p0544 Sensor 1 for exhaust temp bank 1 (G235)

If you don't mind...what was the total cost of the dpf replacement?

I had P0544 last week on the way to work - and drove just another 30km after the light came on before delivering the car to the dealer (under warranty).

Parts replaced were, as on the invoice:

03L-906-088-EJ (sensor)
03G-131-547-H (gasket)
1K0-253-725-E (clip)
1K0-253-115-AG (gasket)

Does that same code come up for any of the sensors or is the code specific to one of the sensors? Also I am curious if anyone can tell me why the part # for the sensor does not match any of the ones listed on the first page of this thread. Is it a new model?

Thanks!

Brought our '10 JSW to dealer today as we have had a check engine light for a couple of days. After charging $98 to pull the codes, we were told it was "Tech found EGT fault codes in system as vehicle has 4 sensors, tech isolated a faulty 235 get sensor-located behind particle filter Quoted customer $519 parts/labor/diagnostic. Had to pay the diagnostic fee to ransom the car, and on the way home the glow plug light started flashing. I gather this job is a little tough for the average home tinkerer, does anyone have an idea how many hours this job should book?

G235 Bank One temperature sensor replacement guide -P0455

boomvang said:

Brought our '10 JSW to dealer today as we have had a check engine light for a couple of days. After charging $98 to pull the codes, we were told it was "Tech found EGT fault codes in system as vehicle has 4 sensors, tech isolated a faulty 235 get sensor-located behind particle filter Quoted customer $519 parts/labor/diagnostic. Had to pay the diagnostic fee to ransom the car, and on the way home the glow plug light started flashing. I gather this job is a little tough for the average home tinkerer, does anyone have an idea how many hours this job should book?

Click to expand...

Hello all, Here is a simple guide to help replace your G235 Temp sensor, Bank one. It is a 2-3 hour job at home, on ramps and you will need the special tool, (VW #T40055 or Snap On #FRXM-17) mentioned above.
I recieved a flashing Glow Plug and a P0544 code.
VCDS will tell you G235 and which Bank is faulty.
The Part number for my VIN was 03L-906-088L.
This is the sensor with the Black Connector, which is easy to locate the connector portion. Your G235 Connector is the black one, below the Orange Connector.

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The threaded portion of the sensor is just below the Turbo, threaded into the Exhaust Manifold. Not a very friendly location!! (Item#37)

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I didn't have time to wait for the special tool, (VW #T40055 or Snap On #FRXM-17) so I simply modified a 17mm deep 3/8" drive impact socket. You can do this with an angle grinder and cut off disc.
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Here's the new sensor and it works best with a flex head ratchet and 6" extension.
The easiest access is from above, once you locate it!!! You still have to remove the belly pan and access the bottom to route the wires properly.
.Here are some basic steps:
- safely raise car and remove belly pan.
- locate the black connector and simply pull it out of its steel attacment firewall clip. Typical VW connector, squeeze the tab inwards with your thumb, while compressing the two connectors together. This easily releases the connection. Do not use screwdrivers to pry or lift tabs!!
- gently unfasten the loom and unclip the plastic and steel holders.
- pay attention to the routing from under the car!!
I removed this cover (17mm wrench) to help see the wire routing:
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- fully seat the socket and remove sensor from above.
- coat the threads of the new sensor with high temp thread anti-seize. Do not get any on the sensor tip. Avoid touching the tip, similar to the cautions you use with headlight bulbs!!
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I struggled to get the sensor in from the top. I made up this Push Stick from a coat hanger to guide and insert the sensor from the bottom:
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Make it about 12" long!
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Up she goes!!

