$300 350,000 mile tdi hydrolocked???

mk4mr said:

just pull the trans for one of my other cars

Click to expand...

The diesel trans has different gearing then the gassers.

Pull the intake pipe coming into the turbo and use both an inspection mirror and your fingers. Usually if it's lunched it's pretty obvious -- not always, but usually.

But the oil in the I/C pipe in any sort of volume is pretty much proof that it's toast.

The best "no disassembly" option to figure out what the odds of a bent rod are is a compression test. Given the mess you had come out of all the holes it's entirely possible you bent more than one rod, but if all holes are in-spec for compression and there's no material variation you might have gotten lucky. The definitive test is to measure piston protrusion but to do that you need to pull the head and now you're into it for a timing belt kit, head gasket and assortment of one-time fasteners (e.g. head bolts, mount bolts to do the timing belt, etc) you have to remove. While you CAN put it back together with the existing belt that's a losing proposition since you don't have a KNOWN good history on it. If you break or strip the belt you're **guaranteed** to do serious cylinder head damage (read: get out your wallet or find a used but in good-condition replacement head.)

In addition at that age I'd consider the oil pump and tensioner while you have it apart as once again a failure there and you're likely to lunch the engine -- and at that mileage you're getting into the zone where it can and has failed on people, although there are some folks who have gotten 500k+ miles without it dying, so....

Speaking of which since you don't have solid knowledge of the time on the existing timing belt I'd do a complete kit anyway. So if you're lucky then it's that plus a working turbo and you're back online. If not and you bent rods then you have some decisions to make. At this age and with what you paid for the car it all comes down to what you're willing to spend and which way you want to go -- the options are to fix what you have or find a running take-out engine, do the belt, water pump and rollers while it's out of the car (MUCH easier since you're not fighting the mounts, brackets, etc.) and then install it.

So low-end you find a working used turbo (maybe one someone swapped out during a tune + power increase binge) and install that, plus a timing belt kit. On the other extreme it's one or more rods + having them balanced + the fasteners for the head and the proper gasket after you get them back and measure protrusion + that timing belt kit and then considering whether you want to do the oil pump as well in an attempt to protect your materially larger investment from a possible "aw crap" sort of failure shortly thereafter. If you DO pull the head for some reason (or even if not and you're just doing the timing belt) DO check the cam and lifter condition; it doesn't take long to pop the caps off and see what you got there, and again, you're in the mileage range where you could have something going on there that's getting close to failure as well.

Sooo what would happen if he ran it with the turbo outlet disconnected?
He could see how much oil is spewing from it.

Also I think sometimes the reason the turbo oil supply line twists with the line nut is because it's threaded to another fitting that turns.
So when you loosen the nut it doesn't actually loosen,..
it turns the turbo fitting.
I think you can take a 17mm wrench and grind on it until you can fit it on the lands of the turbo fitting, to hold it still while the line nut is loosened.
You still have to watch to see if the line is turning with the line nut.

"I'm not the guy who would ever complain about receiving basic information. It's better(in my opinion) to hear something again than to have never heard it altogether. Getting information twice won't hurt you, but not getting information at all...now that makes things much harder."

Phew, glad I didn't appear to be condescending. You're getting good info,
but it can be overwhelming. For me, if I understand the principles,
I've got a chance to be able to work it out.

We're getting back to one of my original suggestions though, pull the motor.
Genesis has the right technical advice/knowledge to really check it out.
Or find another engine, and rebuild this one at leisure as time and money
allow. Once you get these motors right, they go and go and go. But you do have to get them right.

German engineering doesn't allow much fudge factor, especially with diesels.

mk4mr said:

Is it beneficial to soak it with penetrant or maybe use heat?
Are you talking about nickel anti-seize?
Thanks for the heads up!

Click to expand...

The penetrating oil certainty wouldn’t hurt.

Yes the high temp.

I’ve been successful in getting all my lines off in one piece. I’ve done about 10 or so turbo swaps . Usually when I get a car it’s one of the first things to come off as I take them apart to clean the VNT mechanism 90% of them are stiff to move .

I’ve got 5 TDI’s in the stable ATM. One for me, one for each of my kids and one I’m putting back together that someone botched a TB job , replaced two pistons and one bent connecting rod. Right now she’s purring like a kitten and will be a spare car in case one of the kids car goes down or mine for repair.

Do a Google search for ALH-tdi turbo line wrench. An, if I remember right, 17 Mill box wrench cut open just wide enough to slip over the line. Works great for holding the fitting on the turbo

wonneber said:

The diesel trans has different gearing then the gassers.

Click to expand...

Yes, I have heard this, but I hear commonly that the gearing is desired for many people because if the highway gearing that helps the gassers not rev so high. I hope to leave it in this car and drive it as it is .

