2002 VW Jetta TDI 01M No Shift G38 G68 Codes

CotJocky · May 7, 2017

Ok, as the title states, 2002 VW Jetta TDI with a 01M Automatic. The car currently has 204k miles on it. I got it when it had around 150k. Did a little work to it, new cam and followers, new Timing belt and some other odds and ends. I also changed the transmission fluid and filter. It looked like it has never been changed before. Very dark, smelled pretty rough. I also changed the gear oil in the final drive when I changed the transmission fluid. My dad needed a travel car and I put him in it. He has drove it 90 miles a day, 5 days a week, for 50k miles without any real issues other than needing a starter. It came time for the 200k timing belt job. Did all of that, replaced the EGR valve, cleaned the intake, changed the transmission fluid, filter and final drive gear oil. Put dad back in it and he drove it maybe 2k miles. Told me it wouldn't shift into overdrive going to work on day, but shifted fine coming home. He drove it the next day, wouldn't shift into overdrive to work or back. I broke out my VCDS and got this.

Code:

Sunday,23,April,2017,17:19:23:40961
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 8.1 x64
VCDS Version: 16.8.3.1 (x64)
Data version: 20161010 DS267.0
www.Ross-Tech.com
VIN: 3VWSP69M22M119405   License Plate: 
Mileage: 328840km-204331mi   Repair Order: 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chassis Type: 9M (9M - VW Jetta IV (1998 > 2014))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57
75 76
VIN: 3VWSP69M22M119405   Mileage: 328840km-204331miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine        Labels: 038-906-012-AGR.lbl
Part No: 038 906 012 FD
Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G500AG  4102  
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 00000  
VCID: 57BD5F65B5AD65FAAD-4AEA
3VWSP69M22M119405     VWZ7Z0A4171075
4 Faults Found:
17970 - Quantity Adjuster (N146) 
P1562 - 35-10 - Upper Limit Reached - Intermittent
17656 - Start of Injection Timing Regulation 
P1248 - 35-10 - Control Deviation - Intermittent
17969 - Quantity Adjuster (N146) 
P1561 - 35-00 - Control Deviation
17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer 
P1570 - 35-00 - 
Readiness: 1 2 0 0 0 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans        Labels: 01M-927-733.lbl
Part No: 01M 927 733 KT
Component: AG4 Getriebe 01M    4995  
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 00000  
VCID: 0C1770093CEB5622D0-095C
1 Fault Found:
00281 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (G68) 
03-00 - No Signal
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes        Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ABS.lbl
Part No: 1C0 907 379 J
Component: ABS FRONT MK60      0103  
Coding: 0004097
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 3169C1FDAB895BCA03-5124
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags        Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
Part No: 1C0 909 605 F
Component: 04 AIRBAG VW61 0202 0001  
Coding: 12340
Shop #: WSC 00066  
VCID: 275D2FA5C54D157ADD-5106
1 Fault Found:
01299 - Diagnostic Interface for Data Bus (J533) 
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments        Labels: 1J0-920-xx5-17.lbl
Part No: 1J0 920 906 M
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V58  
Coding: 07232
Shop #: WSC 27609  
VCID: 326BCEF1FE8F60D27A-5106
3VWSP69M22M119405     VWZ7Z0A4171075
2 Faults Found:
01176 - Key 
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
01312 - Powertrain Data Bus 
37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway        Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901 
Component: Gateway K<->CAN    0001  
Coding: 00006
Shop #: WSC 07200  
VCID: 70EF04F9300312C24C-5106
1 Fault Found:
01312 - Powertrain Data Bus 
37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv.        Labels: 1C0-959-799.lbl
Part No: 1C0 959 799 C
Component: 1H Komfortger·t HLO 0003  
Coding: 00258
Shop #: WSC 00066  
VCID: 377DFFE515ED85FA4D-4B02
Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1C1959801A
Component: 1H Tırsteuer.FS KLO 0004  
Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1C1959802A
Component: 1H Tırsteuer.BF KLO 0004  
Subsystem 3 - Part No: 1C0959811A
Component: 1H Tırsteuer.HL KLO 0004  
Subsystem 4 - Part No: 1C0959812A
Component: 1H Tırsteuer.HR KLO 0004  
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio        Labels: 3B7-035-1xx-56.lbl
Part No: 3B7 035 180 
Component:    Radio NP2        0005  
Coding: 00031
Shop #: WSC 00000  
VCID: 5DB14D4DD7918FAAF7-50EA
No fault code found.
End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 05:18)--------------------------

