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TDI Power Enhancements Discussions about increasing the power of your TDI engine. i.e. chips, injectors, powerboxes, clutches, etc. Handling, suspensions, wheels, type discussion should be put into the "Upgrades (non TDI Engine related)" forum. Non TDI vehicle related postings will be moved or removed. Please note the Performance Disclaimer.

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Old December 15th, 2011, 12:47   #46
Ski in NC
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No expert on coatings, but mighty skeptical. Detroit diesel sold coated piston kits for their high output two-strokes, and they failed. Coatings came off and the very hard and abrasive debris tore up the cylinder liners. And those pistons are iron, not al. Nothing seems to like to stick to al, at least in my non-metallurgist mind.

I would not go with coatings unless you are beyond the thermal limits with your tune and duty cycle. In the OP's case, I think it can be handled by keeping rev's up when towing. Snorting around doing heavy accels are brief and heat likely does not have time to soak into piston. But thermal stresses are high there due to the temp gradient...

High output marine engines handle the piston temp issue by lowering cr, as already discussed above. This does create more fuel smoke at light load and cold start, though.
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Last edited by Ski in NC; December 15th, 2011 at 12:49.
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Old December 15th, 2011, 13:05   #47
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Putting the cost aside for a moment, it's a two week delay in getting it back up and running again in my unheated garage.

I have time off work at the end of the year and plenty of holiday travels planned (I have other vehicles to drive, but not anywhere as economical as a TDI). Getting the coating done would put me in the 1st week of Jan instead of next week and cost an additional $250+ in fuel not driving the TDI.

I'm going with the PD150's which should drop compression by a point I'm told. I have no concers about the durability of the coating (maybe I should) - it's a logistics and principle issue. Like IBW asked, will it do any good practically?
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Old December 15th, 2011, 14:21   #48
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Pd Pistons and rods are pritty strong. It will hold just fine. I think you go with bigger nozzels to. hold the injection duration short. it make less thermal stress.
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Old December 15th, 2011, 16:45   #49
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FUB,
How were your rods and bearings? What rods are you using?
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Old December 15th, 2011, 17:38   #50
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I don't have the bottom end apart yet - probably this weekend before I get to it.

The internals are/were all OEM ALH

I went with the IE rods and PD150 ARL pistons from boraparts
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Old December 15th, 2011, 17:46   #51
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I think I would have went rosten rods.... not a big fan of the IE rods....hope they work out, make sure you get the weights checked/balanced.
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Old December 15th, 2011, 18:31   #52
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need to update your user name then to fix_until_broke_repeat
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Old December 15th, 2011, 18:53   #53
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If it's going to be a big delay in plans for you, skip the coating. The pd150 pistons will have much better thermal absorption characteristics than stock pistons do so I wouldn't worry about it too much. Between the lower top ring land, lower cr, and internal oil cooling channels, you should be fine.
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Old December 15th, 2011, 18:58   #54
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Are ASZ and ARL pistons the same or are they actually different?
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Old December 15th, 2011, 20:07   #55
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If you're set on the low rpm power, as in 1000-2000, the lower CR will destroy those dreams... I went down to 18.7XX on my build and it has the torque of a 2.slow under 2000rpm.. 2500rpm+ is a totally different story however.. A bit hard starting in the cold but nothing major.. Some of my lack of low rpm grunt is from the 2260, but regardless of the turbo, there's NO off-boost power at all...
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Old December 15th, 2011, 20:15   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFettig View Post
Are ASZ and ARL pistons the same or are they actually different?

ARL are out of the 4 cylinder pd150 and I want to say the asz pistons are just out of the 8 cylinder... same p/n IIRC *shrugs*
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Old December 15th, 2011, 20:32   #57
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there is a place in MN that does coatings they can do them in a week or less usually.

From what I have read in all my tech articles it's hard to prove it works. Having said that a mentor of mine Joe Mondello use to say it's "free HP" he coated everything from briggs go-kart pistons to 2000HP tractor pull engine. Basically it doesn't give you anything extra. It only stops the heat from going where you don't want it, in the pistons and oil. Coating the head also helps, but to me the heat is needed to get the engine to operating temps.

FUB the place in MN is called TPIS here is a link good group of guys. They will be coating my modified ALH pistons.
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Old December 15th, 2011, 20:34   #58
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Had a couple moments of motivation and went out to the garage and pulled the oil pan and all the rods/pisons.

Everything looks good so far

Does anyone know what kind of rings come on the pistons?

More specifically, to what finish or with what grit should I hone the cylinder bores?
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Old December 15th, 2011, 20:37   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDIJetta99 View Post
If you're set on the low rpm power, as in 1000-2000, the lower CR will destroy those dreams... I went down to 18.7XX on my build and it has the torque of a 2.slow under 2000rpm.. 2500rpm+ is a totally different story however.. A bit hard starting in the cold but nothing major.. Some of my lack of low rpm grunt is from the 2260, but regardless of the turbo, there's NO off-boost power at all...
Any theories on why a change in compression ratio would change the powerband?

Did you change cam's or anything else when you changed CR?
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Old December 15th, 2011, 20:42   #60
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PD150 pistons need different squirters. ALH squirters will not line up with the hole in the piston to get optimal cooling.

PN is 038103157A
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