Genesis said:

Pull the intake pipe coming into the turbo and use both an inspection mirror and your fingers. Usually if it's lunched it's pretty obvious -- not always, but usually.

But the oil in the I/C pipe in any sort of volume is pretty much proof that it's toast.

The best "no disassembly" option to figure out what the odds of a bent rod are is a compression test. Given the mess you had come out of all the holes it's entirely possible you bent more than one rod, but if all holes are in-spec for compression and there's no material variation you might have gotten lucky. The definitive test is to measure piston protrusion but to do that you need to pull the head and now you're into it for a timing belt kit, head gasket and assortment of one-time fasteners (e.g. head bolts, mount bolts to do the timing belt, etc) you have to remove. While you CAN put it back together with the existing belt that's a losing proposition since you don't have a KNOWN good history on it. If you break or strip the belt you're **guaranteed** to do serious cylinder head damage (read: get out your wallet or find a used but in good-condition replacement head.)

In addition at that age I'd consider the oil pump and tensioner while you have it apart as once again a failure there and you're likely to lunch the engine -- and at that mileage you're getting into the zone where it can and has failed on people, although there are some folks who have gotten 500k+ miles without it dying, so....

Speaking of which since you don't have solid knowledge of the time on the existing timing belt I'd do a complete kit anyway. So if you're lucky then it's that plus a working turbo and you're back online. If not and you bent rods then you have some decisions to make. At this age and with what you paid for the car it all comes down to what you're willing to spend and which way you want to go -- the options are to fix what you have or find a running take-out engine, do the belt, water pump and rollers while it's out of the car (MUCH easier since you're not fighting the mounts, brackets, etc.) and then install it.

So low-end you find a working used turbo (maybe one someone swapped out during a tune + power increase binge) and install that, plus a timing belt kit. On the other extreme it's one or more rods + having them balanced + the fasteners for the head and the proper gasket after you get them back and measure protrusion + that timing belt kit and then considering whether you want to do the oil pump as well in an attempt to protect your materially larger investment from a possible "aw crap" sort of failure shortly thereafter. If you DO pull the head for some reason (or even if not and you're just doing the timing belt) DO check the cam and lifter condition; it doesn't take long to pop the caps off and see what you got there, and again, you're in the mileage range where you could have something going on there that's getting close to failure as well.

Click to expand...

I plan on checking out the turbo next.

I think that this is where I am on this car right now, considering I know zero about any upkeep or replacement of anything(head, turbo, entire engine etc...) I don't mind putting a used turbo on it, if that is required to check the engine/head condition. If compression tests are no good, I'm likely to look for a used engine. It seems as though that would honestly be less work up front. I'll keep this engine and go through it later if it's not going to prove a runner right now. The car is otherwise clean enough and solid enough to put an engine in, but I do not have the proper set up right now to tear one down and overhaul it properly. So...after that long stretch of info...haha...I need to safely get to a point where I can turn the engine over with the key and check compression. I do plan on trying to verify timing. This belt looks new...the back surface is not slick and shiny at all, it shows no wear that I can tell...it still has the 'texture' on the back of the belt, and it is at least 'snug'. I dare say the belt is quite recent. I can't really see the water pump very well. There are no replacement stickers or notes to be found anywhere though. If compression checks out, I don't mind putting a timing kit in it, but I do want to inspect it all first. If the water pump looks as clean and new as the belt does, I won't feel quiet as rushed to replace them immediately, although they will be replaced soon(as in spring-time) and driving would be only occasional until then.

fatmobile said:

Sooo what would happen if he ran it with the turbo outlet disconnected?
He could see how much oil is spewing from it.

Also I think sometimes the reason the turbo oil supply line twists with the line nut is because it's threaded to another fitting that turns.
So when you loosen the nut it doesn't actually loosen,..
it turns the turbo fitting.
I think you can take a 17mm wrench and grind on it until you can fit it on the lands of the turbo fitting, to hold it still while the line nut is loosened.
You still have to watch to see if the line is turning with the line nut.

Click to expand...

I have not laid eyes on this yet, physically, but I do now know that I need a modified 17mm wrench, and I can get that together and have it ready. Very handy information. Thank you!

Rrusse11 said:

"I'm not the guy who would ever complain about receiving basic information. It's better(in my opinion) to hear something again than to have never heard it altogether. Getting information twice won't hurt you, but not getting information at all...now that makes things much harder."

Phew, glad I didn't appear to be condescending. You're getting good info,
but it can be overwhelming. For me, if I understand the principles,
I've got a chance to be able to work it out.

We're getting back to one of my original suggestions though, pull the motor.
Genesis has the right technical advice/knowledge to really check it out.
Or find another engine, and rebuild this one at leisure as time and money
allow. Once you get these motors right, they go and go and go. But you do have to get them right.