Erased the codes, took it for a 40-50 mile test drive, shifted fine, no transmission codes returned. Gave the car back to my dad, dad drove it the next day, the car wouldn't shift into overdrive to work or back.
Broke out VCDS, got this:

Code:

Tuesday,25,April,2017,12:23:15:40961
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 8.1 x64
VCDS Version: 17.1.3.0 (x64)
Data version: 20170320 DS267.7
www.Ross-Tech.com
VIN: 3VWSP69M22M119405   License Plate: 
Mileage: 329050km-204462mi   Repair Order: 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chassis Type: 9M (9M - VW Jetta IV (1998 > 2014))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57
75 76
VIN: 3VWSP69M22M119405   Mileage: 329050km-204462miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine        Labels: 038-906-012-AGR.lbl
Part No: 038 906 012 FD
Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G500AG  4102  
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 00000  
VCID: 57BD5F65B5AD65F9F8-4B02
3VWSP69M22M119405     VWZ7Z0A4171075
2 Faults Found:
17970 - Quantity Adjuster (N146) 
P1562 - 35-10 - Upper Limit Reached - Intermittent
17656 - Start of Injection Timing Regulation 
P1248 - 35-10 - Control Deviation - Intermittent
Readiness: 1 2 0 0 0 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans        Labels: 01M-927-733.lbl
Part No: 01M 927 733 KT
Component: AG4 Getriebe 01M    4995  
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 00000  
VCID: 0C1770093CEB562185-095C
2 Faults Found:
00281 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (G68) 
03-00 - No Signal
00652 - Gear Monitoring 
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes        Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ABS.lbl
Part No: 1C0 907 379 J
Component: ABS FRONT MK60      0103  
Coding: 0004097
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 3169C1FDAB895BC956-5124
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags        Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
Part No: 1C0 909 605 F
Component: 04 AIRBAG VW61 0202 0001  
Coding: 12340
Shop #: WSC 00066  
VCID: 275D2FA5C54D157988-5106
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments        Labels: 1J0-920-xx5-17.lbl
Part No: 1J0 920 906 M
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V58  
Coding: 07232
Shop #: WSC 27609  
VCID: 326BCEF1FE8F60D12F-5106
3VWSP69M22M119405     VWZ7Z0A4171075
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway        Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901 
Component: Gateway K<->CAN    0001  
Coding: 00006
Shop #: WSC 07200  
VCID: 70EF04F9300312C119-5106
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv.        Labels: 1C0-959-799.lbl
Part No: 1C0 959 799 C
Component: 1H Komfortger·t HLO 0003  
Coding: 00258
Shop #: WSC 00066  
VCID: 377DFFE515ED85F918-4B02
Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1C1959801A
Component: 1H Tırsteuer.FS KLO 0004  
Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1C1959802A
Component: 1H Tırsteuer.BF KLO 0004  
Subsystem 3 - Part No: 1C0959811A
Component: 1H Tırsteuer.HL KLO 0004  
Subsystem 4 - Part No: 1C0959812A
Component: 1H Tırsteuer.HR KLO 0004  
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio        Labels: 3B7-035-1xx-56.lbl
Part No: 3B7 035 180 
Component:    Radio NP2        0005  
Coding: 00031
Shop #: WSC 00000  
VCID: 5DB14D4DD7918FA9A2-5106
No fault code found.
End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 05:17)--------------------------

I had pressure washed the engine bay after I had done all the recent work. The EGR valve had been blowing oil all over the valve cover and down the backside of the engine. I wanted to get it clean and make sure I had no leaks. The car cranked and ran fine after the pressure wash. Dad had put 2k miles on the car since I pressure washed the car. But since I was now having new issues and it had not been but a couple weeks, I just wanted to make sure there was no water or corrosion in any of the clips/harness. So I unplugged the G38, the G68, the G22, coolant temp sensor, some other connectors... I found no water or corrosion. I live in Alabama so I don't get any corrosion or salt problems. Things stay in pretty good shape here in general. Cleared the codes once again, took it for a ride, wouldn't shift into overdrive, seemed like the car was stuck in 2nd or 3rd maybe. Read the codes:

Code:

