Some oil change photos for newbs or the FAQ...

I just completed my 5,000 mile oil change using my new Pela-6000 pump and thought I'd post a few pictures since I really hadn't seen too many when I was looking up a few things. If anyone has a FAQ and wants to grab the pictures, feel free to. I'm not sure how long I'll host them as my ISP limits me to 5Mb and I frequently have to delete files to clear space.

Anyhow, the change couldn't have been easier using the Pela extractor. Going right down the dipstick tube, I got out about 4 liters right away. I let it sit for a while after it started gurgling and recharged the pump and it pulled out about another 100 cc.



After removing the filter, I sucked a bunch more oil out of the filter housing and down each of the orifices and probably got out another 200 cc.

Here's the new filter in place:



Also, remember to change the O-rings on the tip of the oil filter cap stick and on the cap itself. Locations are indicated by the arrows.



All cleaned up! It's nice to do it yourself and know it's done right. A little attention to detail goes a long way...



Here's the pump after it settled down. I took out about 4.25 liters (but I don't recall where the level was when I started). To refill, I used a full gallon of Delvac-1 and couldn't reach the cross-hatches on the dipstick. I had to top it off with the second gallon.

How are your CV boots?

Originally posted by MITBeta:
How are your CV boots?

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<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Who cares? What are you gonna do? Watch them wear out and then put new boots on a worn out CV joint?

I always run mine until they click like crazy and a boot or both boots are completely busted. I then replace the whole joint with a professionally remanufactured CV joint.

I never understood some peoples obsessions with checking the CV joints all the time..

Where can I buy a Pella extractor?

How are your CV boots?

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<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Fine, thanks. Moving on to our next non-sequitur...

I bought mine from overtons.com. Easy online ordering. Came in about 2 days.

I dont disagree often with CAR 54 but checking your boots and replacing the cracked boot after cleaning out the joint first is a heck of a lot cheaper the waiting for the boot to brake and watching the ball bearing roll down the street in front of you( i have seen this) on over 20 years i have only replaced 2 CV boots ( i use a rubber toner 2 times a year) and never had to replace a joint. 4 of the cars went over 200,000 miles. I also plan on starting to use a top sider on oil changes but still plan on cheching the underside of the car 2 time a year. you never know what you might find.

...and can you explain how to drain the water separator using pix like these? I hear that has to be done when the oil is changed too.

This topic should be renamed:
Some oil change photos of how to suck out the oil through the dipstick hole (plus start a philosophical argument).
I commend you on the effort of educating some on the aspects of changing oil. The only pictures that do this are the second and third one. Here is a suggestion that might really help a newbee:
A - Suck out the oil method
B - Use drain plug method

1. Show and describe the necessary tools needed to change the oil (very important)
1B.Raise car (jack or ramps)
2. Show how to take off the top cover
3. Take off the oil filter
4. Show where the o-rings go
5. Install the filter (show which was is up and suck out the oil in the housing if desired)
6. Tighten the filter (give torque value)
7A.Suck out the oil through the dipstick hole
7B.Take off the bottom pan
8B.Take out drain plug
9B. Drain oil
10B.Reinstall drain plug (indicate the washer replacement and torque value)
11B.Reinstall the bottom pan
12. Fill with oil (specify a quantity)
13B.Lower car
14. Explain the procedure for checking the oil and show where the oil level can be on the dipstick)

This would work better for a newbee. Since I don’t have to change my oil for a while, I don’t see this happening on my end. If someone needs an oil change and wants to have it documented then let me know. Two cars would work better, since each method could be performed.

TDIVAD,
Do you get your Delvac and filters locally?

Many thanks for the great pictures and all the info.

Alright you ballbusters, this wasn't meant to be a tutorial on oil-changes. The procedure is well documented here as well as the "philosophical" differences and between topside changes and conventional changes -- it's been done to death. I happened to take a few pictures while changing the oil and thought someone who's done a full blown write up might want to use them to augment their text since I haven't seen much pictorially elsewhere.

But no good deed goes unpunished around here. Some ******* has to chime in and imply that topside changers ignore other maintenance (I don't and I don't recommend anyone else do skip the other things that should be done on an ongoing basis -- not just every 10K miles). Someone else has criticize the post as incomplete and unbalanced to the whiny handwringers who somehow act like their masculinity is threatened by topside changes. Well you can all kiss my dieselass...

