In SERIOUS need of some second opinions.

*****UPDATE POST #78!!



















More and more people are probably starting to recognize me based on my threads over the past 11-12 months. Please be patient with me, I will organize this as best as I can. Thank you in advance to anyone who might be able to help shed some light on this situation: (GURUS whom might be interested in helping, see statement at the bottom)

CAR BACKGROUND:
2001 ALH Jetta
275,000+ Kilometers
Runs on Biodiesel Blend with D2 (variant on temperature) (235,000km on D2, 40,000km on Bio)
NEVER RUN ON WVO!

1st PROBLEM:
-Air is being sucked from the fuel filter (via clear line) into the engine. This is causing low power, jumps in power, long stressful starts (warm and cold), and sometimes full engine stall.
-There used to be a certain level in the tank; when reached, air would begin to slowly appear in the lines. As long as I kept the tank full, and didn't let it linger too far past 1/2 tank, the car wouldn't stall on me.
-When under heavy acceleration/WOT, the problem is much more apparent (obviously, of course).



TECHNICAL QUESTIONS:
1) If there was a problem with the injectors/lines between injectors, COULD AIR BE RETURNED TO THE FUEL FILTER VIA THERMOSTATIC TEE?
2) Do the connections between fuel fittings (send/return blue/black lines) have the potential to leak? I have not seen anything visibly as far as leaks are concerned, but could these fittings suck in air?

WHAT I HAVE DONE/REPLACED:
-Fuel Injection Pump Resealed x2
-Current temporary swap does not leak.
-Fuel Filter 3-5 times
-Thermostatic T (03/09)
-Viton O-Rings (03/09)
-Fuel Sending Unit x 2 (most recent was 09/09)
-Fuel Sending Unit O-Ring (10/09)
-Fuel Line (sending unit ---> under car ---> up into engine bay blue/black) (06/09)
NONE OF THESE COMPLETELY FIXED THE PROBLEM.


2nd PROBLEM: I have a CEL for glow plug circuit (harness, I assume), have changed out 3 of the 4 plugs (the 4th is under the injector line). Also have ABS Sensor on... (skip to WHAT I AM WILLING TO DO)

OTHER VARIOUS PROBLEMS:
-Trunk latch broken, will not lock closed, but will not fly open.
-Small amount of oil consumption every 2,000-3,000 miles --- usually 1/2-1 quart.


WHAT I AM WILLING TO DO: I am somewhat mechanically inclined, but being a 21 year old college student with 2 jobs has occupied enough of my time to where I cannot spend day and night diagnosing these issues.
-I am willing to drive to ANY TDI guru in the Northeast (or within 10 hours of Buffalo, NY) who feels they can help diagnose my problem.
-I am willing to purchase any parts to end this misery.


Thank you to everyone if you made it to this point and have listened to my story. Thanks in advance for any advice. If there is additional information you would like to know, please alert me and I will answer any questions.

lots of recommended wrenches within 10 hours of Buffalo. Closest one is in Waterloo, I think
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=130044

Make sure that none of your fuel lines (including the injector return lines) have splits in them where they fit on their connections. A small split can let enough air in to cause problems.

Yes, I have gone to MetalMan in the past, but I am not sure if he would be too keen on diagnosing this specific problem. I have purchased (almost) all of my parts from him, and he swapped my IP in December 2008 (ironically, the problem was happening at that point as well).

For your 2nd problem, spray DeOxit in the injector harness. I found it at Fry's for $13. This cleared my CEL. Search DeOxit and/or Glow Plugs 101 Ver. 2 inthe "how to" link...

As for the ABS light, what's the code/description that it gives you?

VeeDubTDI said:

Make sure that none of your fuel lines (including the injector return lines) have splits in them where they fit on their connections. A small split can let enough air in to cause problems.

Click to expand...

I have 20/20 vision, and nothing I can see shows signs of cracking.

I pushed the braided line running back to the IP down firm, everything else looked OK.

There are the possibilities of the line coming from the filter ---> IP

Here are a few pictures:

Hmm, I'm not sure what to suggest. There are only a certain number of things that can cause air leaks. When in doubt, systematically check them and eliminate the possibilities.

VeeDubTDI said:

Hmm, I'm not sure what to suggest. There are only a certain number of things that can cause air leaks. When in doubt, systematically check them and eliminate the possibilities.

Click to expand...

I would consider my 11-12 month process quite a system. Haha, everything I did improved the point at which air was pulled, but nothing completely fixed the problem. I have gotten as low as 1/4 of a tank without stalling. I am just above 3/4 of a tank right now and it is pulling good streams of air.