Tuesday,25,April,2017,20:01:00:40961
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 8.1 x64
VCDS Version: 17.1.3.0 (x64)
Data version: 20170320 DS267.7
www.Ross-Tech.com
VIN: 3VWSP69M22M119405   License Plate: 
Mileage: 329050km-204462mi   Repair Order: 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chassis Type: 9M (9M - VW Jetta IV (1998 > 2014))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57
75 76
VIN: 3VWSP69M22M119405   Mileage: 329050km-204462miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine        Labels: 038-906-012-AGR.lbl
Part No: 038 906 012 FD
Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G500AG  4102  
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 00000  
VCID: 57BD5F65B5AD65F9F8-4B02
3VWSP69M22M119405     VWZ7Z0A4171075
1 Fault Found:
17970 - Quantity Adjuster (N146) 
P1562 - 35-10 - Upper Limit Reached - Intermittent
Readiness: 1 1 1 0 1 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans        Labels: 01M-927-733.lbl
Part No: 01M 927 733 KT
Component: AG4 Getriebe 01M    4995  
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 00000  
VCID: 0C1770093CEB562185-095C
2 Faults Found:
00281 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (G68) 
03-00 - No Signal
00297 - Gearbox Speed Sensor (G38) 
03-00 - No Signal
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes        Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ABS.lbl
Part No: 1C0 907 379 J
Component: ABS FRONT MK60      0103  
Coding: 0004097
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 3169C1FDAB895BC956-5124
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags        Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
Part No: 1C0 909 605 F
Component: 04 AIRBAG VW61 0202 0001  
Coding: 12340
Shop #: WSC 00066  
VCID: 275D2FA5C54D157988-5106
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments        Labels: 1J0-920-xx5-17.lbl
Part No: 1J0 920 906 M
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V58  
Coding: 07232
Shop #: WSC 27609  
VCID: 326BCEF1FE8F60D12F-5106
3VWSP69M22M119405     VWZ7Z0A4171075
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway        Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901 
Component: Gateway K<->CAN    0001  
Coding: 00006
Shop #: WSC 07200  
VCID: 70EF04F9300312C119-5106
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv.        Labels: 1C0-959-799.lbl
Part No: 1C0 959 799 C
Component: 1H Komfortger·t HLO 0003  
Coding: 00258
Shop #: WSC 00066  
VCID: 377DFFE515ED85F918-4B02
Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1C1959801A
Component: 1H Tırsteuer.FS KLO 0004  
Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1C1959802A
Component: 1H Tırsteuer.BF KLO 0004  
Subsystem 3 - Part No: 1C0959811A
Component: 1H Tırsteuer.HL KLO 0004  
Subsystem 4 - Part No: 1C0959812A
Component: 1H Tırsteuer.HR KLO 0004  
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio        Labels: 3B7-035-1xx-56.lbl
Part No: 3B7 035 180 
Component:    Radio NP2        0005  
Coding: 00031
Shop #: WSC 00000  
VCID: 5DB14D4DD7918FA9A2-5106
No fault code found.
End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 05:19)--------------------------

G38 decided to join the party. Did lots of research, saw where some year models had a bad TCM harness and there was an overlay for that. Saw where replacing the G68 fixed all issues for some folks. Saw where it was a new TCM/J217 for some folks. Saw where it was internal issues such as valve body issues for some folks. Seems like the issue has been a ton of different problems for different folks. I was gifted a ALH manual/work flow. I checked the G38 and G68 to TCM pin wires for continuity/resistance, opens or shorts. All those wires checked out good and would carry a load. So per the ALH manual, I didn't find any bad wires or signs of corrosion. I did notice the ECU has electrical grease on its connector, but the TCM/J217 is bone dry for some reason, but no corrosion on the TCM/J217 pins or the harness connector that plugs into it.
I replaced both the G38 & G68 sensors, no change, same fault codes. They are hard codes that come back instantly. Per the ALH manual/work flow, the next thing in line appears to be change the TCM/J217. Unfortunately, it doesn't give a way to test it nor do I now how to go about testing the TCM/J217.
Before I fork out money on a new or used TCM/J217, I wanted to see if I was on the right path. I feel like I'm throwing parts at it hoping to fix the problem. I'd rather diagnose the problem and the replace the needed part if possible.
All help appreciated!

lovemybug · May 7, 2017

How old is your battery? When I still had an 01M in my car, it was doing something similar to yours shortly before my battery took a dump. It was about eight years old at that time. After I replaced the battery, I never had any more problems with the transmission until I had it swapped. If not the battery, you may want to look at the alternator. Basically, grab a voltmeter and check your charging system. If it's not putting out enough power, your sensors and controllers might start acting up.

