Replacment for displacment!!!!!

That motor is sick, ultimate build

I had the car out at the drag strip last weekend however I was only able warm up the engine before this happened...





All of these items ended up in either the exhaust manifold or turbo.

At this point I really felt like giving up on the project but 2 days later I was looking for turbo's.

Looks like the exhaust valve seat fell out.Any ideas on how to keep valve seats in are welcome.

The night before the dragstrip I was watching the tach read 9500 rpm with roughly 35* inj pump timing during a backyard burnout.

So moving forward I have also decided to look for a set of BD twin turbo's to put on my engine.They are designed to make 425hp-575hp on a 5.9L diesel engine.

http://www.dieselperformance.com/index.php/product/index/4P

Damn son!!

Tight press fit's all I've ever heard of, some people use loctite bearing mount. You've got that iron head, too...

Maybe try tinning the holes in the head and the hard seat inserts with silver solder. Do the normal hot head, cold seat install of the seats, then once they're in there heat the whole shebang up hot to braze the two tinned surfaces together.
Even if it gets hotter than the brazing rod's melting point it'll still be transferring heat from the seat to the head better.

If the seat gets as hot as silver melting point I think you have different things to worry about

Rub87 said:

If the seat gets as hot as silver melting point I think you have different things to worry about

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That's my thinking, but he was just talking about melting his exhaust valve guides earlier!

Thanks for the input.We might still pin the seats to the head.Water injection will probably be needed to keep egt's under control.I have talked to Hypermax months about making me a kit.It would be a mechanical pump and have 5 water nozzles.One nozzle per intake runner and 1 nozzle for between stage boost.

Why did you use seats? Wouldn't the iron head be adequate on its own?

2footbraker said:

Why did you use seats? Wouldn't the iron head be adequate on its own?

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We didn't think of this option back then.It would work although the valve seating area might have to be treated to take the temp,I'm not sure.

Keeping EGT's within reasonable limits would likely solve our problem.EGT's were at 2350*F for a while .

Toasty hehe

2footbraker said:

Why did you use seats? Wouldn't the iron head be adequate on its own?

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IIRC the old 6.9 int'l IDI had induction hardened iron valve seats on the intake and normal hardened inserts on the exhaust side. Machine shop guy did a TON of heads for the school bus company (so international spec engines rather than ford spec, meaning they're governed to 2800 RPM rather than 3400) Said the heads'd crack between the valves then lose compression. Usually burnt the intake valve a little bit, too. He'd have to cut the hardened seats out for inserts, then they'd hold compression again.

Maybe leaving the iron soft'd remedy the cracking. The valves would slowly sink in a bit no doubt, but I don't think that this engine sees very many miles.

How much is it to get an iron head cast? Did you get water passages in there? I searched for a thread, but didn't find anything.

We did manage to produce some coolant passages in the head.Luckily we didn't drill into anything too important.We did break through into the inj bore's but sleeved them to correct the the fault.

The cooling system flows plenty with the electric water pump and with the MK3 fans on HI it takes no time to bring the engine down to operating temp after a hard run !

andy2 said:

We did manage to produce some coolant passages in the head.Luckily we didn't drill into anything too important.We did break through into the inj bore's but sleeved them to correct the the fault.

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Ah, so the casting's more a backyard sorta thing?
That's pretty cool, not many people cast to begin with, and casting ferrous metals is uncommon within that already uncommon subset.

My casting abilities begin with plaster, move onto wax, then end at lead. Aluminum and brass would be pretty handy, just haven't yet had the proper impetus to get into it.

ETA: On the water passages, goes to show how little heat is in the head of a direct injection diesel. I suppose my comparison to an IDI earlier in the valve seat discussion is a bit flawed. Lot more heat in an IDI head.

Laying in bed last night I remembered beryllium copper.

Guys use it for valve seats on crazy high performance engines. It's a ton harder than normal copper (they make non-sparking chisels out of the stuff) and it still wicks heat around like normal copper.

Might be something to look into, probably cool your exhaust valves down some, as well.

Any updates? Really interesting build

Thanks, We have been working hard to get good results but have come up short this year so far.

We still have a fueling issue and are unsure if our 95gph lift pump is keeping up.The big 13mm p3000 has been on and off the engine a couple times and I think we have it sorted out.

The BD s300 compounds have been awesome.So much better than anything in the past.I managed a 1.68 60ft time without trying too hard or breaking also I don't even bother warming up the tires anymore (no burnout).

I only managed a 12.4 second run with fueling issues last weekend. Everything is holding well and no leaks.


We'll keep plugging away at this project as long as we can.Sure would be nice to get into the 10.5 second range eventually.The 60ft time suggests that it might be possible ?

Here is a random test video if you can view it,

http://vid1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag363/dieseldiy/MOV01525_zpsang8rmhh.mp4

You got fuel enough nice to see it running again

I made a 10.1 with a 1.7 60ft so i see no reason why you cant if it has 450+hp like we had at that time.

With some NOS your car would go wild!!!

I'll have it back at the track soon to see if we can get the issue resolved with some changes made.I Will never use NOS on this engine I'm just stuck on making power using diesel fuel only and quite possibly water injection.

I have used NOS on my old 1.6td long ago when another vw diesel guy tried to get me hook on the stuff .I'm not against it I just don't care to use it.

