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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > VW TDI Discussion Areas > TDI Power Enhancements

TDI Power Enhancements Discussions about increasing the power of your TDI engine. i.e. chips, injectors, powerboxes, clutches, etc. Handling, suspensions, wheels, type discussion should be put into the "Upgrades (non TDI Engine related)" forum. Non TDI vehicle related postings will be moved or removed. Please note the Performance Disclaimer.

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Old November 22nd, 2016, 08:52   #1
FraggyTDI
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Hello All,

My name is Chadwick and I just came into possession of a 2003 Golf with 280k miles on it. I traded a dirt bike for it so as far as I'm concerned it's a good deal. The vehicle body is in steller shape for it's age not a spec of rust and only some very small dings in the body.

I'm starting this thread to track the progression of this build and to hopefully provide guidance and a what to and not to do for others in this forum. Now I'm no professional engine builder but this will be my 3rd engine tear down and rebuild. My first being a 2.0T Audi which when I started this engine tear down it was a breeze as it's essentially the same setup as the 2.0. It took me about 6 hours to pull the engine and strip is down the engine to bare bones.

Currently everything is disassembled and the block is at the machine shop for a bore and hone. The cylinder head is disassembled and cleaned. I've now began porting/cleaning. Basically everything will be replaced on this engine.

My overall goal, create a reliable stout engine that provides fun and good gas millage. Goal hp is around 300+ obviously with higher horsepower I start to sacrifice reliability but I will access so risk as they come.

Game plan:
Cylinderhead
Rebuild head
New valves
Upgraded cam (still in decision Frank06 or Colt)
Ported
New Cam followers
ARP head studs
Considering getting cam and followers cryo'd out of curiosity

Block
.5mm overbore
honed
hot tanked
Decked (will move up to 3 hole gasket)
Painted
New Nural AHL pistons (This may be a weak point that needs to be accessed)
IE Rods Rifle drilled
New bearings all around
ARP Mains
Girdle
BRM Oil sprocket
New oil chain and tensioner
New seals all around

Transmission
Ryan P 6-speed swap
LSD
HD Clutch

Performance
Upgraded Nozzles (dependent on Turbo)
GTB 2260-2566VK (Still deciding need to run numbers)
Upgraded Intake (not sure what to get here, might design my own)
FMIC or Water to air cooler\
3" exhaust to dual 2.25" out the rear

Suspension
Koni SRT's
New balljoints
TT bushings
New tie rods

Body
Wrapped or painted Nardo Grey

Avant Garde wheels

Engine will be painted to match wheel color

So this is my Goal I'm building this car to be with me for life and I know it's going to cost a lot in some respect but considering I was just about to buy a $22K audi that I would of dropped money into as well I feel I'm saving myself money and getting exactly what I want. I might of missed some things. I'll update this thread as I progress. My goal is to be hopefully running by the time the snow melts. Not complete with everything but engine and tranny in so I can begin the break in period.

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Old November 22nd, 2016, 09:39   #2
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This is a alh right? Might want to add an 11m pump to the list.
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Old November 22nd, 2016, 10:06   #3
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Old November 22nd, 2016, 10:40   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Exenos View Post
This is a alh right? Might want to add an 11m pump to the list.
Already got it since it was an automatic
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Old November 22nd, 2016, 10:48   #5
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Old November 22nd, 2016, 13:33   #6
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I would strongly recommend a more stout short block out of a BEW/BRM/BHW as a solid base for your project, which would already address some of the mods in your engine list, e.g. upgraded oiling, larger bore (BHW), plus give the bonus of larger bearing journals and tapered conrod small ends.

In any case, if you're going to do any cylinder boring, don't waste your time and money on only +0.5mm, go for 81.5mm BHW pistons with much better oil cooling galleys.

300+ HP is still considered bleeding edge for a VE TDI. Your required turbo and fuel injection equipment to support that power level will definitely compromise low-end spool and torque in a single stage, plus be quite smoky. This is an excellent candidate project for a 2-stage turbo system. A PD will get you to your power goals more easily, or you could chart new territory on CR, either based on the 09+ Dieselgate-affected engines or retrofit to a VE as I have proposed elsewhere.
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Old November 22nd, 2016, 14:01   #7
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@tdi Miester
What is the failure on the ALH? How many people have actually done it? If it's from block flex then I'm hoping the girdle will assist that. As far as oiling goes I'm hoping the updated sprocket will provide me with what I want. However what are the main oiling points that suffer? As far as tapered rods go they are only helping with piston strength which if I were to go to the ASV pistons that would probably eliminate that problem.