CotJocky · May 7, 2017

The battery is about 3-4 years old. It is the "top of the line" model sold from Advanced Auto Parts. The car starts strong and without issue. I can't say I've checked in VCDS to see what the voltage output is, but I've not had anything happen to make me doubt the charging system or the battery.

lovemybug · May 7, 2017

Just because you haven't had anything happen doesn't mean that nothing is wrong. It doesn't hurt to check it.

It's entirely possible that the TCM is at fault. I'm not sure how to test for that, either. It also looks like you're getting a code or two from your fuel pump. Whether the two are related, I don't know.

I suggested checking your battery and charging system because of the multiple codes that seem related to a faulty electrical system.

CotJocky · May 7, 2017

I see what you are saying, from the very first auto scan. I'm not saying that there is no possible way there is anything wrong with the battery or charging system. I'm just saying due to the way it cranks, I've not had any reason to suspect it. Only doing a load test on the battery or checking the alternator output will say for 100%. I don't know why it had the power errors or the immobilizer error. I can say they have not came back, but the car hasn't been driven a lot since the shifting problems started either.

The quantity adjuster code from the injection pump has been there for a long time. It is a hard fault. Its had that fault code for 1-2 years. I personally believe the quantity adjuster has metal particles and trash inside of it that is messing it up. Unfortunately you have to clip or unsolder some connections to be able to disassemble it and clean it, then resolder them once done. I'm not looking forward to doing that. The car still runs and starts fine. It just makes for a crappy idle. I can pop the top off the pump, move the QA back and forth several times and the car will idle smoothly for awhile before going back to idling like crap again. Paying $1k for a pump rebuild when it runs fine just seems like a waste of money to my dad. He'll live with the crappy idle.

CoolAirVw · May 8, 2017

watch the measuring block in vagcom that relates to the g68. I would assume there is no reading there.

next step would be to use an oscilliscope at the trans computer or swap out the trans computer. I have used one here for you to try if you want. Contact me at coolairvw@aol.com for details.

CotJocky · May 8, 2017

CoolAirVw said:
watch the measuring block in vagcom that relates to the g68. I would assume there is no reading there.
next step would be to use an oscilliscope at the trans computer or swap out the trans computer. I have used one here for you to try if you want. Contact me at coolairvw@aol.com for details.

Ok, gonna post here and contact you at the email you gave me.

I put the car on jack stands, cranked it and put it in gear with VCDS running. I checked under Trans and groups 2-5 and found that the speed sensor is putting out about 0.10v at idle and I think the max I saw was 1.2v.

Keep in mind both the G68 and G38 are brand new OE parts. Neither of the old sensors looked bad, had trash on the ends or were broken. There were no breaks in the wire sheathing or connector of the G68. No corrosion was noted in either connector.

Pic of old and new sensors:

I have already checked the integrity of the wires between the TCM and the G38 & G68. I disconnected the G68 & G38 and disconnected the harness from the TCM. I then checked continuity on the particular wires per the ALH manual I have. All wires ohm'd out to 0.03 or less. All wires could carry a load that would burn a 55 watt bulb. So I don't think there is a wire issue. I know there was a TSB on the 99 model, but per that TSB, the wiring was "improved" after a certain area in the 99 year model. My car is a 2002 and long after that "improvement".

As you can see in the video, the speedometer works and it displays the mph, but when looking in VCDS, it shows 0.0 km/hr.

LoveMyBug got me thinking... I checked the voltage in VCDS and it shows the car to be charging at 13.3v at idle. The car has no issues starting. Starts strong and easy with no drag, cold or hot, winter or summer.

I had already checked the fuse panel in the car. Any fuse leg that had power on one side, had power on the other. And I remembered I had not checked the fuse panel on top of the battery.

The most inboard wire, the panel is starting to melt, but the wire still has continuity and will light a 55 watt bulb.

Video of battery top fuse panel:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rA8Cnii4H0M

I don't think that would effect my TCM or the G38 & G68 codes I'm getting, but that fuse panel definitely needs replaced. I will be ordering one today!

