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Fuels & Lubricants Discussion all about Fuels & Lubricants. synthetic oil, conventional oil, brands, change intervals, diesel grades, gelling and such debated items like that. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed. This forum is NOT for the discussion of biodiesel and other alternative fuels.

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Old October 3rd, 2018, 11:12   #16
k_pt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominicdx View Post
Hello, just seein if anyone has used this product.
If so how often? And what results should I expect?
I seen a YouTube video of a guy doing it on a TDI. But did not mention when to do this.
Thank you
What can I say about LM Diesel Purge?

Usually is used when most of the times it's a mechanical problem. So you're just wasting money ...

If you have a slight juddering, a slight injector deviation, LM DP could solve the problem, but it can't do miracles.

Most of the times, LM DP is used, doesn't solve, and you have to do mechanical repair, so you're just wasting an additional $10/15.

Also, don't use too many times, the chemical properties are too aggressive.
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Old October 5th, 2018, 17:09   #17
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my bad...I didn't know LM makes new additives. There was "Motor Spüllung" that was for cleaning engine before oil swap.

I always use diesel additives from LM because all modern fuels are crap and only damage fuel pump and injectors due low sulphur, zinc content. I never had fuel system problems. My oldest car has got over 300k km, my latest car has got 250k km
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Old October 5th, 2018, 20:23   #18
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Originally Posted by hajes View Post
my bad...I didn't know LM makes new additives. There was "Motor Spüllung" that was for cleaning engine before oil swap.
I always use diesel additives from LM because all modern fuels are crap and only damage fuel pump and injectors due low sulphur, zinc content. I never had fuel system problems. My oldest car has got over 300k km, my latest car has got 250k km
Generally speaking motor "flush" additives are not required or recommended. If your using a good quality full synthetic oil that tdis should be run on , that's more than good enough and your engine will stay clean internally.

Just remember sulphur itself isn't a lubricant, it's the process of removing it that causes the drop in lubrication properties in diesel.Bit of power service or any additive will help.

Injectors and pumps are wear items, they don't last forever, lubrication just makes them last longer. I've changed injectors at all sorts of mileage. Changed 3 on a truck with 20,000 km(before it's first oil change) and seen one changed on a truck with 3.2 million kms. Yes million.
Strangely no additives were used on either.
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Old October 12th, 2018, 21:28   #19
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Sharing my Diesel Purge set-up (pics below)

1 - Jiff Peanut Butter Jar (plastic), clean of course.
2 - In-line filter
3 - Hose, about 6 feet cut in half (3 feet for each, suction and return) 5/16 inch (5/16" = 7.937 mm).
4 - Long slim threaded bolt for center support (bolt 1/8" diameter)
5 - JB Weld (Kwik works just fine)
6 - One plastic elbow (5/16 inch)
7 - Clamps as may be necessary

You can choose any size hose or fittings you desire, just be sure they can be mated to the IP hoses.

Filter attachment - Bore hole in the bottom center of the plastic jar... using sand paper rough up the area around the hole as well as around the circumference of the nipple on the in-line filter. JB Weld the filter on the bottom of the jar. The hole must be large enough to accommodate the nipple on the filter. With mine, the nipple protrudes up above the bottom of the jar.

Plastic Elbow attachment - Bore about one inch from top of the plastic jar. Prepare for JB Weld.

Hanger - Bore a hole in the center of the plastic lid. With appropriate nut and washer screwed in place on the bolt, insert the threaded end through the hole of the lid. Place a washer and nut on bolt on the inside of the lid... tighten both nuts. Use a stiff piece of wire to make an attachment that will swivel on the head of the bolt with a hook on the other end for hanging.

Now, you have a good device to hang above then engine securely as you conduct the diesel purge or doing a prime to the IP after re-sealing, etc. Do not fill above the return pipe. Also, always screw the cap down tight. Air will go in around the hole for the bolt as fuel goes down.

I've been using this home-made device for 5 or 6 years. The JB Weld shows no signs of deterioration. NO LEAKS. I do use plugs when hanging away in storage. And, I do use small gator jaw Vice Grips to crimp off the hose when connecting and disconnecting.



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Last edited by AndyBees; October 14th, 2018 at 19:26. Reason: Clarification & add comments
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Old October 14th, 2018, 13:46   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyBees View Post
Sharing my Diesel Purge set-up (pics below)
Very nice! Going to use something like this the next time I have to do mine.
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Old October 14th, 2018, 14:39   #21
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It works, all i'm saying.
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Old October 18th, 2018, 08:48   #22
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Here's my setup. It's a mason jar with a couple holes in the lid. Hoses are 5/16" inside diameter vinyl hoses. It would be a good idea to use zip-ties to hold the hoses onto the hose-barbs a little better (or hose clamps). I didn't and they came off five minutes after this video, once the hoses heated up. Would have been fine if it had hose clamps or zip-ties on the connections.

I used epoxy to seal the hoses into the lid, but that's not really necessary. As long as they won't fall out of the holes you're good.

The filter is just a cheap in-line filter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zScRn8_eTc0
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Old October 19th, 2018, 05:20   #23
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A filter on the return is a must to keep from running loosened contaminates back through the injectors (as included in the above pics and videos).
Also as Andy stated the lines warm up from being heated. Take care that the lines are not run in a way that they will fold or collapse, starving the pump. Looping lines into a bottle did that once for me.
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Old October 19th, 2018, 05:20   #24
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A filter on the return is a must to keep from running loosened contaminates back through the injectors (as included in the above pics and videos).
Also as Andy stated the lines warm up from being heated. Take care that the lines are not run in a way that they will fold or collapse, starving the pump. Looping lines into a bottle did that once for me.
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Old October 19th, 2018, 18:17   #25
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My filter is on the supply line. It cleans the purge solution before it enters the fuel system and injectors.

The dirt that comes out will come through the return line and end up in the jar, but can’t make it back to the supply side of the injectors.

Putting it on the return line would be almost the same, except any dust or anything that was in the jar could enter the fuel system.

The first time I did a purge, when my car was about 12 years old, the fluid turned black. I’ve done it once more and there was no change in the fluid. So I would say it’s worth doing, but not often. It made no difference to how my car ran as far as I could tell.
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Old October 20th, 2018, 17:01   #26
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My set-up uses a tee instead of having the return line run back into the bottle. I picked up a generic coolant overflow bottle from my FLAPS and it hangs from the hood latch like an I.V. bottle. The side leg of the tee is connected to to the tube from the bottle. One of the laterals of the tee goes to the supply with an in-line filter, and the other is connected to the return. This prevents the bottle from getting hot due to the return fluid. Works like a charm.
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Old October 21st, 2018, 14:41   #27
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Yes, filter on supply
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