Malone Stage 0 tune on Stock TDI possible?

Mark@MaloneTuning said:

The Stage 0 "SDI" tune is designed for VE and PD TDIs without boost (no turbocharger). .

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Mark seems to have left the forum, so I’m directing this question to everyone. Does the turbo have to be removed? It seems this Malone ECU would work w/o need for mechanical modification to the standard PD TDI. And yes I know a natural aspirated diesel is slow, but I also drive a 60 horsepower hybrid (so I’m used to slow)

NOTE: money is scarce,
so that’s why I’m looking for
a cheap fix to my blown turbo

You needed a new thread for this instead of the existing one you already had on this subject? It doesn't have to be removed but you will have to disable it properly such as reroute the exhaust, intake and oil lines for instance. You can't just leave it in place without doing anything, without issues.

I didn’t realize the forum was running-out of Hard drive space, and needed to limit the number of posts ;-) I created the new thread, because the topic was different from the old thread. Previous topic was diagnosis (why no boost).

New topic is how-to-fix using Malone Tuning stage 0

.

Way to fix is to replace turbo. Not running out of space but you are still just creating unnecessary threads when one would do. Same issue and could still be discussed with the same thread. No idea why you still insist on doing this.

The main reason to not have multiple threads on the same basic topic is to help minimize how much time gets wasted saying things that have already been said elsewhere.

Super-true in the case of very common topics like "how do I fix my limp mode" or "is this a good oil for my TDI".

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

I started Usenet forums in the 80s. Their rules required you make a new topic when the subject changes. Previous subject was “diagnose” and changed to “Malone Stage 0.” I still follow those netiquette rules.

Lightflyer1 said:

Way to fix is to replace turbo.

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It’s $4000 (dealer estimate). $1500 labor plus parts. Want to help pay the bill? (silence). I don’t have that much money. IN THE MEANTIME the turbofree Malone Stage 0 is only $250.

- $250 is Much cheaper (90% off)

I’m just trying to fix my car without bankruptcy. You Lightflyer are being the opposite of helpful.

BeetlePD said:

It’s $4000 (dealer estimate). Want to help pay the bill? (silence). I don’t have that much either. IN THE MEANTIME the turbofree Malone Stage 0 is only $250.

$250 is Much cheaper.

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This is not the most favorable way in which to solicit help or advice. There are many members on Fred's who will go out of their way to assist you, both with technical questions and good forum manners. They are trying (sometimes repeatedly) to nudge you towards a style of communication that will earn you the most helpful replies, and help others when searching forum content.

Malone Tuning is a great source for questions pertaining to their tunes that cannot be answered through a search at Fred's. A thirty second advanced search shows that Owain (Owain @malonetuning) posted this morning. You might pm him, or contact him through email. Using dealer labor quotes does not aid the situation- a VNT15 turbo from IDParts starts at $559. Then DIY or have Brandon at SMS European install for you (at a fraction of the price and with better service). There's also 6 LKQ yards within a 60 min drive of Santa Ana, and I've been to them all. TDIs don't show up often, but you can search their inventory and pull a turbo when one pops up. There are also some in the classifieds and CL, often at a great deal.

$4000 is a rip off.

You can get a new turbo for a PD engine for about $800.

Someone who knows what they're doing can easily replace it in six hours, and that's not rushing. Quicker if they're an expert with a hoist and all the right tools.

So are they charging $530 per hour in labor?

hskrdu said:

They are trying (sometimes repeatedly) to nudge you towards a style of communication that will earn you the most helpful replies, and help others when searching forum content.

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Exactly...well stated!

BeetlePD said:

Lightflyer is not helping. He is criticizing. Not just me, but post after post, he criticizes other people who just want some help. He reminds me of a bitter old man. Do you really think Lightflyer’s behavior (insulting other posters) is acceptable?

I do not

My mom taught me: “If you have nothing nice to say, then say nothing.” Lightflyer should memorize & apply that quote to himself.

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You sound like a good judge of character to me.

Aside from that, you're probably better off having your car repaired back to a stock, or close, configuration. There is more to the turbo delete than simply tuning it. Removing the turbo and blocking it's oil supply and reconfiguring your intake tract stick out as starters.

If you search hard enough you will come up with someone who can repair your car reasonably.

