AFN swap into a b5 Audi A4QM

Hey guys I am new to this forum and relative new to diesel. I worked at a audi dealer for many years but as you know they didn't bring too many diesels into this country intil recently.

So I own a 99 Audi A4 Quattro manual car that had a 1.8t in it that I severly blew up. Well insted of just throwing another one in a buddy talked me into going with a euro TDI. I found and AFN on eBay UK and got it shipped with what I thought was everything I was going to need. Well as you may know the UK are right hand drive cars so yeah that harness was not going to work not to mention it was hacked up pretty bad. So I sourced a German harness and the fun began.

I got the motor into the car right away and then started to work on wiring will that was a head scracher until I finally found an AFN wiring diagram but I have it mostly wired up to connect to the AEB car harness.

So I have the car right now where the car cranks over, and I am getting power threw all the relays and the fuel pump is getting fuel to the injectors but that damn thing just will not start. I do not have the pedal, mass air, boost pressure sensor or the EGR sensor hooked up yet but do you that that would stop it from running? Also I cannot find in the wiring harness where the K wire for diag goes into the ECU does anybody know?

I will post up pictures soon but I need to get this running to help with my moral. Any help would be great thanks guys

Ben

It should start without that stuff hooked up. I take it you are running a 68 pin AFN ECU? I just did a similar swap on my B5 S4, I'll take a look at my wiring notes when I get back home tomorrow night. As I remember there is a small black wire on the T10 engine harness plenum plug (the one with all the big power wires) that is NOT a ground, it needs 12v power for the car to run. Make sure you have power at the fuel shutoff switch on the injector pump. After that, definitely gonna need that K line hooked up or else you will be pissing into the wind troubleshooting it. A lot of good info for your project in this thread here:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=372842&page=2

Your K-line wire is GREEN/BLACK and is on the T10 Yellow plenum plug of the engine harness. I have mine hooked to the GREEN/BLACK wire of the T10 Brown Plenum plug of the chassis.

Any updates?

Hey guys sorry it's been a bit since I got on here.

Found a black wire which intern powered up everything I think that I need. However I still do not have power at the shut of valve on the pump and if I look at that wire on the diagrams it shows its controlled by the ECU so not sure on that yet.

Also I got the k line figured out and I have 3 faults. First no communication with throttle position I have one and am working on wiring that in. Second open circuit fot the glow plug light. I have not gotten a TDI cluster so I do not know just yet what to do on this. Do I need that light to complete a circuit for the ecu to say it's ok? Oh and by the way I am running a 99 80pin ecu. Third and final is start blocked by immoblizer. Now on this topic would it still not start and die? Any way ecu is sent out to get that taken off and EGR coded out.

My buddy borrowed me a 99 jetta ECU and said it should at least get it to run.

Any thoughts on anything, question comments or concerns??

Thanks Ben

If those are the only codes you have it should start. Even with the Immo not defeated it should start up and run for a second or two then die. The glow plug light needs to be hooked up to get rid of that code, but not necessary for the car to run. Have you tried running a 12v hot wire to the fuel solenoid? Is the engine timed correctly? If the injection pump is off just a few mm the car will not run.

So I put the VW ECU in it and still no start quite yet only tried to crank just a bit.

I have tried to put 12v to it and I can hear a click from the pump but it still will just not pop off. I believe it is timed properly I have not pulled the belt at all and I still have the concern of no power at the shut off solenoid so I am thinking it's not timing, but truly don't know.

I was wondering if the ECU will not supply power to that solenoid till I have a pedal hooked up telling it we are ready to idle?

Thanks cowboy

The car will run without the pedal hooked up and idle just fine. I've done it. Have you tested for power at the solenoid while you crank? I know the ECU needs to see 300 RPM before it puts fuel to the motor, not sure if it does that through the solenoid or not.

No I havent I will try that here in a min

Anyone else wanna chime in here? I'm sure the TDI Guru's can give some better advice.

