Crank pulley bolts have gone missing :/

So, as I drove around saturday I lose power steering and the battery light comes on. I also have a cel, which is always on thanks to a glowplug, that is returning P0000 (I have a scanguageII always hooked up). I can hear some movement in my engine bay, so I figure my serp belt went on me.

When I get home, I pop the hood and see the belt had a split along one of the ridges lengthwise. I go buy a new belt, jack the car, remove undertray, remove/break undertray by the intercooler, and begin to replace the belt. My crank pulley has a lot of play in it, that is when I realize I am missing two of the three bolts.

It has been awhile since I tore down this motor, but can someone help me on the torque specs for this? I am at work, so I am trying to look around to get all the info so I can fix this tonight or tomorrow.

PS: What would cause the bolts to back out? Can I just use some mild loctite when I put the new bolts in?

18 ft-lbs for the crank pulley allen head bolts.

Drivebywire's timing belt procedure suggests using blue locktite on those bolts. It does not however, have a troque spec.

My Haynes manual says 10 Nm or 84 inch/lbs, plus 1/4 turn. That would indicate they are stretch bolts and you should replace.

I figured they would be stretch bolts. I saw someone else mention 18ft-lbs. So blue loctite? Thank you guys for the help. It is much appreciated.

Just read over the timing belt article. Called my local shop, and he had some bolts in stock. I have an auto trans, can I stay in park or go into a gear to install and torque these bolts down?

I always torque to 20ft lbs no loctite. Never had one fall off. Loctite makes them A. hard to take out later and B. stinky.

Ensure that your balancer is not damaged.

Silentmunky said:

......... I have an auto trans, can I stay in park or go into a gear to install and torque these bolts down?

Click to expand...

You should be able to get that torque without holding the engine. Just make sure the motion of the torque wrench is not striaght out from the crank center, but passing across the pully.

X2 for the no-locktite method. And I have always torqued them to 15 lb-ft.

One mistake that sometimes is made is the damper is put on while the timing belt hasn't centered itself on the pulley, meaning that the damper gets torqued down against the belt and not the pulley itself. As soon as the engine starts and the belt centers up, the damper is loose.

BTW- there are 4 bolts down there.

-Rich

Just a little note of caution for those ordering parts:

Many 2003 (wagons, especially) ALH engines use a different design harmonic balancer that needs shorter bolts.

The older cars use an M8x37 bolt, p/n N90339605
The newer ones use an M8x16 bolt, p/n N10303603

They are often re-used, although the manual does say to replace... (and I don't see where a small drop of blue LocTite will hurt...)

Yuri