Logic would dictate that those without coolant loss aren't losing coolant. Coolant, however does have a smell and the overflow tank is vented. It's entirely possible that warm coolant is being returned to the reservoir with the resulting odor being present. Actual coolant loss will be so minimal as to be unnoticeable. Bear in mind that even an all but undetectable weep from a hose or coupling onto a hot surface will result in a very nice coolant aroma with minimal evidence of a problem.
Significant coolant loss is an entirely different issue. If no evidence of a leak in the engine bay and no evidence of coolant in the cabin, then it might be reasonable to assume a serious problem.
We'll start with a compromised block or head. Perhaps a casting fault. Though unlikely this is a possibility. Then a bad head gasket. Usually there will be contamination evident. In some cases oil or exhaust products will show themselves in the coolant reservoir. In other cases frothy (milky) oil when contaminated with coolant. Both are very bad.
If neither be the case, then two more places to look. You realize that we have a water-cooled Intercooler. A leak in this component will allow coolant to be inducted in the charge air. Remove the lower charge air hose at the Intercooler and check for signs of coolant mixed with the inevitable oil that will always be present. At this stage expect no froth, just coolant and oil with coolant sinking to the bottom and oil floating above.
The other possibility is the EGR cooler. Really just the Intercooler in reverse for all practical purposes. A leak there will allow coolant to enter the induction system at the EGR valve. It can also allow coolant to directly enter the exhaust system. I'd expect to see evidence of raw coolant at the exhaust end of the component when the system is pressurized.
Any shop that cannot detect and diagnose a major coolant issue is one from which you should run away. A pressure test should provide ample evidence of a leak. Neither the Intercooler nor the EGR cooler are all that difficult to check. This especially when pressure is applied. If neither are compromised and nothing else is evident, then it pretty much leaves an internal issue within the engine which will require pulling the head at minimum.
Unfortunately the issue MUST be resolved. Otherwise your chance of a massive failure is about the same as when Titanic kissed the iceberg. The biggest question then and now was/is how long before total disaster, not if.