Ok I have voltage at that solenoid. But still not start. Anything else to look at?? I am really scratching my head.

Thanks

With no major codes I would have to say either a timing problem or a fuel issue like air in the injector lines.

I just want to confirm you have cracked all the injector lines at the injectors and cranked the engine to bleed out all the air? It doesn't take much air to keep it from starting.

Pop the timing cover and check the timing belt. If it looks brand new that would be a red flag. Make sure the belt moves when you turn the key. If it does then confirm that the crank and cam are both at TDC, you will need to remove the valve cover to check cam TDC, TDC on the crank can be viewed from an access hole in the trans. The lock pin will be needed to check the injector timing is close. You can use a big bolt or a drill bit to improvise if you don't have one, search for the tools on the forum and you can find the specs to make one.

If you are sure the electrical is fine, then I would say it is air in the line / pump or a cranking speed issue.

I always use clear tubing from the fuel filter to the injector pump so I can see if there are bubbles or not. Then I just crack open each injector line at the injector and start cranking until fuel comes spraying out and then tighten.

Aren't the hard lines from the pump to the injector the feed lines? I will give it a try I hope your right this is getting a bit annoying.

Ben

UPDATE for anybody who is cares. I have wired in the pedal assembly and made sure there fuel at the injectors by cracking then while cranking and there is plenty. Also I have voltage at the pump at the top wire there I believe that is the shutoff solenoid. But still no start.

Tonight I am going to check for compression and maybe the injectors to see if they are working.

Any help is appreciated.

Tdiavant said:

UPDATE for anybody who is cares. I have wired in the pedal assembly and made sure there fuel at the injectors by cracking then while cranking and there is plenty. Also I have voltage at the pump at the top wire there I believe that is the shutoff solenoid. But still no start.

Tonight I am going to check for compression and maybe the injectors to see if they are working.

Any help is appreciated.

Click to expand...

Did you ever check the engine and pump timing? You bought a used engine, which means the car was scrapped for some reason, maybe an accident, but maybe the belt jumped a tooth or the injector pump crapped out and it was sent to the boneyard. You never know.

Any updates? Is this thing running yet?

Ok I got it running the other night and it runs well. After I got my correct cluster back from the guy taking off the Immo and after a few tries she popped right off. So I have to hook up some stuff still.

I am having a hard time figuring out the tach I am still running an AEB cluster because I have not found a good diesel cluster for ok money so what wire does color does the AEB tach reference for the dash and will it work with this diesel.

Also I am working on the brake light circuit does anybody know what that references for the AEB side of it I have no tail lights currently.

Thanks all
Ben

Glad to hear you got it running. The AEB tach will work with the TDI, but the cluster settings will need to be re-adjusted for the MFA to read properly. A how to can be found here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Audi_A4/S4/RS4_(8D)
I have an A4 TDI cluster laying around without MFA if you are interested, PM me. It may not be plug and play depending on what cluster you have. More info can be found here: http://www.audiworld.com/forums/a4-b5-platform-discussion-1/understanding-differences-between-audi-a4-clusters-compatibility-issues-2797763/
The tach wire for the body should be a GREEN/BLUE wire found on the black T10 plug in the plenum. This should be wired to the GREEN/BLUE wire on the black T10 plenum plug of the TDI harness.
Your brake lights switch needs two wires hooked up.
RED/BLACK on the T10 white plenum plug goes to the RED/BLACK on the white T10 TDI harness
RED/GREY on the same plug goes to WHITE/RED on the White T10 TDI harness.
That should save you several hours of banging your head against the wall.

K1 you are the man!! I am going to check that wiring out tonight.

Oh pm sent.

Well thanks for the info cowboy. I sent you a text message about the cluster I would like to see pictures but I will take it. Feel free to text back when ever.

I have and issue though my car is a 99.5 stick if that matters and it never had a white connector in the body harness. Here are a list of unaccounted wires I have left of you can help with any of them.