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- Tighten the sensor from above, ensuring the angled tube is not touching the oil line. Official Torque is 45 Nm or 33 foot pounds.
**you have to re-index the socket every 1/3 turn, so the angled tube doesn't contact the socket body!!!**
- carefully re-route the wire, replace the zip tie and clips.
- insert the connectors and test pull apart to make sure they are locked.
Make sure the wire can not contact the EGR filter or DPF.
- reinstall the plastic driveshaft shield and belly pan..
Avoid prolonging changing this sensor. While it is faulty, no regens will happen. I left mine for about 250 miles, to be rewarded with a DPF light. Thankfully, after about 50 miles, the DPF light went out!!
Here is more information and a great site!!:
http://volkswagen.workshop-manuals.com/golf-mk6/index.php?id=5185 .
Hope this helps,
Please feel free to add any more tips!
All the best,
Andrew

Great post Andrew! Thanks!

Andrew, great write-up! Very clever of you to fashion your own tools. If I were a little younger and a little more spry I would attempt this myself, but I have an appointment with the dealer tomorrow. Unfortunately the most recommended independent around here (Syracuse) does not work on newer TDis.

2010 JSW P0544 (g235) Repair

At 76,000 miles on my 2010 JSW I received the Flashing Glow plug light…. Interestingly ours broke on startup, after a 45 mile drive in the evening, car parked in the garage, then light came on during startup the next morning. Connecting to VCDS showed a P0544 code, listing G235 Temp sensor, Bank one. I tried reseting DTC several times and driving some more, but the code always came back instantly.

After reading Andrews great how to, writeup I decided to follow exact steps…. (this would be a good thread to link to a FAQ for the error received...) I thought I’d share my experience to any one else that might be considering.

I ordered the “pre-turbo” exhaust sensor from the dealer, $165, (same PN as Andreews writeup 03L-906-088L., with “black Plug) and from vw.snapon.com, the VW socket #T40055. (the tool shipped from WI, so took 2 days to ship to IN.)
I picked up a tube of high temp anti-seize from autozone. Total investment aprox $200.

Not being a “great” mechanic, but long time DIY attempter, I figured this job would take me longer, especially when I realized, I wouldn’t be able to see with my eyes the sensor. (it’s visible but inaccessible from the bottom looking up, but hidden and nearly finger untouchable from the top down. (you can briefly touch the metal wire elbow.) From start to finish it took me 9 hrs to complete, but I work slowly and required some “mental” cool down periods when things didn’t go my way, which mostly was due to not having enough room to access things, and hand cramping due to poor location / not enough wrist room, plus droping tools / wire and having to get unstuck / refound… This job made me envy the manufactures that get to assemble things in assemblies not installed in the car… I wish current VW engineering made some efforts to make these complex cars more serviceable as there just isn’t the room to easily access the many multitude of things between the firewall and rear of engine that might need repair.

To assist with my vision i took an external web camera, put on my computer and dangled from the top, and rotated the desktop screen in options so when the camera was backwards, the screen showed “correctly”.. This extra vision though it helped to see, still ended up not being enough for a single person to do to put the special socket on the 02 sensor, turn 1/3, rekey socket, turn 1/3 etc..… What ended up happening, is I had the wife come, lay down on the ground, and from below guide me while looking giving me instructions like move ½” to drivers side, forward toward bumper, with socket in hand and the open socket grove pointing downwards, once that was done and following andrews steps I finally made some progress.. To reinstall I did fashion a coat hanger, and wife helped support from bottom, while I worked on the top.. Some how it worked, and after installing i was thankful to save the "dealer" cash, and knowing i had completed it properly... Much thanks to the TDI club and its members, for writeups and postings like andrews which helped me diagnose and fix my "first" non-scheduled repair..

I attached some pics to show how difficult this was to see, from the webcam i had between the firewall and engine... (I wanted to have one that was bottom up, so you could see it, but missed that one... It really is easy to see once you find it from the bottom. The challenge is of course getting to it from the top!.)

Awesome team work between your lovely wife and you Robert!! This is a difficult job, but you must feel a great deal of satisfaction tackling it and succeeding!
Kudos and great tips!
All the best,
Andrew.

135,000km 2010 Golf

I had this fail recently as well. In my case it gave up the ghost when I hit a fairly jarring pothole entering a highway.

