AHU swap into 93 Eurovan Weekender

njt1rider

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Does anyone have a diagram of what number each wire is on the T24 connector? There are numbers stamped for the outside wires but it seems all the wires within the outside circle are a mystery...I found #13...looking for #12 and #19. I'm pretty sure I can tell by the color but just want to be certain ya know?

EDIT: I found what I was looking for; traced the wire back to the ECU using the schematics to verify.

Turned out we wired the ALH pump swap incorrectly. You are supposed to wire the connector going from the T24 plug bolted to the coolant flange to the thee wire connector going to the AHU IP pump. I didn't like that because then the engine harness isn't in 2 pieces like it was designed. So I found where the wires connect to T24 on the ECU side of the harness, de-pinned, and re-pinned them to the T10 ALH IP plug.

They're old home (I included the numbers in case anyone needs this info in the future)


They're new home:
 
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njt1rider

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Bueller?....Bueller? I guess I'll take a stab at answering my own questions.

-Is the 1Z harness the essentials of everything I need? Will I need anything else from the AHU harness?
--Yes BUT.....keep reading...
-I know the glowplug circuits are different, I'm trying to figure out what I need to do. The bentley says #12 position should be the glowplug relay but my fuseblock has nothing there. It looks like on the AHU harness, the relay is remote and mounted outside of the fuse block. To make the glowplug circuit work with the 1Z harness work do I just plug the glowplug relay into the #12 relay position and that's it?
-Every schematic I'm reading says the glowplug relay should be a 102, 103 or 104. The remote relay on the AHU setup is 180. Do I need to find a 102/3/4? Can anyone elaborate whats going on there?
-Let me post some pictures and try to answer both these at once:
1Z glowplug circuit:

AHU Glowplug Circuit:


After reading this: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=204372 and closely studying the schematics and pining out wires on my harness, it looks like I have an early 1Z harness. This means the glowplug relay was mounted in the number 12 position on the fuse block and used a "103" relay. The AHU has the remote relay position above the fuse block and uses a "180" relay. Now, the problem I'm seeing with making the 1Z harness work in the AHU application is that I am still using the AHU ECU. If I were to use the 1Z harness and ECU, than this would truly be a plug and play without having to strip any harness down or any of that. The reason for this is that the AHU ECU is looking for a glowplug signal at pin 30 and pin 50. (I'm not sure what these signals are if anyone could enlighten me) The 1Z harness only has a signal going to pin 50. If I used the 1Z harness I'm assuming it would throw a CEL and I am unsure how the glowplugs would behave. So this leaves me these options:
1. Source a 1Z ECU and plug a 103 relay in position 12 if I want to use the 1Z harness
-The AHU ECU is currently out being tuned so that's out of the question
2. Add the AHU glowplug circuit into the 1Z harness using relay position 12 and a 180 relay
3. Strip down and use the AHU harness

Well options 2 and 3 are probably about the same amount of work so I'm gonna go with using the AHU harness just so I know everything is where its supposed to be. Can anyone verify if I am correct/incorrect in my thoughts here?

On a side note, the weather forecast is really cold for the foreseeable future and it's "slightly" letting up today and tomorrow (40 degrees) so I think I will take the rest of the weekend to pull the van in the garage and yank out the old engine and tranny....
 

vintagemotion

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Can someone clarify the difference in the actual motor mounts? It looks like some years came with the taller “can” type mount (right in this pictures) and some years came with the shorter looking type (left side in picture 701199201G). Are the mounts (not the brackets of course) interchangeable? I’m trying to find the correct mounts/brackets to install an EWB transmission in my 1999 VR6 Eurovan.

[/QUOTE]
 

njt1rider

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If you go to www.vagcat.com, you can sign up and search all of ETKA. It looks like in your year they are using the pendulum upper and lower tans mounts. You are required to use the lower pendulum mount but I dont think you have to use the upper; I believe the old style will still work. As for the 2 different mounts themselves, I'd say look at your other one and make sure they match. I dont know the answer to your question for certain though...scanning through ETKA might help you out...


