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VW B5 Passat TDIs This is a general discussion about B5 Passat(>98 (2004-2005 in North America)). Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old March 10th, 2013, 06:57   #31
vwztips
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I find it easier to let the fuse box hang down.
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Old March 10th, 2013, 10:53   #32
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Or push the pin in from the other side. It just clears the HVAC.
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Old March 10th, 2013, 17:35   #33
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OK, some more pics of the pilot bearing setup, hope this helps others.

ARL crank fitted into BHW block, no issues. I have BSM delete so that made it easier. Didn't take the head off, just dropped the pan and carefully left the rods in place. New main and rod bolts. Bearings looked fine, and the ARL crank mic'd identical diameters to the BHW.

Pilot bearing installed in ARL crank, recessed 1mm below face (per Bentley), with writing to outside/visible (ie seal is outermost).


Then gearbox fitted with no flywheel/clutch, to allow viewing of bearing


Pilot bearing engagement, with 5.5mm spacer and ARL crank


Then input shaft viewed from same angle for comparison


End result, I don't think you could get away with the BHW crank and the 5.5mm spacer (which is required for the 240mm DMF).
If you visualize the shorter BHW crank, and then the ID chamfer which forces you to recess the pilot bearing, I cannot see how you could get a lot of engagement, if any.

Final shot of 240mm LUK DMF fitted, with SRE PP and disc.
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Last edited by CharlieT; March 10th, 2013 at 17:37.
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Old March 10th, 2013, 17:57   #34
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Did you measure the length of the input shaft's engagement?
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Old March 11th, 2013, 04:05   #35
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So with the 6sp, to use the dmf, the crank change looks necessary for enough pilot shaft to engage bearing surface. Why wouldn't a oilite bronze custom bearing work as well in a BHW crank?
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Old March 11th, 2013, 10:41   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thundershorts View Post
Why wouldn't a oilite bronze custom bearing work as well in a BHW crank?
No reason why not, it would be a simple solution. I don't have ready access to a lathe here, but I can think of a few vendors that could knock something out and make it available for swaps.
It would have more friction than the needle roller bearing, especially once it is full of clutch dust. It would need to be tested to ensure that this additional drag on the input shaft with clutch pressed does not hinder synchro engagement, I suspect it might.
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Old March 11th, 2013, 14:07   #37
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I doubt if clutch dust would be a problem because the centrifical force generally slings it into the bellhousing, not the center. oilite works quite well in other apps so it should be as good as the needle bearings, which have been known in other apps to fail and gall input shafts. anyway with some copper based grease on it, it ought to work fine. Charlie, I hope you've got the vibration issue resolved finally.
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Old March 12th, 2013, 05:04   #38
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A lathe is an useful tool in any shop. even a small hf 500 buck one for doing thing like bushings.

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Old March 17th, 2013, 20:10   #39
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Charlie - thanks for all the details. I will be having a closer look when I get ahold of a new clutch.

Update: Fixed the clutch switch wiring today. I used a 2 pin switch from a Jetta, and decided not to worry about the start interlock. It annoys me anyway.

1) Remove ECU from box at wiper cowl -drivers side. (5 x 8mm bolts)
2) Remove ECU and unplug harness.
3) Remove pin 59 from the larger connector. It is a grey wire.

Remove cover from harness - cut tie strap, and release locking tab then slide.



Remove purple locking tab from side of the connector



Release pin 59 (my terminal tools were not small enough - so I used a flatted paper clip. Worked fine. ) and re-insert into pin 43.



4) Inside the car - cut the kickdown wire from pin 1 (again grey wire) at the pedal harness. Splice one end of the clutch switch harness to here.
5) Splice the other terminal on the switch to the RED/WHITE white on the brake harness switch.

The ECU sees a signal with +12 volts is applied through the switch. With proper manual tune/programming the cruise will not function unless the ECU sees a signal here. You can verify your work through vag-com measuring blocks.

Looks like this mod is here to stay (clutch interlock by-pass):

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Last edited by Uberhare; March 3rd, 2014 at 16:47.
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Old March 17th, 2013, 20:24   #40
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If the clutch switch doesn't engage at the correct point - it is adjustable. Just push it in or pull it out. You'll feel it click as you do it.



One last note - if you need really good tape that resembles factory use 3M Friction tape. I buy it from Home Depot in the electrical department.



Plus as a bonus it's made in Canada and supports my local economy!
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Old March 18th, 2013, 05:24   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlieT View Post
Without a 5.5mm spacer between the block and the trans, it seems you can make it work, several people have.
You MAY also be able to make it work with a spacer, you just need to be REALLY careful how deep you install the pilot bearing and double check the engagement length.
My understanding is that the 012 and 01Es really do not like having the input shaft supported properly by the pilot bearing. Someone on here forgot to install the pilot and found it immediately very hard to shift, especially 1st.

The crank option is a whole lot of work, but not expensive if you do your own labor. Used ARL cranks go for $40-80 in UK + shipping.

I have not got to the bottom of why my 6sp swap is resonating so badly. I am doing some more work on it this week, and will post once I find something conclusive. I need hard facts before I post.
Its really not that big of a deal top swap cranks when you have the transmission out already. Plus if you are doing the BSM and timing belt, you are pretty much 90% of the way there.
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Old May 23rd, 2013, 17:43   #42
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My 40km drive to work this morning:



No hypermiling, just 10K over the limit cruising in traffic. I'm averaging 5.4 right now in the warmer weather. 70% hwy.
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Old May 30th, 2013, 16:35   #43
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So which ones will? I have been searching and all the ones I see are for MK IV's. Is this an EU only part? I like the idea of keeping the DMF to keep the NVH down. I have the VR60 clutch in my MK IV Jetta and it is noisy as hell. But at the same time I want one that will hold up to a mild tune. I mostly drive like an old fart, but every now and then I want to punch it and play

Scott
The only USA options are the 240mm from the 2.0 fsi cars but I'm not sure how it will hold up with diesel torque. Using an SMF is not an option as it destroys synchro rings in the 01E.
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Old July 7th, 2013, 13:43   #44
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@Uberhare: Nice conversion, my compliments.

I got the same 6 speed (DQS) from a wrecked 2.5 V6 TDI (150HP) here.

Do you know the ratios, or where I can find them. The 02A, 02J and 02M is not that difficult to find, but these 01E ratios is difficult.

Regards,

Bert
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Old July 16th, 2013, 21:26   #45
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6 speed from 04 Passat TDI PD130.GVS

Final: 31/8 = 3.875
1) 28/8 = 3.5
2) 34/18 = 1.89
3) 32/26 = 1.23
4) 28/30 = .93
5) 27/37 = .73
6) 24/40 = .6

It turns 1950rpm @ 100kph.

Ratios are confirmed via ETKA.
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