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Upgrades (non TDI Engine related) The place of handling, lighting and other upgrades that do not relate to the performance or economy of the TDI engine. In other words upgrades to your TDI that don't fit into TDI Fuel Economy & TDI Engine Enhancements.Please note the Performance Disclaimer

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Old April 21st, 2009, 15:56   #1081
A_Shifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoolAirVw
I got those parts too. I hope the other peice is just a mistake.

I'm hoping to get the trans in tomorrow night. Waiting on fork, and mount bracket.
When I put mine together tomorrow morning, it won't have one of those either...I think they goofed, CoolAir...hopefully just threw in an extra part.

Alpha: Just voted. Least I can do. Offer stands for lunch and cocktails if you ever get up this way.

BB: My frustration was misdirected. Sorry man. And good luck with the server.
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Old April 22nd, 2009, 23:42   #1082
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WooHoo! 5 speeds of fun!
And more fun tomorrow!...Fun of the electrical variety.
I'm going to ask you guys for some help. Any more details now would constitute drinking and posting, but I'll be up bright and early, VAG-COM in hand.
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Old April 23rd, 2009, 08:07   #1083
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Wasn't as hard as you thought... was it?
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Old April 23rd, 2009, 08:40   #1084
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alphaseinor
Wasn't as hard as you thought... was it?
For all the cussing at nuts and bolts it was actually pretty easy, thanks to you pioneers.
The electrical sh#!'s gonna be a challenge. Bentley and I are going to be good friends.

Brake lights on at all times when battery connected. No reverse lights.
I don't know what all the 175 did but I betcha the two wires I butt spliced are sending constant power to the brake lights.
No cruise, and that's probably (hopefully) the car thinking I'm on the brakes.
But the clutch safety works.

Realize it's off topic, but the turbo sounds awesome with about 2 feet of 2.5" downpipe (and nothing else for now). Would like to keep as much turbin-osity and eliminate as much of the tractor factor from the exhaust note as possible (Aero Turbine muffler/resonator? Cherry bomb?). Reading the threads but would like suggestions via PM if you guys have any to offer.
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Old April 23rd, 2009, 09:53   #1085
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my vote is for no resonators or mufflers... it doesn't resonate in the cabin when you drive on the highway

So we've got the following working:
Clutch cancel

And the following not working:
Cruise
Reverse lights

And an unintended side effect:
brake lights are on.

Let me start with cruise... check (IIRC) block 4 or block 6 (can't remember) there should be a binary number for your cruise function, if you step on the brakes, you should have the 1's turn to 0's or vice versa (can't remember which... lol) and if you hit different cruise buttons it should change the value as well... see if the first bit changes with the clutch depressed (should be a 1 and change to a 0 IIRC)

If that works, then we've got the cruise pedal up and running.

The reverse lights are literally voltage to the switch and the switch leads to the reverse lights. inside the 175 relay that's the blue/black wire, we're looking for the wire that comes from the old TR sensor that leads to the 175 relay so we can jump between these two...
make sure you've got +12 at the switch, and if you jump the connector that the reverse lights go on... if that's the case then you've got a bad switch... if not, you've got incorrectly configured wiring... possibly turning on the brake lights?

let me know, and I'll see if I can keep an internet connection ready for later tonight.
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Old April 23rd, 2009, 13:24   #1086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A_Shifter
Post 113 by chirorob.
Exactly the same color combination I have.

GdB's wiring instructions say that post 99.5 models will have a grey & red wire instead of this yellow & blue wire. Mine is an '02 with a yellow & blue wire instead. Thing that concerns me is that, under the dash, as per instructions, I spliced the grey & red wire (terminal#3) with the black & blue wire (termninal #4). Wondering if I should have used the yellow and blue wire (terminal #9 (which was supposed to be a yellow & green wire)) instead?
I hope I'm not the first to run into this.
This is pertinient to the reverse lights. (Post 1056 has a pic for reference)

My range connector looked EXACTLY like chirorob's: exact colors in exactly the same places, not just the two being spliced, mind you. So I figgered I'd be good to go doing what he did...Unfortunately, now that it no workie, I find that both of these (Black/Green and Yellow/Blue) are running 12V with the ign on, so I have power going to both sides of the switch at all times. Wonder where else there's power going that it's not supposed to? I don't think it's the brakes, because the ign does not have to be on for the brake lights to be on.