What do you think? Wiggling it around has no effect on the G38 or G68 codes. They are both hard faults that will not erase.

CoolAirVw · May 8, 2017

CotJocky said:
I checked under Trans and groups 2-5 and found that the speed sensor is putting out about 0.10v at idle and I think the max I saw was 1.2v. .

That is incorrect voltage and of course it should show a KM reading.

Seems like you've done a fairly good job of testing the wiring, but you cant rule out a defective g68, so you'll need an ocsilliscope to do so or else try a Tcm. I have some TCm's if you need one.

CotJocky · May 8, 2017

CoolAirVw said:
That is incorrect voltage and of course it should show a KM reading.

Seems like you've done a fairly good job of testing the wiring, but you cant rule out a defective g68, so you'll need an ocsilliscope to do so or else try a Tcm. I have some TCm's if you need one.

No sir, I do not have a scope, but might could borrow one if it is a fairly straight forward test?

I sent you an email.

I need to pull the wipers and cowl cover back off and see what the part number is on my TCM. I'll email you the part number of my TCM and we can see if you have one.

CotJocky · May 8, 2017

Pulled the TCM. My TCM is: 01M 927 733 KT

I also emailed you about it.

Saw your reply on my youtube video. Replied.

CotJocky · May 8, 2017

I had also been talking about this car with Thomas. He stated he would check for the G68 signal through the wiring to the TCM before condemning the TCM. Being I don't own a scope, this was the last thing I could think of to do to condemn the TCM.

Here's a short video of that test:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6-MKtOsFk4

You can't really hear me at the end after the car is cranked and put into drive. I just told my brother to run the car up to around 40 mph to see resistance change from the G68 on the meter which is show in the video. After the video was over, I had my brother watch the meter and I ran the car up to 60 mph. The resistance got up to around 1.2-1.3.

CotJocky · May 9, 2017

Spoke with CoolAirVW over email. He is gonna ship me out a used TCM.

I would still love to know about that scope testing!

CoolAirVw · May 9, 2017

CotJocky said:
No sir, I do not have a scope, but might could borrow one if it is a fairly straight forward test?

borrow one and play with it. Might learn something. FYI... some people have trouble getting a pattern on a scope if they are not familiar with it. Most people certainly wouldn't know how to interpret what they are seeing if they don't use it regularly. But if there is a good waveform then you know.

Have you ever heard the term "resistance is futile"? (star trek borg reference I believe) The check you doing with resistance, in operation is futile.

Those speed sensors are permanent magnet (PM) generators, That means the sensor makes a voltage, just like a generator. Oscilloscope test sees the voltage output of that sensor. I would post a known good scope pattern but I recently had a hard drive fail and lost all my patterns.

The "voltage" measuring block on vagcom should be 2.5v. That is a "reference" voltage that the voltage output of the sensor "rides on". The TCM puts that voltage there on one side of the sensor.

I guess one check would be to plug the TCM back in, turn the key on, and back probe the two wires and see if there is 2.5v on one. If not maybe the TCM has failed and isn't putting the reference voltage on it. That would just be one way the TCM could fail. It could also fail by not being able to "see" the voltage reading. (dozens of other ways also).

CotJocky · May 9, 2017

CoolAirVw said:
borrow one and play with it. Might learn something. FYI... some people have trouble getting a pattern on a scope if they are not familiar with it. Most people certainly wouldn't know how to interpret what they are seeing if they don't use it regularly. But if there is a good waveform then you know.

Have you ever heard the term "resistance is futile"? (star trek borg reference I believe) The check you doing with resistance, in operation is futile.

Those speed sensors are permanent magnet (PM) generators, That means the sensor makes a voltage, just like a generator. Oscilloscope test sees the voltage output of that sensor. I would post a known good scope pattern but I recently had a hard drive fail and lost all my patterns.

The "voltage" measuring block on vagcom should be 2.5v. That is a "reference" voltage that the voltage output of the sensor "rides on". The TCM puts that voltage there on one side of the sensor.

I guess one check would be to plug the TCM back in, turn the key on, and back probe the two wires and see if there is 2.5v on one. If not maybe the TCM has failed and isn't putting the reference voltage on it. That would just be one way the TCM could fail. It could also fail by not being able to "see" the voltage reading. (dozens of other ways also).

