Issue with dash cluster resetting???

Again night 3 of driving to work and back home. No issues trunk doesn't open with switch but no other issues it blows me away but I'm fine with that trade off. I'll gladly get out with the key to open the trunk of it solves the power resetting issue. I can't even make it happen doing the things I usually onow make it happen. So I'll keep everyone posted I'm guessing it's a shorted trunk switch.

You know, I'm genuinely curious about the trunk switch circuit and your issue. I'll check the schematics after work. I don't think they have anything in common, but so far it hasn't happened yet. Knock on wood.

All I know is I was having the issue everytime I got in the car constantly for about 15 mins then it would only happen when I used auto window switch. I mean it happened constantly everything would reset headlights and all. I got in it Saturday night and I went to put a piece of piping from my house water pump in the trunk to carry to Lowe's and noticed my trunk pop didn't work, it didn't mean much. Because of all the BS iv been dealing with electronically but I noticed no power reset and still no trunk but magically every thing else works. I can't explain it but I'm ok with it lol. I also replaced all my return lines for my injectors tonight had a bad leak and have been losing mpgs like it's going outta style. But anyways I'm still waiting for the issue to return...

And on a side note Nero if I ever get stationed in Oregon we're gonna have to get together and grab a couple beers.

Dear god my computer is frustrating me this morning.. Spent about 2 hours looking over the schematics to see what makes sense about the issue your having. I can tell you that I don't like VAG track style schematics. I'll stick to my Cummins ones thank you.


Anyhow. Fuse 4 on the fuse panel on top of the battery powers threaded terminal 30a. It also supplies constant power to the following:


12. Data Link Connector (DLC) power supply (7.5A).
13. Brake tail lights (10A).
15. Instrument cluster, transmission control module (TCM) (5A).
38. Central locking system (with power windows), luggage compartment light, remote/fuel tank door, motor to unlock rear lid (15A).

37. Terminal (86S) on radio, Instrument cluster (10A).
39. Emergency flashers (15A).
40. Dual tone horn (20A).
41. Cigarette lighter (15A).
42. Radio (25A).




So. Long story short, make sure the connections for that fuse and the ring terminal for the big red wire coming off of it are clean, and makes sure the 30a ring terminal is nice and clean under the dash. Or maybe you'll find one of them loose. Most of the listed circuits are stuff you're experiencing issues with, so it's what makes sense right now.


Here's the schematics I found most relevant.

By the way I'll totally take you up on that beer lol

So your saying the Fuse panel on top of the battery, Fuse number 4... I need to figure out which one is #4. And then the wire going out from that fuse goes to the 30A under the steering wheel. Basically the panel every one has been telling me to use for my gauge cluster in my other post? This makes a lotta sense because of a number of things a few that come to mind are 1) when first driving the car when the doors auto lock that would trigger the reset, 2) when using auto window up or down upon stopping the reset would occur, 3) the fact that sometimes when the reset issue would happen my radio would suck and not get signal at all and when the reset would happen my auto windows wouldn't work for awhile like a day or a hour and then reset would happen again and everything would go back to normal. As of today the problem still hasn't returned yet again no trunk pop switch still...... But again as I stated earlier I need to find out which fuse is number 4 and that it is in that battery box and then I think there's 2 30A wires under dash but I will attempt to tackle that tomorrow. Thanks man the wire diagram looks a little like spaghetti but I'm printing it out tonight.

It's the second one from the left, so second one away from the engine. Looking at this schematic that particular fuse wakes up a lot of modules, so it could be the root issue of your wiring snafu. One more thing you could check is that all the connectors are snug at the bulkhead connector under the cowl panel drivers side.

Any chance you can get your car scanned with someone with a VCDS?

I would add your CCM to the list of suspects to check


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I do have a guy that lives where I work that can do it problem is he said he doesn't know if it would pick up a intermittent issue like this. And thanks again Nero when we have the beers I'm buying lol

Powerstroke9773 said:

I mean it happened constantly everything would reset headlights and all.

Click to expand...

I think this has to be a power distribution issue.
The only other common point would be the heavy ground wire under the battery tray but I thought that was checked.

I agree and yes all grounds under battery have been checked I also have checked the fuse panel Nero recommended. Nothing so far I'm yet to pull the panels under the steering wheel to check the 30A wires until I have the ring connections needed for my gauge connections. But on a bright note another day with no issues. Drives likes a champ blowing boost and smoke everywhere with no power issues I don't get it but am definitely pleased. I really don't like having the problem just " Go Away on it's own" but it's nice not having my diva of a car reset the power anytime she gets upset. I have a wife I don't need my car to pull that s#$# on me too. On a really bright note fired up the powerstroke and ran her for about 20 minutes to keep the fuel flowing and charge the battery up during these frigid NC winter's. And again I'll say anybody has ever had this issue please comment I'll continue to troubleshoot once I have my connections to wire the gauge. Cheers everyone

Glad the gremlins are held at bay so far! Enjoy your ride

Update once again, hooked the gauge up properly ( thank you TDI club yet again) and checked those 30A wires under dash. Nothing... No trace of a issue but another day down driving through the biggest city within 100 miles from me and no issues. So I'm happy

Quick, go buy a lottery ticket! Lol

I'm telling ya man it blows me away. Still no electric trunk pop but that's it. Everything else is fine and works. I'm still trying to figure out posting pics here to no avail. I did get that gauge wired.properly to the yellow and black wire on that bus under the dash and the common ground and man it works perfectly now. While I was at it I installed the rivnuts and the DG skid plate tonight. I'm still looking for a new silicone intercooler boot and t bolt clamps as I'm constantly blowing my SMIC intake boot off. I was running boost around 26lbs tonight maxed it out (30) and blew the boot clean off again. Looked all over Greenville today and nobody carries em. The Eurasian shops there even told me they wouldn't touch my car for any kinda maintenance so big let down there lol

Interesting... I have a home made charge air tester and I've gotten it all the way up to 40psi without it blowing off. And those are oem clamps/pipes too, not silicone.

As for your trunk, it doesn't open with the fob, right? But your fob works for the doors? Could be the harness at the trunk, or the electric solenoid took dump on ya.

I had looked at the trunk release schematic the other morning, essentially how it works is the switch supplies a ground signal to the CCM. So if that circuit is ok, could be a wire to the trunk lid, or the CCM itself is going bad.

Couldn't remember if I posted this already, but on the external data:


Short version:
Log in again at pics.tdiclub.com
Select Upload button, follow prompts (check your file type)
At the end, harvest the url to use as a link for your post
Note there are 3 sizes with separate urls. For large data use the thumbnail, it shows the full size when clicked.
More complete instructions in my signature.

So with the key fob, it is not programmed to the car yet because I had to swap fobs over with ECM and clusters. So I'm just referring to the switch on the inside of the driver door. But yeah I don't understand if my engine is slightly off center or what but my intercooler and inlet pipe are not quite inline so not sure what to do outside of a longer silicone tube and new clamps or bending the intercooler mounts.