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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old February 25th, 2015, 08:32   #1
jbturgeon
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Default Car won't start after 100A engine start helper (-35 celsius)

Hi, it was very cold yesterday and when i tried starting my jetta tdi 2003, the engine would rev slowly and then the battery will be die after few attemps. I tried an engine starter helper that gives an extra 100A to try starting and engine starts but dies after a 1 second running. Now that i have left my battery inside my house charging for 12 hrs, i try starting my car and it would just turn over and over. I tried touching the - and + battery cable, nothing. I really don't know where to start lookind at things. Car is full of diesel, ASV is not stuck, all my GP and EGR and vaccum lines are newly changed from last fall. There seems to be a good diesel flow from and to all injectors. I cheked all the big fuses (engine, left panel) ok.

Is there an electrical surge protector or a relay that could have burn from the engine start helper that gave an extra 100A?

Need my car badly!!

Thx
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Old February 25th, 2015, 08:50   #2
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Is it possible that the -Neg and +pos cables were mixed up at any time?

When you go to turn on the car now, does the check engine light illuminate when you turn the key to "run"?
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Old February 25th, 2015, 09:11   #3
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Re-check all the fuses. Sometimes hard to see.
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Old February 25th, 2015, 09:53   #4
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All the fuses looks ok. I will double chk. Is there a possibility that a relay (109 by example) is cooked and make the explosion not possible?
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Old February 25th, 2015, 09:54   #5
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No mil. The only thing that make a sound after few tries is the oil light. But oil level looks ok. Also, the timing belt is fine.
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Old February 25th, 2015, 10:13   #6
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Getting a glowplug light? if so the realy 109 is fine.
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Old February 25th, 2015, 10:17   #7
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The battery sounds like it is toast. It could eat up any extra amps your booster was putting out if that is the case.
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Old February 25th, 2015, 10:18   #8
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If the check engine light does not illuminate when the key is turned on (or the GP light) then I would swap in another 109 relay - hopefully you have one.

Failing that, start looking at fuses as indicated above.

You never answered the question - is it possible that the Pos and Neg cables were reversed at any time?
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Old February 25th, 2015, 10:25   #9
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The pos and neg are ok. The GP light comes on and stay on for a normal time as when it's cold. The battery could be the issue. I was only wondering if a relay could have blown with the extra power i gave to the battery. Now i really don't feel like i will find the issue. I am sure it is electrical. Can the engine be flooded?
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Old February 25th, 2015, 10:25   #10
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Not sure of anything really!!
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Old February 25th, 2015, 10:30   #11
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sounds like the pump may be totally air locked
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Old February 25th, 2015, 10:42   #12
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Always start with the battery, if it is bad or even on it's way out it makes diagnosing anything else 10^3 harder.

How old is the battery?

Starting amps isn't important as reserve capacity to fire off the glowplugs. Since you mentioned the GP light does illuminate we can assume relay 109 is fine for now. How old are the glowplugs?

How old is the fuel filter? How does a sample of the fuel look? Do you use additives?

Even a bad battery will still try and charge but all the electricity just gets dumped as resistive heat.

A TDI being a diesel can not flood but will smoke once it does fire off if excessive fuel is in the engine & exhaust. This will subside.
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Old February 25th, 2015, 11:50   #13
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Do you have access to a voltmeter? - most 100amp start chargers will have one somewhere on the machine.

I would connect a voltmeter to the battery and turn on the ignition and headlamps.

The battery voltage under those circumstances should go no lower than 10.5-11v (even that is low). If the voltage drops lower than that, then it either needs to be charged or replaced.

If the above checks out, do the same thing but while cranking (assistant helps). The voltmeter should drop no lower than 10v while cranking - if it drops to 9 or 8v, same as above - needs to be charged or replaced.
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