Some new problems to watch out for

ymz

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 12, 2003
Location
Between Toronto & Montreal
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI Wagon, 2003 Jetta TDI Wagon
I have a metalnerds crank lock. Do I need a new seal ? Will get new bolts but which ones ?
Are you talking about the MN4004 Crank Lock (lightweight unit, used by some to keep the crank sprocket from moving during a timing belt change) or the Crank Yank (NuYANK) - very heavy duty tool for holding the sprocket steady during the very high torque turns needed to loosen or tighten the 12-point bolt holding the sprocket onto the crankshaft? The bolt is p/n 06A105229... yes, a new seal will be good to get... p/n 038 103 085 E for the newer "teflon" type... some people prefer the older model with a spring...

Yuri
 

hgsmith

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2008
Location
TAFT, TN
TDI
2003 Jetta
Oh ok. No I have the crank lock not the tool. So I need the yank crank tool or I can block the counter weight with wood. Thanks for the clarification.
 

TonyJetta

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Sep 15, 2005
Location
Tucson, Az
TDI
'15 Jetta TDI SE / '06 Jetta TDI DSG Pkg0 / '96 Passat TDI
Sometimes the crank yank tool is needed for the removal and install of the crank bolt.
Other times, the old bolt is loose and nothing special is needed to remove the bolt.
Some make their own tool out of angle iron. I wouldn't use less than 1/4" thick angle for strength.

Tony
Sent from my e-diesel fleet
 

wwshaw1

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2013
Location
New England
TDI
2005 Passat wagon
Alternator removal

Many thanks, pulley replaced on alternator and problem solved! Also, after reading these posts, I expected to pay close to $100 for a new pulley but went to an alternator shop and he got one for $48!
Once again, thanks for the great information that this site puts out!
 

spoilsport

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 3, 1999
Location
Houston TX
TDI
2000 Golf GLS Silver (Sold). 2005 Jetta TDI Wagon Tiptronic (daughter's)
It would be nice to get a revised list of cheap wheels 7 years later. FWIW, I purchased a 94 Prizm with the 4A-FE and it's been cheap to own, but alas someone has smashed up the door and now parts are getting expensive to find. I'm looking at 2002-2005 Honda Civics and similar. Any thoughts?;)


Well first, if NOT spending money is the highest priority, NEVER buy a new car, and look at historically GOOD vehicles with which to draw on your used vehicle purchase. With that said, I feel that the cheapest to operate cars in Volkswagen, Toyota, and Honda camps have already come and gone.
For Volkswagen I'd say the A2 platform cars, in particular the German-built ones since back then there were issues with US and Mexican built cars (which is no longer the case). These cars are simple, tough, reliable, easy to service, and parts are easily obtained at a reasonable cost. Since VAG built these cars for so long and marketed them globally, and STILL continues to build an updated A2 Jetta in China, support for these cars will be around for a long time.
For Toyota, the second generation Camry with the 3S-FE 2.0L 4 cylinder or any 4A-FE equipped Corolla ('90 through '97) would be my top picks. Only real problem with those cars is rust, but since both were HUGE sellers in their day you can still find solid examples out there for a reasonable price. They are super reliable, easy to service, and even if you refuse to use both feet to drive still offer a good long-lasting autobox.
For Honda, any fuel-injected Civic pre '96 will be a good reliable car, and the lesser models with a 5 speed can get TDI-rivaling fuel economy to boot. These also offer a nice sporty drive, surprisingly roomy behind the wheel which is something many Asian cars lack, and the enormous sales mean you can easily find them. Rust, as usual, is always an issue.
 
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