Heater switch light bulb replacement 'How to'

About the "other bulbs", I assumed that they're covered somewhere from within this vwvortex thread,
but not really sure if or where they may be in there. Larry

You must have some really skinny fingers Bob.

I used the hose to get it out, and I pinched the hose with needlenose pliers so it wouldn't just push the bulb into the hose on install. I tried to install the new one with just needlenose but the first bulb only lasted about 30 seconds... so the second one I tried the different method.

Thanks.... found a bulb at crappy tire, all is well...

Now i just need to find out how to change the bulb for the heated seat control, any ideas?

I also thought this was an LED and we just bought the car this weekend - I sent an email to the dealership this weekend telling them they needed to fix it but then came across this site - told my husband I would fix it for him tonight - thank you TDI Club!

'97 B4 Passat Details:
Vent Control Knob Light:
- Pull to remove center knob, on the B4 this is the temp contol knob. This will reveal a tranparent green bulb holder in the center of the knob mechanism. Squeeze the holder and gently pull while wiggling will release the holder. The holder and bulb will come out as an assemble.
- The bulb can easily be replaced, no need for the vacuum hose as on the other models. The bulb is 2 watts, the single bulb lights all 3 knobs.

Ash Tray Light:
If you gently pry off the plastic cover that covers the above three knobs, this will reveal the ash tray bulb. Remove the screw on the right side of the holder, a clip retains the holder on the left. Push down while rotating the bulb assebly outwards will gain access to the bulb.

Thanks Wingnut, thanks TDIclub! My light went on the fritz a couple weeks ago and I've been dreading tearing the dash apart to find the loose connection. $3 and a short length of 1/4" drip line hose and I'm as good as new, plus a spare for next time. FWIW, I saw some other threads questioning whether the original bulb was 1.2/2.0/2.7 watts. On my '03 Golf, I could read 12/1.2w off the side of it, so the Sylvania 2721 appears to be the perfect replacement.

Bought my jetta 2001 2 years ago and always thought it just didn't light up until i found this out today Thanx wingnut!

Excellent advice, thanks - I can see my climate controls again! It took me two minutes start-to-finish, and my method used a short bit of vac hose, with a thick wooden toothpick to press against the bulb as I pushed it into place - that allows the vac hose to hold the bulb but keeps the bulb from being stuck on the hose.

SCDiddy said:

I want to add that a common symptom is that the light flickers on and off. I spent many hours tearing apart my dash expecting a loose connection and I found a bulb with a loose element.

Thanks wingnut, these write ups are a great help.

Click to expand...

My symptoms are like those above... one Q, does this one bulb illuminate the entire HVAC tier? Temp, fan and airflow selector?

concours said:

My symptoms are like those above... one Q, does this one bulb illuminate the entire HVAC tier? Temp, fan and airflow selector?

Click to expand...

Yes, that single lonely bulb. It's a magical house of mirror tubes behind the scenes.

So, I changed the bulb, used WN's hose idea ... and then slowly the 20 years of cobwebs clear, I HAVE the proper tool... my buddy gave it to me when he got them from the Sylvania auto lamp distributor for his 'Vette. Damn, it's tough to get old. So here's the proper one, split end installs, other end is hollow, jams firmly over the lamp to remove it. The ghetto tool is frighteningly similar... lol, GOOD JOB!!! [/IMG]

Thanks guys for the post. Thought I would have to tear apart the dash.

http://www.angelfire.com/wi3/rks/ccv.html

One vote for a sticky.

Rip-off price from a dealership/t was was noted to be ~$50 (or worse!!) when actual cost is next to nothing. With an easy 3 dozen or more TDI members taking the excellent advice given in this thread, we're talking some serious avoided costs!

Woot for TDIClub

I've owned my B3 Passat now for 2 years and the HVAC control light has been out for that long if not longer. But I knew it was an easy fix just never decided to do it, but I did. The only problem I have is that It doesn't seem to be bright enough to light up all 3 dials/symbols/numbers. Here's a pic, perhaps I got the wrong watt bulb?

Also how much trouble is it to change the bulb that illuminates around the cigarette lighter, I guess the trouble is getting the lighter out. And I'm assuming that the light for the heated seat control is LED, and you have to buy a new/used switch?
Thanks
CRC

FWIW, I had to use a small screwdriver to reach in there and "un flatten" the contact wires in teh socket. My bulb wouldn't stay in.

I just bent them slightly in toward the center so they would firmly grasp the bulb.

I just used my leatherman to do the whole thing

Well I guess I had to answer my own question, I did need the brighter bulb, and also while I was in there I realized that the reason the far sides of the controls don't light up is because there isn't anything there for to light them up! The plastic "Fibre Optics" that send the light from the light to the other parts only go to the inner most parts, so I guess this is what it looked like from the begining.

Still, I can't believe that they would have it that unilluminated!
Oh well I guess I'll never know.
CRC

Hmmph. A good thump has been turning the light on for years now.

Doug Huffman said:

Hmmph. A good thump has been turning the light on for years now.

Click to expand...

I did that too for months...until even that didn't work.

stupid bulb!!!

heater switch light You are a lifesaver,I too have had my heater switch apart several times only to not find the problem.Small anoyance but such a simple fix!!

also did5th brake light conversion,looks cool !!

