ask which direction to turn the oil filter cap to loosen, car maintenance may not be something you should tackle. Did you do any of the other required maintenance items when you did the scheduled maintenance?

Scheduled maintenance is more than just struggling through an oil change.

Click to expand...

You know it is okay to think that and keep it to yourself. The forum is designed to help others, not stone them in public.

Sorry. Sometimes I get a little testy. Agreed, to DIY you have to start somewhere. AT least the OP asked about something he wasn't sure about instead of destroying something.

At my age, sometimes it's hard to not go into "Get off my lawn" mode. Thanks for checking me on that..............

Access to the oil filter cap

I just did second oil change on my 2014 JSW. Here' a couple of observations and helpful hints:

The filter cap and filter housing is recessed pretty badly!.

-I use a 1/2" universal joint on the 32mm socket, with a ~12 inch extension to the ratchet, which really makes it easy once you prepare the area:

1. Use a #30 torx to free the steel tube section that is mounted to the valve cover. This allows you to really get that thing out of the way in seconds.

2. I wrap the mesh tube cover that is just in front of the oil filter access with aluminum foil to keep the oil from getting on it.

Once those two things are done, and you've gotten the cap loose, put the ratchet aside and finish unscrewing it by hand. I hold it up out of there and wiggle it to shake off excess used oil before pulling it out. It is still a tight squeeze maneuvering it out of there. There is one pinch point a few inches up. Just be patient and pull it past the tight spot.

I remove the old oil in the recesses (about 60mL all told) with a syringe with a tube on the tip. Just takes a couple of minutes.

When you reassemble the new oil filter in the cap to reinstall, make sure that the filter is fully seated in the cap so it is not crushed on the way back in!

Again, access is a little tight, but once you have it past the tight spot, it should have room to wiggle until you find the proper fit. It should easily begin threading once in the housing straight, and then it gets hard to turn as the new larger o-ring pushes into the seat. The last few turns need the 32mm socket/universal/ratchet, but you can see the plastic cap contact the oil filter housing and it stops turning. I don't bother with a torque wrench here (experience), but this does NOT have to be much more than snug. It really won't budge, and the seal is made with the o-ring, not how tight you make it!

Wipe off any oil and remove the foil and viola-NO oil-stained mesh! Replace the torx bolts on the tube mounted to the valve cover- you are done on the top side.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-14700-Filter-Socket-Ecotec/dp/B0009OMYAQ

I found it worth the purchase of a 3/8 drive socket designed for the filter removal purpose.

with a long 3/8 extension, and either a universal, wobble, or a flex, you can easily remove the cap without moving any of the tubing.

I used a 1/2 inch drive socket for the first change, but looked around and find it much easier to use this tool.

When I do oil changes I remove the filter cap first and lift the filter to open the drain at bottom of canister. I then let the filter drip into the housing for several minutes while I remove the belly pan and drain plug. Keeps things a bit neater.

meerschm said:

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-14700-Filter-Socket-Ecotec/dp/B0009OMYAQ

I found it worth the purchase of a 3/8 drive socket designed for the filter removal purpose.

with a long 3.8 extension, and either a universal, wobble, or a flex, you can easily remove the cap without moving any of the tubing.

I used a 1/2 inch drive socket for the first change, but looked around and find it much easier to use this tool.

Click to expand...

That's pretty cheap if you don't already have a 32mm socket. Definitely a 1/2" drive is easier for this job-if you have a 32mm socket (1/2" drive), you already own the tool

turbobrick240 said:

When I do oil changes I remove the filter cap first and lift the filter to open the drain at bottom of canister. I then let the filter drip into the housing for several minutes while I remove the belly pan and drain plug. Keeps things a bit neater.

Click to expand...

Excellent suggestion. I can't avoid the lost time searching for tools lol, but letting that filter ass'y drain while doing other stuff is on the list now. thanks.

I use a 1 1/4 inch (1.25 inch) socket I got at a yard sale IIRC. It's a very slightly snug fit (32 MM = 1.26 inch) but works great.

The tool I suggest is a 3/8 inch square drive designed for oil filters. the slimmer 3/8 extension is easier to slip between the extra stuff in the way.

meerschm said:

The tool I suggest is a 3/8 inch square drive designed for oil filters. the slimmer 3/8 extension is easier to slip between the extra stuff in the way.

Click to expand...

Easier to slip between what extra stuff?
There's room for a 3" wide filter assembly in there and EITHER the filter socket or the 32mm socket are BIG

The 1/2" universal just feels MUCH more solid, rotates more smoothly, and a bigger ratchet makes the effort much easier on your hand. The whole thing just works better with the 1/2" drive. Try it!

I have an adaptor to drop drown to 3/8" but why would I bother? It's a 32mm socket!

Use what you've got, or use/buy what you want to. No big deal.

thanks for posting, just sharing what I found.

when I first did my oil change, had to buy a socket that fit, and got the half inch socket. ( I had 1/2 inch drive stuff anyway) when I got into it, found I had to move that rigid tubing out of the way. (as you stated you did). did not think it the best thing to move that tubing around.


after i saw there was a much smaller, low profile, 3/8 drive socket made for the oil filter cover, it seemed worth the purchase.

Now I do not have to touch that rigid tubing. and the 3/8 almost fits without a universal, with the tube in place. (I have not picked up a wobble extension, it seems like it would be perfect)



if you like using that big socket, have fun. I agree that the big one can work,

but someone just starting, and looking for tools, might like to know there is a smaller option that does the job.

Mike,

Removing the steel tubing section on the valve cover is for making more room for the filter removal, not the tool. Just clears the exit path.

It takes just a couple of minutes and does clear the way a bit. If you have the torx #30, it is easy to do, and the flexible tubing on each end of the steel tubing flexes as it should. No harm done.

Optional, but it has no effect on the ratchet size choice.

Andrew

I agree, 3/8" drive with that low-profile socket is best. Use a long (10 or 12 inch?) extension, and put it between that hard injector line and the intake manifold.

The big wire harness bundle is a nuisance. Make sure to use your fingers to push it out of the way as the cap is threaded back on, making sure it doesn't get pinched as you tighten the cap. I've tried to be careful, but it's getting a little worn/frayed after 17 oil changes already.

I used to wrap the EGR tube with aluminum foil, but now use one of these instead to catch drips, both in removing the old filter, and filling with oil. (I usually fill 2 quarts in the filter housing, alternating with 2+ in the fill hole in the valve cover.)

http://www.amazon.com/PIG®-Form---Funnel®-Flexible-Draining/dp/B003V9JWHO/