EDIT: your question might be better answered on a Eurovan forum here
 
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njt1rider

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Engine is primed with no leaks and timed to spec. Got the shiny southbend clutch bolted up and torqued to spec. Mounted tranny and bolted on a few random things...


She's begging for it.....


Now to revisit the wiring harness and wait on more parts.....
 

njt1rider

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Got the injectors and ECU back from Kerma. Cutting down the AHU harness was not nearly as painful as I thought it was going to be. I believe I need the passat instrument cluster wiring harness to make the cluster work properly. I'm still waiting on parts so progress is at a stand still. I broke the heatercore while pulling the engine so I tackled that this weekend. I ended up resealing the whole HVAC box. You have to pull the whole dash to do this. Not a lot of fun. Dropped the fuel tank, drained it, deleted fuel pump and just waiting on a sender. The suspension needs some freshening up which I'll tackle while waiting for parts...

 

Lug_Nut

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Cutting down the AHU harness was not nearly as painful as I thought it was going to be.
There is one engine sensor that is wired to a different pin of the 68 in the ECU on the B4 1Z (104 GP relay) versus the B4 AHU (180 GP relay). I'll have to check which.
 

njt1rider

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I believe I figured that out; on the AHU, there are two wires that communicate with the ECU for the glow plugs(pin 30 and 50 on ECU go to pins 1 and 7 on GP relay ), while the 1z only has 1 wire going to pin 50. I figured to use the 1z harness with the AHU ECU, I would have had to add a wire going from pin 30 on the ecu to pin 7 of the glow plug relay. I would have also had to construct the AHU remote glow plug relay circuit into position 12 relay on the fuse block. I decided to forgo all that and take a stab at cutting down the AHU harness. It went a lot smoother than expected and should work without any modifications (besides the mod to use the ALH pump). The next issue I'm having is that it looks like I need to use the 1z instrument cluster wiring harness to make the passat cluster work properly. I just don't see why I wouldn't be able to use the AHU one but I found one on the cheap so I'm not worrying about it too much. Once I have them both side by side hopefully I can report the differences. I am having a hard time understanding the instrument cluster schematic in the bentley. I understand where the wires are going to in the harness I just don't get what they go to in the cluster...

-EDIT: I am also told I might need to mod something to make the tach work on the passat cluster...any ideas?
 
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njt1rider

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Just received the harness in the mail. On a side by side comparison this is what I found:
-The 1z harness has 1 white plug for cluster where as the AHU has 1 white and 1 red but the passat cluster has a spot for both red and white plugs.
-The 1z harness has wires in U1/1 and U1/2 where as the AHU does not
-The 1z harness has a wire in U2/4 where as the AHU does not
-The AHU harness has a wire in U2/3 where as the 1z does not
-They both have different individual connectors but they all seem to be unimportant:seat belt light, trunk light...etc...the turn signal connector is the same
-The Bentley says that the check engine light runs through T28B/26 to U1/9. The 1z harness has a wire in the U1/9 spot but no T28B connector. The AHU harness has the T28B connector and a wire in U1/9

I have been using This as a reference

1Z harness:


AHU harness:


Passat Cluster:



What am I not getting here? I don't see why the harnesses are not interchangeable besides being told that the 1z harness is needed to use the passat cluster and that the bentley schematics look way different for the AHU cluster VS the 1Z cluster. I don't quite understand how to read the cluster schematic so I'm not sure what about them is different. My guess is that the wires are not pinned to the same places and it is not blatantly obvious because all the wires are white...?
 

Lug_Nut

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idi: 1988 Bolens DGT1700H, the other oil burner: 1967 Saab Sonett II two stroke
Which "AHU"? The B4 AHU is nearly identical to the B4 1Z

There is (should be) a second T28 connector. There is just the one wire from U1/9 that connects to the T28b/26 for the MIL. Find the loose end of your U1/9 and connect it, some how, to 26 in the T28b.


