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VW B5 Passat TDIs This is a general discussion about B5 Passat(>98 (2004-2005 in North America)). Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old April 17th, 2013, 04:28   #61
thundershorts
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Looked at that you posted. A short block from vw if you check around would be in the 2300 range. your old sb is a core charge but what you really get is a brand new sb. I wasn't thrilled with the look of the bores of that ebay offering. I have a core sb sitting here which I've kept simply cause its worth 1000 as a trade in. considering you could take the geared bsm out of your bum engine and sell it before giving it to vw, for maybe 8-9 hundred, that might reduce your cost of buying the new sb down to 1500. The feeling of knowing you now would have a zero time unit might be a consideration. Someone might love to get a bsm geared for a greatly reduced price. That way, you take a lot of if's out of the job. Lets see what Jason thinks about that...getting rid of a block which has had a big problem,including water going through it new everything below the head, even comes with new filter/cooler/pressure relief and proper head gasket, a 60 buck or so item.
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Old April 17th, 2013, 10:01   #62
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^^ they're closer to 2600-2700 for a reman short block from VW... I've ordered three of them over the last few years, and 2 were actually re-manufactured, one was new.. None had a geared BSM.. Maybe things have changed over the last 2 years and they come with a geared BSM, but since his was already updated, he's better off from a cost standpoint to repair the existing engine..

Keep in mind the piston didn't randomly fail, it had significant foreign object damage which likely weakened the piston.. it wasn't a flooded engine that had antifreeze pumping through it with any significant volume.. it was a slow coolant loss..
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Old April 17th, 2013, 12:41   #63
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Originally Posted by thundershorts View Post
no surprise rock auto doen't have access to that piston. It is a item that normally rock auto would buy from a dealer who discounts but they would lose money filling your order. if you were to do as Peiphil suggests, using used piston and used rings, and not putting a nice 30 degree crosshatch using a 240 grit hone, you'll have a smoker, as the cyl glaze will prevent seating for the used rrings or new ones for that matter. I feel certain Jason knows better than to attempt that. As I said, rock auto would not even be a consideration for me to find parts. Did you try J.C.Whitney? They are about as useless.
That is just your your opinion and is not a fact.
Unlike a gas engine his block most likely still shows the original cross hatch hone marks
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Old April 17th, 2013, 14:36   #64
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True, it most likely will still show crosshatch., however the hatch is visible through the glaze that forms on cyl walls and is quite smooth. unless the glaze is removed through honing, the rings will never seat properly. That is the facts, however you are welcome to dispute them. on the next engines you build, try not removing the glaze and give us a report on how that works out.
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Old April 17th, 2013, 14:47   #65
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Jason, all the shortblocks supplied for last couple years are built with geared bsm. I think that engine hydrolocked to break the piston. a ceramic gp tip would have pocked piston and head but not the cause that split the piston, which in that case, bent/damaged rod as well. These engines were never intended to be rebuilt, hence no oversize pistons available as well as undersized bearings for certain application.
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Old April 17th, 2013, 15:52   #66
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that engine didn't hydrolock.. they bend rods when that happens..

Not sure where you get your info from, but I can get .5mm oversized pistons for BHW's easier than stock size.. undersized bearings are easy to get too..
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Old April 17th, 2013, 16:33   #67
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Originally Posted by thundershorts View Post
True, it most likely will still show crosshatch., however the hatch is visible through the glaze that forms on cyl walls and is quite smooth. unless the glaze is removed through honing, the rings will never seat properly. That is the facts, however you are welcome to dispute them. on the next engines you build, try not removing the glaze and give us a report on how that works out.
I have quite a few HUNDRED German and English diesel rebuilds under my belt.
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Old April 17th, 2013, 17:21   #68
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well let us know what happens when you don't remove cyl glaze
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Old April 17th, 2013, 17:33   #69
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well let us know what happens when you don't remove cyl glaze
And let us know what you see when you remove your shorts!
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Old April 17th, 2013, 17:47   #70
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I tried leaving the glaze once.. never again.. 90k later and it still burned oil..
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Old April 17th, 2013, 17:49   #71
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well let us know what happens when you don't remove cyl glaze
Also do you know?
Are you a mechanic?
You seem to type from a book and not experience
Argue with a fool yeay
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Old April 17th, 2013, 18:05   #72
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I tried leaving the glaze once.. never again.. 90k later and it still burned oil..
I typed to just give a slight rub by hand with a bit of emery cloth
A ball hone wil drop a lot of very nasty stuff into the crank case
A clean wipe with emery will work good followed by a clean rag.
Funny how your oil rings didnt get through the so called glaze but it run ok?
When ever I use used rings I measure end gap in the cylinder and give them a light sanding on the out side edge.
Common sense is not always that comon
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Old April 17th, 2013, 18:23   #73
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well let us know what happens when you don't remove cyl glaze
There really is no such thing as cylinder glaze. A smooth cylinder just mean the cross scratches have worn off and the rings have polished the surface.
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Old April 17th, 2013, 19:03   #74
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I typed to just give a slight rub by hand with a bit of emery cloth
A ball hone wil drop a lot of very nasty stuff into the crank case
A clean wipe with emery will work good followed by a clean rag.
Funny how your oil rings didnt get through the so called glaze but it run ok?
When ever I use used rings I measure end gap in the cylinder and give them a light sanding on the out side edge.
Common sense is not always that comon

I never really worry too much about dropping stuff into the crankcase since the oil pan is off and everything is really easy to clean..

Ya the engine ran just fine.. just went through a fantastic amount of oil and after a few long HARD runs with a tow dolly and another car strapped to it, the oil consumption was reasonable enough to put the car into service, but it used about a quart in 1500 miles..
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Old April 17th, 2013, 22:09   #75
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There really is no such thing as cylinder glaze. A smooth cylinder just mean the cross scratches have worn off and the rings have polished the surface.
For a lot of years I flew around Alberta for Alberta Power Canada which included the Canadian/American Dew line in the Arctic.
Ya hungry polar bears trying to get through a barred window to try to eat you!
Lots of times you had to work with used parts because you had no other choice
I never even once had any issues using a used piston and rings in a diesel engine in the REAL world.
Like I said carefull with the sandpaper on the block and the used rings as well and it can and does work!
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