Changed leaky injector pump seals Cant turn engine by crankshaft pulley. Droped shim?

Hey party people,

I have an 03 tdi jetta wagon with a leaking fuel injector pump.

I bought the seals from dieselgeek and watched their youtube videos closely to not mess up the job....But I think I did.


After getting everything back together, I went to turn the engine over by hand from the crankshaft pulley bolt and I got 2 or 3 good turns and then BAM! Kiss of death. Won't turn over anymore....


I never primed the fuel injector pump with my mighty vac after the install and have not tried to start the car. Do I need to prime the fuel pump first? I'm worried if I do that it could move the shim to a worse location.


Is it possible that the fuel shut off solenoid could do this? The spring in that plunger did not want to stay in. Not sure if it is as it should be...


Are there any other options of things that could stop the engine from turning like this or did I for sure drop that little shim by the cam plate?


If so....Any ideas on the best way to get it back? Is the shim metal? Could I try a magnet? Do I for sure have to take the whole pump out of the car or could I just pull the head out and get it that way?


Any videos or more info on how to get the shim back?


Also what versions of fuel pumps can I put in this car? Would a fuel pump off of a gas VW work on my 03 jetta tdi?



Thank you for any little help.

You need the timing belt tools that will lock the cam and crank.

You will need to pull the pump out of the car. Replacing that little shim is a giant PIA, particularly when you consider how small it is. You just can't do it without pulling the pump and disassembling so that you can keep the pump head vertical. And it is hard enough to do it that way; it is impossible with the pump still installed on the engine.

And no, the pump(s) from a gas model are not diesel injection pumps, so quit worrying about that.

I don't know where there is a video. Generally, if you can find a cross-section type illustration of the VE pump, it will show how the parts fit in relation to each other. That should tell you enough as they won't fit any other way. There may be something on myturbodiesel.com.

Good luck,

PH

I think DBW, drivebiwire? had an illustration way back when.

Thanks for your input Powder Hound and JB05. I had already found a how to for removing the pump on myturbodiesel. But it says I need to "rotate the camshaft sprocket clockwise until the Nr. 1 cylinder cam lobes are pointing upward"

But it won't move cause the pump is messed up....Is it safe to pull the Injection Pump with the cam lobes not being "Top Dead Center"?

Do I just need to mark everything to get it back just right or do I take out the pump, then move the cam lobes to top dead center?

Also do I still need the cam lock if I can't get it to Top Dead Center? Will it still lock it even without it being top dead center?

Here is a write up, but it tells me to buy 200 bucks worth of specialized tools to do the job. With my car being an automatic and already having 19mm to turn the crankshaft pulley, I think I'm ok just buying the cam and crank locks. Thoughts?
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/i...thout-timing-belt-replacement-tdi-alh-engine/

Also, I'm still not sure I dropped the shim, is it possible to open up the injector pump, back out the head and check or maybe catch it if its just at and angle?

Wish I could afford a mechanic, but I'm tight on cash and feel I might mess something up again in this process as I've never messed with the timing belt...

Thanks again.

You can remove the pump. After the pump is fixed up, you will need to set the cam and crank to TDC, which is going to be interesting since they aren't there now, and without the pump you don't have a way of turning them both in correct synchronization to get them there easily.

The other problem you have is that you need to be able to lock the cam at TDC (need the tool) pin the pump at TDC (need the tool) and then be able to observe the crank is at TDC through the window at the bell housing.

I did this when I replaced my valve stem seals, because I had to rotate the crank to get the other pair of pistons to their TDC. (At TDC, 1 and 4 are at the top, then you rotate 90* to get 2 & 3 to the top.) Then, with the cam out and all valves shut, the crank is set to TDC, and I set the cam in place also at TDC, which is doable because I have the tools.

On reassembly: without the tools, I think there is a way to get things close. What you'd do is pin the pump at its TDC. Then, with a short handled wrench (short handle so you won't apply much torque) on the crank nut to turn the crank, you would turn the crank a little, till it hung up, then turn the cam a little, and go back and forth until you see that the crank is at TDC, then rock the cam with a straight edge to see when it is at TDC. Then you'd install the pump.

It might not work and would be tedious at best. Without the tools, you don't have a good way of getting the fine adjustment to having the cam and crank exactly agreeing with each other and then dialing in the pump.

I don't know what else to say. You need a friend with the tools, or you need to rent them, to make sure things are right.

PH

Or you can make your own tools. This link has dimensions for the minimum: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=148798

I'd do a "mark and pray" ........... then, remove the IP, correct the problem and then install the IP. Once it is installed, using the marks you made, you can rotate the engine to line up all the Factory Marks..... that's confirmation.