Here I come strolling in to report on my first use of the Pela extractor, and you beat me to it! (I also got mine from Overton's).

something to add to your rundown... sucking all that oil through a 1/8"ID straw takes some time. I cleaned my k&n filter in the time it took to extract all the oil. It's not inconvenient, all I'm saying is to not expect it to suck it quickly like a positive-displacement pump would.

One of the better virtues of this system is that the oil is so well contained. personally, I've always hated the walk to the recycle drum (or what-have-you) carefully carrying the sloshing wide pan of oil trying not to get it all over my shirt. I wouldn't hesitate to change the oil wearing a white shirt with this unit.

sidenote... WOW the inside of your oil filter housing is shiny! are they all like that when they're new??

Thanks for the post. We also had a great experience with the Pela 6000. The transluscent container let one know how much oil was sucked out. We got 4.5 liters out total from the dipstick hole and then the oil filter housing.

Further suggestions:

1) Get a measure funnel ($3 at Walmart), to put in just as much oil as you got out. Since the markings on the Pela are in liters, using the funnel helps to avoid any confusion.

2) Unscrew the oil filter cap all the way, and just let it sit there while you're sucking the oil out of the dipstick hole. Once you're done with that, then take the cap off with the old filter on it, and it won't drip oil on your engine.

Nice post TDIVAD.

People come to this site for exactlly what you've done, to get an idea on how it's done. If people here need every single steps, then they shouldn't be doing it in the first place. Common sense applies here.

Credit has to be given where it's due.

Keep it up TDIVAD

TDIVAD

Thanks for the photos and the consideration. Ignore the posts you don't care for. If you don't, you will not last long.

At 10,000 mile oil intervals, I haven't done that many top side changes, but I'd like to chime in that oil temp. is probably critical to a successful experience. Too hot and the vinyl hose collapses and maybe melts the plastic container, and too cold it takes forever. Last time, for me, it took a long time. May I ask if you have a 'system' for warming up the oil prior to your changes? Admittedly, in the summer or in a hot climate, this might not be a factor.

Originally posted by VelvetFoot:
but I'd like to chime in that oil temp. is probably critical to a successful experience. Too hot and the vinyl hose collapses and maybe melts the plastic container, and too cold it takes forever.

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<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yeah, the oil temp is the whole deal as VF notes. I try to get the car fully warmed up and then let it sit, perhaps for an hour, before I begin the suctioning process.

I have done it cold and it probably took two hours but I had anticipated that so it wasn't a big deal. i just went and did some other stuff and returned later to finish up.

Last weekend, I did my first oil change with a suction pump (Pela PL-650), instead of the ol' drainplug method. This was also my first change on a TDI. I didn't get out as much oil as I should have - I'm wondering if I didn't have the suction tube all the way down to the bottom of the oil pan. Pushing on the tube wouldn't get it to go in any further, so perhaps it was getting stuck somewhere? Is there anything that the tube could get hung up on?

The Pela PL-650 comes with two tubes, and I was using the larger diameter one. Does the path get narrow at some point such that the larger tube won't fit all the way down?

Thank you for posting these pictures. They are great for someone who is going to do their own oil change for the first time (me). I'm getting the 6000 from a local Harley Davidson dealer and am looking forward to using it. I did contact Pela about oil temp. because I didn't want to melt it like someone else did. He said as long as you can touch the dipstick and hold it, it's not too hot. Otherwise, let it cool down a bit. Right off the freeway, too hot. Five minute warm up about right. Thanks again for the pictures.

TDIVAD, I am a newbie here and always been wanting to do the oil change by myself. I am still at some where in the region of low 2000 miles, so I still have a few months to go.

I never knew that we could do the whole process without having to jack up the car.

Thanks again for this informative post!

I've changed oil in many cars [still deciding if I should buy now or wait for the '04 Jettas, so learning all I can] using the jack up, crawl under and drain method. In a different discussion someone suggested a Fumoto valve replacing the plug eliminating the 'work': just attaching a tube & opening the value at change time. This seems to be a better way to ensure draining all the old oil and quicker too. Anyone have experience with both the Pella extractor and a Fumoto valve?

b/t/w - love this site. Thanks

Sorry, I'm sure this has ALSO been answered to death, but I wanted to confirm that the way the oil filter is shown in these photos is correct. I've done a few changes on mine and it irked me that the filter package didn't specify and it would fit in just fine both ways. So the screen goes up? I used some (probably defective) logic when I did my changes and decided that the writing on the end of the filter was probably supposed to face up so you could see it in the housing

The writing says "oben top" on it, that should answer your question.

