www.tdiclub.com

Economy - Longevity - Performance
The #1 Source of TDI Information on the Web!
Forums Articles Links Meets
Orders TDI Club Cards TDIFest 2016 Gone, but not forgotten VAG-Com List Unit Conversions TDIClub Chat Thank You




Go Back   TDIClub Forums > VW TDI Discussion Areas > TDI Power Enhancements

TDI Power Enhancements Discussions about increasing the power of your TDI engine. i.e. chips, injectors, powerboxes, clutches, etc. Handling, suspensions, wheels, type discussion should be put into the "Upgrades (non TDI Engine related)" forum. Non TDI vehicle related postings will be moved or removed. Please note the Performance Disclaimer.

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old July 31st, 2017, 09:46   #31
smelly621
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Sonoma County, CA
Default

With your current level of boost, the max you have planned and only being in a sidekick it's likely not worth the additional work to go with upgraded pistons and rods. I thought this was in a larger Toyota truck with armor etc. - must be mixing your user name up with someone else.

There are a number of the 1.9PD motors that pistons can be borrowed from. You do need to run tapered small end rods with them and adjust the oil sprayers or change them out to the corresponding PD ones the point in the right location.

Read Digital Corpus's build thread for more good details on an AHU build up if you determine you need more ummmf from your motor.
smelly621 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 31st, 2017, 12:40   #32
TDI-T
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Dry part of the NW
TDI(s): 97 AHU
Default

Do I do the Intermediate shaft bearing while I am in there?
TDI-T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 31st, 2017, 18:16   #33
andy2
Veteran Member
 
andy2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Bowmanville,Ont,Canada
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TDI-T View Post
Tons of great info here. Thank you. Is it possible that having that flex plate loose could hurt the bearings? I ask because it seems to have taken out the rear main seal....
While I don't remember doing it, I just can't believe I didn't torque those bolts AND have loctite on them. Not sure why they came loose.
I'd say that the leaking crank seal was possikly a separate issue.I've had loose flywheel bolts at 9000 rpm on one of my TDI's and not had any bearing or seal issues. The longer ACME supplied bolts in my kit I think were part of the reason that helped loosen them off.

Most TDI swaps into Suzuki's are likely with stock powered TDI's or even old IDI's.Once you make more torque and/or Hp then there is a possibility for things to come loose.

Quote:
Originally Posted by smelly621 View Post
With your current level of boost, the max you have planned and only being in a sidekick it's likely not worth the additional work to go with upgraded pistons and rods. I thought this was in a larger Toyota truck with armor etc. - must be mixing your user name up with someone else.
Being the owner of a cranked up TDI powered Suzuki I take offense to this .

To the OP,I still run an unopened AHU bottom end without cyl head removed @ 190-210 hp and 35 psi boost for years now.I only added head studs and stronger aftermarket gasser dual valve springs.

The bottom end is currently not 100 % and lacking compression however it still makes more power than ever after adding an intercooler and a second turbo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TDI-T View Post
Do I do the Intermediate shaft bearing while I am in there?
If the oil pressure was acceptable before the crank replacement then I might skip replacing the IM shaft bearings.Wouldn't hurt to have a look at the oil pump and drive tang on the vaccum pump to see if they are in good condition if you have not looked at it before.

Last edited by andy2; July 31st, 2017 at 18:24.
andy2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 1st, 2017, 08:44   #34
TDI-T
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Dry part of the NW
TDI(s): 97 AHU
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by andy2 View Post
I'd say that the leaking crank seal was possikly a separate issue.I've had loose flywheel bolts at 9000 rpm on one of my TDI's and not had any bearing or seal issues. The longer ACME supplied bolts in my kit I think were part of the reason that helped loosen them off.
Thanks! Did you use regular blue loctite? I found those ARP bolts for about $36.

The worst part of this conversion x2 is grinding the nub off another crank....
TDI-T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 1st, 2017, 11:29   #35
smelly621
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Sonoma County, CA
Default

Andy - not a dig on the "worth" of a sidekick - merely a complement on the svelte weight of the zook vs. say my 4000lb empty Toyota.

You and the OP have me nervous now about my flywheel bolts. I used the ACME supplied ones with blue loctite. I think I torqued to the spec Jeff had in the adapter plate instructions. If I have the trans off for anything else soon would you advise using red loctite or upgrading to an ARP fastener?

Is crank nub grinding another AHU specific thing? I don't recall any mods to the crank required for the ACME setup?
smelly621 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 1st, 2017, 11:54   #36
TDI-T
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Dry part of the NW
TDI(s): 97 AHU
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by smelly621 View Post
Is crank nub grinding another AHU specific thing? I don't recall any mods to the crank required for the ACME setup?
My instructions say to take the rear bit (area that protrudes that is inside the diameter of the bolt holes) of the crank down to 5/32". Perhaps because you have a Yota kit?

