G60 brake upgrade and failing

Ok so a while back i installed MKIV discs on my MKIII tdi, then i moved to braided lines and finally G60 calipers in front. after installing the front G60's with bigger rotors and bleeding the lines i started running into problems. i would have to pump the brakes to get them to grab. i bled the system a ton more and still not enough power. Eventually i gave in and bought a larger master cylinder 25mm and still i have to pump the brake once, and then apply. After that of course the brakes will lock up and launch me out of the seat. But what gives? I purged the lines and every thing??

Bench bleed the new master cylinder properly?

you mean did i bleed the master cylinder seperatly prior to install? No But on the other hand i am getting the same response i got when i had the original master cylinder on. I'll bench bleed it any way.

I don't know about MK 3 cars but on MK 4 cars you need to use the vcds to bleed the front brakes once the fluid has been let out completely. IIRR this has to be done on all ABS cars. Once the master cly. has lost all the fluid you have to run the pump to bleed the ABS part of the brake computer. You only need to do this on the front brakes not the rear according to the manual. The VCDS has a section in it to follow and will walk you through the bleeding.

Well on my mkIII I dont have ABS so that would not be the case. Pulling it appart as well as the engine this weekend and going to try and bench test it.

PS, Drive shafts were fun. Any one needs a hint. 12point star and a hammer is the best investment ever. To bad the 50 people i asked before and as i was doing it didn't have this advice :/

Bench bleed or use a pressure bleeder, I made one out of a bicycle pump. I don't remember about mk3 but I know mk2 has a valve attached to the real axle for the rear brakes so if you bleed on jackstands you have to lift axle or disconnect the valve lever.

Yeah, i gave up on the breaks for now and am working on the engine some more. Ill post updates when i get them.

I have found when doing conversions that you often don't have the same component geometry as the original donor. As such, I typically vacuum bleed the system, from each caliper, with them not mounted on the car, and instead rotated slightly so the bleeder screw is oriented up.

When I first started doing swaps, no matter how fast or hard I bled the system, it would always have air in it. Since I realized what was going on, I have never had an issue.

dead wheel bearing causing terrible knock-back?