<font color="red"> Another important point -</font> TDIVAD and others take note - <font color="brown"> the filter gets mounted, fully seated, on the filter cap/stick first, NOT inserted into the housing first!

AFTER the filter is mounted the assembly (cap/stick w/mounted filter) is then screwed into the housing</font>

At 10,000 mile oil intervals, I haven't done that many top side changes, but I'd like to chime in that oil temp. is probably critical to a successful experience. Too hot and the vinyl hose collapses and maybe melts the plastic container, and too cold it takes forever. Last time, for me, it took a long time. May I ask if you have a 'system' for warming up the oil prior to your changes? Admittedly, in the summer or in a hot climate, this might not be a factor.

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Guys, what are you talking about? I used Pela pump at fully warmed up engine, and it does not melt, neither does the hose collapse. If you use inferior oil extractors (I've seen a few others that looked "meltable"),it is up to you to 'invent' a new procedure. Otherwise when using Pela (at least the "ball" model) just warm up the engine, switch it off and suck the oil

deuskid I've used both and prefer the extractor method. I haven't used the Fumoto valve on my '00 NB for some time now, I just use my TopSider. ON the wife's '02 Jetta the drain plugg has never been off the car.

One thing I did do was replace the plastic hose that goes into the engine with copper tubbing, to prevent curling of the tubbing in oil pan and collapsing under high vaccum and high temps.

TDIVAD,

Thanks for the tip and the pic's, I just did my first oil change (5K) and I went the knuckle busting way Never again!

I do have a question, wile under the car (donating blood to the Florida mosquitos)looking up at the oil filter assembly, I also noticed a plastic cap at the bottom of this assembly. Should I have removed this bottom cap/cover? It looks like it would take like a 30mm socket.

I noticed some oil at the bottom of the filter assembly that I couldn't get out . After I put the new filter in (don't worry I put the new o-rings) it only took around 4.2 qts to fill. Do you think I'll have any problems by leaving that old oil in there? Next time, I'm pumping that crap out

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

Regards,

Florida newbie

Hi TDIVAD,

Don't laugh please - but I think your pics are great - from a photography point of view. (Another hobby of mine). The one with the pump by the light is especially nice.

If you don't mind me asking - what camera did you use, what film (and film speed) and if at all possible - lol - everyone must be laughing their sox off now - what f-stop and shutter speed or picture program?

Hahahahaha

ok now i'm laughing at myself.

Thanks

<font color="red"> Another important point -</font> TDIVAD and others take note - <font color="brown"> the filter gets mounted, fully seated, on the filter cap/stick first, NOT inserted into the housing first!

AFTER the filter is mounted the assembly (cap/stick w/mounted filter) is then screwed into the housing</font>

Click to expand...

No offense, but says who?

<font color="red"> Another important point -</font> TDIVAD and others take note - <font color="brown"> the filter gets mounted, fully seated, on the filter cap/stick first, NOT inserted into the housing first!

AFTER the filter is mounted the assembly (cap/stick w/mounted filter) is then screwed into the housing</font>

Click to expand...

No offense, but says who?

Click to expand...

I ALWAYS seat the filter in the housing FIRST - then screw the cap down inplace.... doesn't seem right to do it the other way but i've done it both ways . . . and quite a few times in the last 158900 miles! and thats just my car...

<font color="red"> Another important point -</font> TDIVAD and others take note - <font color="brown"> the filter gets mounted, fully seated, on the filter cap/stick first, NOT inserted into the housing first!

AFTER the filter is mounted the assembly (cap/stick w/mounted filter) is then screwed into the housing</font>

Click to expand...

No offense, but says who?

Click to expand...

I ALWAYS seat the filter in the housing FIRST - then screw the cap down inplace.... doesn't seem right to do it the other way but i've done it both ways . . . and quite a few times in the last 158900 miles! and thats just my car...

Click to expand...

Actually, the technical data is silent on this point, so while it probably does not technically matter, seating it first actually makes a lot of sense. First of all you positively know it is seated. Second, when you go to install it it will install as a unit!

Another topic: I am a tad confused by reason for the hot vs cold oil issue. To me the issue is: 1. hot oil has been claimed to hold particles in suspension better than "settled oil" 2. cool enough so you do not suffer burns.

Insofar as the "flow" unless you are changing oil in the dead of real winter with a cold oil, the subject is moot. All you need to do is pour a gal of new delvac1 5w-40 out of the bottle to see HOW WELL IT FLOWS!! The oil in your engine should flow almost EXACTLY the same.