Get a super-plush wash mitt from Autozone.....and a bottle of Meguiers Gold Class liquid wax -or your favorite...BUT NOT A "CLEANER" wax.....that's for neglected cars of lower value.....
I would get that wax on there asap.
Use the pay-n-spray place:
"Wash it" with high pressure soap, soak your mitt with the soap too. Run the (4-minute?) meter out and leave it dripping and soapy. Wipe with mitt, starting top to bottom. (So you don't take lower panel grit up to the top and scratch it; wheels done last, etc. Mind grit in the mitt, rinse as needed)
Put more bucks in the meter, rinse everything on the soap setting,
then regular rinse, then two minutes of "spot-free" rinse. If you are going to immediately wax the car, skip the spot-free.
Drive as little as possible to a cool shady place to wax it. First wax should be intensive, ANY PAINTED METAL YOU CAN FIND ON THE CAR. It's laborious, you MUST get off any wax you put on! After complete waxing, repeat waxing the car, and you can relax the standard a little as far as waxing
every square millimeter of paint you can find. Use light find any missed spots.
However, doing this and repeating evey 6 months will allow you simply spray the car for couple bucks without any wiping more than half the time. It's my method for keeping it looking good, but easily and cheaply. I even wax the windows. The rain visibility is worth it!
Avoid non-touchless automatic washes. Above is the best way to clean with least damage.
Also, rearding your Fuelly from another one of your threads:
NOW is the time to fix it- start over if you have to, set it to "miles since last fuel-up" and enter the 89 you had on the odometer at the time. Calling it full at zero miles is as close to accurate as non-scientifically possible. So 3 whatever gallons at 89 miles- next tank 500 miles for 13 gallons for example.....THIS WAY adding miles driven at a fuel up should equal your odometer.