Body :
Black/blue - orange
Green/yellow - orange
Yellow/red - orange
Black/purple - red
Green/brown- red
Black/white - brown.

Engine:

Red/yellow x2
Red/ gray x2
Red/black
Blue
Red/green
Black/yellow

Any help is much appreciated.

Ben

Oh and p.s. I had the green/blue wire I had switched with a white/blue switched them and now my DID works and my Tach thanks again!!

Ben

Tdiavant said:

Oh and p.s. I had the green/blue wire I had switched with a white/blue switched them and now my DID works and my Tach thanks again!!

Ben

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No problem, glad you got the tach sorted. I don't have access to the 99.5 wiring diagram, and your running a 80 pin ECU which is different then mine. Your gonna need to find the diagrams for both and spend several hours figuring out where they all go. I'll send you some pics of what I do have that may be helpful.

So after i figured the worst was behind me i went out to the car on a cold winter morning and it would not start. After doing some digging found I am not getting fuel. I have heard of some of you leaving the original fuel pump in your car and sorta looping it to help it prime the system. Has anybody don't this or is there a way to check and see if the mechanical pump is working?

Thanks for the help

Ben

Hey guys, got the car running again and it runs well however it's really cold up here so I have not been driving much. I am wondering a few things now that I have driven a few times.

1st- the car does not shut off some times with the key. This has happens like 4 times after driving for a bit then sometime it will shut off fine. Has anybody had this problem? Currently I am putting on the e break and loading the motor till it stalls to get it to shut off.

2nd- it kinda revs out a bit. I am using the factory 99 a4 1.8t trans and it runs at about 3000rpm at 65 mph. I am wondering if anybody has ever just done a diesel 5th gear in a 1.8 trans because ecs has the gear on sale.

I am sure I have more questions so thanks for the help.

Ben

Tdiavant said:

Hey guys, got the car running again and it runs well however it's really cold up here so I have not been driving much. I am wondering a few things now that I have driven a few times.

1st- the car does not shut off some times with the key. This has happens like 4 times after driving for a bit then sometime it will shut off fine. Has anybody had this problem? Currently I am putting on the e break and loading the motor till it stalls to get it to shut off.

2nd- it kinda revs out a bit. I am using the factory 99 a4 1.8t trans and it runs at about 3000rpm at 65 mph. I am wondering if anybody has ever just done a diesel 5th gear in a 1.8 trans because ecs has the gear on sale.

I am sure I have more questions so thanks for the help.

Ben

Click to expand...

The intermittent shut off sounds like a faulty or sticky fuel cut off solenoid. Pull it and clean it or if you're going to pull maybe have a replacement on hand.

The gearing of the 1.8T trans isn't ideal at for the TDI. I know some fellow members who've done this swap, at least one has built his own trans out of "bits and pieces" but on his next conversion opted to simply purchase a proper TDI trans.

Thanks Mogly. I would love to find out where I can source that 5 gear. I will have to do a little more research

Contact Scott at advanced auto motion, he can probably supply the gear. Contact Frans at dutch auto parts for a real TDI trans. I got my trans from Frans and have been very happy with it.

Hey guys,

I know that this a very old post in 2015.. maybe some of you guys can help my problem, since we are talkinga about the same engine from audi 1998 a4 tdi afn engine..

I need to connect the wire from my pedal accelarator to the white plenum plug, but don't know which wire from pedal acc goes to what wire in the white plenum plug..

The accelerator wires are
Pin. Color
1. Gray/white
2. Yellow/green
3. Gray/red
4. White/blue
5. Gray/blue
6. Brown/blue

For the white plug, I know thata pins 1,2,3,4,5,7 are for pedal accelerator
Pin. Color
1. Yellow
2. Red
3. Brown/red
4. Gray/white
5. Gray (which I don't know why my white plug doesn't have one)
7 brown

i just don't know what wire from pedal accelarator goes to what wire to white plug..
I don't have the other end of the white wire plug..
If someone could help me...
Thank you so much!!