Below are some pics of the revised Diamond pistons with piston cooling jet cut outs.I almost didn't get these pistons as they were signed for but not received.I was out of luck and would need to order another set of pistons.I was able to view the signature online and confirmed that there was no one at home on the date and time of delivery.

After a month and a bit I decided to try and find the pistons and went into full on detective mode.I went through the phone book calling people with the same last name in my town etc..I did some google searching and found that this wasn't uncommon to find stuff the next road over at the same street number.

I called people but didn't get anywhere.I then went up and down my road and stopped 2 doors down from home and had a gut feeling that my pistons were on the front door steps.I went through knee deep snow down the driveway and climbed the steps to see a piece of cardboard sticking out of the snow covered steps.The driver had dropped them off at 2571 not 2591.Luckily they were double boxed and no harm was done.The Fedex driver signed for them being delivered but left them 2 doors down and there was nobody living there.I almost had to buy another set of new pistons due to this mistake by the Fedex driver !

What pistons are those? Do they make them for an ALH?

Those are some hefty slugs and rods. How much tungsten's stuffed into the crank counterweights to balance it out?

Nice work mate what cam you're running ?

Diamond pistons made them for us and they were based off an ALH piston.We sent them prototypes years ago and now sent one back showing changes like deeper valve reliefs and cooling jet cutouts.The total seal rings that they supplied have also been changed up.I can't recall what the change was but it was something to do with the gapless ring.

The rods were made by Cunningham and we also sent them and a mocked up rod showing the safe maximum size that the rod could be made before hitting the block.

Dad roughed out a steel ALH cam and then sent it to Geoff at Colt cams.We had it hardened when it got back.

The crankshaft is 100% unmodified and we didn't bother to have it balanced.

[486] said:

Those are some hefty slugs and rods. How much tungsten's stuffed into the crank counterweights to balance it out?

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On an inline engine, to balance it out all you do is weigh match rods and pistons then zero balance crank with harmonic balancer and flywheel bolted on. Much easier than a V engine and bob weights.

Awesome project Andy! One of these days I want to see it in person!

Andy, have you considered swapping into a mk1 chassis? Just wondering if it would improve times or maybe wheel spin would be worsened in a lighter car?

Whitbread said:

Awesome project Andy! One of these days I want to see it in person!

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Thanks Matt.I sure hope I can get it working well enough to make it worth while bringing to a TDIfest,Waterfest or some diesel truck event like Scheid Diesel Extravangza.A couple of local Canadian pullers I know went to Scheid's this year.I've been there twice and would love to get the car down there working well.I get the feeling that the 02A is running on borrowed time and that I should have an 02M in there.

2footbraker said:

Andy, have you considered swapping into a mk1 chassis? Just wondering if it would improve times or maybe wheel spin would be worsened in a lighter car?

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I have considered an mk2 golf however just kept running into the issue of needing the engine to preform better and better first.Also there were some other "heavy" MK3 golf gassers that are quick.I'd rather attempt to keep up with them.

We didn't intend on going to the dragstrip originally.It was simply the easiest way of testing out the engine changes that were made.

andy2 said:

I get the feeling that the 02A is running on borrowed time and that I should have an 02M in there.

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Since you already have a diff, clutch, and axles for the 02a set up, I'd just go to a gforce gear set with the ap tuning 5th gear cuff and steel pinion brace. Or use the sqs dog gears if they're ever available. An 02m swap will be alot of work, $$, and added weight. For a drag car I don't see it making much sense unless you're starting from scratch.

Whitbread said:

Since you already have a diff, clutch, and axles for the 02a set up, I'd just go to a gforce gear set with the ap tuning 5th gear cuff and steel pinion brace. Or use the sqs dog gears if they're ever available. An 02m swap will be alot of work, $$, and added weight. For a drag car I don't see it making much sense unless you're starting from scratch.

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I've wondered why most of the aftermarket dog clutch gearsets reuse the stock gears, so much more room to run a wider face width, and you're freed to run a straighter helix angle along with a nice beefy stub tooth form, to put less load on the case, and for stronger teeth, respectively.

ETA: he's mentioned running a brace where fifth went, so I think it's pretty safe to assume that his box is built to the hilt.

Whitbread said:

Since you already have a diff, clutch, and axles for the 02a set up, I'd just go to a gforce gear set with the ap tuning 5th gear cuff and steel pinion brace. Or use the sqs dog gears if they're ever available. An 02m swap will be alot of work, $$, and added weight. For a drag car I don't see it making much sense unless you're starting from scratch.

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Thanks for your input.I'll likely stick with the 02a then and get gears if/when needed.Right now I know that 3rd gear syncro is toast however I won't pull the trans out until its either broken or we can get this engine to work better.

[486] said:

I've wondered why most of the aftermarket dog clutch gearsets reuse the stock gears, so much more room to run a wider face width, and you're freed to run a straighter helix angle along with a nice beefy stub tooth form, to put less load on the case, and for stronger teeth, respectively.

ETA: he's mentioned running a brace where fifth went, so I think it's pretty safe to assume that his box is built to the hilt.

Click to expand...

Yes it has a pinion brace,5th gear brace and an external brace around the diff.Also still running stock vr6 axles which can be upgraded to aftermarket ones.

Been a long time since waterfest. Nice to see you still moving forward.....