I just wanted to say thanks to all of the people who posted their experiences on this forum. I was stressing a lot about this because I was over 1000 km away from home and it failed on a Friday night.

I ended up driving the distance with the sensor out (mostly highway), thinking that passive re-gens were probably happening. In any case, at no time did the DPF light come on.

I had a tech replace the sensor as soon as I got home, and he told the ECU to require a regen. I went for a drive and within 15 minutes the light went out.

Since then I've noticed much better fuel economy than I've had all summer. I'm not sure if a poorly-functioning sensor had anything to do with it, but I am now back to where I was day-to-day last year.

I have the same code (001348 - Sensor 1 for Exhaust Temp Bank 1 (G235)). I'm thinking of tackling this myself, it doesn't sound too bad. I found a sensor just taking a glance in the engine bay, but that may have been the sensor after the turbo. Is there any 'zoomed out' diagram or photo of where in the engine bay I should start feeling around/looking for this sensor?

Found on http://images.google.com and typing "vw g235"

It also turned up this handy removal and installation guide: http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...talling_exhaust_gas_temperature_sender_1g235/

devilyellow said:

I have the same code (001348 - Sensor 1 for Exhaust Temp Bank 1 (G235)). I'm thinking of tackling this myself, it doesn't sound too bad. I found a sensor just taking a glance in the engine bay, but that may have been the sensor after the turbo. Is there any 'zoomed out' diagram or photo of where in the engine bay I should start feeling around/looking for this sensor?

Click to expand...

Sure, Go For It!!!
Best to not let the car run too long with this sensor faulty. It will prevent Re-gens, causing bad news for your DPF.
Sorry, no better pictures "Zoomed Out" it is simply too close to the firewall.
Here is a picture from Myturbodiesel, showing the sensor port and 90 degree wire loop, hopefully helping you find yours!!!

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Feel from the Top of the engine. The 90 degree tube will be about all you can grasp. Yes, it is packed in there. The special socket is pretty well mandatory.
Review robertsparker's post, it nails everything!!!
All the best!!
Andrew

Is it the thing behind this circle thing? (I seriously know how turbos work and the proper terminology, but everything is so crammed together back there).

There looks like there is more room to reach in from the passenger side, should I be going in at a different angle?

Another question - if I was able to get this up on a lift, would it take much less time and be easier to access?

devilyellow, how did you make out? I have an 09 Jetta that just developed the same problem. Dealer wants close to $800 to replace and I'm debating tackling myself.

Just did this few days ago. I took the heat shield for dpf off to give me a bit more space. I think only way to access is from the top, actually its very easy to slip the modified socket on the egt and remove it. I had a heck of a time putting the new one back it. As another poster posted, i went from under the car and used a long magnet. I had to rotate the sensor to get the head into the hole first then rotate the entire thing to line up to the threads. That was the hardest part. Paid 130 or so for egt and modified a thick walled 17mm socket. I would never pay 800 for something like that..

I just did this two weekends ago and here is the good/bad news. I just realized I may be in the wrong forum too. (My car 2009 jetta tdi).

The Good: It can be done from the top, but you have to do it all by feel. I bought a 17mm from the pawn shop and altered w/my grinder. If you do that, just try to get the "open" cut to allow the metal tube pass through the socket to have that gap just big enough--not too much. You can kind of guess your cut with the new sensor to see how big your cut needs to be. I had a lot of wanting to "twist off" because the fit isn't completely 6-sided. Also, using a 1/4 driver w/3/8 conversion gave more space for my hand in that area between turbo and the firewall. And the 1/4 had more teeth for ratcheting.....the 3/8 was just too much for the space (too big).
I got the sensor for $168 at the dealer, I may have paid a bit more but was able to get to it that weekend.
Routing the thing back to where it plugs in wasn't too bad, and laying on top of the engine not too bad either.
I was able to get a dry fit with anti-sieze and not get that on the sensor to get it started but it wasn't easy. And it didn't want to twist when tightening which would have been a nightmare with that attached cable.
THE BAD:
Lots of beer and be patient. Get it loose and try to get the 90 elbow to spin with you. I just kept taking it off and bent and broke the old one but obviously had the new one to put back on (yes, I got impatient).
Its all by feel but you can get your hand on it and the tool, but if you have to look at it its not going to happen. There is just too much covering that area to see. (you can barely see from the bottom if you want)
I don't know to this day which way the 90 bend is supposed to be facing, on the sensor. I guess down. There was plenty of covered cord to route away from the turbo and up the firewall back to the connection plug. I had one metal fabric cover fall off and I have no idea where it snaps back on. I think a previous mechanic took it off and just folded it back on....nice.
If its bolted into hot turbo metal I think it will be far enough away to be safe from burning up now. The silicone shielding cover seems durable.
I let the boss drive the car for 2 days and it didn't turn itself off. So I did w/my obd tool (don't have vag com yet). With my luck it will come on tomorrow.

