BHW Balance Shaft Module replacement

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leicaman

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jasonTDI

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aja8888 said:
You are probably right. All I have gotten is a run around from Impex. I wish I could post the string of e-mails I have recieved from them in the last two + weeks.
Not to doubt you and your angst for not getting the parts but they get the same from VW. they will tell you what they are told. It's that simple....Seriously. They are stand up guys.
 

aja8888

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jasonTDI said:
Not to doubt you and your angst for not getting the parts but they get the same from VW. they will tell you what they are told. It's that simple....Seriously. They are stand up guys.
Stand up guys? School is out on that for me. And I won't go into the details on why I got frustrated from a lack of response(s). Another thing I did not like was that they charged my credit card for $1345.00 immediately, knowing full well they had no idea when they could ship me the parts.

It took me three or four days, two e-mails and one phone call to get the charge reversed and cancel the order.

Every online retailer I do business with will NOT CHARGE my card until the order ships.
 

TDIJetta99

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03... Faster than yours =]
ok I just looked over the PDF and I'm confident doing this procedure.. no problem.. I'm missing a few of the tools, which I will get if someone needs this job done.. I'm guessing I'll have the same trouble getting the parts as everyone else though
 

MOGolf

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Before this thread gets too cluttered with comments that are not related to the replacement procedure :rolleyes: , here are pictures of the alternate puller suggested by ScotR.


And the pressure plate that comes with it (use instead of 30-11). Note that it fits into the crank pulley bolt hole and has an o-ring to provide friction to hold it there.


This tool is installed over the end of the crankshaft. The diameter of the opening in the "bottom" is just big enough for the crankshaft. The pulling legs are meant to fit into the holes of the replacement gear. They are not spaced for the existing sprocket on the crankshaft. They need to be ground and shaped a little to fit the hole spacing.


The pressure screw has a 24mm head whereas the T40001 has a 19mm head. The counterholding hex on the body is 32mm.

Now I need a volunteer to try this out on. I know one other member obtained one of these and may use it soon.
 
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DickSilver

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I received my UPS shipment from Impex early this evening. One well-taped box with the geared balance shaft module in a very flimsy VW/Audi box inside, and all the other parts, each in its own bag. All checked on the Impex list, PLUS what looks like a new timing pulley, 038-105-263-F. Gotta check that one with my mechanics at Fast Enough Performance in Lexington Wednesday morning.
 

MOGolf

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That is the part number for the crankshaft timing belt pulley. There should be no need to replace it, but the 045 105 229 bolt that holds it on gets replaced.
 

DickSilver

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MOGolf - As I examine the Bentley manual and the BHW engine BS Module replacement that you and Oilhammer authored, I interpret that when the toothed (timing) belt crankshaft pulley is replaced, the engine must be at #1 cyl TDC exactly, and that the pulley is held in place with tool T10050. Then the new bolt 045 105 229 is torqued to spec. There appears to be no keyway or other pinning device: the toothed belt pulley is just held by friction under the torqued-down bolt. Am I right? Do I make sense?
 

MOGolf

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The pulley is not replaced, it is reused and reinstalled. The crankshaft has a flat spot. The pulley has a D shape on the back to fit the crankshaft.

The T10050 is NOT used to counterhold the crankshaft. Do not have it in place while tightening the bolt. I recommend the Metalnerd Crank Yank tool to counterhold the crankshaft.

The engine is set to TDC at the proper time of removing the timing belt. It remains there throughout the procedure. If properly held in position while removing/installing the bolt, the crank won't move far. It can be realigned and the T10050 reinstalled for belt installation after the bolt is tightened.

It would be a safe practice to install the timing belt with the crank pulley bolt reasonably tight. Once the belt is installed, and locking tools removed, the final torque could be applied to the crank bolt. This would ensure that there is no chance of turning the crank too far without the camshaft turning.
 

DickSilver

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I was delayed a full day by the big ice & snow storm, but this morning all the main roads were cleared and I was able to get my 2004 B5.5V driven to Fast Enough Performance for the geared BS replacement. Tomorrow, maybe, I'll have an improved car!
 

jennogle

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I finally got my car back!

As I posted before, my car's chain broke on November 22nd at a little over 80,000 miles. Due to lack of parts availability, I finally got it back just one week ago (January 23rd). That's TWO MONTHS without my car. :mad: Even scarier is the cost of the repair (including replacing the turbo and other parts damaged by the broken chain) came to over $4500! Ugh.

My mechanic (MF Auto in Knoxville) did an excellent job, and the car is now running great again, but I can't say I will recover any time soon. I urge any of you who are on the fence about not having this repair done preventatively to THINK TWICE.