I still can't seem to get the answer to the 1 question I had... Can air be returned to the fuel filter via the Thermostatic Tee? If so, I would buy the blocked off T.

Got Bearings? said:

For your 2nd problem, spray DeOxit in the injector harness. I found it at Fry's for $13. This cleared my CEL. Search DeOxit and/or Glow Plugs 101 Ver. 2 inthe "how to" link...

As for the ABS light, what's the code/description that it gives you?

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, I will try this ASAP.

ABS -- havent scanned it yet, my computer hasn't been running VAG-COM lately, and I havent had a chance to meet up with a local friend with it.

I would replace every fuel line under the hood, starting with the small return lines from the injectors.

I would test for leaks using a mityvac.

Dan

Go see HermTDI in Maine. Take a weekend and make the trip. I'm betting you have multiple problems and you're going to be best off with an expert looking at the whole system.

IndigoBlueWagon said:

Go see HermTDI in Maine. Take a weekend and make the trip. I'm betting you have multiple problems and you're going to be best off with an expert looking at the whole system.

Click to expand...

Is Herm back up and running? I will get in touch with him and try to arrange something.

EDIT: 9 hour trip, wish there was a more direct route from Buffalo ---> Richmond, ME :/

I am also considering Paramedick, MOGolf and a few others within the range. I will certainly call each of them individually to see what they think of the situation.

Steve,don't forget that you pulled the sending unit at Nate's GTG in August and put the IP suction line directly into tank,and the air bubbles diminished significantly-which led us to believe it was sending unit.....I know Herm hates WVO vehicles-how is he on the subject of biodiesel?? Don't forget I still have the cloth fuel line that we can replace sometime....and Steve has tried different return/feed lines from filter to IP with no improvement.

He says in his first post no WVO. I don't think bio is going to have caused any of the issues he has. MoGolf might be closer, great idea. Also Jon Hamilton in Marysville OH. And AFAIK Herm is back up and running.

Just for laughs, because you've tried damn near everything else, try a filter from a '98 Beetle that uses no T. I had one in during the winter before and had no issues. It's cheap and easy to try. ABS sensors are a known issue and easy to replace. VCDS should tell you what the issu is with the ABS, if it's a sensor(s), go for it.

Opinions:

I don't think air is going to get in the system from any fuel line that has pressure on it ..... i.e., fuel going away from the IP as well as that returning from the Injectors.

Seems I recall reading info in a Thread about the fuel "pick-up" system in the fuel tank may crack and allow air to get in the system.

Replace the clamps on the fuel lines at the filter with the small screw type!

follow the line back to the tank , check for leaks .
did yoy check those clip on fuel line connectors on the sending unit.
just run the car with fuel line off the filter into a can of Power service and see if you still get bubbles

I'm about 5.5 hours away... I'd be willing to take a look at it.. I bet it's something simple... as previously stated, there are only a few ways for air to enter the system..

Sorry for not thinking of you Jason, I always assume you're further south. Another good option.

The ABS fault may be as simple as a dirty electrical connection at the wheel sensor(s). I'd try DeOxitizing (is that a word?) the connections before replacing. Careful tho as the plastic can and does get brittle Good luck!

IndigoBlueWagon said:

Sorry for not thinking of you Jason, I always assume you're further south. Another good option.

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That's ok, lol.. he could always try to make the trek to dyno day...

It may not be a real fix, but it may be a solution to install a lift pump.

It sounds to me like the problem is in the tank. If the lines in the pick-up/pump were operating under positive pressure instead of negative, they'd be leaking fuel back into the tank and not air into the lines. On the other hand, perhaps the pressure will at least allow a fuel leak that you can find, outside the tank - instead of an air leak you can't see.

Like I said - this may not be the "right" way to fix it, but it may be a work-around, or may allow you to make a definitive diagnosis.

He does have the screw type hose clamps on the fuel lines at the filter.It is a Canadian car-do they have different parts than U.S. versions? If Steve has any time off during week of the 7th-I might be willing to follow in case he has any problems on the way to a guru....

i'd also check the fuel lines to the tank under the car... they are sturdy but CAN be bent o twisted somewhere (probably near one of the edges) and there it may suck a little air.
I believe the problem is there... you changed EVERYTHING ELSE.

Sorry for the late response everyone, just got home from work a few minutes ago. Lots of good ideas here, and let me respond to them:

IndigoBlueWagon said:

He says in his first post no WVO. I don't think bio is going to have caused any of the issues he has. MoGolf might be closer, great idea. Also Jon Hamilton in Marysville OH. And AFAIK Herm is back up and running.

Click to expand...