German engineering doesn't allow much fudge factor, especially with diesels.

Click to expand...

Yes, I'd like to just pull this engine and dig into it later...but if this one is 'okay', I'd much rather run it for a bit and learn some diesel quirks first hand. It would be a challenge to pull a diesel and put another used one in without having any experience with how one runs at all. I think I could do it, but it would be much more worrisome I think. I mentioned in a post above that I will go so far as to put a turbo on this one if the one in it seems bad, but I don't see myself pulling the head off of this one while in the car if compression is not good, or doing a rebuild on this engine because I just don't have a good place to do that the right just yet. At that point, I'll pull the engine and put another in, but that's not what I'm hoping for. I need this one to run for a little while. Maybe it will.

I'm also going to be honest. While I don't know enough to know what initially happened to this car, I still have a little hope. Even though it might have been a bad idea to have ever tried to start it a few days ago...it did start, and I could hear the faint turbo sound as it started. It gave me hope. After that, it sounded like it just ran out of fuel, but I was re-inspired just by that brief run of maybe 15 seconds. I can still turn the engine by the crank bolt, so it has at least not filled any of the cylinders with leaking diesel or anything residual in the intake. This may be all foolish, but it has been enough to make me want to get to the bottom of things.

Thank you immensely for the ideas and thoughts. Keep them coming!

csstevej said:

The penetrating oil certainty wouldn’t hurt.
Yes the high temp.
I’ve been successful in getting all my lines off in one piece. I’ve done about 10 or so turbo swaps . Usually when I get a car it’s one of the first things to come off as I take them apart to clean the VNT mechanism 90% of them are stiff to move .
I’ve got 5 TDI’s in the stable ATM. One for me, one for each of my kids and one I’m putting back together that someone botched a TB job , replaced two pistons and one bent connecting rod. Right now she’s purring like a kitten and will be a spare car in case one of the kids car goes down or mine for repair.

Click to expand...

I keep it all in mind and approach the line removal with caution.

This is the 6th Mk4 in my driveway, but my first TDI. I am going in so many different directions already....haha. There could surely be worse situations to be in though...

jmodge said:

Do a Google search for ALH-tdi turbo line wrench. An, if I remember right, 17 Mill box wrench cut open just wide enough to slip over the line. Works great for holding the fitting on the turbo

Click to expand...

Aha! Just make a homemade line wrench of sorts, huh? Great idea! That can definitely happen. Thanks!

I want to apologize if I neglect to respond to anyone's posts or comments. I'm trying to respond to as much as I can keep track of, so please don't take offense if I miss out on a response. I'm reading them all multiple times.

I have a couple of generic questions that I think will help me as I get a little further along. I'll just list a few of them, and if anyone has any information about any of them, feel free to throw it out there.

1). Is power to the fuel cut-off solenoid on the IP hot all of the time with the ignition on, or does it depend on the engine running condition, or is it something else?

2). If this car has had a regular gas fuel pump installed, will it create too much pressure in the IP, or would it just recirculate back to the tank like on a regular gas system? I know there is a pump in this tank, but I don't know if it is a pick-up or a regular fuel pump.

3). IF this is a gasser fuel pump, I'm not thinking it could push fuel all the way through the injectors into the cylinders if the injectors are indeed good. I think the IP puts a crap-ton of pressure through the lines to ever get the injectors to open and atomize, right? Even a gasser fuel pump doesn't put out nearly that much pressure, especially when it has an open recirc route back to the tank. This is just me brainstorming, but isn't this correct? At least partially correct maybe??

4). If I pull in/out piping from the turbo, am I safe to crank this engine? Will it even idle correctly with no turbo connection(if there is no engine/head damage, or with the turbo piping not connected is my best hope going to be a compression check? With no turbo connection, I don't know what it can physically do.

5). If it turns out that I'm pulling this engine...how do I know the one at the local yard...or anybody's yard is any count either? Aside from rotating via the crank, what's to be looked for? The local yard sells long blocks with accessories for about $150, but to me, there's a couple hundred bucks worth of hassle to pull it there...haha...

There will be more questions to come.

1. When you turn the ignition to "on" it will pull in for a couple of seconds, then drop. When you start to crank it pulls in and remains in when the engine is running. That's the "primary" means the ECU has to control the car getting fuel and running.

2. If it's a gasser fuel pump I would get it out of there. The PD engines have an in-tank pump but the ALH does not from the factory. The problem with an in-tank pump is that you really do need to have it powered off a relay that's tapped from the pull-to-run solenoid or it's quite dangerous if you're in a wreck or similar since it will stay energized any time the ignition is on and if there's a crash and a fuel leak you DEFINITELY do not want that. Diesel isn't gasoline, but still...