Techincally the turbo is an emissions equipment. Deleting it is technically illegal if driven on the road

BeetlePD said:

Lightflyer is not helping. He is criticizing. Not just me, but post after post, he criticizes other people who just want some help. Do you really think Lightflyer’s behavior (insulting/criticizing other posters) is acceptable?

I do not. My mom taught me: “If you have nothing nice to say, then say nothing.” Lightflyer should memorize & apply that quote to himself.

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Not criticizing. I told you up front what others here have just repeated. Multiple threads on the same topic (your bad turbo and what to do) are not helpful. It (turbo) can't be just left there and nothing done. Oil, intake and exhaust would have to be rerouted at the least. Tuned again for this. Sorry you find that to be criticizing.

Don't forget your K&N oil filter and cold air intake, royal purple oil, and fuel booster cig lighter socket econ enhancer when you delete that watefull fuel econ robbing turbo and put a killer 20 year old vintage tune into!
So happy to see smart car owners get one step ahead of the evil oil companies. Don't forget to pick up Greta Thunberg on your way out with your new uber car! She will love you long time for all the smart moves you have chosen to save her childhood.

Get a used turbo for a few hundred and have and independent shop install it. You won't be happy with how 40 hp moves a 3000 lb car.

That's for an engine that's Not 20 years old and worn down.
Seems like your mind is made up so no reason to feed this stupid thread anymore. You know all of our positions on this. Besides. When you delete your turbo you cant be a member anymore .... you will have a DI . Not a TDI. So goodbye
Also how are you getting pa tags in CA? Your sig says CA.

Just to add a data point: I bought a used vnt-15 from a forum member 4 years ago.
It was $300. I installed it in under 4 hours and it is still going strong 50k miles later.

Mongler98 said:

When you delete your turbo you cant be a member anymore.... you will have a DI . Not a TDI. So goodbye

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Car is registered at my parents PA house. People keep telling me this is a “friendly forum” and then I get told to leave (rolls eyes). I WOULD PREFER TO HAVE TURBO but I simply cannot afford it. Even a used $300 turbo will require hiring a garage to install it, so I’m looking additional $1500 labor cost (dealer estimate).

I don’t have the money.
I don’t have the money.
I don’t have the money.

Sorry to be so repetitive but nobody seems to be hearing my words: “I don’t have the money.“

No worries, just put on the thick skin (social media).
Mostly we just try to help, some not so sensitive, but we try.
Problem is almost no one has experience running that set-up. 70 hp sounds reasonable, will need a bit of plumbing, hopefully Malone can help with that.

Or someone who has done it may chime in.

Try this search engine-
VW TDI Search Engine

Jow far in pa are you. I'll install it for $150 bucks plus travel fuel and maybe a beer or two. lol. I'm at the md pa border. Sorry. Didnt mean for you to actually not be a member it was a sick joke. You seem so made up about this delete it comes across as stubborn. I can be a bit of a jerk, I do apologize.
Dealer est im mate is bs. There is a trusted mechanic thread here and a search by state. $100 an hour for a 4 hour job.

If you dont have the money I suggest you sell it as is or part it out and go find a 90's honda.
It's no uncommon for members to help each other out. If your in CA maybe someone can help you there. Not sure if your in pa or ca.
It's not a difficult job honestly and the tools you would need would cost about $30 at a harbor frieght. There are plenty of diy write ups on how to do this.

If you need extra money, go donate plasma. It's like $300 for a few first donations and takes about an hour of your day. You can donate twice a week too. I donate and make $14000 a year doing it but that's a special case. Mostly you can make about $3,500 a year doing it regularly

Most places won't even install owner supplied parts much less used ones. People with little money have to learn to do their own work. Get a Bentley manual or go to the library and see what they have on hand. Learn what needs to be done and the tools needed. Read here as well for DIY instructions. Then start trying to source a used turbo. Sell something, get a part time job, payday loan, hire out for day labor work etc. The only thing that will help you is education and money. The kindness of strangers only goes so far and I doubt crowdfunding will help you. Most of us have been cash poor at one time or another and found our way out of that situation.

Does anyone know what it costs to plumb the car sans turbo? I imagine the tune is like 2 hundred.

