gutts
Veteran Member
Just scroll on by ....
We are all the same side here guys
Slime in fuel system
- Thread starter gutts
- Start date
We are all the same side here guys
flee
Veteran Member
Decades of experience by many millions makes a stronger case than the dogma of one.
The only reason to use a biocide in a TDI is when what the OP described occurs.
With microbes throughout his fuel system, there is no way to clean it completely.
It is a treatment to prevent re-infection of the fuel by the fungus and spores that
remain in the nooks and crannies.
Much the same as a course of antibiotics is given after an exposure to bacteria.
Then again, there will always be someone who will say you shouldn't do that either.
The only reason to use a biocide in a TDI is when what the OP described occurs.
With microbes throughout his fuel system, there is no way to clean it completely.
It is a treatment to prevent re-infection of the fuel by the fungus and spores that
remain in the nooks and crannies.
Much the same as a course of antibiotics is given after an exposure to bacteria.
Then again, there will always be someone who will say you shouldn't do that either.
gutts
Veteran Member
It lives and runs much better
I am so glad I received an emissions test notice the other day . If not I may of just ignored the cel altogether.
I have an 2002 with many mods . When I drove this 99 “UTE “ I just figured “ahh so this what 90 screaming horse power feel like” .
I am so glad I received an emissions test notice the other day . If not I may of just ignored the cel altogether.
I have an 2002 with many mods . When I drove this 99 “UTE “ I just figured “ahh so this what 90 screaming horse power feel like” .
Genesis
Top Post Dawg
Flee, again, no water no microbes. It's that simple. They grow at the water/fuel interface. Get the water physically out of the tank if it's in there. If you are getting enough in there to be a problem (beyond what the vapor pressure that can dissolve in the fuel) then it's either going in via the sender seal (in which case fuel is probably leaking out too!) or down the fill pipe. Most of the time it's coming straight out of the nozzle at the filling station. Biobor will kill the existing microbes but will do nothing for the water (in fact it is miscible with water and can drop out and form solids, which is bad), and as soon as you stop using it the microbes will come back. Continual use increases injector and IP wear as the stuff is corrosive. It's your engine; do what you want. Here's the EPA's reg on the stuff -- it specifically states that it is a corrosive. https://www3.epa.gov/pesticides/chem_search/ppls/065217-00001-20140508.pdf
Incidentally Biobor is not approved for on-road vehicle use.....
Power Service (both white and gray bottle) are neither emulsifiers or demulsifiers. White-bottle has a small emulsification side effect in its chemistry as a result of its cloud-point depression functionality, but in exchange for that you give up some of the lubricity addition that gray has. So unless you have reason to believe you have fuel that is inappropriate for the temperature you're at (e.g. you fill in Tennessee and drive to Michigan in the middle of the winter, and still have the Tennessee fuel in the tank, then shut down overnight where it goes materially below freezing) white isn't the better choice.
Neither is a moisture-in-fuel treatment -- so says the manufacturer (not my opinion, their facts.)
I've never had trouble with this in an on-the-road environment. I *have* had trouble with it in a marine environment and took measures to neutralize the risk as a result. But there are occasionally reports of people getting a load of bad fuel from a station, so if you want to protect against that there are very solid (and not very expensive) means to do it, you just need to find the place to mount the additional filter head to run in front of the factory filter.
Incidentally Biobor is not approved for on-road vehicle use.....
Power Service (both white and gray bottle) are neither emulsifiers or demulsifiers. White-bottle has a small emulsification side effect in its chemistry as a result of its cloud-point depression functionality, but in exchange for that you give up some of the lubricity addition that gray has. So unless you have reason to believe you have fuel that is inappropriate for the temperature you're at (e.g. you fill in Tennessee and drive to Michigan in the middle of the winter, and still have the Tennessee fuel in the tank, then shut down overnight where it goes materially below freezing) white isn't the better choice.
Neither is a moisture-in-fuel treatment -- so says the manufacturer (not my opinion, their facts.)
I've never had trouble with this in an on-the-road environment. I *have* had trouble with it in a marine environment and took measures to neutralize the risk as a result. But there are occasionally reports of people getting a load of bad fuel from a station, so if you want to protect against that there are very solid (and not very expensive) means to do it, you just need to find the place to mount the additional filter head to run in front of the factory filter.
MichaelB
Veteran Member
Great Advice