3. Definitely not on the pressure. The IP produces pressure WAY beyond what the in-tank pump can do. Not even close.

4. If you have the intake pipe off at the EGR valve (top of the engine) then you can't ingest a slug of oil. It's ok to start the engine in that circumstance but be careful that nothing can be ingested down that hole and have something that can't be ingested you can stuff in it if necessary to shut off the air. The turbo is part of the exhaust manifold; if you pull the outlet then you've got hot exhaust gas coming out of the bottom, and if you remove the entire assembly now you have open exhaust ports. I would NOT crank it under that circumstance if there's any chance it fires; 1,000F exhaust gas going places where you're not sure what can burn is probably a bad idea. Remove the wire from the pull-to-run solenoid on the IP and you can crank with the engine getting no fuel, but if there's oil residue in the cylinder or intake it MAY fire on that for at least a couple of rotations, so do pay attention. This may throw a code (disconnecting the large IP wiring harness connection definitely WILL throw a code) but it's easily cleared. I'm assuming you want to crank it without it firing for a compression test, which makes sense.

One other thing to be aware of is that these engines frequently build up a LOT of carbon in the intake pipe and ports. This is not a big deal normally, other than when it gets silly you have to take that apart and clean it, but in the event of a major oil ingestion event you could knock a decent amount of that loose and if you do, and it goes down the intake, it could jam an intake valve open and now you've got real trouble (as in piston-valve collision.) This is one of the reasons you have to proceed with care in a situation like you've had occur.

BTW one final thing -- while it's much easier to access all the timing belt components with the engine out it is absolutely essential that the engine is at TDC when you install the new belt to align the cam and crank correctly. The bellhousing is where the alignment pin is for the flywheel, which, if you pull the engine leaving the transmission in the car, won't be there. There ARE other means of determining TDC (e.g. probe down #1's glow plug hole, etc) but you have to be BANG ON when doing that job -- the margin of error before you have a valve/piston collision is only about 7 degrees of rotation!

Genesis said:

1. When you turn the ignition to "on" it will pull in for a couple of seconds, then drop. When you start to crank it pulls in and remains in when the engine is running. That's the "primary" means the ECU has to control the car getting fuel and running.

2. If it's a gasser fuel pump I would get it out of there. The PD engines have an in-tank pump but the ALH does not from the factory. The problem with an in-tank pump is that you really do need to have it powered off a relay that's tapped from the pull-to-run solenoid or it's quite dangerous if you're in a wreck or similar since it will stay energized any time the ignition is on and if there's a crash and a fuel leak you DEFINITELY do not want that. Diesel isn't gasoline, but still...

3. Definitely not on the pressure. The IP produces pressure WAY beyond what the in-tank pump can do. Not even close.

4. If you have the intake pipe off at the EGR valve (top of the engine) then you can't ingest a slug of oil. It's ok to start the engine in that circumstance but be careful that nothing can be ingested down that hole and have something that can't be ingested you can stuff in it if necessary to shut off the air. The turbo is part of the exhaust manifold; if you pull the outlet then you've got hot exhaust gas coming out of the bottom, and if you remove the entire assembly now you have open exhaust ports. I would NOT crank it under that circumstance if there's any chance it fires; 1,000F exhaust gas going places where you're not sure what can burn is probably a bad idea. Remove the wire from the pull-to-run solenoid on the IP and you can crank with the engine getting no fuel, but if there's oil residue in the cylinder or intake it MAY fire on that for at least a couple of rotations, so do pay attention. This may throw a code (disconnecting the large IP wiring harness connection definitely WILL throw a code) but it's easily cleared. I'm assuming you want to crank it without it firing for a compression test, which makes sense.

One other thing to be aware of is that these engines frequently build up a LOT of carbon in the intake pipe and ports. This is not a big deal normally, other than when it gets silly you have to take that apart and clean it, but in the event of a major oil ingestion event you could knock a decent amount of that loose and if you do, and it goes down the intake, it could jam an intake valve open and now you've got real trouble (as in piston-valve collision.) This is one of the reasons you have to proceed with care in a situation like you've had occur.

BTW one final thing -- while it's much easier to access all the timing belt components with the engine out it is absolutely essential that the engine is at TDC when you install the new belt to align the cam and crank correctly. The bellhousing is where the alignment pin is for the flywheel, which, if you pull the engine leaving the transmission in the car, won't be there. There ARE other means of determining TDC (e.g. probe down #1's glow plug hole, etc) but you have to be BANG ON when doing that job -- the margin of error before you have a valve/piston collision is only about 7 degrees of rotation!

Click to expand...

Thanks! Great information!

