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Old January 23rd, 2019, 12:06   #1
ratkc135
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Default Starter & Cables

My starter has struggled some so far this winter...taking 7-10 seconds to start when it was around 5-8 degrees. Battery checks OK...not great...but descent.

So I don't get stranded (I'm an airline pilot that leaves this car in employee parking lot) I think I may just replace battery, starter and the cables (ground, battery to ALT, etc). Wanted to see if anyone has had good luck with this kit I found to replace the wiring:

http://innovativewiring.com/?page_id=5332

If you don't like this kit...any other kits out there? I could always buy wire..and make them...but a kit saves me some time. If you all like this kit...any idea what length cable I need? It has I think at least 3 options.


As well as this starter:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00T689U...v_ov_lig_dp_it

Good reviews on amazon and for $68. Then what I'll do is rebuild the OE starter and have that as a backup...then I can always have a rebuilt one on hand.

Is it necessary to do the wiring? Probably not...I read that corrosion can cause some starting issues as well as battery and/or starter....but if I'm going to remove battery to get to starter...why not get some new cables in there..then finish off with a new battery. That way my starter/battery/cables are good to go for another 17+ years...lol.
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Last edited by ratkc135; January 23rd, 2019 at 19:03.
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Old January 23rd, 2019, 12:55   #2
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Your parts list is as follows

Harness $155
Battery $120 and up
POS amazon alternator $68
Maybe a cheap starter 50 to 75
Now your in it 400 in parts. How about doing some testing and see what it needs. Your said you'd rebuild parts to have on the shelf. Why not just rebuild them and stick them back in.

On the alternator here's a reman bosch for $179.
https://www.metalmanparts.com/produc...&categoryId=38

I understand you have the $$ to shoot the parts cannon at it but what would you learn? It might be satisfying to diagnose and repair the first time. Buying cheap components your going to get good at changing them.

Test first repair or replace second.
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Old January 23rd, 2019, 13:02   #3
BobnOH
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Not that I'm against throwing parts at it, you need reliability, but all those components can be tested. Diesels like strong batteries, some have had the cable to the alternator corrode inside the sheath as well as bad connects. Get a real new or certified rebuilt Bosch alternator if you need one.
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Old January 23rd, 2019, 18:54   #4
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The second link is to an Amazon Starter.. not an alternator!
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Old January 23rd, 2019, 19:04   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyBees View Post
The second link is to an Amazon Starter.. not an alternator!


That was a typo. Fixed now. I meant starter.



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Old January 23rd, 2019, 19:49   #6
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So here's a starter, but it's the same idea. Test it and change it once.

https://www.metalmanparts.com/product.sc?productId=654
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Old January 23rd, 2019, 20:06   #7
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Like the others have said. I recommend a new battery AGM technology. If your cables arenít very corroded Iíd leave those alone. If anything they typically just need a cleaning at ends, and a simple ohm meter can tell you whether there is too much resistance. But like the others have said itís likely just your battery. Diesel vehicles really like good strong batteries.


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Old January 23rd, 2019, 21:28   #8
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AS others have said, if your car did not come from the factory with an AGM battery, don't buy one. Yes, I'm just repeating what old-timers here have said, but these guys are engineers and highly experienced daily mechanics.
As for a starter motor, a reman BOSCH is your best bet.
If I was having the symptoms ratkc135 is having, I'd just slap in a new starter and see if the problem went away. I'd baby along the battery and while I would inspect the cables, I wouldn't replace until they show signs of corrosion. Corrosion doesn't start deep inside the cable. You'll see it at the ends well before it starts interfering with operation.
ratkc135,
Get a BOSCH reman, and take your old one someplace good that rebuilds them all day. Bam. You're set.
EDIT: and if you're at all worried about your battery, get a nice 94R sized replacement. Dealerships should have good prices.
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Old January 23rd, 2019, 22:58   #9
ratkc135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drucifer View Post
Your parts list is as follows

Harness $155
Battery $120 and up
POS amazon alternator $68
Maybe a cheap starter 50 to 75
Now your in it 400 in parts. How about doing some testing and see what it needs. Your said you'd rebuild parts to have on the shelf. Why not just rebuild them and stick them back in.

On the alternator here's a reman bosch for $179.
https://www.metalmanparts.com/produc...&categoryId=38

I understand you have the $$ to shoot the parts cannon at it but what would you learn? It might be satisfying to diagnose and repair the first time. Buying cheap components your going to get good at changing them.

Test first repair or replace second.