I did check the reverse switch, and there is continuity when in reverse only so it should be good.
So...since the Yellow/Blue wire is not correct, I have these to choose from;
Grey/Black, Brown, Purple/Black, Red/Yellow. The only one of these that was found on the 175 was Brown, and it went to the upper (grey) clutch switch (which is the Starter interlock, which is working correctly.)

Hope I didn't lose you, Alpha...
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Old April 23rd, 2009, 13:29   #1087
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break out the continuity meter...
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Old April 23rd, 2009, 13:41   #1088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alphaseinor
my vote is for no resonators or mufflers... it doesn't resonate in the cabin when you drive on the highway

So we've got the following working:
Clutch cancel

And the following not working:
Cruise
Reverse lights

And an unintended side effect:
brake lights are on.

Let me start with cruise... check (IIRC) block 4 or block 6 (can't remember) there should be a binary number for your cruise function, if you step on the brakes, you should have the 1's turn to 0's or vice versa (can't remember which... lol) and if you hit different cruise buttons it should change the value as well... see if the first bit changes with the clutch depressed (should be a 1 and change to a 0 IIRC)

If that works, then we've got the cruise pedal up and running.

The reverse lights are literally voltage to the switch and the switch leads to the reverse lights. inside the 175 relay that's the blue/black wire, we're looking for the wire that comes from the old TR sensor that leads to the 175 relay so we can jump between these two...
make sure you've got +12 at the switch, and if you jump the connector that the reverse lights go on... if that's the case then you've got a bad switch... if not, you've got incorrectly configured wiring... possibly turning on the brake lights?

let me know, and I'll see if I can keep an internet connection ready for later tonight.
I broke these up since there are multiple issues.

Now for the cruise (which may fix itself once the constant brake light debacle clears up.)
I was able to recode the engine to 00002, but still have PRND321 on the dash.
I'm a rookie with VAG-COM, but here's what I did:
01 Engine> Advanced Blocks> checked both Cruise Control and Cruise System. Cruise Control had a binary code that changed with steering wheel inputs, and also when I plugged in/unplugged the brake switch, but no change with clutch pedal.
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Old April 23rd, 2009, 13:42   #1089
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alphaseinor
break out the continuity meter...
Got it.
And some light reading in the ol' Bentley.
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Last edited by A_Shifter; April 23rd, 2009 at 13:46.
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Old April 23rd, 2009, 14:29   #1090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A_Shifter
So...since the Yellow/Blue wire is not correct, I have these to choose from;
Grey/Black, Brown, Purple/Black, Red/Yellow. The only one of these that was found on the 175 was Brown, and it went to the upper (grey) clutch switch (which is the Starter interlock, which is working correctly.)
Opened up old, cut TR switch wires (above) and ran power to each of them in hopes of seeing reverse lights, but alas, none.
Bentley schematics might as well be written in Mandarin. Anyone speak Mandarin?
Ich spreche weniger (schlechter) Deutsch, aber es hilft mich nicht.
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Last edited by A_Shifter; April 23rd, 2009 at 14:43.
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Old April 23rd, 2009, 15:33   #1091
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Basic facts on Bentley schematics:
If you look at the Bentley, they have different schematics for different circuits.

if you follow a harness line, and it ends in a number, you need to look at the bottom of the bentley page for the line of numbers, go forward or backwards until you see the number and that's where that wire went.