1). Just what I needed to know. I want to make sure this is at least getting voltage. Now I know when to check and what it should be receiving.

2). I'm going to have to look for part #'s. All I know right now is that whatever is in the tank now has a 4 pin 'receiver'. The car's harness is still the intact 2-pin. Nothing is currently connected. There were a couple of pieces of wire still left under the carpet 'flap', and 2 crimp-on connectors pushed onto the 2 outside pins of the 4 pin connector. No wires connected to them, but I'm sure that was the idea. As I mentioned, nothing is connected now, nor has it been since I bought the car. ((Will the IP operate with no fuel level reading???)) If it is not a specified lift pump, it will come out. If it is indeed a lift pump, I will be implementing a proper relay pulled in at the right time although I will admittedly have to study up on the electrical connections required. I'm a stickler for trying to do it properly....tons of loose wires bother me...haha.

3). Ok, that's kinda what I thought. So, even if this car has a gas pump in the tank, it didn't push fuel into the cylinders due to extra pressure it supplied. It would need to come out of the tank either way, but it has likely not led to fluid in the cylinders on this car. So I'm assuming anyway...

4). This car has had all of the EGR system removed/deleted. I don't suppose it really changes the basic operation, but I'd probably rather it still be there while I'm learning this engine. Either way, EGR is gone. The replacement 'tube' that is in the place of the old EGR assembly is currently open, but I do have the pieces to close the system back up if/when the time comes. I assume this is where you are suggesting to block air from if things were to start to run away, right? Is it sufficient to just remove the single wire from the solenoid on the IP, or should I unbolt the larger connector from the front-facing edge of the IP? But yes, short story long, I just feel like a compression test is going to let me know which direction to go. I don't think I should put another dollar directly into this car until I read compression. I think this will be the deciding factor in picking 1 of 2 very different pathways.

I'll look as far into the intake system as I can without pulling anything gasket related. The top side of the head is very clean. No sludge or noticeable carbon in that area...I know that's not a lot to go by, but at least things are quiet clean under the valve cover. I'd say for a potentially 350,000 mile assembly, it looks pretty good. There's no EGR to clog. I'll try to look into the piping in that area and see what it looks like. Did I mention earlier that the lifters and cam lobes looked good? They do...in my opinion. While those aren't guarantees, they are at least noteworthy.

I do know that TDC is golden here, so that will be a primary concern if things go that way.

You provided tons of information.... I appreciate it!!!

4. No. The intake pipe, which you have disconnected from the I/C piping from what you've described, is what I'm talking about. If the EGR was removed then in all probability the intake is clear and doesn't have build-up in it.

If you remove the single wire on the front of the pump the engine will not start since that solenoid is "pull to run"; you don't have to disconnect the rectangular wiring harness although it doesn't hurt to do so.

Downside of an inoperable pump in your tank is that it could restrict flow. ALH injection pump low pressure side pulls fuel from the tank, high pressure side then distributes fuel to the injectors. Grind the thickness of that 17 mm wrench down or it will grab both the turbo fitting and the nut on the line, leading to uncontrollable profanity. Have you ever checked static timing? Look up DIY TDI timing tools. I made my own and have used them several times. Just don’t rotate the engine by the cam, use the crank or compression is working against the belt.

If cam to crank timing is ok, cranking or running it should not be a problem, as long as you pull the boost pipe from the intake, as previously mentioned. If you are going to do a compression test, be aware that oil in the cylinders will raise compression, possibly beyond capability of the gauge. If crank/cam are in time I would not be afraid to fire it and clear the cylinders. Just be ready with a rag to choke it if rpm’s climb on their own. And keep in mind oil is most likely being pumped into the intake tract, so what is in the pan will be going down

Just get a stock ALH sending unit and be done with it. Lift pumps are unnecessary on that car unless you are pushing 200+HP plus it adds another point of failure. A gasser pump will absolutely not work and likely blow the seals out in the injection pump.

IF this was my car I would do the following steps:
1. check timing belt and components. Belt should be tight. No timing marks, timing is set using locking tools.
2. Run some fuel lines from a clean jug of diesel to the fuel filter. This will be a temporary fuel supply to see if the engine runs.
3.Disconnect the upper intake hose going into the intake manifold. This will insure if the turbo is passing oil that it won't go into the engine and cause a runaway.
4.Remove glow plugs and turn over engine. Make sure ALL oil is out. Doesn't take very much to bend a rod.
5. Install glow plugs and bleed fuel system. Use a mityvac to suck the fuel into the pump and crack loose the injector lines. Crank until fuel squirts out.
6. Tighten the lines and try to fire it up. A lumpy start may indicate a bent rod.
7. If the engine runs OK then a compression test would be a good idea. Harbor freight makes a diesel compression tester that works OK.
8.Assuming you made it this far and everything checks out, now take a look at the turbo to see if its dumping oil or not. Pull the intake tube, outlet pipe and run the engine. Look for oil dripping out.