I think all this started when I put official 507 oil in the car.....who knows?
I got a 2080 code and this is the link that led me to believe this was the issue.
Hope this helps someone out.

Mine went out the other day... Did you guys notice that in your instrument cluster does not show your phone book anymore? I literally have to go through my phone for a number and dial it that way vs. going through the display, but then I could still talk through the car

1dieselsteve said:

Mine went out the other day... Did you guys notice that in your instrument cluster does not show your phone book anymore? I literally have to go through my phone for a number and dial it that way vs. going through the display, but then I could still talk through the car

Click to expand...

Are you saying that your phone book disappears when the exhaust temperature sensor fails?

Yes... All it displays is check engine light. But I can look at the radio stations and fuel consumptions.

Found the egt probe at www.ezvwparts.com and my dealership matched the price.

Long time viewer, first time poster. Thanks to everyone for all the great information on this site, and to the hoster.

My wife has a 2011 Sportwagen TDI, and I changed the fuel filter on Sunday. Coincidentally, when she drove it on Monday, the glow plug dash light is flashing and the check engine light came on on Monday and hasn't shut off since. I had my mechanic check the code, and I got P0544 EGT Sensor Bank 1, Sensor 1. A search on google leads me to this thread which is a great help.

Some questions I have are, if I paid VW $50-100 to scan the computer would they find out anything else? Could code P0544 be for something else? I just want to make sure before I order the part. The local VW shop wants $190 for the part, but needs the VIN to make sure I get the right part...guess there's four different versions of it...is this true? I have the CJAA engine.

I also wanted to get the snap-on tool, but how do you order stuff from snap-on? It seems like you have to be a dealer to order online??

My wife's a stay-at-home mom, so she's only driving it on an as-needed basis, and I told her if the DPF light comes on, to drive it straight home. Do you see any issue with this?

Thanks for the help.

2micron said:

Hello all, Here is a simple guide to help replace your G235 Temp sensor, Bank one. It is a 2-3 hour job at home, on ramps and you will need the special tool, (VW #T40055 or Snap On #FRXM-17) mentioned above.
I recieved a flashing Glow Plug and a P0544 code.
VCDS will tell you G235 and which Bank is faulty.
The Part number for my VIN was 03L-906-088L.
...
Hope this helps,
Please feel free to add any more tips!
All the best,
Andrew

Click to expand...

Followed your post exactly, and wouldn't of been able to without it. I had no interest in removing all the exhaust components so this was the best way.

My only additions/changes were I couldn't use my TuneUp bar with 6" extension as per your photo due to it hitting the firewall pad and I wasn't getting enough torque, ended up on a 4" extension with a straight handle ratchet (8").

DIY my own socket from a non-impact deep socket, worked just fine for me. As much as I wanted to be able to insert the sensor from above, there's no way. Coat hanger holder FTW as shown. Btw, the sensor is 6oclock from the turbo and 4 inches inward if you're trying to find it from above.
Careful when you lower the plug of the sensor down, I got mine stuck in between some pipes and took nearly a hour to fish it back up and out. Couldn't actually see it, everything is SO compact in there so be careful.