Last edited by TDI-T; August 1st, 2017 at 12:09.
TDI-T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 2nd, 2017, 08:51   #37
smelly621
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Sonoma County, CA
Default

Must be the difference. Haven't seen any builds on here with the zuk auto transmission I guess.

Does the flexplate rest against the ground down crank snout? If so, I could see how slight imperfections there after the grinding could lead to the bolts working loose over time.
smelly621 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 2nd, 2017, 09:35   #38
TDI-T
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Dry part of the NW
TDI(s): 97 AHU
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by smelly621 View Post
Must be the difference. Haven't seen any builds on here with the zuk auto transmission I guess.
Does the flexplate rest against the ground down crank snout? If so, I could see how slight imperfections there after the grinding could lead to the bolts working loose over time.
I'm pretty sure you need to do this with a manual, too. I'll let Andy2 confirm, but my instructions are for both.

I agree on the imperfections. The kit includes an adapter that sits flush, but anything is possible.
TDI-T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 2nd, 2017, 18:37   #39
andy2
Veteran Member
 
andy2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Bowmanville,Ont,Canada
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by smelly621 View Post
Andy - not a dig on the "worth" of a sidekick - merely a complement on the svelte weight of the zook vs. say my 4000lb empty Toyota.

You and the OP have me nervous now about my flywheel bolts. I used the ACME supplied ones with blue loctite. I think I torqued to the spec Jeff had in the adapter plate instructions. If I have the trans off for anything else soon would you advise using red loctite or upgrading to an ARP fastener?

Is crank nub grinding another AHU specific thing? I don't recall any mods to the crank required for the ACME setup?
Thanks for the clarification.I didn't mean to assume

I'm not sure if the crank grinding is only for the AHU or not.I'm guessing that it might need to be done to any crankshaft for any Suzuki trans that ACME mates to a VW.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TDI-T View Post
I'm pretty sure you need to do this with a manual, too. I'll let Andy2 confirm, but my instructions are for both.

I agree on the imperfections. The kit includes an adapter that sits flush, but anything is possible.
Shortening the crank nose is just done for clearance.The flywheel or flexplate adapter should still sit square/true on the crankshaft after the mod.

I'm sure that I used blue locktite when I put mine back together.We made a crankshaft to flexplate adapter for my TH350 flexplate when adapting it and I'm pretty sure that I just used new torque to yeild VW Style bolts with additional blue locktie when assembling.

I could have bought another set of arp's but must have figured that they weren't necessary.

I don't like the longer than factory VW bolts that are used in some of these swaps.

It would be worth re checking that your adapter is sitting flush with the new crankshaft just in case there is a clearance issue.I'm almost 100% sure that the ALH crankshaft/sprocket/bolt is direct swap to to older AHU/1Z.I know someone that has put the ALH crank into the AHU however his had a mechanical fuel injection pump.Not sure if the 1Z/AHU crank trigger wheel is the same or equivalent to the ALH ?
andy2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 3rd, 2017, 09:37   #40
TDI-T
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Dry part of the NW
TDI(s): 97 AHU
Default

Just heard back from the machine shop. He said my "new to me" crank will polish up to standard.

I'm not planning on removing the head. Just some new bearings and bolts all around. This will be my first time doing bearings myself. I plan on using some Lucas break-in lube on the bearing surfaces and trying to be extra ordinarily clean in my garage.

I have to get brand new adapter items from ACME. The old ones are far too gone. A transmission shop recommended that I use a dial indicator and put the torque converter on it without the transmission to make sure it is within .002 of wobble. Could this catastrosphe have hurt my torque converter?

I'll have to learn/mess with the dial indicator I guess. I'm also going to try some ARPs for the flex plate to crank, Andy2. My oil pump had great pressure and there were only 168,000 miles on the engine so I may not touch it. Andy2, you said check it and the vacuum pump. Do you mean the clearance check? I think I saw that in the FSM.

Sound like a plan?

Last edited by TDI-T; August 3rd, 2017 at 09:53.
TDI-T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 3rd, 2017, 16:10   #41
smelly621
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Sonoma County, CA
Default

Sounds reasonable to me given all the circumstances. Not sure about the Zuk transmission version of the adapter plate - but the Toyota one is definitely not anywhere near centered out of the box. The advice to dial indicate the crank centerline is wise - but I am not sure exactly how you will do that with your transmission.

To do so on the Toyota trans I borrowed a cut-off slice of a w56 trans case from Jimbote - then bolted that to my transmission bellhousing and then assembled the whole rig to the motor.

I attached my dial indicator mag base to a flat area on the flywheel, then indicated on the input bearing opening on the transmission slice. Much adjustment was required to get within acceptable specs. Obviously this is much easier with the engine on a hoist than in the vehicle.

