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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old February 13th, 2017, 15:33   #16
Mikkijayne
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Looks like a lawnmower engine tucked away in that huge engine bay
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Old February 13th, 2017, 18:35   #17
CF-FZD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uberhare View Post
Nice plane Send me the coordinates of your strip and I'll "drop" in to check out your truck in the spring!
I keep the airplane at CNY4 Alliston, 2200' of grass. The planes is my mistress, I spend money and time with her and have lots of fun.

It's a 1947 Luscombe 8E, 85hp seats 2 and cruises at 108mph on 20L/hr.
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Old February 15th, 2017, 18:09   #18
CF-FZD
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Progress report.
I have the air filter and intake sorted out. This is a paper filter from a Polaris RZR 800 with a K&N prefilter bag. I think this will filter more dirt then just a K&N.

I welded up the exhaust from the GTB Flange its 3" mandrel bent alumanized steel a 4" long flex, no muffler and it exits just ahead of the passengers side rear tire. I'll put some exhaust wrap around the first few feet to keep the underhood temps down.
The fuel system is also done, a 4psi lift pump is mounted on the frame. A new stock type filter mounted on the inner fender and a return line to the tank.
Next I have to make the boost pipes.

Last edited by CF-FZD; February 15th, 2017 at 18:16.
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Old February 23rd, 2017, 05:05   #19
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A preview of what it will look like under the hood when it all done. I borrowed the engine cover from my DD in the driveway.




I've managed to get a few things finished this week. The cooling system is complete and took 8L of water/coolant so far. I haven't turned the engine over so I'm sure it will take another 4-8L when the engine is full. The only suitable hose could find locally that would fit on the engine barbs was 1.25 marine exhaust hose. It's quite stiff and has a wire in it to help keep the shape. I made some adapters 1.25" -2" with steel hose barb fittings I cut and welded. It has been holding 10psi in the system for a couple hours it should be good to go.

I cut the and tacked 2.25" stainless pipes for using the intercooler plumbing. I was given a few odd bits with mandrel bends on each end. A lot of cutting and test fitting I'm happy with the way they will run. But I discovered I really suck a tig welding. I'll have to wait for a friend to come over and show me how to do it.

My next big task is the engine wiring, it really shouldn't be that bad with the help of the wiring sticky on this forum. My computer should be back in a few days from Malone. Stage 5 with everything deleted.
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Old February 23rd, 2017, 05:22   #20
Gordon Peterson
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Looking good. Hey if you want a 7 hr drive this fall come to our gtg in Rockford MI in late Sept or early October. Bring that beautiful truck and we will have two old f100's there to see.
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Old February 23rd, 2017, 11:41   #21
1.9ZOOK
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A nice blend of old and new!
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Old February 23rd, 2017, 21:42   #22
smelly621
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Looking good!

I like the looks of the radiator hose. It may just be the engine cover in place blocking the view but it looks like the "cold" side is running to the top of the rad (or rather, opposite the stock direction). Is there any issue with running it like this?
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Old February 23rd, 2017, 22:22   #23
1.9ZOOK
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When I first plumbed mine I didn't realize it is a reverse flow,so I switched
the hoses and it actually runs a few degrees hotter now.
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Old February 24th, 2017, 21:17   #24
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Hey thats a great Idea using that marine hose.
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Old March 5th, 2017, 06:25   #25
CF-FZD
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Making progress, I've started the engine in the truck the wiring to make it run is complete. I still need to figure out where the alternator wires go (other then the big wire). I'm not planning to use the VW glow plug relay at this point, I'll just wire up a big relay and a push button under the dash for the few times I'll need to use the glow plugs to start it. I'll probably make a small hidden switch panel under the dash to turn a few circuits on/off because I can't really drill any holes in the 50 year old dash to instal a switch.

The cooling hose may be on wrong but I don't think so. The top rad hose goes to the port on the back (trans) side of the engine and the bottom rad hose goes to the port under the injection pomp. Is that correct? Where should I place a temp sensor for my cooling fan circuit again not using the VW system? I'll drill and tap a hole in the steel hose adapter I made. I assume the hot water goes in the bottom and out the top so I would think that if the temp on the cool side of the rad gets to 90C or so I'll have the fans turn on. I really don't think I'll need the fans that often, it has a rad about twice the size of the Jetta and should get lots of air flow. I don't think the engine could keep all that water above 100C without a significant load demand, and certainly not at idle when not moving. My daily driver ALH will never kick the fans on at idle.

Feel free to let me know where to locate a simple cooling fan trigger signal in the harness and I'll set up a the fan relay there instead.

I dropped off the trans yoke at the drive shaft shop to have them make a brand new driveshaft. It's a Toyota yoke with an adapter U-joint (Toyota-1310) 61" joint to joint of 3" shaft he says should be good for 600hp+ to a 1310 U-joint for the Ford 9" rear end. About $400😕.
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Old March 5th, 2017, 11:39   #26
1.9ZOOK
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Yep,the hose coming out the back of engine goes to the top of radiator.
Some day I will make this look better,not sure if this is the best place to put it but I put the temp sensor here and it works fine and WAY more accurate than the stock gauge.

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Old March 5th, 2017, 12:04   #27
Dieselmonkey02
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I love the old Fords, grew up on a stable of them. Find that 352 a loving home, they were supposed to be one of the best running Ford engines of that era and a good while after. The mid to late '70s was my mainstay. Messed around with a few older ones some. I think the FEs were around 800 lbs, so a bt 4 wouldn't be far off. The FEs are super rare around my neck of the woods nowadays.
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Old March 5th, 2017, 14:50   #28
CF-FZD
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I removed a perfectly good 352FE with a 3 speed auto and sold it. $700 for everything, it was only rated at 175hp and burned 25L/100km. 800 pounds of steel I didn't want. The idea of a 4bt is ok but the rpm range is really small and they are super heavy for the amount of power they make. I'll see how the ALH works out if I'm not happy the truck will get a Chev LS or 5.0 Coyote.
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Old March 5th, 2017, 16:38   #29
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Great build and you'll be fine with that engine, the truck weigh's what a Jetta weighs.

The thermostat hose goes to the bottom of the rad. Not sure I'd use that hose, that plastic thermostat housing isn't very strong and over time, I can see the hose weight and lack of flex causing it to snap off.

Flex a Lite makes a thermocouple fan kit for turning on electric fans. Used them many times and they work great.


https://www.flex-a-lite.com/accessor...ontroller.html
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Old March 5th, 2017, 17:44   #30
1.9ZOOK
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^
That's what I'm using,have it dialed in at 185,just before the
T-stat opens.I put the probe inside the top radiator hose at the
inlet.
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