Sorry to hear you had a hard drive failure. When you lose valuable work, it always sucks! :-(

I've watched some ScannerDanner stuff, which by no means makes me a scope master, but I gained some good knowledge and have a starting point to play with a scope.

I did the resistance check because the ALH manual I have told me to check resistance. Unfortunately, the manual isn't a very good diagnostic tool. Basically when it came to the G68 it had me check wire integrity and ohm it out. If the wiring passes, then replace the sensor. If the sensor doesn't fix it, replace the TCM, if TCM doesn't fix it, replace ECM. Seems mostly a recipe to throw parts at a car until you find a fix.

I went back an did a check on the car for DC voltage.

TCM, G68, G38 plugged in. Car on jack stands, engine running and car in drive. Speedo states around 20 mph.

TCM 65, 20 & 43 back probed. G68 1, 2 & 3 back probed. Meter set to DC volts.
Reading between TCM 65 & 20, nada.
Reading between TCM 65 & 43 80-90 mV
Reading between TCM 20 & 43 80-90 mV

TCM 66 & 21 back probed. G38 1 & 2 back probed. Meter set to DC volts.
Reading between G68 1 & 2, nada.
Reading between G68 1 & 3 80-90 mV
Reading between G68 2 & 3 80-90 mV

Nothing close to 1 volt much less 2.5V

Reading between TCM 66 & 21 -0.2-1.2mV
Reading between G38 1 & 2 -0.2-1.2mV

Granted, this isn't a scope and as you stated, and the TCM can fail many different ways. But I'm not getting the voltage I should see for sure if I did the testing correctly that time.

When looking at the voltage in VCDS ECM - Group 2, "Vehicle Speed Sensor Voltage" sits at about 0.10 at idle and gets up to about 0.7 volts max. VCDS sees the speed as 0.0 km/hr.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBeRaR4mXnw&t=1s

So if I'm not getting 2.5v with a DVOM, is there any point in borrowing a scope to check this TCM?

CoolAirVw · May 10, 2017

fyi I'm not confirming your pin locations are correct.

I'm not even looking at your voltage readings because I think its futile, other than looking for the 2.5 volts. Get a scope on it or try the TCM I sent you.

CotJocky · May 13, 2017

TCM arrived.

With the old TCM, less than 1 volt on G68, Speed Sensor showing 0.0km/hr no matter how fast the car is going.

Plugged in the new TCM, success! Switch powered on, G68 Pins 1 & 3, 2 & 3 showing 2.56v. VCDS showing 2.48v. Car cranked, in drive, Speed Sensor shows correct km/hr depending on how fast the car is going.

I might be wrong as I am not the one that drives this car daily, but the up shift and down shift seems to be a little different now. But the car does gear down as it should, it does shift out fine and it does go into overdrive.

I am proud to say the car is fixed!

For those that are having the same problem I had, here are a couple videos that might be helpful:

Here is a video of how the car should look in VCDS with a good TCM: ( I decided to create a new Youtube channel just for my car/diagnostic stuff)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpLUVMohuX4

Here is a video of how the car is with the bad TCM to show the comparison:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-Qf9tczjP8

So in a nutshell, if you don't have access to VCDS, if you replaced the G68 and G38 and it did not resolve your 00281 & 00297 hard faults and you find your wiring to be good, if the DVOM is not showing you 2.5v between G68 pins 1 & 3 and 2 & 3, (G68 back probed and ignition switch on) I'd say there is a good chance your TCM is bad.

Correct me if I'm wrong @CoolAirVW

CoolAirVw · May 15, 2017

Excellent job! I'm glad the TCM fixed it. This was the first one I've seen that the reference voltage was missing. Did you happen to take the old TCM apart and see look at the transistors, integrated circuits, capacitors, resistors and circuit board to see if there was any burned bits?

Has there been any jump starts recently? Or battery charging? accidentally reversing positive and negative clamps even for a moment can cause TCM (or worse ECU) fail.

CoolAirVw · May 15, 2017

This is the best 01m thread for years. Excellent structured diagnostic approach, logical thinking. I edited 01m part 2 (link below) that relates to 01m speed sensors to refer to the info here. Readers of this thread should rate it 5 stars (rating system is immediatly above the 1st post)

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=248847&highlight=01m

CotJocky · May 18, 2017

CoolAirVw said:
Excellent job! I'm glad the TCM fixed it. This was the first one I've seen that the reference voltage was missing. Did you happen to take the old TCM apart and see look at the transistors, integrated circuits, capacitors, resistors and circuit board to see if there was any burned bits?