If you do some google image searching for "dial indicate crank center" there are lots of good visuals of how the old hot rod crowd has done it over the years. It helped me understand how to set things up.
smelly621 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 3rd, 2017, 19:01   #42
TDI-T
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Dry part of the NW
TDI(s): 97 AHU
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by smelly621 View Post
To do so on the Toyota trans I borrowed a cut-off slice of a w56 trans case from Jimbote - then bolted that to my transmission bellhousing and then assembled the whole rig to the motor.
I attached my dial indicator mag base to a flat area on the flywheel, then indicated on the input bearing opening on the transmission slice. Much adjustment was required to get within acceptable specs. Obviously this is much easier with the engine on a hoist than in the vehicle.
If you do some google image searching for "dial indicate crank center" there are lots of good visuals of how the old hot rod crowd has done it over the years. It helped me understand how to set things up.
I suppose I could separate the bellhousing from the auto transmission pump. The auto trans on these are used in quite a few vehicles - Yotas, Mitsus, Izuzu's, Volvo's... The bell housings are just different.
At bit of a PIA, but I really don't want to have the same problem again. I'll try to find some images like you recommend. I'm trying to visualize it, but I need some pics like you mentioned.
Andy2, I would like to know what turbo you are running?! 35 psi? Woah.
TDI-T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 5th, 2017, 13:23   #43
andy2
Veteran Member
 
andy2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Bowmanville,Ont,Canada
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TDI-T View Post
Just heard back from the machine shop. He said my "new to me" crank will polish up to standard.

I'm not planning on removing the head. Just some new bearings and bolts all around. This will be my first time doing bearings myself. I plan on using some Lucas break-in lube on the bearing surfaces and trying to be extra ordinarily clean in my garage.

I have to get brand new adapter items from ACME. The old ones are far too gone. A transmission shop recommended that I use a dial indicator and put the torque converter on it without the transmission to make sure it is within .002 of wobble. Could this catastrosphe have hurt my torque converter?

I'll have to learn/mess with the dial indicator I guess. I'm also going to try some ARPs for the flex plate to crank, Andy2. My oil pump had great pressure and there were only 168,000 miles on the engine so I may not touch it. Andy2, you said check it and the vacuum pump. Do you mean the clearance check? I think I saw that in the FSM.

Sound like a plan?
Its quite possible that the converter and or transmission could be damaged.

Here is a great post showing what I was trying to explain about the oil and vacuum pump.

https://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost....3&postcount=11
andy2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 6th, 2017, 11:07   #44
TDI-T
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Dry part of the NW
TDI(s): 97 AHU
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by andy2 View Post
Here is a great post showing what I was trying to explain about the oil and vacuum pump.
https://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost....3&postcount=11
Gotcha. So make sure there is not too much bow tie. Funny enough I think I stumbled across that post the other day. Thanks for taking the time to post it.
After reading posts regarding "integral thrust" do and don'ts on the Kolbenschmidt bearings I'm leaning away from them. I've been looking at bearing posts for days it seems. I'm honestly thinking of just getting this kit:
http://www.idparts.com/engine-block-...1z-p-2951.html
There are some savings by getting it all together. I wasn't going to do an oil pump, but it comes with.
Anyone tried this kit?
TDI-T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 11th, 2017, 10:29   #45
turbovan+tdi
Veteran Member
 
turbovan+tdi's Avatar
Default

The only way the TC could be damaged is if the hub walked on the adapter and got egg shaped or machined down etc. Inspect for damage.
__________________
1984 6.2 Diesel Get A Way van, remote turbo setup designed/installed by me, burning anything that burns.
2003 GSW, 2.0L ALH, Colt Cam, 1756 turbo, auto, silver, 380k-Wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, blue, 5 speed-DD-Malone stage 2, no kitty, aeroturbine muffler, PD150's.
2003 JSW 1.8T future TDI, silver. 2006 JSW, TDI 5 speed, blue.
turbovan+tdi is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Free crank pulley holder tool for torquing crank bolt Shawn MacAnanny VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs 2 June 15th, 2017 19:09
timing belt install problem crank moving Victorjay VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) 9 February 16th, 2015 11:34
Want to RENT crank lock and crank seal install tools sangretdi Private TDI Items for Sale/Wanted 3 October 10th, 2013 11:17
bent lower crank pulley? crank snout problems?? 1997 ahu samuraitd TDI 101 13 March 31st, 2013 17:30
Crank Seal Removal/Install Tools BEW ninedee_golf_tdi VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) 12 April 23rd, 2011 15:26


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 22:49.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright - TDIClub Online LTD - 2017
Contact Us | Privacy Statement | Forum Rules | Disclaimer
TDIClub Online Ltd (TDIClub.com) is not affiliated with the VWoA or VWAG and is supported by contributions from viewers like you.
1996 - 2017, All Rights Reserved
Page generated in 0.14806 seconds with 11 queries
[Output: 136.08 Kb. compressed to 114.96 Kb. by saving 21.12 Kb. (15.52%)]