Doing these steps will set you in the right direction. I know people are just trying to help but there are a LOT of armchair mechanics in this thread.

Genesis said:

1. When you turn the ignition to "on" it will pull in for a couple of seconds, then drop. When you start to crank it pulls in and remains in when the engine is running. That's the "primary" means the ECU has to control the car getting fuel and running.

2. If it's a gasser fuel pump I would get it out of there. The PD engines have an in-tank pump but the ALH does not from the factory. The problem with an in-tank pump is that you really do need to have it powered off a relay that's tapped from the pull-to-run solenoid or it's quite dangerous if you're in a wreck or similar since it will stay energized any time the ignition is on and if there's a crash and a fuel leak you DEFINITELY do not want that. Diesel isn't gasoline, but still...

3. Definitely not on the pressure. The IP produces pressure WAY beyond what the in-tank pump can do. Not even close.

4. If you have the intake pipe off at the EGR valve (top of the engine) then you can't ingest a slug of oil. It's ok to start the engine in that circumstance but be careful that nothing can be ingested down that hole and have something that can't be ingested you can stuff in it if necessary to shut off the air. The turbo is part of the exhaust manifold; if you pull the outlet then you've got hot exhaust gas coming out of the bottom, and if you remove the entire assembly now you have open exhaust ports. I would NOT crank it under that circumstance if there's any chance it fires; 1,000F exhaust gas going places where you're not sure what can burn is probably a bad idea. Remove the wire from the pull-to-run solenoid on the IP and you can crank with the engine getting no fuel, but if there's oil residue in the cylinder or intake it MAY fire on that for at least a couple of rotations, so do pay attention. This may throw a code (disconnecting the large IP wiring harness connection definitely WILL throw a code) but it's easily cleared. I'm assuming you want to crank it without it firing for a compression test, which makes sense.

One other thing to be aware of is that these engines frequently build up a LOT of carbon in the intake pipe and ports. This is not a big deal normally, other than when it gets silly you have to take that apart and clean it, but in the event of a major oil ingestion event you could knock a decent amount of that loose and if you do, and it goes down the intake, it could jam an intake valve open and now you've got real trouble (as in piston-valve collision.) This is one of the reasons you have to proceed with care in a situation like you've had occur.

BTW one final thing -- while it's much easier to access all the timing belt components with the engine out it is absolutely essential that the engine is at TDC when you install the new belt to align the cam and crank correctly. The bellhousing is where the alignment pin is for the flywheel, which, if you pull the engine leaving the transmission in the car, won't be there. There ARE other means of determining TDC (e.g. probe down #1's glow plug hole, etc) but you have to be BANG ON when doing that job -- the margin of error before you have a valve/piston collision is only about 7 degrees of rotation!

Click to expand...

Genesis said:

4. No. The intake pipe, which you have disconnected from the I/C piping from what you've described, is what I'm talking about. If the EGR was removed then in all probability the intake is clear and doesn't have build-up in it.

If you remove the single wire on the front of the pump the engine will not start since that solenoid is "pull to run"; you don't have to disconnect the rectangular wiring harness although it doesn't hurt to do so.

Click to expand...

4). Gotcha! I'll still try to check anything associated.

jmodge said:

Downside of an inoperable pump in your tank is that it could restrict flow. ALH injection pump low pressure side pulls fuel from the tank, high pressure side then distributes fuel to the injectors. Grind the thickness of that 17 mm wrench down or it will grab both the turbo fitting and the nut on the line, leading to uncontrollable profanity. Have you ever checked static timing? Look up DIY TDI timing tools. I made my own and have used them several times. Just don’t rotate the engine by the cam, use the crank or compression is working against the belt.

Click to expand...

I understand what you're saying about the pump. I'll have to pull it and see what I can tell from it. I don't know if there will be any identifying information on it or not. It's possible that it is actually a lift pump, because I have since learned that the PO didn't do any of the work but someone else did. Maybe there's a ray of hope that this person knew a little...maybe.