Has there been any jump starts recently? Or battery charging? accidentally reversing positive and negative clamps even for a moment can cause TCM (or worse ECU) fail.

No, I have not taken the TCM apart, but I had intended to. I will try to do that in the next couple days, take some pics and post them up. I could be wrong, but I'm figuring the "magic smoke" may have leaked out, but the smell of that magic smoke is probably still inside! lol...

I asked my dad more than once, but he swore he had not been jumped off nor had he jumped anyone off in many, many months. If he had, he would have just told me.

I will mention again that the alternator wire on the battery top fuse panel was starting to melt. I replaced that fuse panel yesterday. I'll keep a close eye on it for a bit to make sure that one doesn't start to melt.

CoolAirVw said:
This is the best 01m thread for years. Excellent structured diagnostic approach, logical thinking. I edited 01m part 2 (link below) that relates to 01m speed sensors to refer to the info here. Readers of this thread should rate it 5 stars (rating system is immediatly above the 1st post)

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=248847&highlight=01m

Thank you for the compliment and the help! I'm grateful for the help and the new to me TCM!

CoolAirVw · May 19, 2017

Did you replace the alt cable? If not your gonna burn up the new fuse box. start the car and put you finger on the cable where it meets the box and see if it is getting warm. I've seen them where they were...

1. Warm to the touch
2. Hot and uncomfortable to touch.
3. Scalding hot and burn you immediately when you touch.

Run it for a while then touch it and see.

CotJocky · May 22, 2017

CoolAirVw said:
Did you replace the alt cable? If not your gonna burn up the new fuse box. start the car and put you finger on the cable where it meets the box and see if it is getting warm. I've seen them where they were...

1. Warm to the touch
2. Hot and uncomfortable to touch.
3. Scalding hot and burn you immediately when you touch.

Run it for a while then touch it and see.

Nope, didn't replace the cable. It was $90+ dollars. Dad balked on the purchase. I will run it and check the temp. If it is hot and I can tell dad that it will for sure burn up the new fuse panel, I can probably get him to pony up the money. He's my dad, I love him, but he is a cheap old bastard!

CotJocky · May 22, 2017

CoolAirVw said:
Did you replace the alt cable? If not your gonna burn up the new fuse box. start the car and put you finger on the cable where it meets the box and see if it is getting warm. I've seen them where they were...

1. Warm to the touch
2. Hot and uncomfortable to touch.
3. Scalding hot and burn you immediately when you touch.

Run it for a while then touch it and see.

Ok, checked the Alternator wire, it is between #2 & #3. So definitely a lot of resistance causing heat which melted the old fuse panel. Showed this to my dad, let him burn his widdle finger on it and was able to sell him on getting a new wire. He realized he was just gonna pay another $40 for another fusel panel and saw the value in the new Alternator wire.

I had forgotten to take apart the old TCM and look at it so I went ahead and did that tonight.

No burned smell on the board or inside the box. No obvious burnt traces or corrosion on the board. No water, no dirt, nada. Everything looks nice and clean from what I can see. So I have no idea why it decided to give up the ghost.

Pics:

Wankel7 · Apr 29, 2022

Thanks for the fantastic troubleshooting. Fighting the same issue.

I replaced the G68 and the car shifted great for about 25 miles. Then it came back. Hooking up the VCDS and reading the measuring blocks shows the speed fine....then it goes to zero.

It seems intermittent.

So, maybe wiring?

Prairieview · May 1, 2022

I, personally, would attach ross-tech and take the trans out of "adaptive" mode. Set it to the (I think it is called) "economy" mode.

I also changed the G38. My trans is still doing it's job at 238k miles.

CoolAirVw · May 1, 2022

maybe wiring, did you get a g68 code? Did you replace the G68 or one of the other sensors? Click on the pic at the bottom of the page at the following link. what group and field are you looking at with vagcom?

O1M FAQ | Kansas City TDI

Wankel7 said:
I replaced the G68 and the car shifted great for about 25 miles. Then it came back. Hooking up the VCDS and reading the measuring blocks shows the speed fine....then it goes to zero. It seems intermittent. So, maybe wiring?

2002 VW Jetta TDI 01M No Shift G38 G68 Codes

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