Spoke with Herm on the phone for about 15 minutes, and he HATES biodiesel, . But the general consensus is that air CANNOT be returned to the fuel filter, so air must be getting sucked previous to the clear line.

Souzafone said:

Just for laughs, because you've tried damn near everything else, try a filter from a '98 Beetle that uses no T. I had one in during the winter before and had no issues. It's cheap and easy to try. ABS sensors are a known issue and easy to replace. VCDS should tell you what the issu is with the ABS, if it's a sensor(s), go for it.

Click to expand...

I like the idea, ALOT. I am considering purchasing a "block-off" thermostatic tee, along with a VW spec fuel filter. I am strongly considering just starting that entire region from scratch.

AndyBees said:

Opinions:

Seems I recall reading info in a Thread about the fuel "pick-up" system in the fuel tank may crack and allow air to get in the system.

Replace the clamps on the fuel lines at the filter with the small screw type!

Click to expand...

Fuel Sending Unit has been done 2x! I am damn near positive that is not the problem.

Clamps however are a good idea, when I go through to freshen everything up, I will replace all of those connections

TDIJetta99 said:

I'm about 5.5 hours away... I'd be willing to take a look at it.. I bet it's something simple... as previously stated, there are only a few ways for air to enter the system..

Click to expand...

Schwing! I finish the semester on December 11th, so anytime after that I would be willing to set a day aside to make the trip. I could stay with my cousin in Manhattan. Thanks alot for the offer, and if my preliminary attempts don't yield any good results, chances are I will take you up on it.

HopefulFred said:

It sounds to me like the problem is in the tank. If the lines in the pick-up/pump were operating under positive pressure instead of negative, they'd be leaking fuel back into the tank and not air into the lines. On the other hand, perhaps the pressure will at least allow a fuel leak that you can find, outside the tank - instead of an air leak you can't see.

Click to expand...

We have done tests in the tank, and as far as I understand, small cracks in the Thermostatic Tee (amongst all other possibilites), can lead to air in the fuel lines. I definitely like the way you are approaching it, but I have spent hours in the backseat playing around, have replaced everything that is THERE; well, except for the fuel tank itself

tdidieselbobny said:

He does have the screw type hose clamps on the fuel lines at the filter.It is a Canadian car-do they have different parts than U.S. versions? If Steve has any time off during week of the 7th-I might be willing to follow in case he has any problems on the way to a guru....

Click to expand...

I don't have the screw clamps Bob!! I definitely need to get them however! I finish school on the 11th (Friday), and the following week is the beginning of my "relaxation" period -- ha! But I will swing you a PM/call depending on how things go...

I have built a small list of parts in my head while working tonight:

-New VW/Bosch/Mann Fuel Filter (keyword: SPEC, OEM)
-New Thermostatic Tee Valve (with or without blockoff, haven't decided yet, might not be a good idea to get the blockoff, Buffalo gets pretty cold in the depths of winter).
-New Bosch Viton O-Rings -- something that can handle the Biodiesel
-Black lines leading in both directions from the fuel filter.

What could I possibly be missing? The only other thing on the list is another TDI.

mauroper said:

i'd also check the fuel lines to the tank under the car... they are sturdy but CAN be bent o twisted somewhere (probably near one of the edges) and there it may suck a little air.
I believe the problem is there... you changed EVERYTHING ELSE.

Click to expand...

BTW, I did replace those lines, running from the tank, under the car and up into the engine bay. Thank you though

Souzafone said:

Just for laughs, because you've tried damn near everything else, try a filter from a '98 Beetle that uses no T. I had one in during the winter before and had no issues. It's cheap and easy to try. ABS sensors are a known issue and easy to replace. VCDS should tell you what the issu is with the ABS, if it's a sensor(s), go for it.

Click to expand...

Is this the filter?: http://metalmanparts.com/product.sc?productId=185&categoryId=-1

OR

this?:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=478756

The Beck Arnley fuel filter from rockauto.com has all of the connections including that thermostatic T made as a part of the filter housing. Assuming it is made well, it would make sure there is no air leaking into the system.

I would recomend after you change the filter ,stop running any kind of BIO for a while to see if seal shrinkage may be causing this.
I had very similar problems when running BIO . I pulled vacum checks on all fuel lines from the IP back to the tank , and the IP it self.
I only had these problems when running BIO ,NEVER again !

Since I've gone to ULSD no problem since .That's been 1 1/2 years.

As far as the ABS . Have you changed the brake components out lately , if so is it possible the ABS plug wasn't disconnected before the caliper was dropped ? I'm asking this from my experience , I've been there done that.