AHU /1Z oil pan reseal rubber gasket. RTV needed?

Giberish33

Veteran Member
Joined
May 30, 2017
Location
Montreal, Qc
TDI
1997 Jetta TDi 1z
I'm planning on re sealing my oil pan and valve cover. I have a few questions as I can't seem to find definitive answers for the AHU / 1Z more threads about mk4's or above.

1) Does the oil pan need additional rtv along with the new rubber gasket?

2) What is the pattern and torque spec for oil pan bolts (inside to outer corners direction or opposite)?

3) Does the engine need to be lifted at all to get the oil pan off the car?

4) Does the valve cover rubber gasket need any additional rtv and what are its torque specs?

Really appreciate any info you guys are able to answer. I really need to get myself a bentley or haynes manual one of these days. Thanks!
 

jhax

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2012
Location
Golden, CO
TDI
96 Passat B4V, ALH engine out of a 2002 Jetta, some IE Rods and ASV Pistons. Nothing drivable yet though
1. No 2. Snug them all up and do 15ft lb on each bolt opposite the last torqued bolt 3. No 4. No
 

jhax

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2012
Location
Golden, CO
TDI
96 Passat B4V, ALH engine out of a 2002 Jetta, some IE Rods and ASV Pistons. Nothing drivable yet though
5. The two bolts next to the flywheel are a pain.recommend a 1/4" extension with a swivel or a long allen with a ball head.
 

jhax

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2012
Location
Golden, CO
TDI
96 Passat B4V, ALH engine out of a 2002 Jetta, some IE Rods and ASV Pistons. Nothing drivable yet though

Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Relocated from Maine to Dewey, AZ
TDI
Only the B4V left
5. The two bolts next to the flywheel are a pain.recommend a 1/4" extension with a swivel or a long allen with a ball head.
And I would only go to 10 ft-lbs due to them threading into the rear main seal and not the block. I seem to remember they had different torque specs but can’t remember definitively I’ve stripped them out before by trying to get to 15 ft-lbs.
 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
I've always had the feeling at 10ftlbs that there about to strip out. Clean threads. 8ftlbs and call it good.
 

Giberish33

Veteran Member
Joined
May 30, 2017
Location
Montreal, Qc
TDI
1997 Jetta TDi 1z
And I would only go to 10 ft-lbs due to them threading into the rear main seal and not the block. I seem to remember they had different torque specs but can’t remember definitively I’ve stripped them out before by trying to get to 15 ft-lbs.
Well that's good to know. That could quickly become a bad time!
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
I’ve installed helicoils in too many of those seal carriers....

For some reason, I thought the spec was in in/lbs, in the later manuals. I’ll need to check, but I remember buying a new torque wrench for this purpose, or maybe I just wanted one.

-Todd
 

garciapiano

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2018
Location
Southern California
TDI
1997 Jetta TDI (1Z)
All I gotta say is use OEM pan bolts. They are right at the edge of their torque limits at 10 ft-lbs and any weaker bolts tend to snap off the bolt heads when you approach 10 ft-lbs. Ask me how I know....
Be VERY careful with the flywheel end bolts as you are threading into aluminum and it can be pretty easy to cross thread.
A safer spec is definitely 7-8 ft lbs as mentioned above.
 

Giberish33

Veteran Member
Joined
May 30, 2017
Location
Montreal, Qc
TDI
1997 Jetta TDi 1z
All I gotta say is use OEM pan bolts. They are right at the edge of their torque limits at 10 ft-lbs and any weaker bolts tend to snap off the bolt heads when you approach 10 ft-lbs. Ask me how I know....
Be VERY careful with the flywheel end bolts as you are threading into aluminum and it can be pretty easy to cross thread.
A safer spec is definitely 7-8 ft lbs as mentioned above.
Going to pick up a new torque wrench for this specifically. Currently have a beam (needle) style 0-150ft-lbs 3/8 but I don't trust that. Also have a click type 3/8 25-250ft-lbs but again not trying to "wing" it. Great advice in this tread about the danger of even going past 7 or 8ft-lbs.
 
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