As far as the bore goes, I'm keeping it to VW specs and only doing it to provide a clean bore and hone for the new build not for the displacement.

As much fun as it would be to go sequential I don't think that's my goal on this project. It's not a race car and 300+ is just a goal if I make it sweet if not well I tried and will have a ton of fun getting there. Maybe I'll push at a later date to move to that. I appreciate the input. I will evaluate them and see what's available out there. I'm still early in the build and have very little investment. This is why I created the build thread to get the eyes from others who have had experience with it.
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Old November 22nd, 2016, 14:12   #8
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No failure per se, but the later engines have had evolutionary improvements just like the ALH had improvements over the 1Z/AHU. The weaknesses become more evident as you push the performance envelope, and 300+ HP is definitely pushing if you don't want a throwaway dyno/drag queen build.

I'm looking for the best bang for your buck invested, and all I'm saying that most of the things you want to do will already be covered in large part with a newer shortblock, and OE parts are not always considered inferior to aftermarket!! I'm sure you can find a BEW/BRM/BHW with an eaten camshaft for a song. You can put an ported ALH head over such a short block or stick to the PD platform.

ASV/oversize ALH pistons - total waste of money in light of other available options IMNSHO.

Two-stage turbocharging is not for racecars, in fact IMO it's the antithesis, as I've written in reply to a PM. It's to give good spool and a wide operating range for daily street driving. If I'm doing endurance racing and the engine will never run below 3k RPM, I'd just to put a big single WG turbo in it for maximum reliability.

As much as possible, I subscribe to the do-it-right-the-first-time-and-spend-money-only-once philosophy.
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Last edited by TDIMeister; November 22nd, 2016 at 14:19.
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Old November 22nd, 2016, 14:41   #9
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I guess I should of rephrased race car, to race car money. My exhaust manifold building skills is far from good. However I would love a compound turbo setup, they always provide the largest range of torque and are usually much smoother then a VGT when it comes to drivability. Downside is I've been blessed/cursed with 3D modeling capabilities and work in it daily. I tend to see the world that way which makes it had to fab on the fly sometimes. But I still try.

Don't take this as me getting defensive, I'm taking what you say as good knowledge. I've started investigating BEW blocks. I might just need to settle for a 200-250hp ALH that's stoutly built.

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Old November 22nd, 2016, 15:30   #10
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You dont really need to fab a manifold. You can buy T3 manifolds and the exhaust from hp turbine to lp is just a simple 90*. If you have a welder and a grinder you can do it.
Not pushing you to go compound, just sayin its really quite simple so fab/setup.
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Old November 22nd, 2016, 20:11   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Exenos View Post
You dont really need to fab a manifold. You can buy T3 manifolds and the exhaust from hp turbine to lp is just a simple 90*. If you have a welder and a grinder you can do it.
Not pushing you to go compound, just sayin its really quite simple so fab/setup.
I hate you guys . TDI miester already has me looking at BEW engines. I shall research.
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Old November 23rd, 2016, 07:37   #12
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This has some good info. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread...=467934&page=3

Maybe look up Foukhest's build. Lots of info there.
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Old November 23rd, 2016, 07:56   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Exenos View Post
You dont really need to fab a manifold. You can buy T3 manifolds and the exhaust from hp turbine to lp is just a simple 90*. If you have a welder and a grinder you can do it.
Not pushing you to go compound, just sayin its really quite simple so fab/setup.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=410054

I'd say the fabrication is the easy part. Tuning them to do what you want proves to be the more difficult [read: time consuming] proposition. Foukhest build would be a prime example of this....top notch fabrication (I actually have his compound manifold setup now ) but never dialed in the tuning. Ended up parting out and moving onto something else.

I'd say tdimeister's advice about doing it right the first time and paying for it once is the best way to prevent the builder/owner from becoming discouraged and scrapping the project.

There is a local BHW Passat for cheap if you change your mind: http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/an...865665338.html

and another: http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ws...836101320.html
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Old November 23rd, 2016, 08:01   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greengeeker View Post
There is a local BHW Passat for cheap if you change your mind: http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/an...865665338.html

and another: http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ws...836101320.html
Sweet Jesus some forum members scoop these up PLEASE!!!
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Old November 23rd, 2016, 08:20   #15
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When you use the BHW do you just use the short block with pistons and crank? Then mount a BEW or ALH head on it? Or do you swap in the whole engine and ECU?
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