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TDI Power Enhancements Discussions about increasing the power of your TDI engine. i.e. chips, injectors, powerboxes, clutches, etc. Handling, suspensions, wheels, type discussion should be put into the "Upgrades (non TDI Engine related)" forum. Non TDI vehicle related postings will be moved or removed. Please note the Performance Disclaimer.

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Old December 15th, 2011, 21:46   #61
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Lower CR will reduce overall thermal efficiency lowering the overall Volumetric efficiency. torque output is a result of VE, you are basically doing the same thing cams do. Cam+ lower CR= drastic dymanic CR change. Power band will move.

If your looking for torque down low you might want to pick your turbo carefully. something that can flow good in the low PR without surging, but will still be able to flow good as PR increases. Port work will also help as it increases VE.
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Old December 15th, 2011, 21:49   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fix_Until_Broke View Post
Any theories on why a change in compression ratio would change the powerband?

Did you change cam's or anything else when you changed CR?
Come on now, you're the engineer here . Lower cr = less energy generated off boost to drive the piston down = less energy to spool the turbo. This will shift the powerband up slightly.

Having said that, since you're running a stock cam and 17/22, your boost threshold is very low to begin with and in all likely hood you won't suffer much of a loss at all. If you did the pistons and a very large cam, you would notice a definite major loss of power off boost as your dynamic CR would drop into the high 17's.

NoJoke's monster at 16.X:1 is a whole 'nother story. A 1.6 NA rabbit has more low end than it has. However, on boost when dynamic CR is brought up, it's an animal. The turbo system starts to come to life right around 1700-1800rpm though so it's not a big deal. Just keep it above that and it's happy whenever you roll into the throttle.


No need for different piston squirters. A long screwdriver is all that's needed to correctly angle them. Done it a couple times now and works like a charm.
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Old December 15th, 2011, 21:56   #63
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Would boring the cylinders out to run BHW pistons and make it a 2.0 help with low end power?
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Old December 15th, 2011, 22:08   #64
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That makes sense now that I think about it (engineers even miss things once and a while ), but once the turbo is spooled up the additional mass air in the cylinder for the same boost pressure should allow more fuel for the same smoke level I'd think?

I know lowering the CR will reduce the thermal efficiency, but I wouldn't think it would change volumetric - if any anything I'd think it would improve it for the same operating conditions as mentioned above?

Do I angle the squirters once the pistons are in the engine at BDC so they aim at the hole in the bottom of the piston? They look difficult to remove with the crank installed and at $35 each I think I can bend them a little

I need to remember to get the main cap bolts from Fastenal as well tomorrow.
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Old December 15th, 2011, 22:10   #65
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I want to thank everyone for their comments and advice as I go through this and have all these questions - I really appreciate it.

That's what makes this community great - Thank You!
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Old December 15th, 2011, 22:19   #66
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With the mileage you have as well as other issues, your objective should be to make the car run again with minimal cost. So your best strategy should be to replace the parts that fell apart. This theory is based on the assumption that the chance of another piston failling or cracking is remote. So get a used piston from a junk yard and removing the other four, take all to a machine shop to have them cleaned and weighted. Reinstall all these, put head gasket and timing belt. The car should run ok. No need to remove the engine out as the damage is just related to the crack in one piston only and that can be removed and installed without removing the short block. There is also no need to deglaze the bores. Just clean them. You always see marks in the bores here and there.
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Old December 16th, 2011, 04:31   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keebler145 View Post
ARL are out of the 4 cylinder pd150 and I want to say the asz pistons are just out of the 8 cylinder... same p/n IIRC *shrugs*
ASZ is a 4cylinder pd130.
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Old December 16th, 2011, 23:39   #68
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Any recommendations on a what cylinder hone to get/use to clean up the cylinders?

All I've been able to find for ring compressors are for large bore V8's, nothing in the 3.130" / 79.5mm range.
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Old December 17th, 2011, 00:29   #69
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Look in tothemax's build thread, he posted a picture of a ball hone with the PN.
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Old December 17th, 2011, 01:30   #70
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http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/901-7950/10002/-1?CT=999
Tapered ring compressor.

Call to make sure it is in stock though. When I ordered my 80mm one it took 8 weeks to ship...... You could also see if Pierre would sell you his.....
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Old December 17th, 2011, 09:44   #71
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Forgot to add, for a really nice one piece ring compressor call Total Seal. If they don't have it in stock, they'll machine one up for you in 2-3 days for around $35+ship if I remember right.
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Old December 17th, 2011, 23:37   #72
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Some pictures now that I have the rods and pistons out.

#2 has a crack in it as well - just not as developed yet.





You can just catch it with your fingernail...

The top half of the big end of the rod bearings are showing signs of wear - The crank looks good, but the bearings are "tired"

#1


#2


#3


#4



Wrist pins look good - some minor marks on the brass wrist pin bushings in the piston and rod. Crank looks good on the rod journals.

Engine oil has been 506.01 0w30 for the last ~100k miles, was 5w40 pentosyn before that.

Not sure what this means other than it's time for bearings

I'll pull a couple of the mains tomorrow and see what they look like - hopefully better than the rods.
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Old December 17th, 2011, 23:43   #73
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Now's a really easy time to throw new main bearings in it. Pull all the caps, tug the harmonic balancer downward, and use a thin-ish piece of aluminum or brass to "roll" the upper bearing shells out. Reverse to procedure to install new shells. Even though your lower main bearings take the main load, no reason not to change the upper shells while you're this far in.
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Old December 18th, 2011, 06:36   #74
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Don't use the 0w30 anymore... Me thinks it's not providing adequate lubrication under heavier loads.. I ran the 0w30 for 10k in mine and never liked the way it sounded especially when the engine was hot.. I switched back to M1-TDT and have been running that or the T6 since.. much happier engine..

Has it ever run without oil? I've pulled a few apart to inspect after a busted oil pan and they looked similar but a little worse depending on how long it was run with the oil light on..
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Old December 18th, 2011, 10:13   #75
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I'm not sure how to get the main caps 1 & 5 off - there does not seem to be enough room to get a socket on the bolts with the rear main seal and front cover installed? The rear main has been seeping the last ~30k miles or so - no drips, but dampness. Water pump has pink crusties growing around it, I'm 30k miles from the next timing belt change. It's looking like I may as well pull the block...Remember the title of this thread, "Where to stop?", yeah - here we are...

It's never been run without oil unless the previous owner did in the 13k miles before I owned it.

An oil pressure/temp gauge will be going in (where I don't know yet, but I'll find a home for it somewhere). I'll report back on what the oil pressures/temps run once I get it back running. A larger oil cooler is also on the list. It will have 5w40 break in oil. I'll decide later if I want to put the 0w30 back in it or not.

Some more pictures...

Lower Rod Bearings

#1


#2


#3


#4



Here's the #4 Rod small end


And the Piston 4 Wrist Pin Bushings





As mentioned above, I could only get the inner main caps off. They're not new, but not near as bad as the rods

#2


#3


#4
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