On the B4 1Z harness the QA is connected to the ECU at T68/30 (as well as at T68/4, /5, and /49). In the B4 AHU harness the T68/30 is not used for the QA, but the /4, /5, and /49 connections are.
When you make the changes for the T68/30 to the glow relay for the AHU harness don't forget about the quantity adjuster.
The AHU glow relay connection is an output from the relay and an input to the ECU to detect if the paired glow circuits have a different current flow (a fancy burned-out-brakelamp check).
 

njt1rider

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When I say AHU, I'm referring to the 98 jetta. When I say 1Z I mean passat. I do not know what engine code the passat had in it but IIRC I think it had a GT15 turbo on it. I also think it was a 97. The part number on this cluster is 3a0 919 910h. I am using the 98 jetta engine, complete engine wiring harness, and ECU. I am using the Passat instrument cluster. I just need to figure out what I need to do to make this cluster work (if anything). I have the instrument cluster wiring harness from the 98 jetta (1hm 971 064ae) which has the white and red plug and I have the instrument cluster harness from what I was told was a 1z (3a2 971 064a) which only has the 1 white plug.
 

Lug_Nut

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The A3 TDI cluster doesn't have a second connector. You'll have to get both the A3 AHU and B4 1Z instrument schematics out and identify the function of the wire on the AHU, and connect it the pin having the same function in the 1Z cluster.
 

njt1rider

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Boost/Map sensor solution:



Oil temp/Pressure:


Looks a little crooked:


Not anymore :D :D :D


Plenty of room for the VNT-17



I started wiring in the Engine harness the other night and I'm almost at the plug in and turn the key to see what happens point. I'm hoping to get some solid hours in tomorrow and wednesday and see what I can accomplish. My goal is to be driving it by the end of the weekend but I may have a couple hurdles to overcome first. Plan for tomorrow is first reorganize and reassess what needs to happen next and go from there. Biggest foreseeable hurdles to jump to have this running by the weekend are: hose from turbo to intercooler (I dont have the right size adapter) and I am still waiting to receive the go pedal. I still have the MK3 one and will fabricate if it comes down to it.
 

Growler

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I expected the engine to be shifted further to the drivers side than that since it is one cylinder less than the original motor.. its hard to see how they could fit a 5th cylinder in there.

do you have a picture of the original engine still in there with the nose removed like the last photo?

looks like a fun job (not) :)
 

njt1rider

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The 5 cylinder is a super tight fit. Maybe 1-2" of room between frame and TB cover. It was so tight that even with a serpentine belt tool it was more practical to just chop the belt off than fool around with that headache.

As far as the engine positioning, the transmission is in the identical position as with the 5 cylinder. The top transmission mount is reused; the bottom is reused (if using a regeared CHP) or a pendulum mount if using an EWB. The big L bracket in this pic is the engine side mounting bracket and it literally just takes up the space of the 5th cylinder. I suspect that this will be the absolute easiest TB job on any VW. I don't think any prep work is necessary, not even jacking up the van if you're skinny!

 

njt1rider

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A good find: go HERE if you need to refresh the shift linkage for your transmission. They offer a kit with all bushings needed. I wish I saw this sooner....

EDIT: Another find...for those with weekenders who want more of the camper options check out THIS
 
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njt1rider

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Ok so I got to a point where I can try to crank her up. I've scanned with vagcom and only fault is glow plug indicator light. I've vacuumed fuel through the IP and have fuel at the injectors when cranking. I tried various timing positions on the IP and I still can't get it to catch. Any suggestions, tips, hints, help?....
 

