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TDI Power Enhancements Discussions about increasing the power of your TDI engine. i.e. chips, injectors, powerboxes, clutches, etc. Handling, suspensions, wheels, type discussion should be put into the "Upgrades (non TDI Engine related)" forum. Non TDI vehicle related postings will be moved or removed. Please note the Performance Disclaimer.

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Old July 28th, 2017, 16:22   #16
jmodge
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My bad on the crank replacement in car comment, thinking of V-8's, oops, sorry.

Would be cheap insurance to slide pieces of rubber hose over your rod bolts as soon as the caps come off to keep from scratching the crank.
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Old July 28th, 2017, 16:27   #17
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Another thought, weather you want to try or trust it. I have plugged holes, not in a crank, by tapping and running a bolt in(don't run threads all the way through so you can bottom the bolt), cut the bolt and redrill and tap new holes.
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Old July 28th, 2017, 18:44   #18
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Originally Posted by jmodge View Post
Another thought, weather you want to try or trust it. I have plugged holes, not in a crank, by tapping and running a bolt in(don't run threads all the way through so you can bottom the bolt), cut the bolt and redrill and tap new holes.
The cranks holes are pretty messed up. Plus two bolts broke off in the crank holes. Think oblong on the other holes. I torqued them, used blue loctite, but they still came loose. Next time I may use red loctite.

I thought hard about trying to use it again, but the time it will take to drill out and get those broken bolts off made me just find a new crank. I could go with bigger bolts in the VW crank, but my flex plate leaves little room for bigger bolts.

Maybe I will post a pic so you can see if you are curious.

Last edited by TDI-T; July 28th, 2017 at 18:53.
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Old July 28th, 2017, 18:46   #19
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Originally Posted by smelly621 View Post
If you go that far - might be worth your while to install some pistons with better oil cooling channels - I think that's one of the most important upgrades on a motor that's been swapped into a significantly heavier vehicle. Also think about a larger oil/coolant heat exchanger while you're at it.
Which pistons would you recommend if I decide to spend some serious $$?
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Old July 28th, 2017, 18:46   #20
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What's with leaving out the details about what this is swapped into?
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Old July 29th, 2017, 12:03   #21
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Which pistons would you recommend if I decide to spend some serious $$?
The PD engines got the better oiling pistons but what boost are you running? RPM?
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Old July 29th, 2017, 12:53   #22
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BHW 0.5 oversize pistons if you want to go with the biggest and baddest.
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Old July 29th, 2017, 14:48   #23
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I have an AHU block bored and decked ready to drop in a set of BHW 81mm pistons for that application.
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Old July 30th, 2017, 10:05   #24
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Originally Posted by turbovan+tdi View Post
The PD engines got the better oiling pistons but what boost are you running? RPM?
My rpm's are usually pretty low being a 4x4. I hit 3000 and above, but usually not for long. Mostly they stay at 2k or a little higher.

I still need to get my boost tightened up. I can only get 12 psi or so. I'm told I should be able to get 20+ easy with this turbo. I'd like to run around 20 - 23 psi as I think that is what I have read is the limit on internals.

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Old July 30th, 2017, 10:16   #25
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Can I use a micrometer to determine if my crank needs to be ground? I've got some manuals so hopefully they will tell me the tolerances to check on the bearings as well.

Unless someone knows them offhand...

I'm leaning toward new bolts, new thrust bearings, new mains and rod bearings and calling it good. From what I've read people seem to recommend Kolbenschmidt bearings. I will not go ARP as I don't want to do a line hone.

Any strong advice regarding why I may not want to go this route?

Last edited by TDI-T; July 30th, 2017 at 10:21.
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Old July 30th, 2017, 10:17   #26
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Originally Posted by All Stock View Post
I have an AHU block bored and decked ready to drop in a set of BHW 81mm pistons for that application.

PM me with a price if you are looking to sell.
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Old July 30th, 2017, 10:43   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDI-T View Post
Can I use a micrometer to determine if my crank needs to be ground? I've got some manuals so hopefully they will tell me the tolerances to check on the bearings as well.

Unless someone knows them offhand...

I'm leaning toward new bolts, new thrust bearings, new mains and rod bearings and calling it good. From what I've read people seem to recommend Kolbenschmidt bearings. I will not go ARP as I don't want to do a line hone.

Any strong advice regarding why I may not want to go this route?
Someone will dig up the tolerances. As far as clearance goes, you can mic the journal and there should be a spec for that. Then install the bearing in the cap and use a innermic or telescoping gauge. Or go with plastigauge after assembly. But by using the mics at least you know which size bearings to put in in the first place.
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Old July 30th, 2017, 18:13   #28
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I'd be more than tempted to leave the main bearings alone and just replace the bolts and rod bearings if needed.Replacing the main bearings without checking/correcting a possible journal misalignment could create a new problem.I've seen those 028 blocks have misaligned main bearing journals.

I had the flywheel to crank bolts come loose on my acme TDI swap.They weren't falling out but they had loosened up.I only came across this as I was swapping out the trans for an auto and had to remove the flywheel.

I have used some arp bolts (#524-2801) from a ford 4.6/5.4L flywheel application on my other TDI that used a flywheel from spec clutch.They were a perfect replacement for the stock length vw bolts.I also doweled the crank to flywheel in that case as the flywheel had friction welded itself to the crankshaft when the bolts came loose.

From what I remember the acme flywheel bolts in my case were longer than the factory vw ones so the ford ARP ones I mentioned might not be long enough depending on the flywheel/flexplate being used.
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Old July 30th, 2017, 21:20   #29
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I'd be more than tempted to leave the main bearings alone and just replace the bolts and rod bearings if needed.Replacing the main bearings without checking/correcting a possible journal misalignment could create a new problem.I've seen those 028 blocks have misaligned main bearing journals.
I had the flywheel to crank bolts come loose on my acme TDI swap.They weren't falling out but they had loosened up.I only came across this as I was swapping out the trans for an auto and had to remove the flywheel.
I have used some arp bolts (#524-2801) from a ford 4.6/5.4L flywheel application on my other TDI that used a flywheel from spec clutch.They were a perfect replacement for the stock length vw bolts.I also doweled the crank to flywheel in that case as the flywheel had friction welded itself to the crankshaft when the bolts came loose.
From what I remember the acme flywheel bolts in my case were longer than the factory vw ones so the ford ARP ones I mentioned might not be long enough depending on the flywheel/flexplate being used.
Tons of great info here. Thank you. Is it possible that having that flex plate loose could hurt the bearings? I ask because it seems to have taken out the rear main seal....
While I don't remember doing it, I just can't believe I didn't torque those bolts AND have loctite on them. Not sure why they came loose.
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Old July 31st, 2017, 08:36   #30
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Yes, very possible, with the out of balance factor. If it was me, I would look the mains over before pulling the crank. If everything is ok, possibly pull crank and repair holes? I don't if I would put the old bearings on another crank. PM oilhammer on that. Seems to be a pretty accomplished mechanic on these TDI's
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