Digital Corpus
Top Post Dawg
No, it is not contradictory, but I was writing more for brevity than clarity, so my bad.Now that's contradictory, what code does it throw when you immediately flip the key back on? Implausible 109, or something else? This is likely the only hint you will get.
As said before it may be limited fuel, or limited by ECU.
If I leave the engine/car/ECU be and normally cycle the keys over a few seconds, no codes appear. If I quickly cycle the key, sub 1-second, because I'm merging onto the freeway and I *have* to go now, then the shortness of the power down event causes a brownout for the ECU. I'm not surprised that a code is thrown under those conditions.
Typically I have gotten an intermittent crank position sensor code when does appear, but it is not a guarantee. I did replace it as a precaution. That code only had a high chance of occurring if I accidently stepped back onto the throttle too aggressively and stalled out again within about 10 seconds of the first one, both with "flicked" keys.
I swapped relay 109's because, initially, this appeared to me to be similar to an electrical issue, largely due to very very very little info about the problem on the forums. People with different backgrounds will interpret the causes of unknown problems differently. I've never had anything of this car behave with such insistent immediacy so an electrical issue seemed most likely and relay 109 controls power to the ECU.
I've read your post and responded to the post in situ, so it is interesting that you mention the CPS as I've replaced it. The sensor and its cable are good, but that doesn't rule out wire breaks, which can be a nightmare to trackdown. Grounds are freshly clean in the past 3 weeks.The symptoms oddly enough resembles the crank sensor failing from the cut out at higher temps and RPM's. Could be a wire is broken enough that when it gets hotter it just stops conducting, or a bad ground that is causing a loss of connection. I suspect a lot more things than the 109 because of when it happens
I've considered this, but relay 18 that is right next to relay 109 on the '97 is also rated for 40 A. It gets rather warm and because it is OE from 01/97, I swapped it out with a similar part rated for 70 A. Wasn't sure if the waste heat was from the energized coil, or the load running through the relay. I did confirm through disassembly that the higher rated relay had larger contacts. Since this relay runs hotter than 109, I've also removed 109 from the suspect list.Somethings phishy about the situation and you accusing the 109, if it were the 109 RPM's would have nothing to do with it, only temperature and time would vary. Don't solder it in, pull the plug from the rack it's clipped into and let it hang. The only way a good "updated" relay should fail is if too much power is being drawn through it and it's fouling. It's a normal 4 contact relay with a 5th small signal wire connected, the updated ones were to withstand higher loads. Technically you could split the output and use 2 to increase life and reduce the load through the relays
This vibration and the modifications involved only intensified a situation.
Any suggestions for tracking down wire breaks with unbroken insulation? If the software "patch" doesn't solve the issue, this is what is on my list next, I assume.