How-To: Replace a MKIV ALH Diesel Injection Pump without Changing the Timing Belt

I see someone has made a pdf for this so you can save it.

http://omahabiofuelscoop.org/references/alh-ip.pdf

Anyone happen to know how similar the procedure is for the B5 (i.e., '05 Passat wagon)? Or know of a relevant replacement how-to? Thanks!

Anybody know the washers part no.?

troublshooting 2001 1.9 TDI Jetta

I have a 2001 1.9 TDI Jetta in the garage. It died when the guy was driving. I have good fuel going in and out of pump. All timing marks are good, compression is very good. I have injection coming out of the injectors. My question is .......Can the hub on the injection pump have turn? ( The customer ran the car with gas for about 20km 1 month prior to this break down.)

Thank you

Archie

my timming is 80, i have to slow?

Working on this slowly with a 500000+ 2001.

I can't get the timing belt off the injection pump sprocket (edit it's loose, belt is off , but cant clear the following:, the acc belt tensioner is in the way (yours is pictured). Figured I'd ask if it's a really tight fit before getting back into it tomorrow and pulling the acc belt tensioner.

Tensioner is all the way back. Everything is aligned and now un-pinned. Don't know what else to say. Oh, the belt is off the cam sprocket (marked some points before removing just in case), just can't clear it without it seeming like it would cause some stress on the timing belt.

edit: nevermind... wiggle wiggle wiggle with the belt still looped over the sprocket. yay

rocketeer928 said:

I'm glad you figured it out, syntrix, as I didn't see your post until now.

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Thank you! I've done a ton of 1.8T's, 2.0's, etc....

BTW answer my question here in 101 on the pump gaskets, not o-rings.

I got a leak out of the gasket area, not o-ringed!

Great writeup btw!

I put paint marks on the timing belt and the cam pulley and the injection pump pulley, aka 1.8T style.

I was able to put the injector pump pulley on easily using the mark, with the cam locked, and then verifying the flywheel mark in the tranny. This helped since I didn't have to pull the cam sprocket.

However, I started to panic when a full rotation didn't align the marks, another rotation, no alignment... It appears that the timing belt is not static to the pulleys. I did about 6 rotations of the cam, then verified everything. It's all in check, but the paint marks are off by about 5-6 teeth for some reason....

Don't know why, but it's all in check after those rotations... very unlike the bazillion 1.8T jobs I have done. This is just a new project tdi that I traded for, so let's hope it's working as intended

syntrix said:

It appears that the timing belt is not static to the pulleys.

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Exactly right. The pulleys (except for crank) have to be loose on their axes so they can do their thing (move back and forth) as the belt is tensioned, whilst the engine is locked down. That is essentially the heart of the tdi job.

with all that time you spent with painting marks and turning it over, you could have just popped the cam gear off and done it right LOL... Seriously it only takes 10 minutes to remove the valve cover and vacuum pump to put the cam lock tool in...

TDIJetta99 said:

Seriously it only takes 10 minutes to remove the valve cover and vacuum pump to put the cam lock tool in...

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Correction: it takes YOU 10 minutes to do the above... For some of us it takes about an hour and a half just to retrieve the tools from whatever "safe" place we put them the last time...

Cheers,

Yuri

I was going to say 5 minutes LOL... If you're removing an injection pump, you should already have your wenches and sockets available, and you shouldn't even think about touching a VW without a 5mm allen handy haha..

Great write-up. My only nit would be turning the engine over from the cam.

When you turn the engine in the direction of normal rotation from the cam, the turning force to turn the engine is bearing against the tensioner potentially damaging the tensioner and making the results from tensioning wrong.

Turning from the crank will give you more accurate timing with the lock tools and also more accurate tensioning because you are not putting forces on the tensioner it was not designed for.

Thanks for the writeup. I just used it three times in a row. At least the process got faster each time.

#1 - install 12mm pump
#2 - swap QA (and timing valve that can't be swapped while installed) with old pump because it won't start the car
#3 - put all the original parts back in because the car still wouldn't start

I guess I'll be sending my Frankenstein pump to Giles to work on the low pressure vane pump.

It seems the link for the pdf is not working. Is there another source, or can someone send it to me? I need to dig into it today. Thanks

Great write up. I'm learning this stuff rright now and this is a big help!

The short story is the car starts, revs a bit higher than expected and immediately dies.

I just finished replacing the 10mm IP with a used 11mm IP on my 2001. I got the pump a while ago from a member on here. He said it was working fine when it was removed and I had no reason to think otherwise.

I am getting P1562 on the Scan Gauge.

I've tried my second key and get the same results.

I've searched for this scenario and have not been successful. Seems like every condition but this has been discussed...If it has please just point me in the right direction. I have a few days to troubleshoot before I put the 10mm back in.

Update: It's running!!! If I keep it above 1500 RPM it is smooth. Below 1500 it surges. If I take my foot off of the accelerator it will run by itself, sometimes a few minutes, sometimes it almost immediately shuts off.

I was able to run VCDS and got this
2 Faults Found:
17969 - Quantity Adjuster (N146)
P1561 - 35-10 - Control Deviation - Intermittent
17970 - Quantity Adjuster (N146)
P1562 - 35-00 - Upper Limit Reached
Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0

Thoughts on the surging? IP needs a rebuild?

Sounds like the QA might be toasted. There's a thread that was recently resurrected not too long ago on fixing QA problems: what's great about it is that it's worked for a lot of people, people that would have otherwise had to resign to swapping out their IPs. The QA can get crudded up, metal particles are attracted to the QA bits (because of the magnetic field from the current that gets applied to it?).

Look at MB019 key on engine off. report back.

You probably will have to pull the top cover off of that pump and mechanically free up the the QA. It is likely that the pump has been sitting a while and has become sticky.
Once you free up the QA, go drive it. Get it nice and hot. take it up to full load a few times then look at MB019 again after that.

May also try running a can of Lubro Moly Diesel Purge through it. I've free'd up stuck QA's with that stuff. Couldn't believe it actually worked.

Might also just be a dead/weak coil in the QA. Nothing you can do about that except replace the QA.

Thanks for to this thread I was able to swap my none working 10mm pump to a 11mm pump with removing my timing belt. Just as an add I removed my idler roller that was between my camshaft pulley and IP to help facilitate IP removal and installation. Now what to do with my old IP?

Update to go with post 54 above. ^

I have a happy car again!!!

I took it out for a drive and must have unstuck all of the sticky parts. That was a fun drive. My apologies to Al Gore. I'd better go plant some trees.

Thanks guys.