What it does make me think is that the car just wasn't starting and that someone suspected fuel. If the car had been hydrolocked like it was when I got it, surely you wouldn't try to pump more fuel into an engine that wouldn't even rotate. I could be wrong, but I kind of think(hope) that the fluid in the cylinders was someone's fault. I know they may still have damaged the engine in the process, but I think the locked cylinders were a result of trying unsuccessfully to get the car to start due to another problem that likely still exists.

jmodge said:

If cam to crank timing is ok, cranking or running it should not be a problem, as long as you pull the boost pipe from the intake, as previously mentioned. If you are going to do a compression test, be aware that oil in the cylinders will raise compression, possibly beyond capability of the gauge. If crank/cam are in time I would not be afraid to fire it and clear the cylinders. Just be ready with a rag to choke it if rpm’s climb on their own. And keep in mind oil is most likely being pumped into the intake tract, so what is in the pan will be going down

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I have not checked the timing in any way yet. It is one of the very next things I'll be trying to do. Once I found out that the engine could be fully rotated via the crank, I felt that timing was either ok, or valves were already bent and that I wasn't going to really hurt them any more by moving forward with just trying to see if it would run as it sits. I have wanted to check the timing but I have not really been under the car more than to just turn the crank bolt and pull the pipe off of the intercooler and to drill a small hole in the intercooler to see what was in it.

Does the ALH crank gear have a timing mark of any kind? I know about the flywheel marks, but it would be nice to have a mark to look at when lying under the car, turning the crank bolt. I'll have to look that up.

turbocharged798 said:

Just get a stock ALH sending unit and be done with it. Lift pumps are unnecessary on that car unless you are pushing 200+HP plus it adds another point of failure. A gasser pump will absolutely not work and likely blow the seals out in the injection pump.

IF this was my car I would do the following steps:
1. check timing belt and components. Belt should be tight. No timing marks, timing is set using locking tools.
2. Run some fuel lines from a clean jug of diesel to the fuel filter. This will be a temporary fuel supply to see if the engine runs.
3.Disconnect the upper intake hose going into the intake manifold. This will insure if the turbo is passing oil that it won't go into the engine and cause a runaway.
4.Remove glow plugs and turn over engine. Make sure ALL oil is out. Doesn't take very much to bend a rod.
5. Install glow plugs and bleed fuel system. Use a mityvac to suck the fuel into the pump and crack loose the injector lines. Crank until fuel squirts out.
6. Tighten the lines and try to fire it up. A lumpy start may indicate a bent rod.
7. If the engine runs OK then a compression test would be a good idea. Harbor freight makes a diesel compression tester that works OK.
8.Assuming you made it this far and everything checks out, now take a look at the turbo to see if its dumping oil or not. Pull the intake tube, outlet pipe and run the engine. Look for oil dripping out.

Doing these steps will set you in the right direction. I know people are just trying to help but there are a LOT of armchair mechanics in this thread.

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Hey! If I can get it to run off of a jug/jar/can of diesel, I'll put a regular sending unit in it in a heartbeat. I'm not going to buy one until I know if this engine is any good. If it's not, even though I'll still have to buy one later, I will likely hold off on it until I am able to locate a known good engine. I'm still holding out a little hope that this might even actually be a lift pump, which I might leave in if actually is one. I suppose I can put a fuel pressure gauge in line and fire the pump directly to see what it puts out. I guess anything over 10 psi is too much, right?

I don't want to come across as cheap, because that's not the case, but I do have to feel know what I have first and then I'll do whatever is needed to make it right. I hope the engine is still ok, and if it is, either wire in a lift pump with a relay and the works or just go back to stock sending unit. If I do have a lift pump, I'll try to make it right and make use of it. If it's a gasser pump, I'll just go back stock.

1). Timing check is high on the list for sure. I don't have any of the tools/locks, but if I can find crank tdc position, I can at least tell if the cam is where it should be. I won't have a clue about the IP, but I'll at least know where I stand(mostly) in regard to crank/cam. This belt is tight, and I think it looks very fresh. I need to upload some pics. But, yes, if crank and cam don't jive, I'll know I've got head problems and I'll just pull this engine. I have looked at the lifters(with cam still installed) and I see no damage, and have even been able to spin each one a little to get a better look. If there is damage there, I have missed it...and that is very possible.

2). The engine started for me a couple of days ago, after the cylinders were cleared. It was not an immediate start, but after a few seconds of cranking, it started, and idled for maybe 15 seconds and the died. It reminded me of a gas engine that ran out of fuel. It restarted but required a little more cranking and didn't idle quiet as long. It 'almost' started a few more times, but never would idle again. I just left it at that and felt like it was a small victory. All of this was IP connected to stock lines to tank.

3). Done

4). Done

5). Done, mostly. I did crack the lines at the injectors, but could not see them while cranking. There was fuel.
Pulling vacuum on the return connection of the IP, I did finally draw fuel. Hoses were disconnected from the filter outlet side and in a container of diesel. I don't know how much I should have tried to pull through, but the hand vac I was using had a smallish container and I filled it. The fuel was the same color as what I had in the container, but maybe all diesel is the same light greenish color...IDK. Fuel filter is full.

6). Seemed a little lumpy in the short period it idled. I don't think there was any throttle response, but honestly cannot remember...the hole thing was a brief moment...haha.