My thought process was I remove battery, battery box and most of the wires to get to starter...I could swap battery and cables at same time. I always have bad luck so I figure Murphyís law strikes and a few months after starter...battery dies...few months later I have wiring issues. Lol. My issue with taking out starter and rebuilding that one; its my daily driver and I suppose I could do it all on a weekend but with it being in the teens I wanted to be able to swap it out and be done and not chance having it disabled for work come Monday. Or risk getting stranded after it sits in airport employee parking when I canít start it.

Seems to me for a core charge it would be worth just having a second starter..then I could rebuild that one taking my time. Iíve watched some video on how to rebuild and it doesnít seem too tough...or as was mentioned earlier I take it somewhere that does it everyday.

As mentioned above I can just inspect the cables and use contact cleaner and sandpaper to clean those up. The car spent 90% of its life in AZ so I would doubt the cables are an issue. So that saves me $155+. But I donít know what else it would be besides battery or starter that is causing it to take 10 seconds to start when itís 8-10 degrees. Iíve noticed it getting worse in the 2 years Iíve had it. Oreillys said battery wasnít real strong (based on CCAs) but itís ďfineĒ. Stray led me to believe itís a starter issue.

Is there a way to test the starter? I read you can read starter rpm in VCDS (which I have). But Iíd have to do that when itís cold...and even then it could be the battery causing that too no? Iím also going to use the trick I found that I can add a few seconds to glowplug time in VCDS. No codes so I think all my GPs are working.




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Old January 23rd, 2019, 23:21   #10
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So in this case I would pay $92.40 more to keep my old one. Well less than that as Iíd have to pay to ship it.

$268.87 total

Iíd have to shop around to see if I could find better.

I read VW also used/uses valeo starters? Bosch is better and the way to go?



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Old January 24th, 2019, 00:30   #11
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I understand about needing your car. Check out this thread for rebuilding.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=465001

There's nothing to say you can't buy an auto parts store starter or a junk yard starter and the rebuild kit. Test the new to you starter at the store. Yes even if it has a warranty. Purchase a rebuild kit. Remove starter and clean all your power and grounds. If the rebuild is a fail stick the jy starter in there or the parts store starter as you prefer. Jy starters 20 to 35. Even at the full serve jy. Or just pony up the cash for the factory rebuild and send them a jy one. If you wind up not using the parts store starter just return it.
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Old January 24th, 2019, 07:16   #12
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Always pull your park brake up before turning the ignition ON....... that procedure turns off the Day-time Running lights. Wait until the interior light goes off too. I think it stays on for a few seconds even if the key is inserted and turned on.
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Old January 24th, 2019, 08:02   #13
ratkc135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyBees View Post
Always pull your park brake up before turning the ignition ON....... that procedure turns off the Day-time Running lights. Wait until the interior light goes off too. I think it stays on for a few seconds even if the key is inserted and turned on.


Oh yes always! I wait until the dinging is done which is after the GP/idiot light extinguishes. Iím gonna add a couple seconds via VCDS to help with a bit more GP time below 10F.




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Old January 24th, 2019, 08:05   #14
Mongler98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratkc135 View Post
My starter has struggled some so far this winter...taking 7-10 seconds to start when it was around 5-8 degrees. Battery checks OK...not great...but descent.

So I don't get stranded (I'm an airline pilot that leaves this car in employee parking lot) I think I may just replace battery, starter and the cables (ground, battery to ALT, etc). Wanted to see if anyone has had good luck with this kit I found to replace the wiring:

http://innovativewiring.com/?page_id=5332

If you don't like this kit...any other kits out there? I could always buy wire..and make them...but a kit saves me some time. If you all like this kit...any idea what length cable I need? It has I think at least 3 options.


As well as this starter:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00T689U...v_ov_lig_dp_it

Good reviews on amazon and for $68. Then what I'll do is rebuild the OE starter and have that as a backup...then I can always have a rebuilt one on hand.

Is it necessary to do the wiring? Probably not...I read that corrosion can cause some starting issues as well as battery and/or starter....but if I'm going to remove battery to get to starter...why not get some new cables in there..then finish off with a new battery. That way my starter/battery/cables are good to go for another 17+ years...lol.
Replace battery if need be. How are you testing it?
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Old January 24th, 2019, 08:14   #15
ratkc135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongler98 View Post
Replace battery if need be. How are you testing it?


OíReillyís load test. Itís only when cold it struggles so it has to be battery and/or starter I assume...




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