safe solvent to dump into turbo that will dissolve/clean carbon yet safe for seals

most effective solvent to dump into turbo that will clean carbon yet safe for seals

Turbo/exhaust manifold is off car.

The first turbo I cracked the housing trying to get open. these Canadian turbos eventually get to the point where they fuse together and are practically impossible to get open.

This second turbo I bought used I managed to get the vane lever moving spraying pb blaster. The problem is it still occasionally sticks a bit at the top every now and then when I play with it back and forth.

I have found that if you shove a few garbage bags into the exhaust ports and have the turbine side up you can pour in a solvent into the housing and it sits there without draining because the bags block the solvent from pouring out.

So far I've used diesel fuel for this purpose and it seems like it's done somewhat of a good job.

My question is what's the BEST solvent to dissolve carbon and yet be safe on the seals that are in there.

I don't want to mess this turbo up and bother trying to crack it (I did give it a go but really didn't push it because of what happened with the other turbo) because this one has very minimal shaft play and zero horizontal play and seems to still have lots of life and I got a really good deal (think I paid 120).

I figure I get it good enough then I do the oven cleaner thing once I have it in the car.

(btw in regards to the turbo I mangled. just for ****s and giggles to see if I could force it open I wrigged it up to my 2 ton hoist and chained the housing to it and the other half to the bottom legs.... but instead of it giving way and opening the manifold cracked in two.... just to show illustrate how fricken fused the housing was. )

I've had good luck with outboard spray de-carbonizers. Yamaha, OMC, and Valvetech make them. Good luck, John

Biodiesel is a great solvent, but don't know if there are any negatives using it for the turbo.

jjblbi said:

I've had good luck with outboard spray de-carbonizers. Yamaha, OMC, and Valvetech make them. Good luck, John

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is it safe for the seals?... I can't mess those seals up and have oil bypass them.

If turbo is on engine already: Easy-off method worked great for me, just last week. I would suggest finding a nozzle/red hose to extend your application behind the turbine wheel, so it hits the vane section. Remove vac actuator too, and move VNT lever by hand frequently, let the easy off work itself into turbine for an hour (longer for very sticky/completely stuck VNT vanes).

Benefits:
Brought my boost spikes down from 18/19 psi(hard rolling launch in 2nd gear WOT) to 15 psi, settling quickly at 13 or so. It also now spools sooner in low load/speed situations.

I was skeptical too; applying such a harsh cleaner to the turbo. But it really does work.

However! IF, I already had the turbo removed/disassembled, I would clean the vane mechanism manually with a brush along with a gentle cleaner like dawn, continuing to a stronger liquid like greased lightning/purple power if needed and water to flush it out periodically, then compressed air to blow dry it.

PSA: Oven cleaner eats human skin, ask me how I know, lol. I'm dumb.

e84 said:

is it safe for the seals?... I can't mess those seals up and have oil bypass them.

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The seals are actually metal like little piston rings so no, you wont damage them easily at all. Innotec amongst others actually make a kit, fluid stuff, you block the exhaust and fill the turbo exhaust side with the stuff, let it sit then drain and drive. Not sure what the chemical is they use though.

Yep! Seatman is correct, no rubber seals to worry about!

Hope this works for you!

Seatman said:

The seals are actually metal like little piston rings so no, you wont damage them easily at all. Innotec amongst others actually make a kit, fluid stuff, you block the exhaust and fill the turbo exhaust side with the stuff, let it sit then drain and drive. Not sure what the chemical is they use though.

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Thank you man exactly the info I was looking for.

That is what I've been doing blocking the exhaust ports... So far I've filled the housing with pb blaster and diesel fuel. While the liquid is sitting there I agitate the vanes by moving the vane lever back and forth rapidly.

Rafedial1 said:

PSA: Oven cleaner eats human skin

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You aren't the only one!

When you are cleaning the turbo vanes and ring in things it is a hard carbon base stuff that stick them.

The Oven cleaner has worked well for me, but remember it is heat activated ?
When I do it on the car part of a actuator install. I do it with it a bit hot or heat it up and move the arm a few minutes.
If you flood it with it I do not know what it would do to the brass bushings on the shaft?