7). That's all it's run. I'm leery of trying to start it until I look at the turbo. I felt positive when it started and held it's own for that short bit. It probably wasn't the smoothest thing, but it did start. If I'd known there was a snowball's chance in hell that it would have actually started, I would have recorded it with my phone. I need to visit Harbor Freight.

8). Turbo checks are on the list.

There are often many different approaches to any given situation, and I'll always keep that in mind. I like the different ideas and thoughts, but I do know that it's up to me to take them all and decide what makes the most sense to me. I'm glad to hear everyone's suggestions, but when it comes down to it, I know I have to decide what risks to take. Fortunately, I am very aware that I do not know it all, so that helps me to remain humble venture careful into something I'm not familiar with.

Thank you for this post. I like it...good information.

Timing check is all done from under the hood. Pull the airbox and you can view the flywheel by putting your eyes just above the fender and looking at the top of the bell housing there is a rubber plug that pulls out. Pulling the valve cover you We’ll see a slot in the back of the cam, it should be horizontal while the two cam lobes on cylinder number one are pointing in an upward direction

The flywheel mark can be hard to find, I ink marked mine. I also ink. marked a line on both sides of that mark, orange on one side and green on the other. And then an orange and green dot on each side of the inspection hole so that by whatever color is showing on the flywheel I know which way to rotate it to find the timing mark. The slot in the cam is where the lock slides into and sits on the machined surface where the valve cover mates to the head

jmodge said:

Timing check is all done from under the hood. Pull the airbox and you can view the flywheel by putting your eyes just above the fender and looking at the top of the bell housing there is a rubber plug that pulls out. Pulling the valve cover you We’ll see a slot in the back of the cam, it should be horizontal while the two cam lobes on cylinder number one are pointing in an upward direction

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I know just the spot you're talking about. I've definitely used it, but the gassers I've messed with also had some sort of mark on the crank pulley or gear for reference...just to let you know when you are close while your rotating the crank...You watch that mark and at least you know your within one revolution of TDC. Maybe the TDI has something like that too. At 350,000 miles, this thing has surely had at least one new flywheel...maybe an aftermarket...I wonder if all flywheels have the witness marks? I'll be letting you know soon enough. haha.

The slot you are talking about...that's seen by removing the vacuum pump, right? Can I see it without pulling the VP?

jmodge said:

The flywheel mark can be hard to find, I ink marked mine. I also ink. marked a line on both sides of that mark, orange on one side and green on the other. And then an orange and green dot on each side of the inspection hole so that by whatever color is showing on the flywheel I know which way to rotate it to find the timing mark. The slot in the cam is where the lock slides into and sits on the machined surface where the valve cover mates to the head

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Yes! That's why I was wondering about any mark around the crank pulley. It could take a little time. I can pull the valve cover first I suppose and look at the cam lobes to know when I'm getting close. I'll find it.

I like the idea of the colored marks to each side of the TDC line. I'll remember that.

Will an ALH run if the t-belt is off a tooth? Is one tooth guaranteed valve/piston contact? Just curious. If it will not run a tooth out, this engine must be in time, because it did start and idle for a short bit. I don't have any way of knowing how the IP timing is though.

I wouldn’t worry about the timing of the injection pump if it started, But there is an opening in the coupler that the pulley bolts to, and the pin is slid through that into a hole in the pump casting. I don’t know how many degrees the cam can be out before contact, I plan on checking out one of these days. I have a spare engine on a stand. There may be a mark on the crank pulley, but I don’t know. I put an ink dot on that also

And you do have to pull the vacuum pump to view the slot

Ok, I have another question. I have mentioned that after emptying the cylinders of whatever had at least one of the hydrolocked, the car ran for a little bit then died. It restarted with some cranking, and idled for about half of the time that it did the first time. Is it possible that there was enough residual fluid in the cylinders that combusted and allowed the engine to start and idle? Is it possible that there was enough left in there that it could actually run for 15 seconds? If so, maybe the injectors aren't injecting...maybe this was the initial problem...for the PO... But I don't know if residual fluid could be enough to idle that long. What do you all think? I just wonder if that would explain why it wouldn't start back… Honestly, it seems like it would take a good deal of fuel/fluid to idle 15 seconds, and it seems like that might be enough to hydrolock rather than allow rotation. I think that with atomized fuel, the combustion chamber is normally cleaned out with each compression stroke, but if there had been a cylinder full of fluid, would one full compression stroke be able to clear it all, or would it take many compression strokes to finally use it all up? Are there ECU conditions that control the pull-in solenoid on the IP, or is it strictly control by ignition power? I'm really starting to think that the engine was running on what was left in the cylinders. That might explain the lack of pedal response as well as not being able to restart afterward. Am I just way off here???