You are looking for the cruise control pedal and brake pedal sensors (there's a few), can't remember the pedal designation right now... they start with F

oh and it's measuring block 6

Group 006 (test with ignition switch on)
Speed
Brake pedal monitor
Cruise control system
Cruise control system (indicates if activated, 0 = activated but switched off, 1 = activated, swtiched on, 255 = not activated)
Cruise control system left digit: Clutch switch closed (clutch not depressed) = 0, 1 = clutch depressed
Cruise control system middle digit: CC/DFI brake pedal switch open (brake pedal depressed) = 1, 0 = pedal not depressed
Cruise control system right digit: brake light switch depressed pedal = 1, not depressed = 0
Right cruise control system 6 digit display has a 1, left to right, when:
Clutch operated
Brake pedal operated
Resume speed operated on the switch
Acceleration operated on the switch
Cruise control and memory switched off
Cruise controll system switched on
from this page: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=26762
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Old April 23rd, 2009, 18:45   #1092
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so, it should look something like this with clutch "in"
1000 00001

and with the clutch pedal "out"
1100 10001

with the brakes on
1011 01001

clutch out and brakes on
1111 11001
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Old April 23rd, 2009, 18:48   #1093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A_Shifter
Alpha: Just voted. Least I can do. Offer stands for lunch and cocktails if you ever get up this way.
Gonna have to take you up on that offer some day...
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Old April 24th, 2009, 07:22   #1094
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Battery and airbox are back out, so I'm putting VAG COM and Cruise lower on the priority list unless you think I should do otherwise, Alpha...I just want to be able to drive it with legal lighting for now.

I think the problem lies with wiring, so I've retraced my steps with GdB's instructions, and thinking the color differences I mentioned near the beginning of the project are significant here (Steps 4, 6, 6a and 11). I wrote this in parallel with the steps in the instructions if you don't mind following along.

1. Pulled 175 relay
2. Pulled the socket
CRUISE CONTROL HOOKUP
3. Cut the GREEN/BLACK wire from pin #5 and connected it to the lower (BLACK) clutch switch.
4. There was no YELLOW/GREEN wire at pin #9, or anywhere else on the socket, but there WAS a YELLOW/BLUE wire at pin #9, so I treated it like it was the YELLOW/GREEN wire and connected it to the clutch switch. I now think this was a mistake.
5. Removed TCU & disconnected plug
6. Found (continuity check...) and CUT the same YELLOW/BLUE wire at the TCU connector.
6a. Found a YELLOW/RED wire on the TCU which had continuity with pin #19's YELLOW/RED wire. I cut it at the TCU side and connected it to the YELLOW/BLUE wire (which was supposed to be YELLOW/GREEN).
7. Removed ECU pin #19 and pin #66 and put pin #19 with the YELLOW/RED wire attached into the empty hole #66.
REVERSE LIGHTS
8. Cut the BLACK/BLUE wire (too damn close) at pin #4. (Repair described in post 1055)
9. Cut the GREY/RED wire from pin #3
10. Connected to the BLACK/BLUE wire.
11. Looked for but could not find the GREY/RED wire at the #8 pin on the TR plug. But I did find the YELLOW/BLUE wire which had continuity to both the 175 socket and the one at the TCU. I also found a picture of EXACTLY the same color wires from another successful swapper... so I connected the YELLOW/BLUE wire to > next step
12. The GREEN/BLACK wire which I then connected to the reverse switch which has since been tested and is deemed in working order.
STARTER INTERLOCK
13. Cut the BROWN wire from pin#7 at the 175 socket and connected it to the upper (GREY) clutch switch.
14. Connected the BLACK/BLUE wire at pin #4 on the 175 socket to the upper (GREY) clutch switch.
FINISH
15. Then I replaced the 175 relay with a 53 relay.
16. Then I recoded the ECU with VAG COM - replaced the 1 with a 2.

The YELLOW/BLUE has power when the key is on. So does the GREEN/BLACK wire, so that makes two wires with power going to the two pole reverse light switch. That's why I think there's a problem with the YELLOW/BLUE wire.

So here's what I'm left with on the 53 relay
Pin #87 has a heavy RED wire
Pin #86 has a BLACK/BLUE wire (that goes to the upper (GREY) clutch switch)
Pin #85 has two RED/BLACK wires
Pin #30 has a single RED wire
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Old April 24th, 2009, 07:39   #1095
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The specific VAG-COM info is appreciated and it will come in handy once I get the other stuff taken care of.
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