Does Brake Caliper Reset Tool not working = caliper piston problem?

I'm using Metalnerd's Rear Brake Reset Tool but it is not working to compress my original rear brake caliper on a 2000 VW Golf GL TDI. Does this mean that there is a problem with the rear brake caliper?

I'm using the directions that came with tool to locate the tool in the caliper. I lubricated the tool threads with WD-40. I turned the jackscrew with my fingers until the tool was firmly in place like the picture in the instructions. But I'm unable to compress caliper piston more than 1/4 turn of the tool handle before the piston seems to lock up. The piston is nowhere near as compressed as the instruction sheet picture shows. Also, I tried compressing by just turning the jacking screw and the piston does not compress. I turned the jack screw only until it squeezed its teflon washer out then gave up.

Has anyone had this problem before?

Are you remembering to use the flat wrench it came with to hold the big nut on the shaft you turn from spinning? If you dont hold the nut then there will no force driving the piston back....

I've never used the metalnerd tool before, but is that tool rotating the piston? because of the parking brake mechanism, the piston needs to be rotated as it's compressed.

ya it's really gay how the rear calipers are on these cars... I had a similar problem, managed to squeeze the things back in place using a home-made caliper tool, then like a month later the calipers were seized up so I had to replace both rear calipers. the right side was way worse, it was nearly totally seized up.

so yeah, in short, even if you manage to get it back in, you may have seizing problems waiting for you just a few weeks down the road. at least that was my experience.

Whats the going price of calipers.?.. I have found that the average caliper likes to crap around the second set of pads... With the pads lasting so long on some VW's, I'm beginning to think that replacement might be the way to go right from the start.

I paid like $93 per side from Murrays over in Detroit. The price in Canada was like $183 my NET price (mechanic's discount)

Especially if you never flush the brake fluid.

bbarbulo said:

so yeah, in short, even if you manage to get it back in, you may have seizing problems waiting for you just a few weeks down the road. at least that was my experience.

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O'Reillys Auto Parts sells an unloaded rear caliper for under $80.

INSPECT THE CALIPERS when you get them!!!!!!! I had two separate issues with my calipers. the one side, the ebrake cable bracket was missing, so I had to swap my old one onto it... the other caliper, the damn bleeder threads were TOTALLY STRIPPED!!!! I mean, the bleeder was just there, I pulled straight up on it and it came out. so check for completeness and function. Needless to say, I was pissed, cuz it added 3 days to the project (had to wait for them to get a replacement caliper), and also I had to make an extra trip over the bridge, costing me $10 in toll.

Winding in the Rear Caliper Pistons

I have changed rear brakes on about a dozen modern VW's and have not had one bad rear caliper yet. Without the proper tool it is nearly impossible to wind the caliper back in.

You can wind it forever, and it will just spin - the key is to put pressure on it while winding it in. The special windback tool allows this by holding the large nut from spinning while you wind back the caliper. This will apply pressure against the piston as it is rotated. I have also read about turning the piston counterclockwise first, so that it extends further, and then carefully wind it back and it will go easier. I haven't had to attempt this.

I also clean up the rubber seal and make sure it is not stuck to the piston before I start the winding process - so that it doesn't get damaged and cause the caliper to fail. Good Luck!

I completely agree that without the tool, retracting the pistons is next to impossible. Even with the tool (http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...l/oem-disc-brake-caliper-tool-set/298604_0_0/) it can be extremely difficult by hand to get enough leverage on the T handle to screw the pistons back in. Yesterday, I used the box end of a large combination wrench to leverage the T handle. This made it very easy to retract the pistons. The tool should have a nut below the handle so to enable the bolt to be turned with a wrench.

Dunno513 said:

Whats the going price of calipers.?.. I have found that the average caliper likes to crap around the second set of pads... With the pads lasting so long on some VW's, I'm beginning to think that replacement might be the way to go right from the start.

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if you take it apart and grease it up at 30k or 6months you wont run into this issue