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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old September 16th, 2019, 09:34   #16
Mike_04GolfTDI
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Any chance the anti-shudder valve in the intake is slow to open or something?
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Old September 16th, 2019, 10:09   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_04GolfTDI View Post
Any chance the anti-shudder valve in the intake is slow to open or something?
No ASV.

I found a thread that covers the ground under the cowl panel by the ECU possibly being corroded, but I find it hard to be my problem, but at this point of chasing the problem front to back and upside down I just need to follow every silly option I have.

I'm not sure how many people with BEWs have had the injector bores become so bad that they no longer seal to the "fuel rail" but that keeps looming over my thought process because I've isolated the fuel system all the way down to post fuel filter and it still does this.
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Old September 20th, 2019, 18:46   #18
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How are the fuel temp readouts when the problem happnes?
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Old September 21st, 2019, 09:23   #19
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Originally Posted by Carlos_TJ View Post
How are the fuel temp readouts when the problem happnes?
Fuel temp and ECT read normal, both are just about ambient when cold starting in the morning.

I had seen a thread that said if you unplug both temp sensors and the car starts happier that there is an update available that is supposed to fix it, but I'm not about to have the dealer update my software, there was also a suggestion of adding cranking fuel if you didn't want to do the ECU update, so I am waiting to hear back from Malone on adding more fuel to the cranking table.

The only other thing that sticks out to me is that the Map sensor reads about 140 mBar and requested is 985mBar with key on engine off, but my actual vs requested is met once the car is running. The car shouldn't be taking manifold pressure into account on OL start up, so I can't imagine that is an issue, not to mention that it reads fine under normal operation.

As of today, I pulled the cowl off, again, and checked the grounds near the ECU and attempted to reset the ECU connections, but other than that I am at a total loss for ideas.
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Old September 26th, 2019, 06:45   #20
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Update: I reset the injector lash and increased my torsion value from 1.1 to 3.3 and the car starts every time now, but still seems reluctant to do so, I don't have to assist it which is a huge step forward.

I'm waiting to hear back from Malone with an updated map, but as of right now just adding more torsion * has gotten the car to a point where it at least starts on its own.
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Old September 28th, 2019, 12:43   #21
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And after two days of sitting we’re back to square one...
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Old October 1st, 2019, 17:26   #22
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If it makes you feel better, I'm following this thread really hoping you find a solution...
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Old October 3rd, 2019, 17:00   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nkfry View Post
Okay, so since the last time I posted I have replaced all of the rubber lines from the plastic lines at the bulkhead to the engine, replaced the Thermo T, and tried running an "IV drip" to the engine, and no luck.

Have you tried smearing the thermostatic tee o-rings with some thick grease to help eliminate an air leak there? Been responsible for many, many issues as you described. I usually used Syl-Glide silicone grease or Super Lube.



Alternately, get a fuel filter for a 1998 NB TDI, same filter but has 4 hose barbs and no thermostatic tee to leak.
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Old October 10th, 2019, 12:04   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scurvy View Post
Have you tried smearing the thermostatic tee o-rings with some thick grease to help eliminate an air leak there? Been responsible for many, many issues as you described. I usually used Syl-Glide silicone grease or Super Lube.



Alternately, get a fuel filter for a 1998 NB TDI, same filter but has 4 hose barbs and no thermostatic tee to leak.
I used Molykote by Dow Corning on the brand new Tee I just installed.

Mark at Malone just sent me a new file that we added 10% at crank and started injection at 0 RPM instead of 50-150 RPM, so we'll see what tomorrow morning brings.
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Old October 15th, 2019, 11:05   #25
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Still has hard starts, still starts "fine" if I apply ~50% accel while cranking.

Who wants a well built 04 with only minor starting issues? -_-
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Old October 15th, 2019, 13:03   #26
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Still has hard starts, still starts "fine" if I apply ~50% accel while cranking.

Who wants a well built 04 with only minor starting issues? -_-
Odd but do you have another accelerator pedal you could install temporarily?
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Old October 16th, 2019, 08:24   #27
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Where did you purchase the crankshaft position sensor? Is the cam sensor original?
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Old October 17th, 2019, 19:57   #28
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Maybe test the pedal in VCDS and see if it moves smooth and matches the pedal position.

I recall reading about a relearn for the pedal but don't remember the steps.
Key on (don't start), floor to pedal for 10 seconds then release and shut off.
Or something like that.
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