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VW B5 Passat TDIs This is a general discussion about B5 Passat(>98 (2004-2005 in North America)). Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old April 5th, 2013, 05:42   #16
thundershorts
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Well if its a piston, it will be puffing in the crankcase, obvious blow by. If no puffing, bent valve not closing, which would be heard in exhaust or intake, but most likely exhaust. I concur the head obviously has to come off, but I'd still have a look at the valve gear first. If it was head gasket, the pressure built in cooling system would have made something blow up/fail,
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Old April 6th, 2013, 22:16   #17
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If coolant leaked into the cylinder, then perhaps it hydrolocked...leading to all sorts of other potential problems.
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Old April 7th, 2013, 04:50   #18
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like a bent rod, however, that wouldn't lead to zero compression. Since the cam was replaced, something may have gone amiss topside in that area, and its easy enough to look, especially since its locallized to one cyl.
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Old April 7th, 2013, 05:41   #19
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He either dropped a valve or there is a hole in the piston. I have seen where the intake valve had dropped and immediately got pushed up into the intake port sideways barely damaging anything in the cylinder. Motor sounded just like this one, just a miss and vibes. If he took on enough water to hydro lock then in order to get a no compression reading the the rod would have had to snap. I have seen this too but that piston does not stay in place and eventually drops down where it gets shredded by the rotating crank. Sounds like a box of rocks when this happens. That is not what happened here.
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Old April 8th, 2013, 16:48   #20
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Well the weather finally got a bit warmer here in NY so I started on the car.
I got it in service lock position and removed a number of accessories around the engine bay to get at head.
Bear in mind I'm not a mechanic and don't play one on TV either so go easy on me here.
Now to remove the head I know you have to disconnect the obvious like glow plug wires , intercooler hosed, turbo oil pipe, various electrical connectors on back of head etc.
Obviously the 10 bolts holding the head to block.



Where I'm a little hazy is what to remove on the manifold side of the engine. Do I disconnect the exaust manifold from head or from the exaust . Doese the turbo come off with head.
Does AllData have this procedure in their database. I was subscribed for a while and let its lapse but may get onboard again.



Also on the camshaft , how do I mark this or can it be locked. I know the camshaft comes off with the head, but how will I get it timed right when installing again?



Thanks again to everyone for your input. The way I figure it as a learning experience as I'm anxious to see what happened. If its terminal then I will call the scrap guy and not keep it on life support.
If it can be saved then I may need some help getting it back together, in the proper order without TOO many pieces left over :-)
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Old April 9th, 2013, 19:03   #21
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before you get too far into it, putting the dead cyl in firing position, with its piston at tdc, blow air in it through the gp hole. do you hear air in the air intake, the exhaust, or crankcase?
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Old April 11th, 2013, 19:47   #22
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Everything needs to come off. Remove intake manifold and EGR cooler. Remove tandem pump and coolant flange from back of engine. I suggest remove turbo from exhaust manifold. Remove 3 bolts from exhaust manifold to down pipe. Then remove all nuts from exhaust manifold. If you try to just remove the nuts from head to exhaust manifold with turbo in place, it will be impossible, if not very difficult, to get the head off. You won't be able to push the manifold far enough away from the head to clear the studs. I realize you are not a mechanic, but you will be in really deep. I also found it helpful to use an engine hoist to lift the head straight off. Good luck. When you pull off this repair you will definitely have taken your mechanic skills to a new level.
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Old April 12th, 2013, 03:39   #23
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if an air test was done, and it was determined that there is a piston problem, the engine has to come out anyway, making head removal easier. Hopefully you did that and found that the problem is in the head before removing it.
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Old April 12th, 2013, 04:13   #24
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You are not that far from Port Jervis and Jason TDIjetta99. If you want the job done right the first time get assistance.
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Old April 12th, 2013, 04:43   #25
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you can pull the entire head with turbo, intake manifold, tandem pump all still installed, just disconnect at key points... but you will need a hoist as the entire package is quite hefty
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Old April 12th, 2013, 16:18   #26
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Hey guys,
Thanks for all the encouragement and advice. Actually Jason has worked on the car and did timing belt and BSM replacement as well as cam shaft etc.
He is about an hour and twenty away but I'm not driving the car there on Three cylinders.

Thanks Jim for the input. I was just figuring the same thing. No reason the head should not come up with hoist without removing the intake, turbo and accessories. They are all attached to the head and should come off as one unit, albeit a heavier unit :-)

The head is currently loose with pretty much everything disconnected exept the oil feed for turbo from the block. The braided pipe above the support bracket that attaches the turbo to block.
Quick question should that line be removed from Block or the turbo end. The top line unfortunately was a casualty and succumbed to my over eagerness and rust.
I read the post afterward on saving the turbo feed line with different methods to save.

I had a bit of fun with the s Shaped box wrench, 12 mm getting off that 3rd nut from turbo to downpipe. I had to file it down in order to get a snug fit over the nut and make turn.

