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TDI Power Enhancements Discussions about increasing the power of your TDI engine. i.e. chips, injectors, powerboxes, clutches, etc. Handling, suspensions, wheels, type discussion should be put into the "Upgrades (non TDI Engine related)" forum. Non TDI vehicle related postings will be moved or removed. Please note the Performance Disclaimer.

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Old August 29th, 2017, 14:38   #1
poxxxy
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Default 1.9 PD150 ARL with GTB2260VKLR turbo adjustment

Hi guys,

I have just this week fitted a gtb2260vklr and firad 80%+ injectors to my car... the car wasn't making requested boost (underboosting) up until 3500 rpm and made 327hp/377lbft but only over 1000rpm rev range till the limiter. I tried playing with N75 map but trying to close vanes earlier didn't seem to really help.

Today we played with the actuator arm slightly and shortened the VNT and boost is now kicking in at about 3000rpm and it pulls nice till the limiter but still very laggy considering it should be able to make 1.4 bar at 2400rpm and after the adjustment actuator is now hitting the stop screw at around 15" on the mercury gauge.

Just wondering what anyone with some more experience would recommend?

Vacuum and actuator hold pressure so there is no problem there... thinking to run basic settings in measuring block 11 tomorrow to cycle the n75 valve and see what the solenoid is pulling on the gauge to check that is healthy.

I will try and get an EMP gauge to hook up to the EGR blank and then maybe some stop screw adjustment may be required too...
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Old August 29th, 2017, 16:05   #2
FraggyTDI
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Did you upgrade your MAP sensor when you made the swap?
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Old August 29th, 2017, 17:04   #3
poxxxy
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Yes I have 4 BAR map sensor installed and linearization values are currently:

215.1 4462.4
200 4000
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Old August 29th, 2017, 17:04   #4
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It seems to hold at requested boost (2.2 bar) when it reaches it... dyno runs were over pretty quick so didn't get chance to take a log there but will try and get a log of block 11 tomorrow and see what's happening there.

Last edited by poxxxy; August 29th, 2017 at 17:16.
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Old August 29th, 2017, 23:54   #5
Nevada_TDI
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Even though you are setting the vacuum "start-stop" using the factory settings, they are not optimum for your non-factory application of your turbo. If it were me, I would set the actuator arm to where the N75% is in the mid-60's @WOT in the middle of third gear.
I would not mess with the stop screw until you have run out of all possible options; you could cause an uncontrollable overboost grenade situation with your new turbo.
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Old August 30th, 2017, 06:16   #6
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Have you run group 011 logs with VCDS? Duty cycle numbers are often key to knowing what could be wrong
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Old August 30th, 2017, 10:27   #7
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You may have to close up the vanes slightly on the stop screw, these 2260's were used mainly on 3.0 diesels originally so the VNT flow set when closed would usually be much higher.
There is a N75 test you can do on VCDS where it holds the revs up and cycles the N75 fully open and then to fully closed so you can see the differential pressure between the two, around 150mbar is good.
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Old August 31st, 2017, 12:49   #8
poxxxy
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Decided to hook up Mercury gauge and N75 was only pulling 12"... Swapped it out for a friend's and his was pulling 25" and now boosting much earlier... Duty cycle around 75% at 4000rpm... Split an oil cooler hose on the last Dyno run so didn't get to play any further... 300hp and 388lb/ft this time around. Best I had with the lazy n75 valve was 327, then 312 now 300... lol. Have another file I wrote with a different N75 map to try and can maybe go another half turn shortening the vnt rod

Just wondering if I need a new oil cooler now or if the hose was tired anyway!

Last edited by poxxxy; August 31st, 2017 at 13:09.
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Old August 31st, 2017, 13:05   #9
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