Jenn
Silver 2005 Passat GLS TDI Wagon
 

jennogle

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Talking to VW

Yup, I am working on a letter to VW now. Matt saved the old parts, both for me and to show other customers what can happen to their cars. He also took pictures of my car before he made the repairs. I plan to send the complete invoice, photos, and letter to anyone at VW or elsewhere who will listen.

Jenn
 

deming

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Here is the $64,000 or in Jenn's case the $4500 question----

At what point should we have this procedure done ?

We have two 05 Passat TDI wagons and thus far they have both been good cars for us. They both have the VW extended service contracts for 7 years or 100,000 miles and we purchased both of them new. I change the motor oil every 7000 miles using 505.01 motor oil and we maintain them well. One car has 30,000 miles and the other has almost 40,000 miles.

My fiance says we should just drive them until they blow and then make VW extended warranty fix them. We all know the probelm with that scenario.

Do we bite the bullet and take them down to Oilhammer and spend $3000 per car or do we trade one of them off and say the heck with it.

Jenn just spent $4500 on her car and has been without the use of her car for quite some time. That is a big chunk of change!

If VW corporate would provide me all of the parts Oilhammer will need for the updates (at no $$ charge), on both of our 2005 TDI cars, I would gladly pay the labor. I can eat $3000 in labor, but VW should step up to the plate and at least cover and provide the parts.

Dieses issue ist ein GroBe Problem for VW and fur mich!

Thanks
Deming
 

aja8888

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jennogle said:
Yup, I am working on a letter to VW now. Matt saved the old parts, both for me and to show other customers what can happen to their cars. He also took pictures of my car before he made the repairs. I plan to send the complete invoice, photos, and letter to anyone at VW or elsewhere who will listen.

Jenn
It will be interesting to see what parts were put in Jenn's car. Another chain drive setup? Updated gear setup?
 

Sprocket

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deming said:
Here is the $64,000 or in Jenn's case the $4500 question----

At what point should we have this procedure done ?

We have two 05 Passat TDI wagons and thus far they have both been good cars for us. They both have the VW extended service contracts for 7 years or 100,000 miles and we purchased both of them new. I change the motor oil every 7000 miles using 505.01 motor oil and we maintain them well. One car has 30,000 miles and the other has almost 40,000 miles.

My fiance says we should just drive them until they blow and then make VW extended warranty fix them. We all know the probelm with that scenario.

Thanks
Deming
I'm kinda in the same boat. I have the extended warranty as well and have just over 90k miles. I'm a sales rep and am on the road constantly. Unfortunately, I don't have another car that I can use. If I did, I'd park the Passat for the time being. I'm waiting for Oilhammer to get his next shipment of parts in so I can high tail it to him and get this taken care of. My situation is that the car is making noise, vibrates, & rattles like crazy. I'm fully expecting the extended warranty to cover the cost of the BS replacement. No, the chain has not broken and caused severe damage yet... but, I have all of the symptoms so something is obviously wrong with my car. They should cover it and pay for it while the repair bill will be substantially less than waiting for it to completely fail and pay more. I believe Route 66 had his replaced under the warranty and the chain had not broken either.
 

jennogle

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Parts I had replaced/upgraded...

aja8888 said:
It will be interesting to see what parts were put in Jenn's car. Another chain drive setup? Updated gear setup?
Here is a list of parts that were replaced/upgraded on my car, as well as the labor costs. Note that some of these were "collateral damage" due to the chain failing. The most expensive part damaged was the turbo. I was "lucky" my car failed in my driveway, not out on the road, or my entire engine would very likely have been damaged beyond repair. This might help some of you who are on the fence trying to decide whether to wait till their car fails or get the work done preemptively.

Oil Filters (2) $24.00
Sealant & Shop Supplies $30.00
Front Crank Seal $12.00
BS Module $1324.00
Gears $150.00
Bolts $12.00
Timing Belt Roller $50.00
Tensioner Roller $110.00
Timing Belt $90.00
Water Pump $95.00
Coolant $39.00
Oil Filter Gasket $9.00
Oil (10) $70.00
Turbo Charger $1100.00
Turbo Gaskets $30.00

Total Parts: $3130.00
Total Labor (14 hours): $1120.00
(+Tax) = $4500.00
 
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oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
I am thinking most extended warranty companies will NOT pay for this repair as an upgrade for prevention, some *might* cover it IF it breaks. I would doubt many would though. We deal with extended warranty companies all the time, most of them are a joke and just suck money from you for no good reason.

The last 3 issues we had come through that were NOT covered:

BMW inline 6 cylinder breather upgrade, these freeze up and allow the crankcase pressure to build up so high as to fracture the plastic valve cover, which is what happened on this X5 in the single digit weather we had.