Growler

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sweet.

now get it on vcds and adjust it to somewhere between the middle and top lines.

too bad you put an ALH pump on there.. with a mk3 pump you could have done it while the engine was running

COngrats.. at least one of us got their van going today
 

njt1rider

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The van is in no condition to run for a sustained amount of time. I just wanted to see if it would catch and turn over before I bolted everything back together. Now that I know it runs, the race is on to get it to running condition. I would love to drive it by the end of the weekend but the crux will be the shifter linkage and go pedal. 2 more puzzles will be making the A/C system work properly and cruise control. I have most of the cruise control hooked up but the switches on the pedals aren't interchangeable without modification. Well see what I can come up with...
 

njt1rider

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Squared away the transmission shift linkage and bled the clutch tonight. Things left to do before I can take her for a spin:
-Vacuum lines
-Intake hoses/mount intercooler
-Coolant hoses
-Fuel lines/mount fuel filter
-Exhaust
-Power steering
-Go pedal

It doesn't sound like much but each is a puzzle in its own right. The weekend(er) is almost here. I took all next week off from work to button up all the loose ends on this so if I'm not driving it by the end of the week, something is seriously wrong...
 
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njt1rider

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New downpipe angle:


Tons of room for TB change:


Finished coolant hoses (still need to pipe in AUX heater) and fuel lines. Having pressure side power steering hose fabricated as it would not reach the new P/S pump location. Working on intake still. The 2.5 TDI intercooler is 2 1/4" where as everything else is 2". Working on fixing the A/C compressor location. I fabricated it so it would bolt exactly like the AHU compressor but somehow the pulleys don't line up. I have an extra compressor to play around with if needed.
 

njt1rider

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Ok ran into some trouble but squared it away and this is where I'm at:


No fault codes on VAGCOM.

I finally figured out the cluster. I took the red T28B connector from the AHU harness and integrated it into the 1Z harness by removing the "truck unlocked" wire (brown/white) from T28/14 to a brown individual connector and placed them into T28B/26 (red connector) to U1/9. That will give me the check engine light. Now the next problem was nothing on the cluster was working except ODO and clock. Turns out on the tdi wiring, D8 and E2 are connected in one of those funky single pin connector junctions. Add those two wires plug em in and Viola! Only thing I am unsure of now is speedo because I haven't driven it yet.

Ok so biggest problem at the moment: engine idles super rough when first started for a minute almost like 1 or 2 of the cylinders arent firing then all of a sudden it smooths out but idles at 1200 RPM. If I try to move the go pedal pento, the engine revs like it has a mind of its own and I turn off the key real quick before any damage can be done. Any idea whats going on here? I havent fabbed up the pedal yet so its just flopped in there but I should be able to move it by hand without those kind of results. I dont really know where to start on this one...??? Help appreciated. O yeah and it hiccups every once in awhile when the rad fans kick in...

I'm going to run the vac lines and see if I can figure out if the turbo is being controlled by computer properly (VNT Tune). Only thing is I dont think I can do this properly with engine idling at 1200 RPM...

Another thing that needs to be addressed is the inlet air temp sensor. the old one was pushed into a hard plastic intake hose with a metal clip securing it. On my new setup, the only thing close to the sensor is a rubber hose. There is a MAP sensor on the intercooler I am using. Is there anyway to utilize this and turn it into the temp sensor?

 

njt1rider

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I had someone asking me about this....this is what an 8 foot awning looks like on a weekender:


Still looking for advice about the idle. I'm finished working for the night but going to try adjusting the IQ next and possibly thinking that inlet air temp sensor might have something to do with it as well but that will be hit on tomorrow morning...
 

Growler

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I would suggest an IQ adjustment. adaptation, group 1, 32768 number, careful taps to adjust it so that its around 4.0 at idle.
 

greengeeker

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If your engine is idling at 1200rpm i'd be lookin into your throttle wiring. Well that and make sure your cel bulb is good as you shouls be getting a code.
 

njt1rider

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Hmmm...To do the alh pump conversion I did chop the three wires to the n108 and n109 and resoldered them. How would I check if I did this properly? I know the wires are in the right spot and have continuity, but I'm guessing this would be a resistance issue? Thank you for the quick responses guys!

Edit: what would the check engine bulb affect? I'm reading the codes through vagcom...
 
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