So hopefully by tomorrow night I will have the head off and be able to report back with whats happening. If its a valve issue with no piston damage I may give tou a call Jim and work a deal on that head.
Oh another question , that sensor that screws on exaust manifold above the turbo. How do you get the wire off of that?
I know it sounds like a dumb question but I can't see a removable connection unless its crimped on there pretty good, but it cant be hard wired?
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Old April 12th, 2013, 19:37   #27
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Quote:
I know it sounds like a dumb question but I can't see a removable connection unless its crimped on there pretty good, but it cant be hard wired?
The exhaust temp sensor cable teminates over on the left side of the engine bay on the firewall, sort of under and behind the coolant reservoir. There is a plastic bracket with several connections. One of these is the temp sensor. A little tugging should identify the culprit. Fishing the wire across the rear of the engine will be tricky, there may be some wire ties that have to be cut.
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Old April 12th, 2013, 19:53   #28
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I pulled the head on my passat just about two months ago for my head gasket repair. It was involved but very straight forward.

I hope you have the timing belt tools...get that engine locked into tdc. I removed the egr cooler and then the intake manifold first. Then I removed the turbo with manifold as one. It was a little tricky getting it out but with patience it will come out. The plug for the exhaust temp sensor is just under the coolant reservoir. The wire snakes behind and low, back by where the tandem pump is along the fire wall. There are 3 zip ties holding it in various places. Just follow the wire over to the plug. DO NOT TRY TO PULL THE TANDEM PUMP, there is no room. I left it on and I had no issues with getting the head off and out. You do have to disconnect the two fuel hoses which are tricky to get to. The vacuum line is easy, just undo one of the crimp clamps and it pulls right off....replace crimp clamp with screw clamp when re installed. There is room to remove the plastic coolant housing just under the tandem pump and I recommend doing this. Just two 10mm bolts...its tight but I got it... and so can you. Loosen the hard coolant line running along the glow plug side so you can get to the glow plug connectors. This also helps get that plastic coolant housing out of the way more.

Once this is done, you are ready to remove the timing belt. Set the engine to tdc and place the various locks. I even marked the belt according to its direction and I marked various points on both the belt and the pullies to help with re installation. Loosen the tensioner nut and release the tension using an allen wrench...6mm i believe. Once loose, place your locking pin and then continue rotating clockwise till you feel resistance, the belt should be very loose at this point. Now snug the nut up so the tensioner stays in this position and the belt should come right off without doing anything else. I did this so I would not have to mess with the cam sprocket. I didnt have vag-com so I didnt have a way to set the torsion value...so I just left it alone. Now remove the tensioner and the idler pulley, remove the rear timing belt cover and one final look over everything.....you are now ready to pull the head. Loosen the bolts 1/4 turn at a time....or less and in the correct removal sequence. When removing the head...make sure everything is out of your way and lift straight up. Once you lift it up, get it out of there or else you risk buggering up the head surface. I rested my arm on the valence just above the head as I lifted to give me leverage.

Hope this helps....and good luck. Its not that bad really! I did it and it was my first time turning a wrench on a vw and a tdi for that matter.... Car is now nearing 1400 miles on repair and is running great.

***
EDIT
***

I found it easy to unbolt the turbo oil drain line from the underside of the turbo rather than the pan. Also, I may have made this sound easier than it is. You better know what you are doing or you are never gonna get this car back on the road. Read up on my turbo diesel dot com. They have a how to section for the b5.5 that should serve as a great resource. Getting the timing set right is crucial!!!! YOU NEED SPECIAL TOOLS FOR THIS JOB.

Last edited by newlitemotorist; April 12th, 2013 at 20:08.
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Old April 13th, 2013, 13:12   #29
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Well I managed to get the head off with everything intact on the manifold side including tandem pump and turbo.
The engine hoist is a Godsend.
[URL=http://s285.photobucket.com/user/mcglock910/media/image_zps60126ec8.jpg.html]

The bolts for the head drop into the head a bit and will interfere with removal unless they are taken out completely. The two on the rear firewall passenger side couldn't be removed because they were restricted by the manifold.
I raised as far as possible and tied them off.

[URL=http://s285.photobucket.com/user/mcglock910/media/image_zpsa3c8735b.jpg.html]

The head is pretty heavy with everything attached. So from what I can see it looks like a Dropped Valve.

[URL=http://s285.photobucket.com/user/mcglock910/media/image_zps787b0ec0.jpg.html]

If thats what a dropped valve looks like? But it has dropped -

The pistons themselves don't seem to have any damage from what I can tell on preliminary
Inspection , but I have to rotate the engine to bring the other two to top for further evaluation.

[URL=http://s285.photobucket.com/user/mcglock910/media/image_zpsad807dd6.jpg.html]

That clear star pattern on the concave of piston is that the burn pattern. I noticed its different on one than the other.
Now back to further examination of the head.
Do you think this head could be re-used and just repair the valve or is it possible the head
Is warped.?
Thanks again for all the input. Nice write up Newlite I appreciate it.
For what its worth ALLDAT didn't show diddly on head except an etch a sketch drawing.
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Old April 13th, 2013, 13:47   #30
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Well I spoke too soon. When I rotated the engine and examined the other pistons,
Bam.
**** sherlock a crack. damm.

[URL=http://s285.photobucket.com/user/mcglock910/media/image_zps4ba4cd5a.jpg.html]

The piston does have some cavitation on top compared to the smooth surface of the others so i may have some water making steam in there from gasket been shot.

Never seen a cracked piston before,






Cracked one is all the way to left.
Now what are my options? Can i replace just one cylinder? Or should I "Just laugh knowingly and walk away"
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Last edited by Chrismak; April 13th, 2013 at 13:51.
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