DSG service pointers and lessons

I just did my first DSG service on the MK7 and used the DIY's online
Humble Mechanics tutorial
Old myturbodiesel write up
Neither one of these - or the others I searched out online were an MK7 TDI. While everything else is pretty much exactly the same when it comes to changing the filter from the top the packaging is different. The battery now sits completely on top of the filter making it so even being able to look at it is almost impossible.

The order I followed removing parts to gain access is:
1. Remove battery - 10mm terminal nuts and 12mm hold down.
2. Unscrew (t25) air cleaner cover and swing over to the side (or remove if you rather)
3. Disconnect air duct from the rear of air cleaner base, this will slide straight off.
4. Lift upwards on the rear of air cleaner base to disengage rubber mounts and also allow the front of the base to come out of the ducting on top of the radiator - and remove completely.
5. Disconnect wiring and modules clipped to the battery tray.
6. Remove 3 10mm screws and 1 10mm nut from battery tray.
7. Lift battery tray up from the front and rotate it towards the windshield.

Once the battery tray was up access to the trans filter was easy, everything installed in reverse of removal. Like other VW's when you first reconnect the battery and start the car you will get several new errors. TPMS, Steering! and stability control. This is normal. Pull the car out and turn the steering wheel all the way side to side and they should clear.
I've always had great luck accessing parts and filters through tight places but the MK7 just doesn't allow anymore. Hope these steps help someone out.

Very helpful. Thanks.

How did you accomplish the final fluid level check? There is a bit of controversy in the You Tube comment section for the Humble Mechanics video.

Re the final level check, it's clear that these transmissions are not overly sensitive to the exactly correct fluid level so its best not to stress over it and just do it. The humble mechanic was a dealer tech and in the video, he does it the way he did it at the dealership - likely thousands of times. The other methods would all be slightly more accurate - measure what came out and pour that back in, or bring the trans to 35C and crack the drain plug.

Many brands have a similar drain/fill plug that you check with the engine running and its starting to get warm, I've changed it like that a ton of times now.

4.5 to 5L and a new filter. Quick and easy. No stressin. I just put the whole 5L jug in. Set it and Forget it.

I noticed a couple of people said they fill it thru the filter housing instead of pumping it up into the bottom which looks like a real PITA if you ask me.

I spoke with a tech at a dealer.

Drain and fill 5 qts.

Monitor gearbox temp run through gears a few times. Idle a few minutes. Run through gears again.

. Once to 35*c pull dip tube until draining stops.

Done.

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jason_ said:

I spoke with a tech at a dealer.

Drain and fill 5 qts.

Monitor gearbox temp run through gears a few times. Idle a few minutes. Run through gears again.

. Once to 35*c pull dip tube until draining stops.

Done.

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Click to expand...

No dip tube, just a drain / fill plug. You'd just crack open the plug on the bottom of the trans and let the excess dribble out.

I pull the battery and tray out on all the CR cars. I keep the car's memory alive with a jump pack at the underhood fuse box.

I have the pump to fill it from the bottom, it is easy and quick, no mess, and while it is filling I am doing something else that would be due at the same time.

Optimization of time is key when you do this for a living

jason_ said:

I spoke with a tech at a dealer.

Drain and fill 5 qts.

Monitor gearbox temp run through gears a few times. Idle a few minutes. Run through gears again.

. Once to 35*c pull dip tube until draining stops.

Done.

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Click to expand...

Which doesn't seem to be the method shown in the humble mechanic as he pulls the fill port before starting the car, you gotta get that filter full of fluid before draining excess otherwise she'll be a bit short.

That being said, I just measure what comes out and replace through the fill port.

In about another 10K I get to do a DSG change twice

Yeah. Plastic tube from bottom? That eshf I took out.

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mopower said:

No dip tube, just a drain / fill plug. You'd just crack open the plug on the bottom of the trans and let the excess dribble out.

Click to expand...

did you do the adaptation procedure after the fluid change?

oilhammer said:

I pull the battery and tray out on all the CR cars. I keep the car's memory alive with a jump pack at the underhood fuse box.
I have the pump to fill it from the bottom, it is easy and quick, no mess, and while it is filling I am doing something else that would be due at the same time.
Optimization of time is key when you do this for a living

Click to expand...

I used the gravity funnel from IDParts for mine and my buddy's car. Money well spent, imo, even though I'm not doing it for a living

I am so frustrated that they put the oil filter in the bottom and don't understand the benefits of doing it that way. I still haven't put my noise guard back on.

Can we have some more details regarding maintaining power at the fuse box?

Jump pack, POS to the main lug into the fuse link box, ground to wherever it is easy to get to... some models right on the ground cable where it attaches to the body, others (where this is down the side of the strut tower and not as easy to get to) I stick it on the engine or trans somewhere. Ground is ground, doesn't really matter where.

They also make battery savers that go through the DLC, as well as the 12v outlet in the car, but I have found sometimes these do not work.

Awesome info! Thank you.

oilhammer said:

Jump pack, POS to the main lug into the fuse link box, ground to wherever it is easy to get to... some models right on the ground cable where it attaches to the body, others (where this is down the side of the strut tower and not as easy to get to) I stick it on the engine or trans somewhere. Ground is ground, doesn't really matter where.
They also make battery savers that go through the DLC, as well as the 12v outlet in the car, but I have found sometimes these do not work.

Click to expand...

Doesn't using a jump pack defeat the purpose of disconnecting the positive for safety while working on the car? (electrical specifically)

Reason I lkke trickle chargers...

If yiy short those you'll get some light sparks...

Dragging a hot lead across an engine block with 600 amps... That's an eye opener...and brew spiller...

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mopower said:

Doesn't using a jump pack defeat the purpose of disconnecting the positive for safety while working on the car? (electrical specifically)

Click to expand...

There is no need to disconnect the battery for safety to change the DSG's filter, you just have to do it for clearance. I wrap the positive lead taken loose from the battery in a towel and secure it out of the way.

I've done this probably a thousand times. I am not doing anything different than the battery savers do, just doing it in a more convenient spot under the hood. The leads are small "alligator clip" wires that go into the 12v socket on the jump pack, it is the same 12v socket the battery saver would go to.. and I have a lead that has a double plug 12v socket (male and male) as well as one that has a DLC connection.

But when the car is on the 2-post lift I use, it is awkward to open the driver's door to get at these connections, and as I said, some cars this doesn't seem to work on to keep all the memory alive for whatever reason. Going right to the main fuse box under the hood where the battery connects does, every time.

I just did my 2015 GSW today. Somehow managed to spend all afternoon on it, but it will go faster next time. I realized at the end that my old VagCom dongle from ALH days cannot read the modules on my car, so couldn't read the temp. Since 35C=95F I left finger under the drip and waited until it seemed about body temperature. Screwed the stealer out of $700!

A non contact thermal IR would be close enough. Also if you change the fluid on a warm car, and get the new fluid in the DSG in under a hour, idling the car for a few min should get that fluid up to where is should be due to the coolant loop.