Passat W8 engine, left cam phaser stuck full advanced, so left bank's intake valves are open WAY sooner than they should be at lower RPMs, car is virtually undriveable and it requires engine removal to fix.

Toyota 1AZ-FE engine head bolts strip out of the cylinder block, causing a nice coolant leak that looks like a simple head gasket, only to find upon disassembly the block has little to no head bolt threads left in it, and requires a new block :eek: .

Basically, in every case, the engine pretty much needs to have a 'failure of an internally lubricated part' which means the sucker almost has to throw a rod out the side of the block.:rolleyes:

Now in the case of the BHW, technically the chain drives the oil pump, and usually 'oil pump' is in fact listed as a covered item. But I cannot make that decision.
 

leicaman

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One thing that may force them to pay for the upgrade is the fact that the chain-driven oil pump part is no longer produced or available, so the new part will have to be used. My 2 cents
 

deming

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Oilhammer,

Would you be willing to ask VW "Real Driver" some questions on my behalf?

What would you reccommend we do with our two Passats?

If I could get real driver to pay for a big hunk or a majority of the parts; I would be willing to cover the Labor. If this thing lets go it will or could cost them significantly more money.

Car one has 30,000 miles and Car two has 40,000. We like these cars, but this is a hard pill to swallow. I just do not know what to do in this case.

I would like to tell you to order me up the needed BS related parts for at least one car if not both cars.

Thanks
Ben
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
Ben, my knee-jerk reaction is you have a little more time than the rest of us, with only 30k and 40k miles.

I would be glad to look into or talk to anyone for you, through the shop. You can contact me via PM if you like.
 

deming

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Oilhammer,

Thank you. It may mean the difference between keeping the car (s) or dumping them. We would like to keep at least one TDI Passat. We like the cars. The warranties are the VW "Real Driver" extended warranties.

What information would you need to make a call for me on my behalf?

The 40,000 mile car is loud and rattles like a bag of stove pipes.
Nothing like the 30,000 mile car. I am a "car guy" where Jenn is not.
Neither of us want anymore problems. If "Real Driver" wants to pay for parts, then we would be willing to cover labor costs at your shop.

VW AG can then reimburse us down the road for the labor expense if the letter writing campaign goes anywhere. I am not going to hold my breathe with VW and I certainly would rather pay $3000 in labor than $6000 for the whole deal.

Thanks in advance,
Deming
Illinois
 

deming

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I would take $2000 worth of VW parts, at cost, for each of my two basket cases. Not only did they screw up the design and engineering of our engine, but they cannot even supply enough of the newer parts
(BS upgrade) so that the problem can be fixed.
 

aja8888

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Route 66 said:
I could see VW giving customers $1000.00-$2000.00 checks towards a new VW.
Since most of these chains are failing outside of warranty (now), I personally give that a "slim to no" possibility. Car makers have to be brought into court and almost tarred and feathered before they will pay or fix anything outside of the warranty period. Now, if it is deemed a safety issue, then that's a different story and they will recall the sold vehicles.

Tony
 

leobg

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aja8888 said:
Since most of these chains are failing outside of warranty (now), I personally give that a "slim to no" possibility. Car makers have to be brought into court and almost tarred and feathered before they will pay or fix anything outside of the warranty period. Now, if it is deemed a safety issue, then that's a different story and they will recall the sold vehicles.

Tony
I agree. Out of warranty - they won't care. However I do believe this is a safety issue. Siezing up the engine at hwy speed is quite likely to end up with a crash, especially for someone who would ignore the red oil can on the dashboard - believe me - there are many people that would ignore it... VW has "some history" of recalling out of warranty vehicles, however, judging of the numbers of TDI 2004/5 sold, I doubt we can raise enough noise. Until someone of us end up in a crash due to a seized up engine on the hwy (the hard way).

My car is now closing up 60K miles (93K km). I do believe mine is getting lauder (it is hard to judge when there is no other passat TDI around), however it doesn't vibrate that bad (IMO) or making any noise aside of the diesel clatter I am used to (again IMO). I don't have extended warranty and my factory warranty - drivetrain - not sure if this is covered at all under drivetrain - hope it is, will expire mid this year.
$3K+ (turn that in CDN and taxes - $4K+ :( ) is a lot of money to swallow and hope VW would cover something/anything. As much as I like my Passat and was planing to keep it longer than warranties go up to, I may want to get rid of it... oh my...
 

aja8888

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leobg: yes, it's hard to swallow that cost, but once the chain drive is gone, the car should be much more reliable and have less engine vibration. I am keeping mine for another 100k or until the wheels fall off after putting this much cash into it at once.
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
I think these are great cars otherwise, and once this is done should be the end of it. My biggest issue right now is the parts shortage. :rolleyes:
 
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