Dealer ordered me 03L-906-088AP mistakenly, as I gave him "03L-906-088" to go off of, originally assuming the letters were revisions. ETKA for my car description says "AP" is for before DPF and before turbo. Although it WILL plug in, VCDS still showed 930c on the bank. Lesson, make sure you order the right one!

Calculated Soot got up to 36g before I parked the car waiting for the sensor, as described upon fixing I went from MIL+GlowPlug lights, to just DPF light. Went for a drive and regen kicked in right away and go Calculated down to 3.6g within 25min.

Thanks again 2micron!

Well wife had this code pop up on her 2014 Jetta, only 5500 miles on it but we have no factory warranty because we bought it as an accident repaired car, insurance totaled it out @ 1200 miles. Dealer cleared the code said it was inactive and now I wait to see if it comes right back or was a fluke, dealer said it may have been a glitch. Good thing was they didn't charge her for the scan as they were already in there programming new extra key fob for her.

I had this sensor replaced for the second time on Thursday. It was under 20k kms since the last time so it was totally covered by VW under their parts warrantee.

The day before it went I parked the car during a particularly powerful regen. It had been many years since my car smelled that hot (and of burning plastic or something).

I realize this is a datapoint of one, but I am thinking now that the new ECU update that ensures more, but smaller regens may be a possible fix for this kind of occurrence. They did say in the campaign that they were fixing a readiness problem...

Just a theory.

Talked to wife last night, she is out of town for a marathon and she said the MIL and flashing GP lite are back so time for a sensor change I guess.

I just got done pulling the old part out. Found out the wiring goes all over the place....makes it hard to trace the wire to the sensor to make sure you get the right one, but it is where the pics show it to be. The snapon tool is very handy and thanks for the directions...couldn't have done it without them.

Here's the problem. The part from ID parts ends in 088L, but my part ends in 088EJ and my sensor is shorter. Couldn't tell this until I got the sensor out. Is there a reason why the change and will it be OK? The new sensor's going in at this point because I need to get home tonight, but just wanted some reassurance that all's going to be good.

Thanks

Addendum to my post. Drove the car an hour home. Car runs fine. CEL and glow plug light still on. Also, as soon as I started the car, the DPF light came on...DPF light never on before. All lights still on when. I got home an hour later. Any ideas what's up?

What's up is your sensor isn't sending data to the computer (for whatever reason). Because the computer doesn't know the exhaust temperature in that particular location, DPF regens have been blocked. You have driven far enough without a DPF regen that the computer is now unhappy about the soot load in the DPF, hence the DPF light being on. If you continue to drive the vehicle with a malfunctioning EGT sensor, the DPF will continue to load with soot to the point that the DPF light starts flashing, and ultimately completely clogging with soot and necessitating replacement (big money).

Summary: fix your EGT sensor problem before you ruin your DPF.

If you can view the new sensor's data in VCDS and it is correct/accurate, you may need to perform an emergency DPF regeneration to get things back to normal.

Thanks Veedub.

What brought all this on is a few weeks, I changed the fuel filter, and the next time I start the car, I get the EGT sensor engine code. I replace the sensor, and the next time I start the car, the DPF light comes on. Thought it was odd.

Short of going to VW and paying them $90 to scan my computer, I don't have access to the VCDS tool.

Today, I did pull the connection apart and tested the sensor using a multimeter, and I got a reading of 248 ohms, so it's within spec. Not sure why the computer wouldn't be getting the right reading from the sensor.

Used a generic scan tool last night had two codes. 2544 which is for the EGT sensor I replaced...not sure why it hadn't cleared on its own. My friend cleared the code. The other code is 2463 which is for excessive soot. We started the car and let it run for a minute and 2544 didn't come back on but 2463 did. Now that the egt sensor code is cleared (at least for now), will the computer allow a regen?

Tomorrow, I have a 1 hour drive to work, and I'd like to take the car to see if it'll regen. Is there a way to tell if the car's doing a regen? It'd be nice if a dashboard light came on during a regen.