Blew this job out this morning after driving around with the bulb being burned out for about a month now.

This is a 5 minute R&R.

Bought a two pack of Blazer 2721 replacement bulbs from Autozone. They were $2.99. Also picked up 2 inches of 3/16 vacuum hose to grip the old bulb and install the new one. Used the inner part of a regular ball point pen to push the new bulb off out of the vacuum hose.

Something else... Instead of using a rag and pliers to pull the knob, I used one of those pieces of rubber for opening jars and a small pair of channel locks. Good grip, no teeth marks, pulled right out (that's what she said ).

Replaced mine last week following Wingnut's tutorial. It was one of those jobs that actually was easier than I thought. I was even able to pull of the fan speed knob by hand. Once I had the new bulb set part way, I was able to push it in fully with my index finger.

Thanks again wingnut

JettaJake said:

One vote for a sticky.

Rip-off price from a dealership/t was was noted to be ~$50 (or worse!!) when actual cost is next to nothing. With an easy 3 dozen or more TDI members taking the excellent advice given in this thread, we're talking some serious avoided costs!

Woot for TDIClub

Click to expand...

Two votes for a sticky! Can't believe I just found this one linked off of the general "how to" thread. Had this bulb replaced 18 months ago by the dealership just for convenience when they were replacing the brake switch under recall. They charged a dollar and change for bulb and $37 in labor. When I saw that and exclaimed "forty bucks to change a bulb!?" the guy responded about having to take apart the dash to get to the bulb. Liars. Anyway, the bulb went out again last week, so I'll be doing this R&R today or tomorrow.

Since my last post, it has taken me about 45 minutes to drive to AutoZone and get the bulbs ($2.99 for 2), head to Ace Harware for a half-foot of 3/16" vinyl tubing (27 cents), and then back home to get the needle-nose plyers and a sock and swap out the bulb. Oh, and post this reply. That's almost what the stealership charged in labor for the same job. Unbelievable.

just did this fix .

drove to kragen auto store....bought the sylvania 2721 bulbs...two bulbs for $3.29 (stuff more expensive here).
The guys at the store even gave me some used fuel line tubing for free.

Easy to do fix.

Just wanted to add that using the fuel line tubing is the easiest way to remove the old bulb.

When replacing it....cut/slit the tubing on one side so it does not hold on to the bulb too tight.

When re-inserting bulb...make sure you insert the bulb vertically . Check with a small flashlight and you will see how it goes in.



great diy . thanks Wingnut.

great post wingnut

I have a 1996 passat I purchased a few months ago. The lights had not worked from the beginning.

I stopped at kragen and purchased 2 of the brighter bulbs for a whole 3.19. Removed the knob with a good death grip and dropped the lights in. With the green light holder there is no tube or needle nose required.

Really it was a whole 5 min. It was very anti-climatic.

Thanks again

This rocks!

Although, I had to pay $5 for my bulbs (in Alaska dollars)

My bulbs keep blowing. I use a wrag to insert the bulb(no oily fingers). The Passat has a little plastic holder that is right behind the knob so no need for tubing

any idea why?

thanks

Here is a suggestion that just might save your fan switch when you change your bulb. This is not an attempt to hijack this thread but to save you some potential trouble in the future. Do not hit on this switch if the bulb is flickering on and off.

Take a file and file down the two nubs (about 50%) on the end of the dial shaft (they are positioned 180 deg apart) after you remove it. This will not only assist you with removing it with out pliers next time but just might save you from having to replace the switch assembly at a later date. I do not have a photo of this at this time. My wife is deployed (Army) and has my digital camera. I will update this when I can track down a camera.

Place the dial in fan position 2 or 3 when you are pulling the knob off. The reason for fan position 2 or 3 is if you look at photo # 3 you will see the fan is in Position 4. When you pull the Knob out you are also pulling on the black plastic Moving Contact which is being held in only by the two clips circled in RED. Pulling the knob out in position off or 4 could allow the contact to be pulled out of alignment and damage the switch.

The switch has three main parts.
1.) Dial
2.) Moving Contact
3.) Fixed contacts


Photo of 1.) Dial and 2.) Moving Contact
Note the red circle in this photo shows the contact, this is only held together by slipping into a slot. This is a weak point and if heated it might cause it to fall out. If you ever have to fix this switch, place a little JB weld in the socket to secure it.


Photo of 3.) Fixed Contacts
This photo shows the two points that actually hold the movable switch wafer in place.


Photo of 2.) Moving Contacts in 3.) Fixed Contacts
This shows the fan switch in position #4.


OK UGLY PHOTO TIME.




This photo shows the Movable contact melted and missing a good portion of plastic. The metal contact had come out and rested down in the bottom of the switch and shorted out the contacts. NO the fuse did not blow nor did the wiring melt.



This photo shows some of the melted plastic bonded to the the inside of the switch.



This shows the damage. Photo speaks for it self.

Photo Credit: Some photos were copied and used from this thread in my write up.

Thank you WingNut for the How To and Duck Toller for the part # and Thanks for everyone else that added input. Found out I just had to pull slow by hand and the knob came off.

$3.49 for a 2 pk of bulbs at Checkers, little higher than some older posts but every thing is going up in price. $0.99 for 1 ft of hose. So $4.50 to fix it and have a spare bulb, Way better than $50 for the dealership. Thanks again

Mike