However, on the other hand, I'd attempt to repair/correct the issue without removing the IP. I had to remove the head on the IP in my ALH Vanagon due to the Big O-ring not peeling out! I did the procedure without removing the IP......... works!

You can go to my photo gallery and see the pics. And, I did watch RunOnBeer's YouTube. Vaseline or grease will hold the shim in place.....

Wow you guys are great! Thanks for taking the time on this.

AndyBees, using grease is a great idea! I'd like to see your photo gallery, but can't find it anywhere... I checked your profile pretty good... Where can I see it?

Powder Hound, Didn't know I could rent these tools. Do I try the VW service center or what?

Thank you!

Here is a link to all of the pics I took when doing the head O-ring install:

http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=90461&title=alh-tdi-ip-re-seal&cat=5690

Below are a few pics from the selection (Any comments are at top of the pics).

Below, is illustrative of emphasizing the need to be clean. Pressure wash the engine, use a cleaner such as brake clean, and then blow off with compressed air (repeat if you feel necessary)



Below you can see I used black duct tape to wrap the head... the O-ring is visible.



Top of IP laid back out of the way





Below is the bottom side of the Quantity Adjuster. The "motor rod" is the thingy sticking down.



Below, sucking the fuel out of the pump body



Below, dead center, you can see the hole that the "motor rod" of the Quantity Adjuster goes into.



Below, is a close-up so you can see the hole where the motor rod goes. This very important as you go back together....




Below, you can see that the pump body is covered and the head is ready to be pulled out....




Below, the IP head is in a Vice so I can clean the O-ring out of the sealing groove. Also, you can see the hole that the "motor rod" goes into.


I'll add the pics showing the head and other parts the next post...

Continued ......

Below, right there on top is the shim ......... notice the Vaseline!



Below, looking inside the Injector Pump body ........... that's a fruit fly laying there at about 6:30



Below, the shim can be seen dead center.........



Below, parts 1 and 3 thru 9 is what goes back inside the Injection Pump body.



Below, look close and you can see a Paper Clip holding the Yoke, Cam Plate and Rollers in place...


Below, is a close-up of the pump body ready for the pump head to be installed.... Paper Clip holding the Cam Plate...



Below, finally, you can see that the pump head has been installed,,, The Paper Clip is still holding the Cam Plate but is ready to be removed.




Below,,,,,,,,,,, all back together and ready to bled the injector lines ........ I bled two at a time!



Everything else is just reversal of removal..... but make sure the "motor rod" goes in that hole!


I hope this helps.

The procedure can be seen here with a little more explanation as I did it in my Vanagon.

Look at post #770 and then scroll down to post #777 for more details and pics. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=276798&page=52

I've never seen that done before, thanks for this.

I use some long abrasive pipe cleaners to clean out the head o-ring groove before installing the new one. Then I flush it clear with Brakleen. I have not had a problem so far doing this but I've only done about a dozen reseals.

Hey AndyBees,

Thank you soooo much for posting this! Been under the weather so just got around to trying this last night and today. I got something wrong though and after getting it back together and being able to turn the engine. I went ahead and tried to fire her up and well I had no fuel coming out of the injector lines.... So I thought something must be wrong and went back in to look again and well.....I shredded the Yoke....Its in about 7 pieces now....The first time I took the pump head out I just held on to the cam plate and everything behind it and just made sure the shim was in place. I got it to turn by hand with it back together so I thought I was ok. But I must of shredded the yoke before I ever fully took out the pump head and just didn't notice since I didn't look behind the cam plate the first time....

Anyways I'm off to try to find the Yoke. Hopefully my local vw dealer has it already in stock and I can come back smiling tomorrow.

Again Thank You for helping me out on this! I felt alot better about taking the pump head out once I saw your pic of the inside of the pump. Guess I should of taken it all out though....Ya live ya learn.

Take Care.

"The South" is a big place, care to narrow it down within 500 square miles or so ?

AndyBees, again thank you for your post. Last night, I replaced the head seal, the runsonbeer method, for the second time, and it's still leaking. Tonight, I'll try your way, completely removing the pump head, as I suspect that there must be something on the bottom of the seal groove that I just can't see, causing the o-ring to get damaged as it goes into the housing.

Once the pump head was removed, why did you remove the ramp plate and other bits further inside the pump? I was thinking I'd just set up the paper clip retainer on those parts as took the head out. Am I missing something?

That stuff fell out as I removed the head. So, I had no other choice .......... then went exploring! Yes, the Paper Clip should hold everything in place..

Be assured, the shim will fall off. Just use some grease to keep it in place. In my pic, I think the shim is actually not on there. It is just greased up for the shim!

Hey Andy, I replaced the pump head seal your way, and it worked! That is definitely the way I would do it again. It's a little more work than the runsonbeer way, but to me more straightforward. I owe you a beer!