Lightflyer1 said:

payday loan

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ARE YOU HIGH?
you do know that those things have up to 200% interest IMMEDIATELY.
they are always scams (legal scams) that only drug users and suckers use. and 99.99999% of them REQUIRE you to sign over the title or your car just to get a check cashed.

I know exactly that. But I have known people that had to use them once to get out of a bad situation. It worked for them and they paid it off. When you are broke you have to do things you normally wouldn't do if you had cash, other assets to sell or could get another job. Just because I mentioned it doesn't mean you should do it. About like suggesting selling your blood for cash. That isn't really a good idea either. You can do it but that doesn't mean it is a good thing to do. I donate blood not sell it.

Lightflyer1 said:

I know exactly that. But I have known people that had to use them once to get out of a bad situation. It worked for them and they paid it off. When you are broke you have to do things you normally wouldn't do if you had cash, other assets to sell or could get another job. Just because I mentioned it doesn't mean you should do it. About like suggesting selling your blood for cash. That isn't really a good idea either. You can do it but that doesn't mean it is a good thing to do. I donate blood not sell it.

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its PLASMA, not blood, its the water in your blood with a little bit of protein. its the ONLY way that a lot of life saving meds are made. Many people do it for just the good cause. its quick easy tax free money.
IF BeetlePD started a go fund me or something i would send like $5 his way for sure. but i hate to see this site become associated with handouts. I like many, have been so far down the path of being poor/ homeless. you can always fix your situation, it just takes time.

BobnOH said:

Does anyone know what it costs to plumb the car sans turbo? I imagine the tune is like 2 hundred.

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To minimize costs and changes , how about just gutting the turbo out and Welding in a partition between the intake and exhaust side ( inside the turbo that is) ....disconnect / cap off oil line

Minimal cost because no changes to the intake or exhaust system .... plus when money becomes more available simply swap the turbo out because nothing else has been changed ... simple plug and play ( don't forget to uncap and hook the oil line back tho....

Andrew

why not lower your insurance and put a hold on your tags to save a few bucks and take the bus? or find someone who works at your work and pay them the fuel cost plus a few bucks every day to come pick you up. save up and fix it. why spend $300 bucks on a thing that will cost you MORE MONEY. its not a smart move.

You can buy a pretty decent assortment of cheap tools for a couple hundred. A lot of us probably started wrenching on our own cars when we were young out of necessity. It's a great skill to pick up.

Mongler98 said:

its PLASMA, not blood, its the water in your blood with a little bit of protein. its the ONLY way that a lot of life saving meds are made. Many people do it for just the good cause. its quick easy tax free money.
IF BeetlePD started a go fund me or something i would send like $5 his way for sure. but i hate to see this site become associated with handouts. I like many, have been so far down the path of being poor/ homeless. you can always fix your situation, it just takes time.

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It is blood when it comes out of your arm. It is only plasma after they process it.

I hate go fund me accounts. Just another way usually to cheat people out of their money. I give to legitimate charities, if I can't help personally those I know need help.

Andyinchville1 said:

To minimize costs and changes , how about just gutting the turbo out and Welding in a partition between the intake and exhaust side ( inside the turbo that is) ....disconnect / cap off oil line

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This is the most useful post here, because you actually answered my question (about disabling the turbo & stopping the oil leak). THANK you

As for driving to work, I have a Honda that still runs. The Beetle can sit for a few months while I accumulate some money to repair it

BeetlePD said:

BTW I have noticed the car only burns oil, when attempting turbo boost. Under nonboost conditions (like steady 60 mph cruising) the car does not burn oil. After 1000 miles driving I only lost 1.5 quarts.

It makes me think the oil injector to the turbo Only works when boost is engaged. And no oil injection otherwise.

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This makes no sense whatsoever
Oil psi is generated when the engine is running. A steady stream of oil is always flowing though the journal bearing. There is no injector. The turbo is always making boost. The engine is just eating it up but it's still compressing air. Only at idle does ot really not make much if any boost. 1.5 quarts in 1000 miles? Holy cow that's a lot of oil. If you said 1 quart every 3k miles I would not be too worried but this is a lot of oil. You could easily have a runaway and I would not even start it up until fixed.
If oil stops flowing for even a minute at idle you will damage the turbo.